DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Lavender Pocket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with ribbed raglan and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 223-36
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-328
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour 15, purple haze

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 8 items in all sizes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 178 stitches) minus the bands (e.g. 12 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 32) = 5.2. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 5th stitch. Do not increase on the bands. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 5 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, purl 2 together and knit 3. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then work the other 7 buttonholes with approx. 7½-8-8-8½-8½-9 cm between each one.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the 8 stitches in A.1, in each transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 102-102-102-118-118-118 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side:
Knit 3, purl 3, knit 2, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* over the next 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches, A.1 (= 8 stitches), knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, A.1 * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 16-16-16-24-24-24 stitches, knit 2, A.1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, A.1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches, knit 2, purl 3, knit 3.
Continue this rib for 1½ cm, then work a BUTTONHOLE – read description above, on the right band.
When the rib measures 4 cm, insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work as follows from the right side: Knit 3, purl 3 (= band), knit 10-10-10-14-14-14 AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 0-2-2-0-2-2 stitches ( = 10-12-12-14-16-16 stitches), A.1, knit 10, A.1, knit 18-18-18-26-26-26 AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 0-4-4-0-4-4 stitches (= 18-22-22-26-30-30 stitches), A.1, knit 10, A.1, knit 10-10-10-14-14-14 AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 0-2-2-0-2-2 stitches (= 10-12-12-14-16-16 stitches), purl 3, knit 3 (= band) = 102-110-110-118-126-126 stitches. Continue this pattern, AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side begin to increase to RAGLAN – read description above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase every 2nd row (= each row from the right side), a total of 18-20-22-25-26-28 times = 246-270-286-318-334-350 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

Continue working without further increases until the piece measures 18-20-22-23-25-27 cm from the marker. The next row is worked as follows from the right side:
Work the first 42-46-48-52-56-59 stitches as before (= left front piece), place the next 46-50-54-62-62-64 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 70-78-82-90-98-104 stitches (= back piece), place the next 46-50-54-62-62-64 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the remaining 42-46-48-52-56-59 stitches as before (= right front piece).

BODY:
= 166-182-194-210-230-246 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under each sleeve; allow the threads to follow your work onwards, they will be used when increasing in the sides. Continue with stocking stitch and band stitches as before. When the piece measures 4 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 4 stitches increased. Increase like this every 12 cm a total of 3 times = 178-194-206-222-242-258 stitches. When the piece measures 36-36-36-35-36-36 cm from the division, work 1 row from the right side where you increase 32-36-40-40-48-48 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 210-230-246-262-290-306 stitches. Work 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work as follows from the right side: Knit 3, purl 3, knit 2, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 10 stitches left, purl 2, knit 2, purl 3 and knit 3. Work this rib for 6 cm, then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP. The jacket measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 46-50-54-62-62-64 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 52-56-62-70-72-76 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 27-25-24-21-20-19 cm, increase 0-0-2-2-0-0 stitches evenly spaced = 52-56-64-72-72-76 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures 31-29-28-25-24-23 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
POCKET:
Cast on 26-26-28-28-28-28 stitches with needle size 5.5 mm and Air. Work 1 RIDGE over all stitches – read description above. Now work stocking stitch, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 12-12-13-13-14-14 cm. Work 2 ridges over all stitches, then cast off. Work 1 more pocket in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band. Sew the pockets to the middle of each front piece, approx. 1 cm above the rib - see photo.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.06.2023
NECK (the first row ends with knit 3):...
* knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches, knit 2, purl 3, knit 3.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Donbalak wrote:

J'ai tricoté un gilet top down il y a quelques années et j'aimerais savoir de quel modèle il s'agit (mon ordinateur ayant sauté je n'ai plus le modèle) Merci

06.06.2024 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Donbalak, retrouvez tous nos modèles de gilets et vestes tricotés de haut en bas ici, ajoutez des filtres si besoin pour affiner votre recherche. Bon tricot!

07.06.2024 - 08:10

country flag LaureM wrote:

Mea culpa vous pouvez supprimer ma question précédente je suis fatigué et j’avais mal lu ! Par contre il me semble mais a vérifier qu’il y a une erreur dans la version française. Pour le premier rang endroit du col vous finissez par 3 mailles envers et 2 mailles endroits. Ce ne serait pas 3 mailles endroit à la fin plutôt ? Car je suis en taille M donc je monte 102 mailles et en recalculant tout le premier rang je tombe sur 101 mailles. Encore merci

05.06.2023 - 23:34

DROPS Design answered:

C'est exact LaureM, merci pour votre retour, la correction a été faite. Bon tricot!

06.06.2023 - 09:29

country flag LaureM wrote:

Bonjour, tout d’abord un grand merci pour le modèle ! J’ai une question car je ne comprend pas dutout le diagramme du A.1. En lisant vos explications je compte 6 mailles au total et non 8 et je ne vois aucune maille envers travaillée sur l’endroit. Pouvez vous m’éclairer ? Merci

05.06.2023 - 22:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Laure et merci, le diagramme A.1 se tricote sur 8 mailles ainsi, vu sur l'endroit: 3 m envers, 2 m end, 3 m env; Sur l'envers, tricotez ainsi: 3 m end, 2 m env, 3 m end. Bon tricot!

06.06.2023 - 09:06

country flag Penny Cole wrote:

Where on earth is the sizing chart on this pattern please

30.08.2022 - 13:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Cole, you will read more about sizes, measurements and chart here. Happy knitting!

30.08.2022 - 15:07

country flag CARMEN CASTILLO wrote:

Canesú, delantero, ¿el raglan empieza con 12 puntos, aumento 22 veces un punto, me da 34 puntos? porque dice 48 puntos delantero (talla L)

02.01.2022 - 19:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carmen, el delantero tiene 40 puntos (incluyendo 3 derechos, 3 reveses). Los diagramas A.1 forman parte de las piezas delantera y espalda. Saludos!

05.01.2022 - 13:02

country flag Josie wrote:

Bonjour. J'ai déjà réalisé un grand nombre de vos modèles. J'attends ma commande de LIMA mais je voudrais juste vous dire que j'aimerais réaliser des modèles sans utiliser d'aiguille circulaire ou double pointes. Pouvez-vous le signaler aux créateurs et créatrices. Merci

03.10.2021 - 01:29

country flag Gitte Christensen wrote:

Hvor meget garn skal der bruge ved Str. XXL

29.09.2021 - 11:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gitte. 450 g DROPS Air till storlek XXL. Mvh DROPS Design

29.09.2021 - 12:02

country flag Eva Bergqvist wrote:

Tack för svar! Nu förstår jag vad jag missat, de 8 maskorna A1. Uppfattade att de var intagningar som jag skulle vänta med till oket. Därför hoppade jag över dem. Gott att få klarhet. Har börjat sticka koftan utifrån ett annat mönster som jag inte blir förvirrad av. Men bra att få veta hur jag tänkte fel. Med vänlig hälsning, Eva

25.04.2021 - 11:50

country flag Eva Bergqvist wrote:

Täck för svar. Jo, jag vet vad** betyder. Men har du räknat på mönstret för halskantens maskor. Jag har lagt upp 118 maskor. Men stickar jag halskantsmönstret, har också räknat ihop mönstret flera gånger. Varje gång blir resultatet 98, det fattas alltså mönster för 20 maskor. Hur stickar jag dessa? Med vänlig hälsning, Eva

20.04.2021 - 21:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Eva. Du stickar halskanten såhär i storlek XL: 3 rm, 3 am, 2 rm, 12m (resårstickning), A1 (= 8 m), 2rm, 2 am, 2 rm, 2 am, 2 rm, A1 (= 8 m), 24 m (resårstickning), 2 rm, A1 (= 8 m), 2rm, 2 am, 2 rm, 2 am, 2 rm, A1 (= 8 m), 12 m (resårstickning), 2 rm, 3 am, 3 rm = 118 m. Mvh DROPS Design

21.04.2021 - 08:34

country flag Eva Bergqvist wrote:

Försöker sticka ”Lavender Pocket” i xl. Fastnar redan i halskanten. 118 maskor. Men det fungerar inte med beskrivningen. Blir flera maskor över. Och när skall jag öka (A1) efter 8 maskor eller vad menas?

19.04.2021 - 23:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Eva. Har du sett att vissa delar står inom stjärnor och att de delarna då ska stickas över det antal maskor som uppges efter? Om du gör det så stämmer antalet maskor i halskanten. Ökningarna börjar sedan under OK där du först ökar på vissa slätstickade delar och sedan börjar ökningen till RAGLAN. Mvh DROPS Design

20.04.2021 - 07:20