DROPS / 223 / 22

Cotton Candy by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked in stocking stitch with rib and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Cotton Candy / DROPS 223-22 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked in stocking stitch with rib and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Cotton Candy / DROPS 223-22 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked in stocking stitch with rib and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Cotton Candy / DROPS 223-22 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked in stocking stitch with rib and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Cotton Candy / DROPS 223-22 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked in stocking stitch with rib and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no as-145
Yarn group C + A or D
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g colour 01, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-100-100-100-100-125 g colour 09, light lavender

KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 16 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.60 £ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 2.60 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up as far as the armholes. Stiches are cast off for the armholes and the front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth on the needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles as far as the armholes, then the sleeve cap is finished back and forth. The piece is sewn together and the double neck worked to finish. The whole garment is worked with 1 strand of each quality.

BODY:
Cast on 128-140-152-164-176-192 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk and 2 strands Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). Remove one of the strands of Kid-Silk. The rest of the jumper is worked with 1 strand of each quality. Casting on with 3 strands avoids the cast-on edge being tight.
Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm.
Change to circular needle size 6 mm and work stocking stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 23-25-26-27-28-29 cm, work the next round as follows: Cast off 6-6-6-6-8-8 stitches for the armhole, knit 58-64-70-76-80-88 (= front piece), cast off 6-6-6-6-8-8 stitches for the armhole and knit 58-64-70-76-80-88 (= back piece). The front and back pieces are finished separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 58-64-70-76-80-88 stitches. Work stocking stitch back and forth and cast off for the armholes at the beginning of all rows as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 0-1-1-2-2-3 times and 1 stitch 2-2-3-3-4-4 times on each side = 54-56-60-62-64-68 stitches left.
Continue working until the piece measures 47-50-52-54-56-58 cm. On the next row cast off the middle 18-20-22-22-24-24 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue with stocking stitch and cast off 5 stitches on the next row from the neck = 13-13-14-15-15-17 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 49-52-54-56-58-60 cm. Cast off – read CASTING-OFF TIP! Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 58-64-70-76-80-88 stitches. Work stocking stitch back and forth and cast off for the armholes at the beginning of all rows as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 0-1-1-2-2-3 times and 1 stitches 2-2-3-3-4-4 times on each side = 54-56-60-62-64-68 stitches left.
Continue working until the piece measures 45-48-50-52-54-56 cm. On the next row place the middle 18-20-22-22-24-24 stitches on 1 thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue with stocking stitch and cast off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time and 2 stitches 1 time = 13-13-14-15-15-17 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 49-52-54-56-58-60 cm. Cast off – remember CASTING-OFF TIP! Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 36-36-38-40-42-44 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk and 2 strands Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). Remove one of the strands of Kid-Silk. The rest of the sleeve is worked with 1 strand of each quality. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round = mid under the sleeve.
Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 10 -10-10-12-12-12 cm.
Change to double pointed needles size 6 mm and work 1 round where you knit 1 in both the front and back loop of all stitches (doubles the number of stitches) = 72-72-76-80-84-88 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round until the sleeve measures 46-46-46-44-43-42 cm.
Now start 3-3-3-3-4-4 stitches before the marker at the beginning of the round and cast off 6-6-6-6-8-8 stitches for the armhole, knit the remaining stitches.
Continue the sleeve cap back and forth on the needle at the same time as you cast off stitches at the beginning of all rows as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1-2-2-3-3-3 times and 1 stitch 1-1-1-1-1-2 times on each side. Then cast off 2 stitches on each side until the sleeve measures 51-52-52-52-52-52 cm. Cast off 3 stitches 1 time on each side and then cast off the remaining stitches - remember CASTING-OFF TIP!
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-off edges.
Sew in the sleeves, inside the 1 edge stitch on the front and back pieces.

DOUBLE NECK:
Start from the right side on one of the shoulders and knit up 60 to 74 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the thread in front) with short circular needle size 4.5 mm and 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strand) – the number of stitches should be divisible by 2.
Work rib in the round (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP!
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down; to avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards it is important that the seam is elastic.

Diagram

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 223-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Susanne 06.05.2021 - 12:34:

Kann der Pulli mit der vorgegebenen Wolle am Ende gespannt und gedämpft werden? Das Rumpfteil fällt bei mir etwas zu schmal und kurz aus. Viele Grüße

user icon DROPS Design 06.05.2021 kl. 13:48:

Libe Susanne, die fertige Strickwerke können gespannt werden aber wegen der Zusammensetzung der Wolle lieber nicht gedämpft. Sie können den Pullover auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen.

country flag Lotta Wallén Fegraeus 11.04.2021 - 07:06:

Hej Jag stickar denna fina tröja,hade ingen rundsticka så jag delade på arbetet (stickar storlek medium) behöver hjälp med avmaskning för ärmhålet hur gör jag snälla hjälp mig Mvh Lotta

user icon DROPS Design 13.04.2021 kl. 07:46:

Hej Lotta. När arbetet mäter 25 cm (storlek M) så avmaskar du 3 maskor på varje sida på framstycket och 3 maskor på varje sida på bakstycket. Du har då 64 maskor kvar på varje del och följer bara beskrivningen vidare under BAKSTYCKE och FRAMSTYCKE. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Janina 09.04.2021 - 16:15:

Jede Schulter einzeln weiterstricken, dabei glatt rechts stricken und am Anfang jeder Reihe, die am Halsrand beginnt, wie folgt abketten: 3 Maschen je 1 x beidseitig und 2 Maschen je 1 x beidseitig = 13-13-14-15-15-17 Maschen für die Schulter übrig. Was heisst 3 Maschen je 1x BEIDSEITIG abketten? Liebe Grüße Janina

user icon DROPS Design 12.04.2021 kl. 07:04:

Liebe Janina, es sollte nicht "beidseitig" sein, diese Maschen werden nur am Anfang jeder Reihe abgekettet, die am Halsrand beginnt - Anleitung wird korrigiert, danke. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Caroline 03.04.2021 - 10:22:

Om jag vill sticka långa armar istället för trekvart, kan jag följa beskrivningen ändå och bara sticka lite längre?

user icon DROPS Design 07.04.2021 kl. 10:12:

Hej Caroline, ja det kan du, enten strikker du ribben lidt længere eller så strikker du det glatstrikkede lidt længere :)

country flag Lise 29.03.2021 - 17:28:

Bonjour, si je veux travailler avec le Drops Sky, vaut-il mieux que je l'associe avec le Merinos (B + B = D). Mais alors comment faire pour les parties où il faut retirer un fil ? Ou vaut-il mieux faire avec 1 fil de Drop Sky + 2 fils de Baby Alpaca Silk (B + A + A = D), pour pouvoir en ajouter et retirer 1 quand il faut ? Merci beaucoup !!

user icon DROPS Design 06.04.2021 kl. 09:13:

Bonjour Lise, vous trouverez ici une association Sky+Brushed Alpaca Silk par exemple, l'idéal est de faire un test au préalable pour vérifier si la texture vous convient. Retrouvez plus d'infos sur les alternatives ici. Votre magasin saura vous aider, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

country flag Eva Šestáková 23.03.2021 - 15:20:

Je celková délka 49 cm počítaná i s pružným 10 centimetrovým krajem nebo bez ? Děkuji

user icon DROPS Design 24.03.2021 kl. 06:49:

Dobrý den, Evo, ano, celková délka je počítána včetně lemu. Hodně zdaru! Hana

country flag Lise 22.03.2021 - 16:04:

Bonjour, Est-il possible de travailler avec des aiguilles circulaires à la place des aiguilles double pointe pour les manches ? Et si oui, de combien de cm doit être la longueur du fil entre les aiguilles ? Merci !

user icon DROPS Design 22.03.2021 kl. 16:15:

Bonjour Lise, tout à fait, l'aiguille circulaire doit toujours être au moins un peu plus courte que la circonférence de l'ouvrage, donc au début, vous pourrez utiliser une autre technique dite magic loop pour tricoter sur aiguille circulaire, au lieu des doubles pointes - et terminer ensuite avec une aiguille circulaire de 40 cm. Bon tricot!

country flag Caroline 18.03.2021 - 18:40:

Det står att man kan sticka med Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk och Drops Sky, enligt era garnkombinationen. Det blir motsvarande Grupp D. Min fråga är hur mycket det går åt av Drops Sky?

user icon DROPS Design 19.03.2021 kl. 14:13:

Hej Caroline, ca 6 nøgler sky + 5 nøgler brushed alpaca silk

country flag Caroline 18.03.2021 - 17:43:

Hej! Om jag vill sticka med Drops Air istället, hur mycket garn går åt för storlek M? Blir det 5 nystan?

user icon DROPS Design 19.03.2021 kl. 14:08:

Hej Caroline, så skal du bruge ca 9 nøgler DROPS Air men husk at for at få målene i opskriften skal du have 14 masker på 10 cm ifølge strikkefatheden i opskriften så det bliver ret glest i DROPS Air som ikke tilhører samme gruppe. God fornøjelse!

country flag Ninni 07.03.2021 - 17:44:

Hei, pystyykö tässä käyttämään lankoina merino extra fine ja kid silk yhdistelmää? Ja jos pystyy niin voiko tehdä ihan samoilla silmukkamäärillä?

user icon DROPS Design 09.03.2021 kl. 16:56:

Merino Extra Fine -lanka on Brushed Alpaca Silk -lankaa ohuempi lanka, joten neuletiheys ei välttämättä täsmää. Mikäli kokeilet kyseistä lankayhdistelmää, sinun tulee vaihtaa ohuempiin puikkoihin. Tarkista kuitenkin neuletiheys!

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