Let it Knit by DROPS Design

Knitted mittens with cables and hearts in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Theme: Jul

DROPS 214-62
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-888
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S/M– M/L
Mitten’s total length: approx. 24 - 25 cm
Mitten’s length without edge: approx. 18 - 19 cm
Length from inside-thumb to fingertip: approx. 11½ - 12 cm
Length of thumb on inside: approx. 6 - 7 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50 g colour 100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
25-25 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca
from 3.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.40 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 4.40 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 4.40 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.65£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP:
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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MITTENS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The mittens are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

LEFT MITTEN:
Cast on 45-50 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk. Work diagram A.1 in the round. When the diagram has been completed the piece measures approx. 8 cm; the purled section at the beginning will roll inwards so the edge will measure approx. 6 cm when worn.
Work 2 rounds of stocking stitch and decrease 5-6 stitches evenly on the first round = 40-44 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Insert a marker thread in the 2nd-3rd stitch on the round (allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when working the diagram) and insert a marker in the first stitch on the round (= thumb-marker).

READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue with stocking stitch and increase for the thumb-gusset on each side of the stitch with the thumb-marker as shown in diagram A.2. Continue to increase a total of 6-7 times = 13-15 stitches for the thumb – AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 4-4 cm, work according to diagram A.3 on top of the hand. Start diagram A.3 in the stitch with the marker thread and work stocking stitch over the other stitches (stitches are increased in the diagram because the cable tightens the piece; these stitches are decreased again at the end of the diagram).

When the piece measures 6-7 cm from the thumb-marker place the 13-15 thumb-stitches on a thread and cast on 1 new stitch on the needle.
Continue with stocking stitch and diagram A.3 as before. When diagram A.3 is finished continue with stocking stitch and there are 40-44 stitches on the round.
When the mitten measures 14-15 cm (measured from the edge; there is approx. 4 cm left to finished length – try the mitten on and work to desired length). Insert 1 marker in each side of piece so that pattern A.3 is placed in the middle between the markers and with 20-22 stitches between the markers.
On the next round decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 4-3 times and then every round a total of 5-7 times = 4-4 stitches left on the needles.
Cut and pull both strands through the remaining stitches. Tighten and fasten well on the inside of the mitten.
The mitten measures approx. 18-19 cm (and approx. 24-25 cm with the edge).

THUMB:
Place the 13-15 thumb-stitches from the thread back on double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 2 stitches at the back of the thumb = 15-17 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round until the thumb measures 5½-6½ cm on the inside (try the mitten on and work to desired length – there is ½ cm left to finished length). Knit 2 rounds where all stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 on both rounds = 4-5 stitches left. Cut and pull both strands through the remaining stitches. Tighten and fasten well.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Cast on and work as for the left mitten, but the marker thread for diagram A.3 and the thumb-marker are inserted as follows:
Insert a marker thread in the 22nd-25th stitch on the round (allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when working the diagram) and insert a marker in the last stitch on the round (= thumb-marker).

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 23.12.2020
Corrected placement of the marker and the marker thread.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round work the yarn over twisted – no hole
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle at back of piece, knit 2 and purl 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1 and knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 2 and knit 2 stitches from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle at back of piece, knit 2 and purl 2 stitches from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2 and knit 2 stitches from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle at back of piece, knit 2 and knit 2 stitches from cable needle
symbols = purl 2 together
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 214-62) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Est-ce que je peux utiliser la méthode magic loop pour faire ces mouffles?

14.01.2022 - 22:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, tout à fait, vous pouvez utiliser la technique du magic loop dès lors qu'il n'y a pas assez de mailles pour tricoter sur une aiguille circulaire et/ou que vous ne voulez pas tricoter en rond sur les aiguilles doubles pointes. Bon tricot!

19.01.2022 kl. 10:23

country flag Céline wrote:

Il a erreur dans le diagramme A3 , les explications de pictogramme à faire .selon les notes de la légende nous devons utiliser 4 mailles et sur la grille nous utilisons seulement 3 mailles . À corriger .

06.04.2021 - 01:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline, pouvez-vous nous indiquer de quel symbole vous parlez? Sauf erreur de ma part, je compte bien le bon nombre de mailles pour chacun d'eux. Merci!

07.04.2021 kl. 08:13

country flag Rukhsana wrote:

Got it 🤗tusan takk nd v sory for causing too much trouble💐

07.01.2021 - 13:04

country flag Rukhsana wrote:

Can you kindly write the exect number of stitches for both mittens to mark thread for A3. On correction site there is just wrote to replace of markerbt not number,i actually want to know the exects stitches number.plz

06.01.2021 - 22:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rukhsana, the online pattern has already been edited with correct placement of markers under both left mittens (= Insert a marker thread in the 2nd-3rd stitch on the round (allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when working the diagram) and insert a marker in the first stitch on the round (= thumb-marker). and right mitten (= Insert a marker thread in the 22nd-25th stitch on the round (allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when working the diagram) and insert a marker in the last stitch on the round (= thumb-marker).. Happy knitting!

07.01.2021 kl. 10:11

country flag Rukhsana wrote:

Then what is the correction?i print the pattren 2 time ‘d both are same .A.3 requir 18 stitches .bt with 2nd stitch i can not make dis☹️Am i doing somethng wrong. (Thumb stitches are not involved in A.3)how can i make then

06.01.2021 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rukhsana, there was a correction on 23/12/2020 - and marker thread should be inserted as explained in the pattern for left/right mittens to work A.3. Happy knitting!

06.01.2021 kl. 13:32

country flag Rukhsana wrote:

Hei, im little confuse for A.3 diagram ,if this is 22nd stitch is start stitch for A.3 on left mitten then which number of stitch is start for A.3 on tight mitten ?plz help me🙏

05.01.2021 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rukhsana, on the left mitten, you start A.3 with the stitch with the marker thread = the 2nd stitch on the round (before increasing for thumb) - on right mitten, the marking thread will be added in the 22nd stitch on the round. Happy knitting!

06.01.2021 kl. 07:29

country flag Rukhsana wrote:

Where can i find the correct (correction)pattren update

04.01.2021 - 15:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rukhsana, if you printed the pattern before the correction, click on the red link at the end of writte pattern, if you printed the pattern after the correction, the online pattern is then already updated. Happy knitting

05.01.2021 kl. 10:50

country flag Rukhsana wrote:

Hei , can you define the number of stitch for starting the design on left mitten coz im stuckk on design plz.

04.01.2021 - 15:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rukhsana, you should work the increase for thumb as shown in A.2 = the middle stitch in A.2 is the stitch with the marker (= in the first stitch on the round). Then work A.3 starting with the stitch with the marker thread. Happy knitting!

05.01.2021 kl. 10:46

country flag Elena wrote:

Me encanta. La talla ha quedado perfecta con agujas del 3. El patrón ha sido fácil de seguir y me han quedado preciosos. Haré más para regalar. Gracias por este precioso patrón!

21.12.2020 - 21:12

country flag Nina wrote:

Jeg får heller ikke mønsteret til å stemme. Det ser ut på bildene som det er plassert midt på oversiden, mens det iflg diagrammet blir skjevt.

18.12.2020 - 22:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Nina. Oppskriften er oversendt til design avd, slik at de kan ta en dobbeltsjekk evnt komme med en rettelse. mvh DROPS design

21.12.2020 kl. 11:56

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