DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% alpaka
od 95.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% mohér, 25% hedvábí
od 131.00 Kč /25g
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 226.00Kč.

Cenu za klubka počítáme podle spotřeby při výrobě modelu v nejmenší velikosti a nejlevnější variantě příze. Rádi byste ještě lepší cenu? Třeba ji najdete mezi DROPS Deals!

DROPS 214-62
DROPS Design: model č. z-888
Skupina přízí A + A nebo C
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VELIKOST:
S/M– M/L
Celková délka rukavice: asi 24 - 25 cm
Délka rukavice bez lemu: asi 18 - 19 cm
Délka od vnitřní strany palce ke špičce prstů: asi 11,5 - 12 cm
Délka palce – měřeno podél vnitřní strany: asi 6 - 7 cm

MATERIÁL:
DROPS ALPACA firmy Garnstudio (spadá do skupiny přízí A)
50-50 g, barva č. 100, smetanová
a
DROPS KID-SILK firmy Garnstudio (spadá do skupiny přízí A)
25-25 g, barva č. 01, smetanová

ZKUŠEBNÍ VZOREK:
22 ok na šířku a 30 řad na výšku lícovým žerzejem dvojitou přízí = 10 x 10 cm.

JEHLICE:
DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE č.3.
DROPS POMOCNÁ JEHLICE copánková – na křížení copánků.
Uvedená síla jehlic je pouze orientační. Máte-li ve svém zkušebním vzorku více ok na 10 cm, použijte jehlice silnější. Pokud máte naopak méně ok na 10 cm, použijte jehlice slabší.

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Náhradní příze – Podívejte se, jak změnit přízi
Skupina přízí A až F – Neměňte návod, změňte přízi
Spotřeba příze při použití náhradní příze – Využijte náš převodník

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% alpaka
od 95.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% mohér, 25% hedvábí
od 131.00 Kč /25g
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 226.00Kč.

Cenu za klubka počítáme podle spotřeby při výrobě modelu v nejmenší velikosti a nejlevnější variantě příze. Rádi byste ještě lepší cenu? Třeba ji najdete mezi DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Platí do 12.04.2024

Návod

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VYSVĚTLIVKY:

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VZOR:
Viz schémata A.1, A.2 a A.3. Zobrazeny jsou všechny řady vzoru, nahlížené z lícové strany.

TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ:
Začínáme 3 oka před značkou: 2 oka spleteme hladce, 2 oka upleteme hladce (značka leží mezi nimi), 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme (= ujmeme 2 oka).

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POPIS PRÁCE:

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RUKAVICE – JAK BUDEME POSTUPOVAT:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na ponožkových jehlicích.

LEVÁ RUKAVICE:
Na ponožkové jehlice č.3 nahodíme 1 vláknem příze Alpaca a 1 vláknem příze Kid-Silk (= dvojitou přízí) 45-50 ok a pleteme v kruhových řadách podle schématu A.1. Po dokončení celé sekvence vzoru dle schématu (na výšku) měří díl asi 8 cm; počáteční část pletená obrace se stočí dovnitř, takže lem ve výsledku měří asi 6 cm.
Upleteme 2 kruhové řady hladce a SOUČASNĚ ujmeme v 1. z nich rovnoměrně 5-6 ok = 40-44 ok. NYNÍ MĚŘÍME DÍL OD TOHOTO MÍSTA!
Nyní si označíme 4.-6. oko v kruhové řadě (tuto značku snímáme vždy do aktuálně pletené kruhové řady; využijeme ji při pletení vzoru), druhou značkou označíme poslední oko v kruhové řadě (= značka pro palec).

NEŽ BUDETE PLÉST DÁL, PŘEČTĚTE SI POZORNĚ CELÝ NÁSLEDUJÍCÍ POPIS!
Pleteme lícovým žerzejem a SOUČASNĚ začneme tvarovat klínek pro palec – na obou stranách značky pro palec přidáme 1 oko podle schématu A.2. Takto přidáváme celkem 6-7x = 13-15 ok palce – SOUČASNĚ ve výši 4-4 cm pleteme na horní straně rukavice vzor podle schématu A.3. Vzor začínáme u označeného oka, ostatní oka pleteme lícovým žerzejem (ve schématu je zaznačeno přidání ok – to proto, že copánkový vzor pleteninu stahuje; tato oka na konci vzoru opět ujmeme).

Ve výši 6-7 cm od značky pro palec odložíme 13-15 ok palce na pomocnou jehlici a nahodíme 1 oko nové. Pleteme v kruhových řadách lícovým žerzejem a vzorem A.3 jako dříve. Po dokončení celé sekvence vzoru A.3 pleteme dál lícovým žerzejem a v kruhové řadě máme 40-44 ok.
Když rukavice měří 14-15 cm (měřeno od lemu, do výsledných rozměrů nám zbývá doplést asi 4 cm výšky – rukavici si můžete vyzkoušet a míry upravit), označíme si boky rukavice tak, že vzor A.3 leží uprostřed mezi značkami a dlaň tvoří 20-22 ok.
V následující kruhové řadě ujmeme na obou stranách obou značek 1 oko
– viz TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ (= ujmeme 4 oka). Toto ujímání opakujeme v každé 2. kruhové řadě, celkem 4-3x, pak ujímáme v každé kruhové řadě, celkem 5-7x = na jehlicích zbývají 4-4 oka.
Obě příze odstřihneme, protáhneme zbylými oky, stáhneme a zapošijeme.
Rukavice měří asi 18-19 cm (asi 24-25 cm včetně lemu).

PALEC:
Odložených 13-15 ok palce vrátíme z pomocné jehlice zpět na ponožkové jehlice č.3 a navíc k nim nabereme 2 oka z okraje za palcem = 15-17 ok. Pleteme v kruhových řadách lícovým žerzejem. Když je palec vysoký 5,5-6,5 cm (měřeno podél vnitřní strany palce; rukavici si můžete vyzkoušet a naměřit vhodnou výšku, do výsledných rozměrů nám zbývá doplést asi 0,5 cm výšky), spleteme v každé z následujících 2 kruhových řad vždy každá 2 oka hladce = zbývá 4-5 ok. Obě příze odstřihneme, protáhneme zbylými oky, stáhneme a zapošijeme.

PRAVÁ RUKAVICE:
Nahodíme a pleteme stejně jako levou rukavici, jen zrcadlově převrácenou – značku pro vyznačení vzoru A.3 a značku pro palec umístíme takto:
jednu značku vložíme do 1. oka v kruhové řadě (tuto značku snímáme vždy do aktuálně pletené kruhové řady; využijeme ji při pletení vzoru), druhou značkou si označíme 22.-24. oko v kruhové řadě (= značka pro palec).

Schéma

symbols = hladce
symbols = obrace
symbols = 1x nahodíme mezi 2 oky, v následující kruhové řadě pleteme nahození za zadní nit - nevznikne dírka
symbols = 1 oko odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 2 oka hladce, 1 oko z pom.jehlice obrace
symbols = 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici PŘED práci, 1 oko obrace, 2 oka z pom.jehlice hladce
symbols = 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici PŘED práci, 2 oka obrace, 2 oka z pom.jehlice hladce
symbols = 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 2 oka hlace, 2 oka z pom.jehlice obrace
symbols = 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici PŘED práci, 2 oka hladce, 2 oka z pom.jehlice hladce
symbols = 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 2 oka hladce, 2 oka z pom.jehlice hladce
symbols = 2 oka spleteme obrace
diagram

Každý náš návod je doprovázen speciálními video-ukázkami, které vás navedou.

Chcete se na něco zeptat? Projděte si seznam nejčastějších otázek (FAQ).

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Mohly by se vám líbit...

Let it Knit

knittinghege, Norway

Let it Knit

Stefanie Beiert, Germany

Let it Knit

Marit, Norway

Let it Knit

Marina, Germany

Přidejte komentář k návodu DROPS 214-62

Rádi bychom věděli, co si o tomto modelu myslíte!

Pokud se chcete na něco zeptat, dbejte prosím na to, abyste ve formuláři níže vybrali správnou kategorii - díky tomu se dříve dozvíte, co potřebujete vědět. Povinná pole jsou označena *.

Komentáře / Otázky (12)

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Est-ce que je peux utiliser la méthode magic loop pour faire ces mouffles?

14.01.2022 - 22:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, tout à fait, vous pouvez utiliser la technique du magic loop dès lors qu'il n'y a pas assez de mailles pour tricoter sur une aiguille circulaire et/ou que vous ne voulez pas tricoter en rond sur les aiguilles doubles pointes. Bon tricot!

19.01.2022 - 10:23

country flag Céline wrote:

Il a erreur dans le diagramme A3 , les explications de pictogramme à faire .selon les notes de la légende nous devons utiliser 4 mailles et sur la grille nous utilisons seulement 3 mailles . À corriger .

06.04.2021 - 01:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline, pouvez-vous nous indiquer de quel symbole vous parlez? Sauf erreur de ma part, je compte bien le bon nombre de mailles pour chacun d'eux. Merci!

07.04.2021 - 08:13

country flag Rukhsana wrote:

Got it 🤗tusan takk nd v sory for causing too much trouble💐

07.01.2021 - 13:04

country flag Rukhsana wrote:

Can you kindly write the exect number of stitches for both mittens to mark thread for A3. On correction site there is just wrote to replace of markerbt not number,i actually want to know the exects stitches number.plz

06.01.2021 - 22:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rukhsana, the online pattern has already been edited with correct placement of markers under both left mittens (= Insert a marker thread in the 2nd-3rd stitch on the round (allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when working the diagram) and insert a marker in the first stitch on the round (= thumb-marker). and right mitten (= Insert a marker thread in the 22nd-25th stitch on the round (allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when working the diagram) and insert a marker in the last stitch on the round (= thumb-marker).. Happy knitting!

07.01.2021 - 10:11

country flag Rukhsana wrote:

Then what is the correction?i print the pattren 2 time ‘d both are same .A.3 requir 18 stitches .bt with 2nd stitch i can not make dis☹️Am i doing somethng wrong. (Thumb stitches are not involved in A.3)how can i make then

06.01.2021 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rukhsana, there was a correction on 23/12/2020 - and marker thread should be inserted as explained in the pattern for left/right mittens to work A.3. Happy knitting!

06.01.2021 - 13:32

country flag Rukhsana wrote:

Hei, im little confuse for A.3 diagram ,if this is 22nd stitch is start stitch for A.3 on left mitten then which number of stitch is start for A.3 on tight mitten ?plz help me🙏

05.01.2021 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rukhsana, on the left mitten, you start A.3 with the stitch with the marker thread = the 2nd stitch on the round (before increasing for thumb) - on right mitten, the marking thread will be added in the 22nd stitch on the round. Happy knitting!

06.01.2021 - 07:29

country flag Rukhsana wrote:

Where can i find the correct (correction)pattren update

04.01.2021 - 15:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rukhsana, if you printed the pattern before the correction, click on the red link at the end of writte pattern, if you printed the pattern after the correction, the online pattern is then already updated. Happy knitting

05.01.2021 - 10:50

country flag Rukhsana wrote:

Hei , can you define the number of stitch for starting the design on left mitten coz im stuckk on design plz.

04.01.2021 - 15:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rukhsana, you should work the increase for thumb as shown in A.2 = the middle stitch in A.2 is the stitch with the marker (= in the first stitch on the round). Then work A.3 starting with the stitch with the marker thread. Happy knitting!

05.01.2021 - 10:46

country flag Elena wrote:

Me encanta. La talla ha quedado perfecta con agujas del 3. El patrón ha sido fácil de seguir y me han quedado preciosos. Haré más para regalar. Gracias por este precioso patrón!

21.12.2020 - 21:12

country flag Nina wrote:

Jeg får heller ikke mønsteret til å stemme. Det ser ut på bildene som det er plassert midt på oversiden, mens det iflg diagrammet blir skjevt.

18.12.2020 - 22:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Nina. Oppskriften er oversendt til design avd, slik at de kan ta en dobbeltsjekk evnt komme med en rettelse. mvh DROPS design

21.12.2020 - 11:56