The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= knit | |
= purl |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Winter Baby |
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Knitted set of trousers and hat for baby in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size: Premature to 4 years
DROPS Baby 33-12 |
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---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN (applies to pants): See diagram A.1. DECREASE TIP (applies to inside of legs): Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. INCREASE TIP (applies to pants): Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes. ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- TROUSERS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Worked in the round on circular needles/double pointed needles, top down. Cast on (84) 96-104-116-124 (136-144) stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round = knit 1/ purl 1. When rib measures 2½ cm, work a round with eyelet holes for tie as follows: * Knit 1, purl 1, make 1 yarn over, purl 2 together *, work from *-* the entire round (= (21) 24-26-29-31 (34-36) holes on round). Then continue rib = knit 1/purl 1 until piece measures 5 cm from cast-on edge. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work an elevation at the back of pants as explained below. ELEVATION AT THE BACK: To get a better fit work the pants higher at the back than at the front. This is done by working short rows back and forth as follows: Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Work from right side and knit 10 past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 20 stitches back. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 30, turn, tighten yarn and purl 40. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 50, turn, tighten yarn and purl 60. Continue this way until (60) 60-80-80-100 (100-100) stitches have been purled. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit until mid back. TROUSERS: Now work A.1 in the round over all stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When pants measures (15) 17-18-21-22 (23-24) cm from cast-on edge mid front, work next round as follows: Cast off 4 stitches (= mid back), knit (34) 40-44-50-54 (60-64) stitches, cast off 8 stitches mid front, knit (34) 40-44-50-54 (60-64) stitches and cast off the remaining 4 stitches mid back. Cut the yarn. Slip stitches in one side of piece on 1 stitch holder and work leg as explained below. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! LEG: = (34) 40-44-50-54 (60-64) stitches. Distribute the stitches on double pointed needles size 4 mm and continue A.1 in the round. Knit the stitches that do not fit A.1. When piece measures 2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches on inside of leg - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every (1½) 1½-1½-1½-2 (2½-3½) cm (4) 5-7-8-8 (8-8) times in total = (26) 30-30-34-38 (44-48) stitches. Continue to work until leg measures (7) 9-12-15-19 (23-29) cm. Knit 1 round while increasing (6) 6-8-6-8 (8-10) stitches evenly (increase after every 5th stitch) – read INCREASE TIP = (32) 36-38-40-46 (52-58) stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 6 cm (or desired measurements). Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other leg the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew tog the opening between the legs. TWINED STRING FOR TIE: Cut 2 lengths of approx. 3 metres each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread tie up and down through eyelet row in pants, begin mid front and tie a bow. ---------------------------------------------------------- BEGIN PIECE FOR HAT HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- HAT: Worked in the round on double pointed needles from mid back. Cast on (60) 66-72-78-84 (90-96) stitches on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Knit 1 round. Then work 4 rounds rib = knit 1/purl 1. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Knit 1 round. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Then work as follows: ROUND 1: * Knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit (8) 9-10-11-12 (13-14) stitches, slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit 1 and pass the 2 slipped stitches over stitch worked, knit (8) 9-10-11-12 (13-14) stitches, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 3 times in total. ROUND 2: Knit all stitches. Repeat round 1 and 2 until piece measures 7 cm in all sizes. Then work the same way but without increases. I.e. continue decreases the same way until no stitches remain between decreases. On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Hat measures approx. (14) 14-15-16-17 (17-18) cm measured form one of the bottom tips. TIE RIBBON: Work back and forth with 2 double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Pick up 4 stitches in the tip on one side of hat (a tip to cover the ear). Knit 4 stitches, * do not turn piece, but push stitches over to the other side of needle, place the thread behind the 4 stitches, tighten yarn and knit the 4 stitches from the right side again *, work from *-* until tie measures approx. (14)16-18-20-22 (24-26) cm, cast off and fasten the yarn. Work the other tie the same way in the tip on the opposite side of hat. POMPOM: Make 2 pompoms with an approx. diameter of 3 cm. Fasten them at the top of hat. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogues and 11518 patterns translated into English (UK/cm). 11518
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (53)
Heidi wrote:
Hei! Jeg holder på med luen! Lurer på om en skal ta kast helt på slutten av omg 1, en maske fra merke bak? Da blir det 3 x *_*pluss ett kast på slutten!?!? Sliter litt med å få dette til å gå opp;) Tusen takk!
13.09.2024 - 10:53DROPS Design answered:
Hei Heidi. Stemmer slik det står skrevet. Merket sitter i masken midt bak. Ved at det står at man skal gjøre et kast sist i repetisjon nr 3 gjør at du får en økning både før og etter masken midt bak. F.eks i den minste str. (60 masker) består 1 repetisjon av 20 masker, du øker med 2 kast og feller 2 masker hver gang repetisjonen strikkes. Om du ikke gjør et kast til slutt, vil repetisjon nr. 3 bare bestå av 19 masker. mvh DROPS Design
16.09.2024 - 13:38Jesse wrote:
Hi Drops, maybe it's asked in the comments already, but for me it's unclear on which needle the gauge is knitted for the hat, a 3 or a 4? Thank you
01.09.2024 - 21:56DROPS Design answered:
Hi Jesse, The gauge is measured using needle size 4 mm. Happy knitting!
02.09.2024 - 06:27Bente Solfjell wrote:
Vedr. luen jeg har størrelsen med 84 masker og jeg får ikke mønsteret til å gå opp når det skal være 3 ganger på en omgang, har rekket opp igjen 4 ganger nå og gitt opp. til slutt gikk jeg ned til 11 masker mellom hver felling men selv da ble det ikke nok igjen på slutten. så jeg lurer på hvor jeg teller feil? det skal jo være 28 masker pr. rapport i omgang 1, jeg får 1+12+3+3+12=31 eller 1+11+3+3+11=29
06.08.2024 - 04:06Ingun Av Kák Steintun wrote:
Der er fejl i mønsteret til luen (for få kast i forhold til avtagninger) og avtagningene kommer heller ikke til at likne luen på billedet
22.07.2024 - 23:15Encarna wrote:
Hola necesito la corrección del patrón de los pantalones y no sé dónde encontrarla
30.05.2024 - 18:43DROPS Design answered:
Hola Encarna, la versión online ya es la versión corregida. Los fallos indicados en las correcciones se refieren a versiones antiguas del patrón y están ahí para que, si alguien imprimió el patrón antes de la fecha de la corrección, sepan que han habido correcciones en el patrón.
03.06.2024 - 00:37Kari wrote:
Hei :) Jeg strikker denne luen nå, og det står at man skal repetere 1. og 2. omgang til arbeidet måler 7 cm. Måler man da fra startmarkøren, eller der man har økt, som fort er 1 cm lenger? Veldig fin lue :)
11.01.2024 - 14:09DROPS Design answered:
Hei Kari, Du måler fra oppleggskanten. God fornøyelse!
12.01.2024 - 06:28Lena Folkman wrote:
Hej! Tacksam för gratis mönster på babymössa.Men förstår inte hur jag ska minska efter 7 cm. Hur ofta och hur många varv? Det står fortsätt med minskningarna tills det inte är några maskor kvar mellan minskningarna. Om jag fortsätter så minskar jag bara med 6 maskor per varv, efter var 10:e maska?Bra info fram till 7 cm, men sen tyvärr förvirrande.Verkar annars bli en bra mössa. Vänliga hälsningar, Lena Folkman
10.01.2024 - 19:24Marjut wrote:
Pyöröpuikot 60cm ei kyllä millään yletä ainakaan noihin pieniin kokoihin. Eli pitäisi olla 40cm mittaiset puikot?
01.11.2023 - 19:42Alena wrote:
Dobrý deň, Chcela by som sa informovať ohľadom čiapočky. Na 1. kruhovú radu je potrebných viac očiek, ako bolo nahodených na začiatku. Upliesť teda 1.kruhovú radu a zbytok 2. radu, po označenie začiatku kruhu, dokončiť hladko (2. kruhová rada), alebo upliesť hladko celý 2.kruh a vždy sa bude posúvať začiatok kruhovej rady? Alebo robím niekde chybu? Ďakujem
11.10.2023 - 13:48DROPS Design answered:
Dobrý den, Aleno, počet ok v 1. kruhové řadě odpovídá počtu nahozených ok, a to u všech velikostí. K žádným posunům začátku kruhové řady nedochází a nejsou potřeba. Nemohlo dojít k záměně údajů? Zkontrolujte, prosím, zda pracujete vždy s údaji pro tu správnou velikost - tj. řiďte se vždy číslovkou na stejné pozici, jako má označení velikosti; např. pro vel. 6/9 měsíců, která je ve výčtu velikostí 4. v pořadí, se budete vždy řídit údajem, který je také 4. v pořadí. Pokud je zádrhel v něčem jiném, napište a rozlouskneme to! Hodně zdaru, Hana
11.10.2023 - 18:10Gunilla Sörnmo wrote:
Jag undrar över mönstret till mössan. På vartannat varv i början ökas det 2 maskor mindre än det minskas, dvs någonstans måste antalet maskor jag stickar mellan ökning/minskning modifieras. Detta hittar jag inte i mönstret. Kan ni förtydliga?
20.06.2023 - 14:54DROPS Design answered:
Hej Gunilla, På varv 1 beskriver vi hur du ökar 2 maskor och minskar 2 maskor - det gör du 3 ggr = samma antal maskor :)
22.06.2023 - 14:31