Bulgaria

DROPS Ribbon
45% Cotton, 45% Viscose, 10% Linen
Discontinued
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DROPS 69-21

Airy DROPS jumper in "Ribbon" and crochet hat in "Muskat"

DROPS 69-21 / This pattern still doesn't have a name. Suggest one!
DROPS design: Model no XX-008
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Sizes: S/M - M/L - XL
Materials: DROPS Ribbon from Garnstudio
550-600-650 g colour no 04, beige pepper

DROPS Needles size 4.5 mm

Tension: 13 sts x 22 rows on needle size 4.5 mm and structured pattern - see description below = 10 x 10 cm. Remember needle size is only a guide!

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers Accessories Basic Jumpers Hats Bucket Hats Summer Hats boat neck bottom up garter stitch oversized round neck sewn in sleeves

DROPS Ribbon
45% Cotton, 45% Viscose, 10% Linen
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Pattern instructions

Structured pattern:
1st row (= RS): P.
2nd row (= WS): *P 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-*.
3rd row: *K 1, slip YO from previous row *, repeat from *-*.
4th row: K
5th row: * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-*.
6th row: * P 1, slip YO from previous row *, repeat from *-*.

Repeat 1st – 6th continuously upwards.

Ridge (Back and forth on needle):
1 ridge of garter st = 2 rows. 1st row K, 2nd row K.

Ridge (on circular needle): 1 ridge garter st = 2 rounds. 1st round P, 2nd round K.

Knitting tip: Ribbon yarn has a tendency to twist whilst worked with, so it should be untwisted as you go for the best result.

Knitting information: All measurements mentioned in this pattern should be taken when the piece is held up. This is because the pattern stretches when vertical.

Front piece: Read the knitting tip and the knitting information!

Cast on 76-82-90 sts on needle size 4.5 mm with beige pepper and work 3 ridges. Put 5 sts in each side on a thread (= slit sts, these 5 sts are worked in garter st at the end and are fastened to body) = 66-72-80 sts remaining on needle. Continue with structured pattern – see description above. Remember knitting tension! When piece measures approx. 20 cm inc 6 sts (incl 1 edge st) in each side above slit = 78-84-92 sts. Continue working structured pattern across all sts. When piece measures 52-54-55 cm cast off for armholes in each side every 2nd row: 3 sts 1-1-1 time, 2 sts 2-4-5 times, 1 st 4-3-4 times = 56-56-58 sts on needle. When piece measures 65-66-67 cm cast off the middle 12 sts for neck. Continue to cast off on each side of neck every 2nd row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 5-5-6 times. When piece measures 71-73-75 cm, work 1 ridge across all sts. Then cast off. Piece measures approx. 72-74-76 cm.

Back piece: Cast on and work as for front piece.

Cast off for armholes as for front piece and continue working until piece measures 70-72-74 cm. Now cast off middle 22-22-24 sts for neck. Continue by casting off 2 sts on next row towards neck. Cast off remaining 15 sts on each shoulder (after working 1 ridge across all the sts as for front piece) when piece measures 72-74-76 cm.

Sleeves: Cast on 30-32-34 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 4.5 mm with beige pepper. Work 3 ridges, continue with structured pattern. When piece measures 9 cm inc in each side: 1 st 11-10-10 times every 3rd cm = 52-52-54 sts.

When sleeve measures 44-42-40 cm cast off for sleeve cap in each side every 2nd row: 2 sts 3-2-1 times, 1 st 5-11-14 times, continue to cast off 2 sts until piece measures 54-55-55 cm. Cast off remaining sts.

Assembly: Slit: Place the 5 sts on the one side of the front piece on needle size 4.5 mm. Work garter st upwards for approx. 20 cm (or equivalent to length of slit), cast off. Sew ridges to body – sew in outermost strand of outermost st. Repeat on other side of front piece and on each side of back piece.

Neck: Sew right shoulder seams. Pick up approx. 75 - 80 sts round neck on needle size 4.5 mm with beige pepper. Work 2 ridges. Cast off. Sew left shoulder seams and along neck edge. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams in one – down to the slit – inside 1 edge st.

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Crochet DROPS hat in Muskat

Sizes: S/M - M/L
Head measurements: 55 - 57 cm.
Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
200-200 g colour no 61, pale beige

DROPS Crochet hook size 3 mm

Crochet tension: 21 dc x 24 rows = 10 x 10 cm on hook size 3 mm. Remember hook size is only a guide!

Lobster st: Crochet on RS dc the opposite way, in other words from left to right without turning piece. Crochet 1 st in every dc from previous round.

Hat: Crochet 4 dc. Form them to a ring with 1 slip st. Crochet 1 ch. Crochet 6 dc in the ring, 1 ch.
1st round: Crochet 2 dc in every st = 12 dc, insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round.
2nd round: * 1 dc in the first st, 2 dc in the next st *, repeat from *-* to end of round = 18 dc.
3rd round: * 1 dc in the first 2 sts, 2 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* to end of round = 24 dc.
4th round: * 1 dc in the first 3 sts, 2 dc in the next st *, repeat from *-* to end of round = 30 dc.
5th round: * 1 dc in the first 4 sts, 2 dc in the next st *, repeat from *-* to end of round = 36 dc.
Continue to inc 6 dc per round – in other words, you crochet 1 dc more between each inc until piece measures 9.5-10.5 cm from the middle (the circumference increases with approx. 2 cm every inc round – crochet until circumference = approx. 55-57 cm). Continue with dc without inc until piece measures approx.19-20 cm from middle. On the next round, work the following increase: * 2 dc, crochet 2 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* to end of round. Then work 22 rounds without inc = hat brim. Finally, work 1 round with lobster st – see description above – in the outermost row of dc. Cut thread and fasten.

Assembly: Fold the "hat brim" (in other words the last 22 rounds) double to RS. Sew back st in double edge, inside 2 dc rounds towards edge. Work a small double edge (= rolling edge) at the top of the hat as follows: Where increase at the top of the hat finishes, make a fold on RS, sew back st through the two layers inside the 2 rounds of dc on each side, i.e. there are 4 rounds of dc in the double edge.

Diagram

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

Jan wrote:

Hi, I am going to make your cute sweater 69-21. I am reading the pattern instructions and cannot understand the 5 stitches that you put onto a stitch holder and what you do with them later during assembly. It says to knit in garter for 7+ inches and sew them to the body. I seem to be missing something. Do you have anymore detailed instructions for the assembly of the sweater. Thank you for your help.

28.02.2020 - 22:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jan, these stitches are first slip aside then worked back in garter stitch then sewn to the back/front piece for the edge. They are worked separately since tension is different in garter stitch and in pattern and that way your edge over these 5 stitches will be nicer. Happy knitting!

02.03.2020 - 09:04

Marisa Flores wrote:

Hola!! El sombrero tiene en la parte superior un borde sobresaliente que no lo veo explicado, o no lo entiendo. También dice que aumente "hasta que la labor mida 9.5-10.5 cm desde el anillo" y luego "continuar hasta que la circunferencia sea de aprox 55-57 cm". No entiendo por qué hace llegar hasta 9.5 - 10.5 para después decir que siga igual hasta 55. Hay que hacer algo al llegar a 9.5-10.5? porque me queda una circunferencia de 55 y no tiene la misma forma que la foto

04.01.2019 - 22:04

Hola Marisa. En el patrón dan dos medidas ( el largo de la labor desde el inicio y la circunferencia del gorro) que se mantienen siempre y cuando estés trabajando con la misma tensión del tejido que el patrón. Puede ser que alcances el largo de la labor pero no tengas la circunferencia del gorro necesaria. En este caso tienes que continuar con los aumentos. Al llegar a la medida de la circunferencia del gorro continúa sin aumentos.

17.10.2019 - 18:51

Gudrun wrote:

Hej. Jag kan inte hitta beskrivningen till den snygga hatten.

06.12.2018 - 20:09

Hei Gudrun. Her har tallene byttet plasse, hatten finner du på 69-10 her. Vi skal få rettet dette. God fornøyelse.

07.12.2018 - 10:11

DROPS Design wrote:

For Mrs Bowen: For sleeve cap, bind off at the beg of every row on each side: 2 sts 3-2 times, 1 st 5-11 times then cast off 2 sts at the beg of each row until piece measures 54-55 cm (depending on your tension you will have to work more or less rows, the number of sts cast off will depend on your tension in height, just make sure you cast off the same number of sts on each side and cast off the remaining sts. Happy knitting!

17.04.2018 - 09:03

Jackie Bowen wrote:

It says Drops 69-21 at the top; refer to my previous email sent; i’m hving trouble with the section after sleeve increases; the middle section on increasing leading to neckline and neckline—front says bo 12 while back says 22. Need # if sts we shld hv on each side after all decreases r done

16.04.2018 - 18:59

Dear Mrs Bowen, for front piece, cast off for neck the middle 12 sts and continue each side separately casting off at the beg of each row from neck 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 5 times = 15 sts remain for shoulder. On back piece, cast off the middle 22 sts for neck and then continue each side separately casting off 2 sts at the beg of next row from neck = 15 sts remain. (to be continued under "comments").

17.04.2018 - 09:02

I don’t understand these instructions: does not tell how many sts u end up with and do the decreases go every other row then u multiply the number of sts times the number given fir hiw many times? It’s confusing to me to follow as written

16.04.2018 - 00:47

Dear Mrs Bowen, can you please let us know more? which size are you working, for which piece do you need help? Remember you can get any individual assistance from the store where you bought your yarn, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

16.04.2018 - 10:04

Becky wrote:

I am sorry but I do not see the yarn requirement for the sweater. Could you please tell me how much is required for each size?

28.09.2017 - 01:52

Dear Becky, you will find total amount of yarn required in each size under tab "Materials", ie 550-600-650 g DROPS Ribbon. Since this yarn has been discontinued, find here all relevant informations about alternatives. Happy knitting!

28.09.2017 - 10:28

Heike Schneider wrote:

Liebes Strickteam, erstmal vielen Dank für die wunderbaren Anleitungen und die tollen Garne. Beim Abketten für den Armausschnitt schreibt ihr: 3 M 1-1-1 mal..... das habe ich noch verstanden.... also jede 2. Reihe 3mal 3 M abketten Weiter gehts dann mit 2 M total 2-4-5 Mal..... und hier verstehe ich nicht, was ich machen soll. Was bedeutet total und was die Wiederholungen? Vielen Dank für die Hilfe und herzliche Grüße Heike

04.07.2016 - 15:06

Liebe Heike, die Angaben sind anders gemeint: Die Zahlen 1-1-1 Mal beziehen sich auf die verschiedenen Grössen. Sie ketten also in allen 3 Grössen zunächst beidseitig 1 x 3 M ab. Dann in Grösse S/M 2 x 2 M – in Grösse M/L 4 x 2 M etc.

06.07.2016 - 08:14

Hanna wrote:

Hur får jag tag i mönstret till hatten? (det står refererat till 10-69, men jag hittar inte den) Mvh Hanna

28.05.2016 - 10:12

Hej. Du hittar mönstret här. Lycka till!

30.05.2016 - 09:38

Laraine wrote:

For the sweater it asks you to cast on with " smaller needles." Only size 7 are specified (assuming you get gauge). Does that mean go down one size needle for cast on? Do you use the smaller needles for the 6 rows of garter as well?

01.07.2014 - 04:34

Dear Laraine, whole sweater is worked with needle size 4.5 mm (US 7), or size needed to obtaint correct gauge. Pattern will be updated, thank you. Happy knitting!

01.07.2014 - 09:09