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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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= K from RS, P from WS | |
= K2 tog, 1 yo | |
= 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, 1 yo |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS 87-15 |
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DROPS Bolero in Alpaca, Vivaldi and Glitter.
DROPS 87-15 |
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Gauge: 15 sts x 21 rows with 1 strand of each yarn (3 strands) on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm. Pattern: See charts. The pattern is seen from the right side. The chart on the left (M.2) is Pattern 2. The chart on the right shows Patterns 1A and 1B (M.1A and M.1B) «18 p/v = ca 9 cm» – 18 rows = approx. 9 cm. Back: Cast on 53-59-65-75-85 sts on smaller needles with 1 strand of each yarn (= 3 strands). Knit 2 rows garter st, change to larger needles and stockinette st. When the piece measures 5 cm P 1 row (right side), then 2 rows stockinette st, K 1 row (wrong side) and 2 rows stockinette st. Read the entire next section before knitting: Establish pattern on the next row as follows from right side: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), 3-0-3-2-1 sts stockinette st, Pattern 1A over the following 42-54-54-66-78 sts, Pattern 1B (= 3 sts), 3-0-3-2-1 sts stockinette st and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st). Continue in pattern as established. When Pattern 1 is complete repeat Pattern 2 a total of 2 times (Pattern 2 starts inside of 1 edge st + the increased sts at each side (see instructions below) + 3-0-3-2-1 sts stockinette st at each side so that the lace pattern in Pattern 2 comes between the 2 lace patterns in Pattern 1). After Pattern 2 continue in stockinette st to finished measurements. Side inc: When the piece measures 9 cm inc 1 st at each side a total of 6-6-6-5-4 times: Sizes S + M + L: every other row Size XL: every 3 rows, and Size XXL: every 4 rows = 65-71-77-85-93 sts – knit the increased sts in stockinette st. Armhole: When the piece measures 17-18-19-20-21 cm bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 3-3-2-3-5 times = 53-55-59-61-61 sts. When the piece measures 34-36-38-40-42 cm bind off the center 11-11-11-13-13 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge = 20-21-23-23-23 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 36-38-40-42-44 cm. Right front: Cast on 46-49-52-57-62 sts on smaller needles with 1 strand in each yarn (= 3 strands). Knit 2 rows garter st, change to larger needles and stockinette st but keep the outermost st at the center front edge in garter st throughout. When the piece measures 5 cm, P 1 right side row (keep edge st at the center front edge in garter st as before), 2 rows stockinette st and K 1 wrong side row. Knit the next row as follows from right side: bind off the outermost 19 sts at the center front edge for tie, then K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), K 1, P 1, K 1, P 1 (= 5 edge sts) and K 22-25-28-33-38 = 27-30-33-38-43 sts. P 1 row back, keeping the outermost 5 edge sts at the center front in rib and 1 garter st at the edge as established. Read the entire next section before knitting: Pattern: Knit the next row as follows (right side row): 5 edge sts as before, 3 sts stockinette st, Pattern 1A over the following 12-18-18-24-30 sts, Pattern 1B (= 3 sts), 3-0-3-2-1 sts stockinette st and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st). Continue in pattern as established. When Pattern 1 is complete repeat Pattern 2 a total of 2 times (start Pattern 2 inside of 5 edge sts and 3 sts in stockinette st from center front edge so that the lace pattern in Pattern 2 comes between the 2 lace patterns in Pattern 1). After Pattern 2 continue in stockinette st to finished measurements. Side inc: When the piece measures 9 cm inc at the side as on back = 33-36-39-43-47 sts – knit the increased sts in stockinette st. Armhole: When the piece measures 17-18-19-20-21 cm bind off for armhole at the side as on back = 27-28-30-31-31 sts. When the piece measures 36-38-40-42-44 cm bind off the 20-21-23-23-23 sts on shoulder. Continue neckband over the remaining 7-7-7-8-8 sts as before. When neckband measures approx. 4-4.5 cm from shoulder (the edge should stretch slightly when sewn to neckband) put sts on a st holder. Left front: Cast on and knit the same as the right reversing shaping. Sleeve: Cast on 38-40-42-44-46 sts on smaller needles with 1 strand in each yarn (= 3 strands). Knit 2 rows garter st, change to larger needles and stockinette st, decreasing 4 sts evenly distributed on the 1st row = 34-36-38-40-42 sts. Read the entire next section before knitting: When the piece measures 10 cm, P 1 right side row, 2 rows stockinette st, K 1 wrong side row, and 2 rows stockinette st. Pattern: Establish pattern on the next row as follows (right side row): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), 1-2-0-1-2 sts stockinette st, Pattern 1A over the following 30-30-36-36-36 sts, 1-2-0-1-2 sts stockinette st and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st). Continue the pattern as established. When Pattern 1 has been knit 1 time (18 rows), repeat Pattern 2 a total of 3 times (54 rows). Place Pattern 2 above Pattern 1. After Pattern 2 continue in stockinette st to finished measurements. When the piece measures 14 cm inc 1 st at each side every 3.5-3.5-3-2.5-2.5 cm a total of 10-10-11-12-13 times = 54-56-60-64-68 sts. When sleeve measures 49-48-48-47-46 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-2-2-3-3 times and 1 st 2-3-3-2-4 times, continue to bind off 2 sts at each side until piece measures 56-56-56-56-57 cm, then bind off 3 sts 1 time at each side. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 57-57-57-57-58 cm. Assembly: sew shoulder seams. Neckband: Join neckband at center back with Kitchener st. Sew the edge to back neckband. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (32)
BERNADETTE DELRIEU wrote:
Je voulais savoir si les augmentations du dos C est à 9 cm à partir du MOTIF M1 Ou du début du tricot
13.02.2024 - 11:10DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Delrieu, les 9 cm de hauteur totale se mesurent à partir du rang de montage. Bon tricot!
14.02.2024 - 07:14BERNADETTE DELRIEU wrote:
Bonjour Lorsque vous parlez des augmentations sur les cotes à 9cmnde hauteur total C est après M1 ou du début du tricot
13.02.2024 - 11:06DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Delrieu, mesurez ces 9 cm à partir du rang de montage = c'est bien la hauteur totale, depuis le début. Bon tricot!
20.02.2024 - 09:00Frau Haecker wrote:
Ich verstehe etwas zum Modell 87-15 nicht. Bei den beiden Vorderteilen sollen die 23 Schultermaschen nach 42 cm bei meiner Größe von außen abgekettet werden. Das ist alles noch klar für mich. Dann die inneren 8 Maschen noch 4 cm in die Höhe stricken, auf Hilfsnadel legen. Wo soll ich dann die Halskante annähen, wo doch das Rückenteil oben an der Schulter fast gerade abgekettet wurde. Ich hoffe, sie verstehen, was ich meine. Liebe Grüße von Frau Haecker.
19.03.2023 - 20:47DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Haecker, die Halsblende stricken Sie separat weiter und nähen Sie zusammen und am Hals wie in diesem Video gezeigt - diese Maschen stricken Sie wie zuvor, im Video wird es kraus rechts gestrickt, Video zeigt aber nur die Technik. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
20.03.2023 - 09:16Christa Kujawa-Hüsch wrote:
Guten Tag,ich brauche einmal Hilfe. In den mittleren Teil,ab "Gurt",komme ich nicht klar . Wie muss ich das verstehen bis "Muster" Muss ich erst 19Maschen abketten und dann kurz danach wieder 22Maschen auf der linke Nadel stricken ? Bitte um Hilfe. Liebe Grüße Christa
28.08.2021 - 17:45DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Kujawa-Hüsch, die 19 M werden zuerst am Anfang der Hinreihe abgekettet, die Reihe bis zur Ende stricken, wenden und die Rückreihe links mit 5 BlendeMaschen + 1 Randmasche kraus rechts stricken. Dann zuerst Muster M.1 dann M.2 stricken. Gleichzeitig wird es an der Seite zugenommen und für das Armloch abgekettet. Kann das Ihnen helfen?
30.08.2021 - 07:32Manon wrote:
Bonjour, je cherche un équivalent pour ce magnifique patron. Que me suggérez vous? J'ai essayé le convertisseur mais comme deux laines sont utilisées, je ne sais pas comment chercher. Merci
21.11.2020 - 20:45DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Manon! Si le modèle requiert plus d'un fil, il vous faudra recommencer pour chacun des fils que vous souhaitez remplacer. Pex. Pour la taille S: vous pouvez remplacer 150g DROPS Alpaca (1 fil) par: 148g Nord (1 fil), 123g Fabel (1 fil), 144g Delight (1 fil), 63g Kid-Silk (1 fil), 120g Flora (1 fil), 157g Safran (1 fil), 144g Baby Merino (1 fil), 150g BabyAlpaca Silk (1 fil). Vous pouvez remplacer 100g DROPS Vivaldi (1 fil) par: 100g Brushed Alpaca Silk (1 fil), 200g Alpaca Bouclé (1 fil), 187g Air (1 fil), 140g Kid-Silk (2 fils). Bon tricot!
22.11.2020 - 20:03Patrizia wrote:
Vorrei sapere se il motivo M2 sul dietro va lavorato su tutto il ferro. Se sì, quante maglie vanno lasciate tra un motivo e l'altro? Nello schema M2 sono indicati 8 quadretti mentre nello schema M1a/b ce ne sono solo 3. Grazie.
31.10.2019 - 17:37DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Patrizia. Deve lavorare lo schema M2 sulle maglie del dietro, ad eccezione della m vivagno, delle maglie aumentate e del numero di maglie da lavorare a maglia rasata indicate per la sua taglia. Il motivo traforato di M2 si deve posizionare a metà di due motivi traforati di M1. Il motivo M2 si lavora su 12 m, arrivata all’ultima maglia, riprende con la prima. Buon lavoro!
01.11.2019 - 09:10Tiziana wrote:
Buongiorno,mi piacerebbe poter eseguire il modello con maniche a 3/4, come posso ricavare i punti necessari? Grazie
22.02.2019 - 15:08DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Tiziana, per un'assistenza personalizzata e adatta alle sue modifiche le suggeriamo di rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!
19.08.2019 - 18:20VU Anna wrote:
Bonjour Madame, Je crois qu'il y a une erreur de frappe pour le nombre de mailles à monter pour les manches pour la taille S : Il serait plus juste que ce soit 38 mailles au lieu de 28 comme indiqué. Merci pour votre confirmation.
24.11.2018 - 01:54DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Vu, c'est exact, il faut bien monter 38 m en taille S, la correction a été faite, merci. Bon tricot!
26.11.2018 - 07:47MARGARET R LERNER wrote:
1. Instructions for pattern says that chart on the left M.2 is Pattern 2 and chart on the right is Patterns 1A and 1B, this is the reverse of the actual presentation of the charts. 2. also, i had selected language English (US/in) but all of the instructions per se are in cm.
02.07.2017 - 17:50DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Lerner, M.1 A/B and M.2 are the correct diagrams. Measurements in inches will be added, thanks for your feedback. Happy knitting!
03.07.2017 - 10:18Boulogne wrote:
Bonjour, par quelle qualité peut-on remplacer la laine vivaldi? merci
27.03.2015 - 11:21DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Boulogne, Vivaldi appartenait au groupe C de nos qualités, DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk est une bonne alternative, cliquez ici pour calculer la quantité nécessaire (poids/métrage) lorsque vous choisissez une alternative. Votre magasin DROPS pourra vous aider et vous conseiller si nécessaire. Bon tricot!
30.03.2015 - 16:17