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Product image DROPS Nepal yarn
DROPS Nepal
 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.60 € /50g
DROPS Needles & Hooks
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Accessories
  4. Hats
  5. Bucket Hats
  6. DROPS
  7. 214
  8. 24

Quercus Cloche

Crocheted hat in DROPS Nepal. The piece is worked top down with double crochets and relief-stitches.

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DROPS 214-24

#quercusclochehat

DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-331
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S/M – M/L
Fits head size approx.: 54/56 – 56/58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150 g colour 0618, camel

CROCHET TENSION:
16 double crochets in width and 18 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.
16 half-treble crochets in width and 13.5 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Product image DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.60 € /50g
DROPS Needles & Hooks
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each round of double crochets replace the first double crochet with 1 chain stitch. Each round ends with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
At the beginning of each round of half-treble crochets and double-treble crochets, replace the first half-treble crochet with 2 chain stitches. Each round ends with 1 slip stitch in the second chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets in the same stitch.

LOBSTER STITCH:
Work double crochets, but backwards; i.e. the row/round is worked
from left to right.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The hat is worked in the round, top down.

HAT:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and Nepal and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.

ROUND 1: Read CROCHET INFO! Work 6 double crochets around the chain-stitch ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 double crochets in each double crochet = 12 double crochets.
ROUND 3: * 1 double crochet in the first double crochet, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 18 double crochets.
ROUND 4: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 2 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 24 double crochets.
ROUND 5: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 3 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 30 double crochets.
ROUND 6: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 4 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 36 double crochets.
ROUND 7: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 5 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 42 double crochets.
ROUND 8: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 6 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 48 double crochets.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 9: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 7 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 54 double crochets.
ROUND 10: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 8 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 60 double crochets.
ROUND 11: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 9 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 66 double crochets.
ROUND 12: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 10 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 72 double crochets.
ROUND 13: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 11 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 78 double crochets.
ROUND 14: Work 1 round with 1 double crochet in each double crochet and increase 6-10 double crochets evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 84-88 double crochets.

ALL SIZES:
Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet every round until the piece measures 10-11 cm from the top. There is approx. 7 cm left before beginning the brim.

ROUND 15: Work 1 half-treble crochet in each double crochet.

ROUND 16: Work 2 chain stitches, 1 half-treble crochet in the first half-treble crochet, skip the next 2 half-treble crochets from the previous round, work 1 double-treble crochet around the next half-treble crochet (work from the right side). Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochet) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets, * work 1 double-treble crochet around the same half-treble crochet as the previous double-treble crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), skip the next 3 half-treble crochets from the previous round and work 1 double-treble crochet around the next half-treble crochet from the previous round, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and then pull through all loops on the hook. Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochets) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets *. Work from *-* until there are 2 half-treble crochets left. Work 1 double-treble crochet around the same half-treble crochet as the previous double-treble crochet. Skip the next half-treble crochet, work 1 half-treble crochet in the last half-treble crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. The double-treble crochets from the beginning of the round does not connect with the double-treble crochets from the end of the round.

ROUND 17: Work 1 half-treble crochet in each stitch.

ROUND 18: Work 2 chain stitches, 1 half-treble crochet in each of the first 3 half-treble crochets, work 1 double-treble crochet around the first double-treble crochet from the previous round of double-treble crochets, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 double-treble crochet around the next double-treble crochets from the previous round of double-treble crochets, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and then pull through all loops on the hook. Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochets) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets. * Work 1 double-treble crochet around the same double-treble crochets as the previous time, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 double-treble crochet around the next double-treble crochets from the previous round, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and then pull through all loops on the hook. Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochets) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets *. Work from *-* until there are 4 half-treble crochets left. Work 1 double-treble crochet around the same double-treble crochets as the previous time, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 double treble crochet around the last double treble crochet from the previous round, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and then pull through all loops on the hook, skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the last 3 half-treble crochets. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

ROUND 19: Work 1 half-treble crochet in each stitch.

ROUND 20: Work 2 chain stitches, 1 half-treble crochet in the first half-treble crochet, work 1 double-treble crochet around the first double-treble crochets from the previous round of double-treble crochets, skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets.
* Work 1 double-treble crochet around the same double-treble crochets as the previous time, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 double-treble crochet around the next double-treble crochets from the previous round, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and then pull through all loops on the hook. Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochets) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets*. Work from *-* until there are 2 half-treble crochets left. Work 1 double-treble crochet around the same double-treble crochets as the previous time, skip 1 half-treble crochet, work 1 half-treble crochet in the last half-treble crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

ROUND 21: Work 1 half-treble crochet in each stitch.

ROUND 22: Work 2 chain stitches, 1 half-treble crochet in each of the first 3 half-treble crochets, work 1 double-treble crochet around the first double-treble crochet from the previous round, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 double-treble crochet around the next double-treble crochets from the previous round of double-treble crochets, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and pull through all loops on the hook. * Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochets) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets. Work 1 double-treble crochet around the same double-treble crochets as the previous time, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 double-treble crochet around the next double-treble crochets, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and then pull through all loops on the hook *. Work from *-* until there are 8 half-treble crochets remain on round. Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochets) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets. Work 1 double-treble crochet around the same double-treble crochets as the previous time, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 double-treble crochet around the last double-treble crochet from previous round, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and then pull through all loops on the hook. Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochets) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

ROUND 23: Work 1 half-treble crochet in each stitch.
The piece measures approx. 17-18 cm from the top. Now work the brim.

BRIM:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch and increase 9-11 double crochets evenly spaced = 93-99 double crochets.
ROUNDS 2 and 3: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 4: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet and increase 8-9 double crochets evenly spaced = 101-108 double crochets.
ROUND 5: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 6: Work as round 4 = 109-117 double crochets.
ROUNDS 7-9: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 10: Use 2 strands of Nepal and work 1 round of LOBSTER STITCH – read description above.
The brim measures approx. 6 cm. Cut and fasten the strands.
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (1)

country flag Sabine Krohn wrote:

Hallo, ist es auch möglich, den mittleren Teil zu überspringen, und stattdessen einfach weiter feste Maschen zu häkeln? Muss ich da auf irgendwas achten? Ein Winterhut wäre so eine schöne Idee, nachdem ich schon einige Sommerhüte aus Baumwolle/Leinen/Bast gehäkelt habe. Danke und liebe Grüße Sabine

06.10.2021 - 16:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Krohn, wahrscheinlich können Sie weiter mit festen Maschen häkeln, bis die Arbeit 17-18 cm mist (= 15. bis 23. Runde im Muster), dann weiter mit der Krempe anfangen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

07.10.2021 - 07:51

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Quercus Cloche

#quercusclochehat

Quercus Cloche / DROPS 214-24 - Crocheted hat in DROPS Nepal. The piece is worked top down with double crochets and relief-stitches.
 Quercus Cloche / DROPS 214-24 - Crocheted hat in DROPS Nepal. The piece is worked top down with double crochets and relief-stitches.

Crocheted hat in DROPS Nepal. The piece is worked top down with double crochets and relief-stitches.

DROPS 214-24
DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-331
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S/M – M/L
Fits head size approx.: 54/56 – 56/58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150 g colour 0618, camel

CROCHET TENSION:
16 double crochets in width and 18 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.
16 half-treble crochets in width and 13.5 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each round of double crochets replace the first double crochet with 1 chain stitch. Each round ends with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
At the beginning of each round of half-treble crochets and double-treble crochets, replace the first half-treble crochet with 2 chain stitches. Each round ends with 1 slip stitch in the second chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets in the same stitch.

LOBSTER STITCH:
Work double crochets, but backwards; i.e. the row/round is worked
from left to right.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The hat is worked in the round, top down.

HAT:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and Nepal and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.

ROUND 1: Read CROCHET INFO! Work 6 double crochets around the chain-stitch ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 double crochets in each double crochet = 12 double crochets.
ROUND 3: * 1 double crochet in the first double crochet, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 18 double crochets.
ROUND 4: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 2 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 24 double crochets.
ROUND 5: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 3 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 30 double crochets.
ROUND 6: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 4 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 36 double crochets.
ROUND 7: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 5 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 42 double crochets.
ROUND 8: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 6 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 48 double crochets.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 9: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 7 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 54 double crochets.
ROUND 10: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 8 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 60 double crochets.
ROUND 11: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 9 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 66 double crochets.
ROUND 12: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 10 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 72 double crochets.
ROUND 13: * 1 double crochet in each of the first 11 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to end of round = 78 double crochets.
ROUND 14: Work 1 round with 1 double crochet in each double crochet and increase 6-10 double crochets evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 84-88 double crochets.

ALL SIZES:
Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet every round until the piece measures 10-11 cm from the top. There is approx. 7 cm left before beginning the brim.

ROUND 15: Work 1 half-treble crochet in each double crochet.

ROUND 16: Work 2 chain stitches, 1 half-treble crochet in the first half-treble crochet, skip the next 2 half-treble crochets from the previous round, work 1 double-treble crochet around the next half-treble crochet (work from the right side). Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochet) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets, * work 1 double-treble crochet around the same half-treble crochet as the previous double-treble crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), skip the next 3 half-treble crochets from the previous round and work 1 double-treble crochet around the next half-treble crochet from the previous round, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and then pull through all loops on the hook. Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochets) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets *. Work from *-* until there are 2 half-treble crochets left. Work 1 double-treble crochet around the same half-treble crochet as the previous double-treble crochet. Skip the next half-treble crochet, work 1 half-treble crochet in the last half-treble crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. The double-treble crochets from the beginning of the round does not connect with the double-treble crochets from the end of the round.

ROUND 17: Work 1 half-treble crochet in each stitch.

ROUND 18: Work 2 chain stitches, 1 half-treble crochet in each of the first 3 half-treble crochets, work 1 double-treble crochet around the first double-treble crochet from the previous round of double-treble crochets, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 double-treble crochet around the next double-treble crochets from the previous round of double-treble crochets, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and then pull through all loops on the hook. Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochets) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets. * Work 1 double-treble crochet around the same double-treble crochets as the previous time, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 double-treble crochet around the next double-treble crochets from the previous round, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and then pull through all loops on the hook. Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochets) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets *. Work from *-* until there are 4 half-treble crochets left. Work 1 double-treble crochet around the same double-treble crochets as the previous time, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 double treble crochet around the last double treble crochet from the previous round, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and then pull through all loops on the hook, skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the last 3 half-treble crochets. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

ROUND 19: Work 1 half-treble crochet in each stitch.

ROUND 20: Work 2 chain stitches, 1 half-treble crochet in the first half-treble crochet, work 1 double-treble crochet around the first double-treble crochets from the previous round of double-treble crochets, skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets.
* Work 1 double-treble crochet around the same double-treble crochets as the previous time, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 double-treble crochet around the next double-treble crochets from the previous round, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and then pull through all loops on the hook. Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochets) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets*. Work from *-* until there are 2 half-treble crochets left. Work 1 double-treble crochet around the same double-treble crochets as the previous time, skip 1 half-treble crochet, work 1 half-treble crochet in the last half-treble crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

ROUND 21: Work 1 half-treble crochet in each stitch.

ROUND 22: Work 2 chain stitches, 1 half-treble crochet in each of the first 3 half-treble crochets, work 1 double-treble crochet around the first double-treble crochet from the previous round, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 double-treble crochet around the next double-treble crochets from the previous round of double-treble crochets, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and pull through all loops on the hook. * Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochets) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets. Work 1 double-treble crochet around the same double-treble crochets as the previous time, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 double-treble crochet around the next double-treble crochets, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and then pull through all loops on the hook *. Work from *-* until there are 8 half-treble crochets remain on round. Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochets) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets. Work 1 double-treble crochet around the same double-treble crochets as the previous time, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 double-treble crochet around the last double-treble crochet from previous round, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 3 loops on the hook) and then pull through all loops on the hook. Continue with half-treble crochets (at the back of the double-treble crochets) as follows: skip the next half-treble crochet and work 1 half-treble crochet in each of the next 3 half-treble crochets. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

ROUND 23: Work 1 half-treble crochet in each stitch.
The piece measures approx. 17-18 cm from the top. Now work the brim.

BRIM:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch and increase 9-11 double crochets evenly spaced = 93-99 double crochets.
ROUNDS 2 and 3: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 4: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet and increase 8-9 double crochets evenly spaced = 101-108 double crochets.
ROUND 5: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 6: Work as round 4 = 109-117 double crochets.
ROUNDS 7-9: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 10: Use 2 strands of Nepal and work 1 round of LOBSTER STITCH – read description above.
The brim measures approx. 6 cm. Cut and fasten the strands.

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