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DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.40 € /50g

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DROPS Buttons
Round (blue) No. 612

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Forever Lace

Vest with crochet square and lace pattern, worked top down in DROPS Cotton Light. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 178-29

#foreverlacevest

DROPS Design: Pattern no cl-070
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-750 g colour 34, light jeans blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 22 treble crochets and 11 rows on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Round (blue) NO 612: 3 items for all sizes.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Women Vests Open Front Vests a-shape lace round neck square top down

DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.40 € /50g

Order

DROPS Buttons
Round (blue) No. 612

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

Increase/Decrease Calculator

CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each row/round with double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 1 chain stitch. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
At the beginning of each row/round with half treble crochets, replace the first half treble crochet with 2 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch.
At the beginning of every row/round with treble crochets, replace the first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch.
At the beginning of every row/round with triple treble crochets, replace the first triple treble crochet with 5 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 5th chain stitch.

INCREASE TIP:
You increase in each side by working an extra chain-space (= 6 chain stitches and 1 double crochet) around the first and last chain-space on the row (= chain-space with 3 chain stitches).

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.
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VEST:
The crochet square on the back piece is worked in the round. Then you work back and forth in sections and then these sections are assembled together.

BACK PIECE:
CROCHET SQUARE: Start with hook size 3 mm and Cotton Light. Work 4 chain stitches and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work in the round from the row in the diagrams with the arrow as follows: Work A.1a (shows how the rounds start and finish) – READ CROCHET INFO, work A.1b a total of 4 times on the round. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When the diagrams have been completed in height the crochet square measures approx. 21 x 21 cm. Work slip stitches as far as the 4th double crochet before the next corner (= 3 chain-spaces before the corner – see star in A.1b). Start on the 3rd round in the diagrams and work as follows: Work A.2a in the double crochet (shows how the round starts and finishes), work A.2b over the next 3 chain-spaces,* work A.2c (= the corner), work A.2b over the next 9 chain-spaces (= 3 repeats) *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, work A.2c in the corner and finish with A.2b over the remaining 6 chain-spaces (= 2 repeats) on the round. When the diagrams have been completed in height, the crochet square measures approx. 34 x 34 cm. The crochet square is now finished for sizes S and M. For sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL continue as follows: Start on the 2nd round in the diagrams and work A.3a (shows how the round starts and finishes), work A.3b around the whole round but in each corner, work A.3c. When the diagrams have been completed in height, the crochet square measures approx. 39 x 39 cm and the crochet square is now finished for sizes L and XL. I n sizes XXL and XXXL work the last 2 rounds of A.3 1 more time in height (= a total of 2 times in height). The crochet square now measures approx. 43 x 43 cm and is finished for sizes XXL and XXXL. Cut the strand.

RIGHT SHOULDER: Start on row 2 in the diagrams and work the shoulder back and forth as follows: Work A.4a around the chain-space in corner A – see the sketch, work A.4b over the next 20-20-25-25-25-25 treble crochets (= 4-4-5-5-5-5 repeats), work A.4a around the space between the next 2 treble crochets. Turn and continue in the same way until the diagrams have been completed in height. Work 2nd–5th rows 1-1-1-2-2-2 more times in height (= a total of 2-2-2-3-3-3 times in height). The shoulder measures approx. 8-8-8-12-12-12 cm from the crochet square. Cut and fasten the strand.

LEFT SHOULDER: Skip 35-35-35-35-45-45 treble crochets for the neck after the right shoulder = 20-20-25-25-25-25 treble crochets for the left shoulder. Around the space between the next 2 treble crochets, fasten the strand with 1 double crochet (= A.4a). Start on the 2nd row in the diagrams and work A.4a (as mentioned above), work A.4b over the next 20-20-25-25-25-25 treble crochets (= 4-4-5-5-5-5 repeats), work A.4a around the chain-space in corner B – see sketch. Turn and continue as for the right shoulder.

LEFT SIDE (between corners B and C – see sketch): Skip 15 treble crochets in all sizes from the chain-space in corner B. Start on the 2nd row in the diagrams and work A.4c over the next 10 treble crochets, work A.4b over the next 50-50-60-60-70-70 treble crochets, finish with A.4a around the chain-space in corner C on the crochet square (= 12-12-14-14-16-16 chain-spaces). Turn and work back and forth until the 4th row has been completed. You have now decreased 1 chain-space in A.4c = 11-11-13-13-15-15 chain-spaces. Work the 3rd and 4th rows in A.4a and A.4b 0-1-1-2-3-4 more times in height (= 3-5-5-7-9-11 rows with chain-spaces). There are now 11-11-13-13-15-15 chain spaces for the left side. Work the 3rd row from the wrong side as follows: Work A.4a, work A.4b a total of 5-5-6-6-7-7 times in width, work 3 chain stitches and 1 double crochet around the next chain-space. Cut the strand. NOTE: This row is worked to allow the side to slope outwards slightly at the bottom. Fasten the strand with 1 double crochet around the top chain-space in the side seen from the right side (i.e. the chain-space outermost by the armhole), work 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), work 4 treble crochets around the same chain-space, work 5 treble crochets around each of the next 4-4-5-5-6-6 chain-spaces (= up to the last chain-space worked on the previous row), work 3 treble crochets around the next chain-space (there is already a double crochet around this chain-space), continue with 5 treble crochets around each of the next 6-6-7-7-8-8 chain-spaces and work 2 treble crochets around the last chain-space (= chain-space with 3 chain stitches) = 55-55-65-65-75-75 treble crochets. The left side is now finished. Cut and fasten the strand.

RIGHT SIDE (between corners A and D – see the sketch): The right side is worked in the same way as the left side but in reverse. Work from the wrong side and skip 15 treble crochets from the chain-space in corner A. Do not cut the strand when the last row with treble crochets has been finished.

CONTINUING DOWN THE BODY: THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! You now continue working on down the body over the bottom edge of the sides and the crochet square. Start from the wrong side and work from the 2nd row in the diagrams as follows: Work A.4a, work 3-4-4-5-6-7 repeats of A.4b along the bottom edge on the right side, continue with A.4b over the 75-75-85-85-95-95 treble crochets on the crochet square (between corners D and C), work 3-4-4-5-6-7 repeats of A.4b along the bottom edge of the left side and finish with A.4a = 21-23-25-27-31-33 chain-spaces. Work rows 3 and 4 in the diagrams 3 times (= a total of 7 rows with chain-spaces) AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 1 chain-space in each side every time you work row 4 – READ INCREASE TIP = 27-29-31-33-37-39 chain-spaces. The piece measures approx. 7 cm. Work the next row from the right side as follows: Work 4 treble crochets around each chain-space AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 14-6-13-5-4-11 treble crochets evenly along the round = 122-122-137-137-152-167 treble crochets.

Work from the 2nd row in the diagrams from the wrong side as follows: Work A.2a, work A.2b (= 8-8-9-9-10-11 repeats in width), work A.2a. On the last row in the diagrams, increase 15-25-20-30-35-30 treble crochets evenly along the row = 137-147-157-167-187-197 treble crochets. When the diagrams have been completed in height, the piece measures approx. 15 cm.

Work from the 2nd row in the diagrams from the wrong side as follows: Work A.4a, work A.4b until there is 1 treble crochet left on the row, work A.4a (= 27-29-31-33-37-39 chain-spaces). Work rows 3 and 4 until you have worked a total of 5-7-5-5-5-7 rows with chain-spaces in height. The piece measures approx. 20-22-20-20-20-22 cm.

Work the next row from the right side as follows: Work 4 treble crochets around each chain-space AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 14-6-13-5-4-11 treble crochets evenly along the row = 122-122-137-137-152-167 treble crochets. Start on row 2 in the diagrams and work A.2a, work A.2b (= 8-8-9-9-10-11 times in width), work A.2a. When the diagrams have been completed in height, the piece measures approx. 70-72-75-79-83-85 cm from the shoulder. Cut and fasten the strand.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
HALF SQUARE: Work 4 chain stitches and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work back and forth from the row with the arrow in the diagrams as follows: Work A.1a (shows how the row starts and finishes), work A.1b a total of 2 times, work A.1c (shows how the row starts and finishes). When the diagrams have been completed in height, the half square measures approx. 21 x 11 cm. Start on row 3 in the diagrams and work as follows: Work A.5a, work A.2b over the next 3 chain-spaces, work A.2c (= the corner), work A.2b over the next 9 chain-spaces (= 3 repeats), work A.2c (= corner), work A.2b over the next 3 chain-spaces, finish with A.5b. When the diagrams have been completed in height, the half square measures approx. 34 x 18 cm. The half square for sizes S and M is now finished. For sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL continue as follows: Start on the next to last row in the diagrams and work A.5a (the half treble crochet on the next to last row is worked around the space between the 3rd and 4th treble crochet), then work A.3b for the rest of the row but in each corner work A.3c, finish with A.5b (NOTE: The first half treble crochet is worked around the space when there are 9 treble crochets left on the row and the second half treble crochet is worked around the space when there are 4 treble crochets left on the row). When the diagrams have been completed in height, the half square measures approx. 39 x 20 cm and the half square is now finished for sizes L and XL. For sizes XXL and XXXL work the last 2 rounds 1 more time in height (= a total of 2 times in height). The half square now measures approx. 43 x 22 cm and is finished for sizes XXL and XXXL. Cut the strand.

RIGHT SHOULDER: Skip 19-19-19-19-24-24 treble crochets from mid front and work the shoulder in the same way as for the left shoulder on the back piece.

RIGHT SIDE: Work the right side in the same way as the left side on the back piece.

CONTINUING DOWN THE BODY: THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Start from the right side, outermost on the right side and work from row 2 as follows: Work A.4a, work 3-4-4-5-6-7 repeats of A.4b along the bottom edge on the right side, then continue with A.4b over the next 35-35-40-40-45-45 treble crochets, work A.4b over the remaining 3 treble crochets and finish with A.4a = 11-12-13-14-16-17 chain-spaces. Work rows 3 and 4 in the diagrams a total of 3 times (= a total of 7 rows with chain-spaces) AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 1 chain-space in the right side as for the back piece = 14-15-16-17-19-20 chain-spaces. The piece measures approx. 7 cm. Work the next row from the wrong side as follows: Work 5 treble crochets around each chain-space, AT THE SAME TIME in sizes M and XXL decrease 5-2 treble crochets evenly spaced along the row and in size L increase 5 treble crochets evenly spaced = 70-70-85-85-93-100 treble crochets.

Work from row 2 in the diagrams from the right side as follows: Work A.2a 1-1-1-1-0-1 time, work A.5a 0-0-0-0-1-0 time, work A.2b 4-4-5-5-5-6 times, work A.5b. On the last row in the diagram, adjust the number of stitches to 70-75-80-85-95-100 treble crochets. When the diagrams have been completed in height, the piece measures approx.15 cm.

Work from row 2 in the diagrams from the right side as follows: Work A.4a, work A.4b until there is 1 treble crochet left on the row, work A.4a (= 14-15-16-17-19-20 chain-spaces). Work rows 3 and 4 until you have worked a total of 5-7-5-5-5-7 rows with chain-spaces in height. The piece measures approx. 20-22-20-20-20-22 cm. Work a row of treble crochets from the wrong side as follows: Work 5 treble crochets around each chain-space, AT THE SAME TIME in sizes M and XXL decrease 5-2 treble crochets evenly along the row and in size L increase 5 treble crochets evenly = 70-70-85-85-93-100 treble crochets.

Turn and work from row 2 in the diagrams from the right side as follows: Work A.2a 1-1-1-1-0-1 time, work A.5a 0-0-0-0-1-0 times, work A.2b 4-4-5-5-5-6 times, work A.5b. When the diagrams have been completed in height, the piece measurers approx. 70-72-75-79-83-85 cm from the shoulder. Cut and fasten the strand.

BAND: Work the band on the right front piece as follows: Start mid front from the wrong side, i.e. from the neck and fasten the strand with 1 double crochet. Work * 4 chain stitches, skip approx. 2½ cm, work 1 double crochet around the edge *, repeat from *-* along the whole edge, turn and work the last row in the diagrams from the right side as follows: Work A.4a, work A.4b until there is 1 double crochet left, work A.4a. Turn the piece and work rows 2 - 4. Cut and fasten the strand.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work the left front piece in the same way as the right front piece but in reverse. In other words, the shoulder is worked in the same way as the right shoulder on the back piece. The side is worked in the same way as the right side on the back piece. When you work down the body, work the first row of chain-spaces from the right side as for the right front piece, but in reverse. When the last row in A.4a, A.4b and A.4c has been completed work as follows from the right side: Work A.5a, work A.2b 4-4-5-5-5-6 times, A.5b 0-0-0-0-1-0 times, A.2a 1-1-1-1-0-1 time. Adjust to match the right front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams together in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so that the seam is not thick.
Lay the side of the one front piece against the side of the back piece and work the sides together from the right side as follows: Start with 1 double crochet in the first treble crochet towards the armhole, work 3 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in the treble crochet on the opposite side, * work 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm, work 1 double crochet in the treble crochet/around the chain-space on the other side *, repeat from *-* down along the whole side. Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other side together in the same way.
Sew the buttons on to the left band through the last row of treble crochets worked on the band. Sew the first button on approx. 3 cm from the neck, then sew the 2 other buttons on with approx. 7 cm between them. Fasten the buttons by pushing them through the chain-spaces on the right band.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Work 1 double crochet mid under the armhole, * 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* around the whole armhole, but finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet. Cut and fasten the strand. Work around the other sleeve in the same way.

NECKLINE:
Start mid front on the band on the right front piece and work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 1 double crochet, * work 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* around the whole neck. The number of chain-spaces should be an odd number.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first chain-space, * 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain-space, 1 double crochet around the next chain-space *, repeat from *-* to the last chain-space, work 3 chain stitches and finish with 1 double crochet in the first stitch at the beginning of the previous round. Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

	= Work 4 chain stitches and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch
	= 1 chain stitch
	= 1 double crochet around the chain-space/between 2 treble crochets
	= 1 double crochet in stitch
	= Work 2 treble crochets together around the chain-stitch ring/chain-space as follows: Work 1 treble crochet, but wait with the last pull through, work 1 more treble crochet, but when you pull through last time, pull the strand through all the loops on the hook
	= 1 treble crochet around the chain-space
	= 1 treble crochet in stitch
	= 1 half treble crochet around the chain-space/ around the space between 2 triple treble crochets/treble crochets
	= 1 double treble crochet around the chain-space
	= 1 triple treble crochet in stitch/around the chain-space
	= Start on this round/row in the diagrams
	= In this double crochet, work A.2a – see description in the text
	= The sketch shows the back piece of the vest

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Show more related videos

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Pattern basics
How to read a size chart

Pattern basics
How to read crochet diagrams

Yarn alternatives
How to change yarns or yarn amounts

Yarn alternatives
How to choose yarn

Pattern basics
How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

Crochet basics
How to start to crochet

Crochet basics
How to make chain stitches (ch).

Crochet basics
How to make a chain ring with a slip stitch

Crochet basics
How to work double crochet (dc)

Crochet basics
How to work half treble crochet (htr)

Crochet basics
How to work treble crochet

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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