DROPS / 215 / 31

Mists of Dover by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca. Size: S - XXXL

  • Mists of Dover / DROPS 215-31 - Knitted jumper in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca. Size: S - XXXL
  • Mists of Dover / DROPS 215-31 - Knitted jumper in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca. Size: S - XXXL
  • Mists of Dover / DROPS 215-31 - Knitted jumper in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern z-903
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 100, off white
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 7323, sea fog

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 96 stitches), and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 16) = 6. In this example decrease by knitting every 5th and 6th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Increase by making 1 yarn over inside 1 edge stitch, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately. Work sleeves back and forth on circular needle. Work neck edge in the round at the end.


BACK PIECE:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 96-104-112-120-132-144 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand off white and 1 strand sea fog. Knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Continue with rib as follows (1st row = right side): 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, finish with purl 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When rib measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Continue in stocking stitch and edge stitches as before – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row decrease 16-18-18-18-22-24 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP in explanation above = 80-86-94-102-110-120 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 10 cm, decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in each side. Repeat decrease every 5 cm 4 times in total = 72-78-86-94-102-112 stitches. When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm, cast off for armhole at beginning of every row in each side: 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 stitches 0-0-1-3-3-4 times, and 1 stitch 1-3-4-3-3-5 times = 64-66-68-70-72-74 stitches. When piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm, cast off the middle 26-26-26-28-28-28 stitches for neck. Finish each shoulder separately. Then decrease 1 stitch on next row from neck =18-19-20-20-21-22 stitches on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 96-104-112-120-132-144 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand off white and 1 strand sea fog. Knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Continue with rib as follows (1st row = right side): 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, finish with knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When rib measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Continue in stocking stitch and edge stitches as before – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row decrease 16-18-18-18-22-24 stitches evenly = 80-86-94-102-110-120 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 10 cm, decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in each side. Repeat decrease every 5 cm 4 times in total = 72-78-86-94-102-112 stitches. When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm, cast off for armhole at beginning of every row in each side: 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 stitches 0-0-1-3-3-4 times, and 1 stitch 1-3-4-3-3-5 times = 64-66-68-70-72-74 stitches. When piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm, cast off the middle 16-16-16-18-18-18 stitches for neck. Finish each shoulder separately. Cast off for neck at the beginning of every row from the neck: 2 stitches 1 time and then 1 stitch 4 times = 18-19-20-20-21-22 stitches for shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 42-46-46-50-50-50 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm with 2 strands sea fog. Knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Switch to 1 strand off white and 1 strand sea fog. Work rib with knit 2/purl 2 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When rib measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row decrease 4-6-4-6-4-4 stitches evenly = 38-40-42-44-46-46 stitches. When piece measures 12-12-12-12-11-11 cm, increase 1 stitch inside edge stitch in each side - read INCREASE TIP in explanation above. Repeat increase every 3½-3-3-2½-2½-2 cm a total of 11-12-12-13-14-16 times = 60-64-66-70-74-78 stitches. When piece measures 50-49-48-47-46-44 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off for sleeve cap at beginning of every row in each side: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 3 times, 1 stitch 0-1-2-3-4-5 times , and then 2 stitches in each side until piece measures 55 cm. Now cast off 3 stitches 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining stitches, piece measures approx. 56 cm in all sizes. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams edge to edge. Sew in sleeves. Sew seam under sleeves and seam down along the sides in one inside 1 edge stitch.

NECK EDGE:
Use a short circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand off white and 1 strand sea fog. Begin at the shoulder seam and pick up approx. 80-88 stitches around the neck, number of stitches should be divisible by 4.
Work rib in round with knit 2 and purl 2 until rib measures approx. 3 cm. Switch to 2 strands sea fog and purl 1 round. Loosely cast off by knitting on next round.

Diagram

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 215-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Berta 03.03.2021 - 23:26:

Hola! Tengo una duda del patrón. He tejido la parte delantera, trasera y mangas. Ahora las estoy ensamblando y me he topado con un problema, cuando he unido la parte delantera con la trasera por los hombros, la cabeza no pasa por la abertura del cuello. Que puedo hacer para solucionarlo? Me aseguré que el número de puntadas fueran las correctas en todos los pasos. Me pueden ayudar? Muchas gracias

user icon DROPS Design 04.03.2021 kl. 15:17:

Hola Berta, necesitas romper las costuras y rematar una orilla elástica en el escote (espalda y delantero del jersey) como asi: MIRA AQUI. Buen trabajo!

country flag Joëlle Caron 21.02.2021 - 14:26:

Bonjour, Pour le dos après la diminution des 28 mailles centrales pour l'encolure il faut diminuer 1 maille au rang suivant à partir de l'encolure une maille suffit pour l'encolure? De chaque côté et on tricote les 18 19 20 20 21 ou22 mailles restantes pour l'épaule si j'ai bien compris merci

user icon DROPS Design 22.02.2021 kl. 08:47:

Bonjour Mme Caron, dans les 3 grandes tailles, vous rabattez les 28 mailles centrales pour l'encolure et terminez chaque épaule séparément. Au rang suivant à partir de l'encolure, vous rabattez encore 1 maille (pour l'encolure toujours), et continuez sur les 20-21-22 mailles restantes jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 56-58-60 cm et vous rabattez ces mailles. Reprenez les mailles de la 1ère épaule et terminez la de la même façon. Bon tricot!

country flag Roussel 27.01.2021 - 19:21:

Bonjour je tricote le modèle 215-31 j’ai un souci pour les manches au lieu de 56cm de longueur j’ai 58cm pourtant j’ai suivi les explications du modèle pouvez vous me renseigner s’il vous plaît? Merci

user icon DROPS Design 28.01.2021 kl. 09:27:

Bonjour Mme Roussel, il est possible que ceci vienne de votre tension, si vous n'avez pas les 22 rangs = 10 cm en hauteur, alors lorsque vous arrêtez de rabattre 2 m de chaque côté jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 55 cm, et rabattez ensuite 1 x 3 m de chaque côté, il doit vous rester 1 cm à faire (= ces 2 rangs) et vous avez ainsi bien 56 cm de hauteur totale. Bon tricot!

country flag Roussel 15.12.2020 - 17:13:

Modèle 215/31 pour faire les diminutions des emmanchures sur ce modèle je tricote la taille 38/40 il faut diminuer 3 mailles ensuite 0 maille dois je sauter après la virgule pour continuer mes diminutions ou faire 4aller retours sans diminution comme pour les autres tailles et ensuite continuer après la virgule mes autres diminutions merci de répondre

user icon DROPS Design 16.12.2020 kl. 06:44:

Bonjour Mme Roussel, en taille S et M, vous rabattez pour les emmanchures d'abord 1 fois 3 mailles de chaque côté, puis 1 fois en taille S ou 3 fois en taille M 1 maille de chaque côté, autrement dit, vous sautez les 2 mailles à rabattre car ces 2 tailles ne sont pas concernées. Bon tricot!

country flag Mari 11.12.2020 - 17:14:

Thank you for your help,does it mean that we decrease in Right row the next stitch of edge stitch and decrease the stitch befor the edge stitch? Could you make a tutorialvideo for this expression for begginers like me?!!

user icon DROPS Design 14.12.2020 kl. 07:08:

Dear Mari, at the beg of a row from right side, work the edge stitch, then knit 2 stitches together - at the end of a row from right side, work until 3 sts remain on left needle, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stith (or alternately knit 2 stitches together), and work the edge stitch. Find videos for these 2 decreases above under See 24 relevant videos here. Happy knitting!

country flag Mari 10.12.2020 - 21:31:

Hi Thank you for your userfriend pattern,but I have a question about your pattern. What do you mean by “ decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in each side” Could you explain more about stitch inside and edge stitch. Do you mean decrease edge stitche and its next stitch?

user icon DROPS Design 11.12.2020 kl. 07:00:

Hi Mari, This means that the edge stitches on each side are worked as before; the decreases are worked after the first edge stitch and before the last edge stitch on the row (which is what is meant by 'inside'). Happy knitting!

country flag Ingela Karlsson 26.10.2020 - 18:32:

När släpper ni detta mönster, längtar!

country flag Yvonne Zander 22.08.2020 - 13:20:

Leuk patroon wanneer is het ongeveer beschikbaar

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