DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 215-31
DROPS design: Pattern z-903
Yarn group A + A or C
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 82-90-98-108-118-130 cm = 32 1/4"-35 1/2"-38 1/2"-42 1/2"-46 1/2"-51 1/4"
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color 100, off white
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color 7323, sea fog

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm = US 8 : Length 60 = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6 : Length 40 = 16” and 60 = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 96 stitches), and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 16) = 6. In this example decrease by knitting every 5th and 6th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Increase by making 1 yarn over inside 1 edge stitch, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately. Work sleeves back and forth on circular needle. Work neck edge in the round at the end.


BACK PIECE:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 96-104-112-120-132-144 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with 1 strand off white and 1 strand sea fog. Knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Continue with rib as follows (1st row = right side): 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, finish with purl 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2", switch to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8. Continue in stockinette stitch and edge stitches as before – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row decrease 16-18-18-18-22-24 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP in explanation above = 80-86-94-102-110-120 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 10 cm = 4”, decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in each side. Repeat decrease every 5 cm = 2" 4 times in total = 72-78-86-94-102-112 stitches. When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm = 12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4", bind off for armhole at beginning of every row in each side: 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 stitches 0-0-1-3-3-4 times, and 1 stitch 1-3-4-3-3-5 times = 64-66-68-70-72-74 stitches. When piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4", bind off the middle 26-26-26-28-28-28 stitches for neck. Finish each shoulder separately. Then decrease 1 stitch on next row from neck =18-19-20-20-21-22 stitches on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8". Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 96-104-112-120-132-144 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with 1 strand off white and 1 strand sea fog. Knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Continue with rib as follows (1st row = right side): 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, finish with knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2", switch to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8. Continue in stockinette stitch and edge stitches as before – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row decrease 16-18-18-18-22-24 stitches evenly = 80-86-94-102-110-120 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 10 cm = 4”, decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in each side. Repeat decrease every 5 cm = 2" 4 times in total = 72-78-86-94-102-112 stitches. When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm = 12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4", bind off for armhole at beginning of every row in each side: 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 stitches 0-0-1-3-3-4 times, and 1 stitch 1-3-4-3-3-5 times = 64-66-68-70-72-74 stitches. When piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17 1/4"-18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4", bind off the middle 16-16-16-18-18-18 stitches for neck. Finish each shoulder separately. Bind off for neck at the beginning of every row from the neck: 2 stitches 1 time and then 1 stitch 4 times = 18-19-20-20-21-22 stitches for shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8". Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 42-46-46-50-50-50 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with 2 strands sea fog. Knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Switch to 1 strand off white and 1 strand sea fog. Work rib with knit 2/purl 2 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2", switch to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8. Work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row decrease 4-6-4-6-4-4 stitches evenly = 38-40-42-44-46-46 stitches. When piece measures 12-12-12-12-11-11 cm = 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/8"-4 3/8", increase 1 stitch inside edge stitch in each side - read INCREASE TIP in explanation above. Repeat increase every 3½-3-3-2½-2½-2 cm = 1 1/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1"-1"-3/4" a total of 11-12-12-13-14-16 times = 60-64-66-70-74-78 stitches. When piece measures 50-49-48-47-46-44 cm = 19 3/4"-19 1/4"-19"-18 1/2"-18"-17 1/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off for sleeve cap at beginning of every row in each side: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 3 times, 1 stitch 0-1-2-3-4-5 times , and then 2 stitches in each side until piece measures 55 cm = 21 5/8". Now bind off 3 stitches 1 time in each side. Bind off the remaining stitches, piece measures approx. 56 cm = 22" in all sizes. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams edge to edge. Sew in sleeves. Sew seam under sleeves and seam down along the sides in one inside 1 edge stitch.

NECK EDGE:
Use a short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and 1 strand off white and 1 strand sea fog. Begin at the shoulder seam and pick up approx. 80-88 stitches around the neck, number of stitches should be divisible by 4.
Work rib in round with knit 2 and purl 2 until rib measures approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8". Switch to 2 strands sea fog and purl 1 round. Loosely bind off by knitting on next round.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 215-31

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Chantal TS wrote:

Bonjour, Je fais une taille 40, quelle taille de pull dois-je choisir, SVP? Merci d'avance

27.11.2023 - 16:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Chantal, pour trouver votre taille, mesurez un pull similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma. Retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

28.11.2023 - 08:27

country flag Lotta wrote:

Jag har köpt Drops alpaca mix, grupp A. Tycker om detta mönster till tröja, innebär det att jag måste sticka med två nystan samtidigt eller kan jag sticka med enbart ett nystan. Hade tänkt sticka mönstret halvpatent. Hur ska jag gå till väga?

06.09.2022 - 23:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lotta, ja, vi har stickat denna med 2 tråder DROPS Alpaca. För att få måttet enligt måttskissen nederst i opskriften, måste du göra ett stickprov så du är säker på att du har 17 maskor på 10 cm i bredden :)

07.09.2022 - 09:15

country flag Linda-Maria Vidkær wrote:

Når der står: Garntype: A+A eller C, betyder det så, at det er to salgs typer garn fra A ELLER en type fra C? 🫣

15.05.2022 - 14:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Linda-Maria. Denne genseren er strikket med 2 tråder DROPS Alpaca og denne kvaliteten tilhører garngruppe A. Derfor står det A+A (1 tråd+ 1 tråd). Om du ønsker å strikke denne genseren i kun 1 tråd (men da ensfarget), kan du velge en garnkvalitet fra garngruppe C. DROPS Garn er delt inn i Garngrupper etter tykkelsen på tråden og strikkefastheten. Garngruppe A er tynnest og Garngruppe F er tykkest. Innefor hver av disse Garngruppene kan garn byttes om hverandre, og passer til hverandres oppskrifter. Ulikt garn har ulik struktur - og man får flere nye og flotte teksturer :) mvh DROPS Design

16.05.2022 - 10:43

country flag Linda-Maria Vidkær wrote:

Hvordan finder jeg ud af, hvilken str. jeg skal bruge? Her tænker jeg mest på brystimplantater og ærmelængde

19.04.2022 - 13:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Linda-Maria. Ta en titt på målskissen nederst på oppskriften og mål på deg selv. Da finner du den størrelsen som vil passe deg best. mvh DROPS Design

19.04.2022 - 13:49

country flag Monique wrote:

Minder bij een hoogte van 10 cm, 1 steek aan de binnenkant van de 1 kantsteek aan elke kant. Kan iemand mij uitleggen wat ik hier precies moet gaan doen want ik snap de zin niet. Ik had gehoopt dat jier een video van was maar die is er niet.

24.02.2022 - 22:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Monique,

Je mindert naast de kantsteken, dus aan het begin van de naald brei je eerst een kantsteek en dan minder je en aan het eind van de naald minder je eerst en dan brei je een kantsteek. je kunt de minderingen aan de goede kant maken en aan het begin van de naald door 1 steek af te halen, 1 steek breien en dan de afgehaalde steek over de gebreide steek halen. Aan het eind van de naald kun je 2 steken samenbreien.

26.02.2022 - 15:14

country flag Ala'a wrote:

Can we use the length 80cm only of the circular needle size 4 mm for rib? I mean without using the length 40cm!

24.01.2022 - 13:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ala'a, sure, but you will then need to work magic loop technique for the parts of the piece that will be too short for the 80 cm needle. Happy knitting!

24.01.2022 - 15:48

country flag Mariette wrote:

Kan ik in plaats van een rondbreinaald ook een gewone rechte naald gebruiken voor dit patroon? 21/31 Wat is een voordeel van een rondbreinaald?

04.01.2022 - 09:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mariette,

Het voordeel van een rondbreinaald, in dit geval, is dat je geen naden hebt in de zijkant en onder de mouw.

Om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien hebben we een instructie gemaakt. Deze vind je hier.

06.01.2022 - 09:42

country flag Berta wrote:

Hola! Tengo una duda del patrón. He tejido la parte delantera, trasera y mangas. Ahora las estoy ensamblando y me he topado con un problema, cuando he unido la parte delantera con la trasera por los hombros, la cabeza no pasa por la abertura del cuello. Que puedo hacer para solucionarlo? Me aseguré que el número de puntadas fueran las correctas en todos los pasos. Me pueden ayudar? Muchas gracias

03.03.2021 - 23:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Berta, necesitas romper las costuras y rematar una orilla elástica en el escote (espalda y delantero del jersey) como asi: MIRA AQUI. Buen trabajo!

04.03.2021 - 15:17

country flag Joëlle Caron wrote:

Bonjour, Pour le dos après la diminution des 28 mailles centrales pour l'encolure il faut diminuer 1 maille au rang suivant à partir de l'encolure une maille suffit pour l'encolure? De chaque côté et on tricote les 18 19 20 20 21 ou22 mailles restantes pour l'épaule si j'ai bien compris merci

21.02.2021 - 14:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Caron, dans les 3 grandes tailles, vous rabattez les 28 mailles centrales pour l'encolure et terminez chaque épaule séparément. Au rang suivant à partir de l'encolure, vous rabattez encore 1 maille (pour l'encolure toujours), et continuez sur les 20-21-22 mailles restantes jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 56-58-60 cm et vous rabattez ces mailles. Reprenez les mailles de la 1ère épaule et terminez la de la même façon. Bon tricot!

22.02.2021 - 08:47

country flag Roussel wrote:

Bonjour je tricote le modèle 215-31 j’ai un souci pour les manches au lieu de 56cm de longueur j’ai 58cm pourtant j’ai suivi les explications du modèle pouvez vous me renseigner s’il vous plaît? Merci

27.01.2021 - 19:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Roussel, il est possible que ceci vienne de votre tension, si vous n'avez pas les 22 rangs = 10 cm en hauteur, alors lorsque vous arrêtez de rabattre 2 m de chaque côté jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 55 cm, et rabattez ensuite 1 x 3 m de chaque côté, il doit vous rester 1 cm à faire (= ces 2 rangs) et vous avez ainsi bien 56 cm de hauteur totale. Bon tricot!

28.01.2021 - 09:27