DROPS / 217 / 19

Lantern River Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and mosaic pattern in garter stitch on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Lantern River Jacket / DROPS 217-19 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and mosaic pattern in garter stitch on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Lantern River Jacket / DROPS 217-19 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and mosaic pattern in garter stitch on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Lantern River Jacket / DROPS 217-19 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and mosaic pattern in garter stitch on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-897
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-350-350-400-400 g colour 501, light grey
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 9024, dark blush
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 5565, light maroon

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 45 rows in height with garter stitch and mosaic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for garter/stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTONS, Mocha NO 623: 6-6-7-7-8-8 items.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

ELEVATION:
To make the neck slightly higher at the back on the round yoke, you can work an elevation as described below. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row. Start from the right side with light grey and knit 12-13-13-14-14-15 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 24-26-26-28-28-30 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 36-39-39-42-42-45 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 48-52-52-56-56-60 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 60-65-65-70-70-75 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 72-78-78-84-84-90 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 84-91-91-98-98-105 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 96-104-104-112-112-120 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit to the end of the row, turn, tighten the strand and purl 1 row back (edge stitches are worked in garter stitch). Then work YOKE as described below.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
All increases worked from the right side! To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 107 stitches) minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 35) = 3. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 3rd stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Do not increase on the edge stitches.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread sits between these 6 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread).
On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve): 
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.x and A.2). NOTE: The mosaic patterns (A.x and A.2) have their own description below.

MOSAIC PATTERN:
See diagrams A.x and A.2 and read the technique below. Each row in A.x and A.2 represents 2 rows; i.e. from the right side, the diagram is worked from right to left and from the wrong side the SAME row is worked from left to right = 1 ridge.

On all rows from the right side, keep the strand at the back of the piece (on the wrong side) when a stitch is slipped.
On all rows from the wrong side, keep the strand in front of the piece (on the wrong side) when a stitch is slipped. It is important that the strands are not tight at the back of the piece – rather allow them to be a little loose.

To keep better control of the pattern, you can insert a marker between each pattern-repeat of A.2.

A.x = help square – this square is not worked, but shows how the pattern-row is to be worked (read more below).
A.2 = 1 pattern-repeat

On the 1-coloured rows in the diagram, work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches without slipping any of the stitches.

On each pattern-row in A.2 which has a black square in A.x (light maroon), all light maroon stitches in A.2 are knitted and all light grey stitches are slipped as described above.

On each pattern-row in A.2 which has a small line in A.x (light grey), all light grey stitches in A.2 are knitted and all light maroon/old rose stitches are slipped as described above.

On each pattern-row in A.2 which has an x in A.x (old rose), all old rose stitches in A.2 are knitted and all light grey stitches are slipped as described above.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck, yoke and body are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The yoke is worked in mosaic pattern. It is important to follow the diagram carefully. The whole pattern is worked in garter stitch, but not in normal garter stitch; the coloured pattern is achieved by slipping stitches. Read description in MOSAIC PATTERN before starting!
The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. The bands are worked to finish.

NECK:
Cast on 117-123-126-129-135-141 stitches (including 6 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and old rose. Purl 1 row. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Change to light grey and continue the rib until the neck measures 3 cm.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Cast off the first 6 stitches, make 1 yarn over, knit the next 105-111-114-117-123-129 stitches and increase, at the same time, 35-37-38-43-49-51 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1 and work rib as before over the last 6 stitches.
Turn the piece, cast off the first 6 stitches, make 1 yarn over (on next row, knit yarn over twisted to avoid hole) and purl the rest of the stitches, apart from the yarn overs which are purled twisted (avoids holes) and the edge stitches (the outermost stitch on each side of the piece) which are worked in garter stitch = 142-150-154-162-174-182 stitches. Insert 1 marker inside the edge stitch at the beginning of the row.
You can now work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation, go straight to YOKE. The yoke is measured from the marker on the neck.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm.
The first row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on the row marked with arrow-1 in A.1, increase 45-45-49-53-57-65 stitches evenly spaced = 187-195-203-215-231-247 stitches.
When A.1 has been completed, work MOSAIC PATTERN – read description above, as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch with light grey, see symbol in A.x (the symbol explains how to work the colours on the row – the symbol is not to be worked itself), work A.2 until there are 2 stitches left on the row (= 46-48-50-53-57-61 repeats of 4 stitches), work the first stitch in A.2 so the pattern begins and ends in the same way on both sides, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in light grey.
Continue this pattern; remember that 1 row in the diagram represents 1 ridge (2 rows; 1 row from the right side and 1 row from the wrong side).

AT THE SAME TIME on each row marked with an arrow in A.2, increase stitches evenly spaced as described below – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
Arrow-2: Increase 44-48-52-56-60-64 stitches evenly spaced = 231-243-255-271-291-311 stitches (there is now room for 57-60-63-67-72-77 repeats of A.2 with 4 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 36-48-60-68-72-76 stitches evenly spaced = 267-291-315-339-363-387 stitches (there is now room for 22-24-26-28-30-32 repeats of A.2 with 12 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 40-40-44-52-56-62 stitches evenly spaced = 307-331-359-391-419-449 stitches.
When A.2 has been completed, work the rest of the piece with light grey.
Work A.3 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side – AT THE SAME TIME on the row marked with arrow-5 in A.3 increase 23-23-27-35-35-41 stitches evenly spaced = 330-354-386-426-454-490 stitches.
When A.3 has been completed, work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the yoke measures 20-22-24-25-27-29 cm from the marker on the neck, divide it for the body and sleeves on the next row as follows: Work 49-53-57-63-68-75 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 68-72-80-88-92-96 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work 96-104-112-124-134-148 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece), place the next 68-72-80-88-92-96 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve) and work the last 49-53-57-63-68-75 stitches as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately.

BODY:
= 206-222-242-266-290-318 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 52-56-61-67-73-80 stitches in from each side (= sides of body). There are 102-110-120-132-144-158 stitches between threads on the back piece. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Work stocking stitch back and forth, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 5 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6 cm a total of 4 times = 222-238-258-282-306-334 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 27 cm from the division in all sizes. There is approx. 4 cm left to finished length; you can try the jacket on and work to desired length.
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 66-71-78-84-90-101 stitches evenly spaced = 288-309-336-366-396-435 stitches (this is done to avoid the rib being tight).
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, purl 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 68-72-80-88-92-96 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 74-78-88-96-102-106 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Start at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When the piece measures 3-3-3-3-2-1 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-2½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm a total of 12-13-16-19-21-21 times = 50-52-56-58-60-64 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 38-37-35-35-33-32 cm from the division. There is approx. 6 cm left to finished length; you can try the jacket on and work to desired length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round where you increase 13-14-16-17-18-20 stitches evenly spaced = 63-66-72-75-78-84 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib (= knit 1, purl 2) for 5½ cm. Change to old rose and work 2 more rounds of rib. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP!
The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-41-41-39-38 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

LEFT BAND:
Knit up from the right side approx. 120 to 140 stitches along the left front piece inside the 1 edge stitch, using circular needle size 3 mm and light grey. Purl 1 row from the wrong side where you increase evenly to 147-153-159-162-168-174 stitches (number of stitches divisible by 3).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2½ to 3 cm (match the length to the width of the cast-off stitches on the neck). Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND:
Work in the same way as the left band but after 1 cm work 6-6-7-7-8-8 buttonholes evenly spaced. The top buttonhole is worked in the transition between the neck and the yoke and the bottom buttonhole approx. 2 to 4 cm from the bottom edge. It is neatest to work the buttonholes in a purled section (seen from the right side).
1 BUTTONHOLE = purl 2 together and make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the bands to the neck at the top of the front pieces – sew inside the 1 edge stitch on the band. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = light maroon
symbols = dark blush
symbols = light grey
symbols = increase-row
symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 217-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Rodneyhox 04.09.2021 - 01:53:

Reduslim uomo Rodneyhox

country flag Rodneyhox 02.09.2021 - 14:07:

Come perdere la pancia Rodneyhox

country flag Line 30.03.2021 - 03:33:

L’etoile dans A1. et A3 veut dire quoi?

user icon DROPS Design 30.03.2021 kl. 11:33:

Bonjour Line, l'etoile signifie 1 maille endroit sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

country flag Elisabet 10.03.2021 - 21:17:

Hej, Det står att alla maskor i rader med enfärgade rutor skall stickas rätstickning fram och tillbaka. Menas det då att de enfärgade rutorna i A1 är två rätstickade rader? Mvh Elisabet

country flag Lilian 12.01.2021 - 18:10:

Het youtube filmpje van mozaiekbreien was heel duidelijk maar ik loop toch vast in het patroon! Ik begrijp dat 1 blokje twee naalden is. Bij patroon A.2 loop ik al meteen vast. Bij de vierde ribbel moet ik beginnen met een roze afhaling ( na de kantsteek) maar er staat een grijze steek op de naald. Ook verder in het patroon kom ik dat tegen. Wat begrijp ik verkeerd?

user icon DROPS Design 17.01.2021 kl. 12:11:

Dag Lilian,

Bij de vierder ribbel staat in A.x een horizontaal streepje en dat betekent dat je alle lichtgrijze steken in A.2 recht moet breien en alle roze steken af moet halen. Hierbij gaat het niet om de roze of grijze steken van de vorige naald, maar van de huidige naald. Omdat bij een roze steek van de huidige naald een grijze steek van de vorige naald op je linker naald staat is dat wat verwarrend. Het klopt dus dat je een grijze steek af moet halen.

country flag Ansan 16.12.2020 - 13:59:

Tack för svar, men det blir inte rätt ändå i diagrammet. Jag valde att sticka vanliga rillepinner och ta bort några varv. Jag har läst beskrivningen noga flera gånger och så även min mamma. Jag har stickat i över 40 och och hon i över 60 och vi har aldrig sett en så konstig beskrivning.

country flag Ansan 06.12.2020 - 00:19:

På varv 9 i diagrammen ( gör L och A.2) går det ju inte lyfta 3 mörk blush när man bara stickat 1 mörk blush på varv 8. Ska man sticka med både ljusgrå och blush? Har stickat i 45 år och har aldrig sett en så dumt konstruerad beskrivning av hur man gör. Rörigt!! Skriv i den ordning man ska göra istället!

user icon DROPS Design 16.12.2020 kl. 12:09:

Hei Ansa. Litt usikker på hvor det blir feil hos deg, men husk at hver rad i A.x og A.2 tilsvarer 2 pinner. Altså 1 rad i diagrammet = 2 pinner (fra retten strikkes diagrammet fra høyre mot venstre, og fra vrangen strikkes SAMME rad fra venstre mot høyre = 1 rille). Husk å lese forklaringen til Mosaikkmønster før det strikkes. mvh DROPS design

country flag Maria Prudêncio 04.06.2020 - 14:04:

My favourite.

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