Shout for Winter by DROPS Design
Knitted jacket with raglan and False English rib in 2 strands DROPS Air. Sizes S - XXXL.
Keywords:
bat sleeves, bottom up, chunky knits, english rib, jacket, long sleeves, raglan, round neck, wide sleeves
DROPS 215-28
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-272
Yarn group C + C or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 01, off white
KNITTING TENSION:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows in height, with stocking stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 630: 5-6-6-6-6-6 items.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-272
Yarn group C + C or E
-------------------------------------------------------
SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 01, off white
KNITTING TENSION:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows in height, with stocking stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 630: 5-6-6-6-6-6 items.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 65 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 5.5. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 5th and 6th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 4th and 5th stitch and each 5th and 6th stitch. Do not increase/decrease over the bands.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.
FALSE ENGLISH RIB (back and forth):
ROW 1 (= right side): * Knit 1, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, knit 1.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit 1, * purl together slipped stitch and yarn over from the previous row, knit 1 *, work from *-*.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 onwards.
RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker-stitch; the increased stitches on front pieces are worked into the False English rib and the increased stitches on back piece and sleeves are worked in stocking stitch.
Work as far as the marker-stitch, make 1 yarn over, work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-stitch, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, knit 1 (marker-stitch), knit 2 together.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band. 1 buttonhole = work until there are 4 stitches left on the row, knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over and 2 garter stitches. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the piece measures approx. 11 cm from the cast-on edge (remember that all measurements are taken on the back piece). The other 4-5-5-5-5-5 buttonholes are worked with approx. 10-8½-9-9-9½-10 cm between each one.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.
The whole piece is worked with 2 strands. Due to the pattern on the front pieces, the piece will be shorter at the front than at the back; all measurements are taken on the back piece.
NECK:
Cast on 65-65-65-69-69-69 stitches with 2 strands Air and circular needle size 7 mm. Work rib back and forth as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue with knit over knit, purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch for 10 cm in all sizes – adjust so the next row is from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 9 mm and purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and increase AT THE SAME TIME 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP in explanations above = 75-75-75-81-81-81 stitches.
YOKE:
Continue as follows from the right side:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches in FALSE ENGLISH RIB – see description above (= left front piece), 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert marker-1 in this stitch. 9 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert marker-2 in this stitch. 21-21-21-23-23-23 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece), 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert marker-3 in this stitch. 9 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert marker-4 in this stitch. Work 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches in False English rib, 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece). Insert a marker thread in the middle of the back piece; leave it there – the yoke is measured from this thread! Remember BUTTONHOLES on the right band – see description above.
Continue the pattern and on the next row from the right side, begin to increase to RAGLAN – see description above. Repeat this increase on every row from the right side a total of 6-8-11-14-19-23 times, then every other row from the right side a total of 5-5-4-3-1-0 times = 163-179-195-217-241-265 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work until the piece measures 23-26-27-29-30-33 cm, measured from the marker thread on the back– adjust so the next row is from the right side.
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work the first 27-29-31-35-38-41 stitches (= left front piece), place the next 33-37-41-45-51-57 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 7 new stitches under the sleeve, work the next 43-47-51-57-63-69 stitches (= back piece), place the next 33-37-41-45-51-57 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 7 new stitches under the sleeve, work the remaining 27-29-31-35-38-41 stitches (= right front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately.
BODY:
= 111-119-127-141-153-165 stitches.
Continue with 5 band stitches in garter stitch, False English rib on the front pieces and stocking stitch over the new stitches under the sleeves and on the back piece. Work until the piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder down – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Change to circular needle size 7 mm and work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1*, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue with knit over knit, purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch for 4 cm in all sizes. The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down; the front is approx. 8-9-9-10-10-10 cm shorter than the back. Loosely cast off.
SLEEVE:
Place the 33-37-41-45-51-57 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 9 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 40-44-48-52-58-64 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 4 cm, start to decrease under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP in explanations above. Repeat the decrease every 6½-6- 5-4-4-3 cm a total of 4-4-4-5-7-9 times = 32-36-40-42-44-46 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures approx. 35-33-33-32-32-30 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 7 mm and knit 1 round where you decrease 6-8-12-12-12-14 stitches evenly spaced = 26-28-28-30-32-32 stitches.
Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
-------------------------------------------------------
INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 65 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 5.5. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 5th and 6th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 4th and 5th stitch and each 5th and 6th stitch. Do not increase/decrease over the bands.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.
FALSE ENGLISH RIB (back and forth):
ROW 1 (= right side): * Knit 1, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, knit 1.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit 1, * purl together slipped stitch and yarn over from the previous row, knit 1 *, work from *-*.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 onwards.
RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker-stitch; the increased stitches on front pieces are worked into the False English rib and the increased stitches on back piece and sleeves are worked in stocking stitch.
Work as far as the marker-stitch, make 1 yarn over, work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-stitch, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, knit 1 (marker-stitch), knit 2 together.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band. 1 buttonhole = work until there are 4 stitches left on the row, knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over and 2 garter stitches. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the piece measures approx. 11 cm from the cast-on edge (remember that all measurements are taken on the back piece). The other 4-5-5-5-5-5 buttonholes are worked with approx. 10-8½-9-9-9½-10 cm between each one.
-------------------------------------------------------
START THE PIECE HERE:
-------------------------------------------------------
JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.
The whole piece is worked with 2 strands. Due to the pattern on the front pieces, the piece will be shorter at the front than at the back; all measurements are taken on the back piece.
NECK:
Cast on 65-65-65-69-69-69 stitches with 2 strands Air and circular needle size 7 mm. Work rib back and forth as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue with knit over knit, purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch for 10 cm in all sizes – adjust so the next row is from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 9 mm and purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and increase AT THE SAME TIME 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP in explanations above = 75-75-75-81-81-81 stitches.
YOKE:
Continue as follows from the right side:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches in FALSE ENGLISH RIB – see description above (= left front piece), 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert marker-1 in this stitch. 9 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert marker-2 in this stitch. 21-21-21-23-23-23 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece), 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert marker-3 in this stitch. 9 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert marker-4 in this stitch. Work 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches in False English rib, 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece). Insert a marker thread in the middle of the back piece; leave it there – the yoke is measured from this thread! Remember BUTTONHOLES on the right band – see description above.
Continue the pattern and on the next row from the right side, begin to increase to RAGLAN – see description above. Repeat this increase on every row from the right side a total of 6-8-11-14-19-23 times, then every other row from the right side a total of 5-5-4-3-1-0 times = 163-179-195-217-241-265 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work until the piece measures 23-26-27-29-30-33 cm, measured from the marker thread on the back– adjust so the next row is from the right side.
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work the first 27-29-31-35-38-41 stitches (= left front piece), place the next 33-37-41-45-51-57 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 7 new stitches under the sleeve, work the next 43-47-51-57-63-69 stitches (= back piece), place the next 33-37-41-45-51-57 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 7 new stitches under the sleeve, work the remaining 27-29-31-35-38-41 stitches (= right front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately.
BODY:
= 111-119-127-141-153-165 stitches.
Continue with 5 band stitches in garter stitch, False English rib on the front pieces and stocking stitch over the new stitches under the sleeves and on the back piece. Work until the piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder down – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Change to circular needle size 7 mm and work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1*, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue with knit over knit, purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch for 4 cm in all sizes. The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down; the front is approx. 8-9-9-10-10-10 cm shorter than the back. Loosely cast off.
SLEEVE:
Place the 33-37-41-45-51-57 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 9 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 40-44-48-52-58-64 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 4 cm, start to decrease under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP in explanations above. Repeat the decrease every 6½-6- 5-4-4-3 cm a total of 4-4-4-5-7-9 times = 32-36-40-42-44-46 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures approx. 35-33-33-32-32-30 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 7 mm and knit 1 round where you decrease 6-8-12-12-12-14 stitches evenly spaced = 26-28-28-30-32-32 stitches.
Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Updated online: 22.12.2020
Correction: Measurements for yoke and body + measurement sketch updated.
Correction: Measurements for yoke and body + measurement sketch updated.
Updated online: 05.02.2021
The number of buttonholes and their placement are corrected.
The number of buttonholes and their placement are corrected.
Diagram
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 299 catalogues and 11076 patterns - 11076 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
''Dalej przerabiać tak samo, w tym samym czasie, w następnym rzędzie na prawej stronie robótki zacząć dodawanie oczek na REGLAN – patrz powyżej. Powtarzać dodawanie oczek w sumie 6-8-11-14-19-23 razy w każdym rzędzie na prawej stronie robótki i 5-5-4-3-1-0 razy co 2 rzędy na prawej stronie robótki (= co 4 rzędy) = 163-179-195-217-241-265 oczek. '' Nie rozumiem gdzie mają być dodane te oczka.
20.03.2023 - 17:53DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Iwono, na reglan dodajesz 1 oczko z każdej strony 4 oczek z markerem (to będą 4 linie reglanu), czyli jest dodanych 8 oczek w każdym rzędzie, w którym wg opisu dodajesz oczka. W tym modelu oczka na reglan są dodawane zawsze na prawej stronie robótki: najpierw co 2 rzędy, a następnie co 4 rzędy. Pozdrawiamy!
21.03.2023 kl. 08:32Hello, I would love to make this jacket but it suggests using circular needles. Can you please tell me how to adapt the pattern to straight needles? Thank you, lena
10.01.2022 - 22:21DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Davidian, only sleeves are worked here in the round, you will find how to adapt a pattern into straight needles here. Happy knitting!
11.01.2022 kl. 09:09Når jeg klikker på rettelser til opskriften, står der blot, at rettelsen er foretaget online, men ikkehvad rettelsen går ud på. Hvordan får jeg svar på det?\r\nVenlig hilsen, Else Lindberg .
01.03.2021 - 16:43DROPS Design answered:
Hei Else. Jo, det står hva rettelsene går ut på og når det ble oppdatert (det er rettet i selve oppskriften og hva det er rettet står under rettelseknappen.: Opdateret online: 22.12.2020. Rettelse: Målene på bærestykket og ryg-& forstykke + måleskitse er opdateret. Opdateret online: 05.02.2021 Antal knaphuller og placeringen af dem er rettet. mvh DROPS design
03.03.2021 kl. 13:41Bonjour, Au moment de la division des différentes parties, il est indiqué de tricoter les 27 premières mailles (taille S) correspondant au devant gauche. Ces mailles incluant les 5 mailles bordures, on se retrouve avec un nombre pair pour les mailles en fausses côtes anglaises (22m.) alors que nous devons toujours finir par une maille endroit les fausses côtes donc avoir un nombre pair de mailles. Comment faire ? Faut-il ajouter une maille pour avoir un nombre pair ? Merci d'avance.
02.02.2021 - 00:20DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Tania, vous tricotez les 22 mailles du devant en côtes anglaises, mais vous pouvez, si vous le souhaitez, terminer ces mailles par la 1ère maille des fausses côtes anglaises, autrement dit, tricotez la 1ère des mailles montées sous la 1ère manche et la dernière des mailles montées sous la 2ème manche comme la 1ère des mailles des fausses côtes anglaises. Bon tricot!
02.02.2021 kl. 10:37Could you help me with buttonhole placement? I see only 5buttons on the picture and when I reach the measurement to start the rib on the bottom I will have only 5 buttons as the front wil be about 8cm smaller than the back could you tell me where I am going wrong. I am doing the small size and I did a swatch and my tension is OK? Thank you
19.01.2021 - 13:30Bonjour, Pour les augmentations est-ce donc : - rang endroit = augmentations Raglan (+8 mailles) - rang envers = rien Répété 6 fois. Puis : - rang endroit = augmentations Raglan (+8 mailles) - rang envers = rien - rang endroit = rien - rang envers = rien Répété 5 fois. Puis on tricote normalement (sans augmenter) jusqu'à atteindre les 23 cm. Merci pour votre réponse !
17.01.2021 - 15:09DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Tania, tout à fait, ceci correspond aux augmentations du raglan en taille S. Bon tricot!
18.01.2021 kl. 09:56Bonjour, Pour les augmentations il est dit "Répéter ces augmentations 6 fois au total tous les rangs sur l'endroit et 5 fois tous les 2 rangs sur l'endroit (= tous les 4 rangs) = 163 mailles." (taille S) : faut-il augmenter jusqu'à avoir la bonne taille de 23cm ou seulement 1 rang sur 4 ? Et au niveau des marqueurs seulement ou aussi ailleurs ? Je n'ai pas bien compris ce passage concernant que des rangs endroits. Merci par avance pour votre aide !
12.01.2021 - 08:34DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Tania, en taille S vous devez augmenter 6 x tous les rangs sur l'endroit (= tous les 2 rangs = 1 rang d'augmentations sur l'endroit, 1 rang sans augmenter sur l'envers) et 5 fois tous les 2 rangs sur l'endroit (= tous les 4 rangs = 1 rang d'augmentation sur l'endroit, 3 rangs sans augmenter). Augmentez 8 m à chaque fois comme indiqué sous RAGLAN (= 1 m de chaque côté de chacun des 4 marqueurs = 2 m à chaque marqueur = 8 m au total). Si vous n'avez pas atteint les 23 cm quand toutes les augmentations sont terminées, tricotez jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 23 cm, mais sans augmenter. Bon tricot!
12.01.2021 kl. 09:25Bonjour, Pour ce modèle, j’ai suivis les conseils d’association de fils de votre site, en prenant du Big Merino avec du Brushed Alpaga Silk (considérés tous deux comme des C, devant donner un échantillon de 10 mailles = à 10 cm en aiguilles n°9). Or, le fil Brushed Alpaga Silk est beaucoup plus fin que le Big Merino et quelque soit ma tension je n'arrive pas à obtenir la bonne taille d’échantillon. Auriez-vous des conseils à donner (e.g. changer de laine) ? Merci!
10.01.2021 - 22:16DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Tania, effectivement, des fils de texture/composition différentes donneront un effet différent et une texture différente également. Vous trouverez ici tous les fils du groupe C (vous pouvez également remplacer 1 fil du groupe C par 2 fils du groupe A). Votre magasin saura vous conseiller si besoin, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!
11.01.2021 kl. 10:58Kann ich dieses Modell auch einfädig stricken, damit die Jacke nicht so warm wird? Falls das mit Air nicht geht, welches Garn käme alternativ in Frage? Danke schonmal und viele Grüße
10.01.2021 - 21:34DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Anne, 2 Fäden Air (= Garngruppe C) können Sie durch 1 Faden Garngruppe E ersetzen - versuchen Sie unseren Garnumrechner und hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
11.01.2021 kl. 10:17Danke für die schöne Anleitung - was mir nicht klar ist, ist, wie ich die jeweils 7 neu angeschlagenen Maschen (Ärmelunterteil) mit den stillgelegten Maschen des Ärmels zusammenfügen muss. 33 M plus "je 1 M aus den 7 neu angeschlagenen M = 40 M. " verstehe ich nicht, da ich über diese 7 Maschen ja bereits hinweggestrickt habe. Wie nehme ich was genau auf? Danke für die Hilfe!
26.12.2020 - 12:17DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Kohlberger, in dieser Lektion zeigen wir, wie man einen Pullover von oben nach unten strickt, im Foto 18-B) wird gezeigt, wie man 1 Masche aus den (7 in diese Jacke) neu angeschlagenen Maschen aufnimmt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
04.01.2021 kl. 08:34