DROPS / 214 / 25

Cool Cables Set by DROPS Design

Knitted hat, neck warmer with saddle shoulder and mittens in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The whole set is worked with cables and ribbed edging.

  • Cool Cables Set / DROPS 214-25 - Knitted hat, neck warmer with saddle shoulder and mittens in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The whole set is worked with cables and ribbed edging.
  • Cool Cables Set / DROPS 214-25 - Knitted hat, neck warmer with saddle shoulder and mittens in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The whole set is worked with cables and ribbed edging.
  • Cool Cables Set / DROPS 214-25 - Knitted hat, neck warmer with saddle shoulder and mittens in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The whole set is worked with cables and ribbed edging.
  • Cool Cables Set / DROPS 214-25 - Knitted hat, neck warmer with saddle shoulder and mittens in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The whole set is worked with cables and ribbed edging.
DROPS Design: Pattern no me-209
Yarn group B

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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
S/M – M/L

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500 g colour 13, denim blue

HAT:

SIZES:
S/M – M/L
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 – 56/58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150 g colour 13, denim blue

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: For cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

NECK WARMER:

SIZES:
S/M – M/L
Length from shoulder: Approx. 36-38 cm.
Width: Approx. 36-40 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300 g colour 13, denim blue

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: For cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

MITTENS:

SIZES:
S/M – M/L
Length: Approx. 30-32 cm. Circumference: Approx. 18-19 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100 g colour 13, denim blue

KNITTING TENSION:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM: For rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: For cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.90£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
Neck warmer: See diagrams A.3, A.4 and A.5.
Mittens: See diagrams A.6, A.7 and A.8.
The diagrams show all rows from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 108 stitches), and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 24) = 4.5. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 4th and 5th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch and each 4th and 5th stitch.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for saddle shoulder increase):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from the front and knit stitch in back loop.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for thumb):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (top of mitten):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches) slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 108-108 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 14-18 cm.
Change to short circular needle size 4 mm and knit 1 round where you increase 24-24 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 132-132 stitches. Continue with A.1 in the round (= 6-6 repeats of 22 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been worked 5 times in height, work A.2 (= 6-6 repeats of 22 stitches). When A.2 has been completed there are 48-48 stitches left.
Work 2 rounds where all stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 on both rounds = 12-12 stitches.
Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 31-35 cm from the top down. Fold up the bottom 7-9 cm.

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NECK WARMER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, top down. Stitches are increased for saddle shoulders, then stitches are cast off and each section is finished separately, back and forth.

NECK WARMER:
Cast on 128-136 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work rib in the round (starting from the left shoulder when the garment is worn) as follows: * Purl 2, knit 2,*, work from *-* to end of round. Continue this rib for 7-8 cm.
Insert 1 marker thread; the piece is now measured from here.
Insert 4 markers as described below – without working the stitches. The markers are placed between stitches and are used when increasing for saddle shoulders.
Marker 1 is inserted at the beginning of the round, count 42-42 stitches (= back piece), insert marker 2 before the next stitch, count 22-26 stitches (= shoulder), insert marker 3 before the next stitch, count 42-42 stitches (= front piece) and insert marker 4 before the next stitch. There are 22-26 stitches left for the shoulder. Allow all 4 markers to follow your work onwards.

SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work the first round as follows: Work A.3a (= 1 stitch), A.4 (= 40 stitches), A.5a (= 1 stitch), continue with rib as before over the next 22-26 stitches, work A.3a (= 1 stitch), A.4 (= 40 stitches), A.5a (= 1 stitch), and continue with rib as before over the remaining 22-26 stitches. There are 136-144 stitches on the needle.
On the next round the increase for saddle shoulders begin, increase 4 stitches on every round as described below (the pattern continues but when A.4 is finished in height; repeat the pattern as before - see A.4b):
Increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 1 and 3 (after the 22-26 ribbed stitches) and increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 2 and 4 (before the 22-26 ribbed stitches) – read INCREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches increased on the round). The number of stitches on the shoulders remains the same, the increased stitches are on the front and back pieces.
Continue the pattern and increase like this EVERY round a total of 25-31 times (a total of 24-28 stitches are also increased in A.3a and A.5a as shown in the diagrams) = 260-296 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase the piece measures approx. 9-11 cm along the shoulders (where the marker thread is).
When there is 1 round left in A.3a and A.5a, work as follows: Work as before as far as marker 2, cast off the 22-26 shoulder-stitches, making sure the cast-off edge is not tight, work to marker 4 and cast off the remaining 22-26 shoulder-stitches. Back and front pieces are finished separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 108-122 stitches. Continue the pattern back and forth as before; i.e. the first row is worked from the right side as follows: Work A.3b over the first 32-39 stitches, continue A.4 as before over the next 44-44 stitches and work A.5b over the remaining 32-39 stitches. Continue back and forth and repeat A.3b, A.4b and A.5b in height until the piece measures approx. 33-35 cm from the shoulder, measuring close to the neck and with the piece flat (28-29 cm from the marker on the neck) – NOTE: adjust so you finish after the last row in A.4.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib from the right side as follows: Work 2 stitches in garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl the next 30-37 stitches, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 10 stitches, purl 4, knit 2, purl 3, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 3, knit 2, purl 4, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 10 stitches, knit over knit and purl over purl the next 30-37 stitches and finish with 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The neck warmer measures approx 36-38 cm from the shoulder, when flat.

FRONT PIECE:
= 108-122 stitches. Work in the same way as the back piece.

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MITTENS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, bottom up.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Cast on 48-48 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 12-13 cm. Then work as follows: * Knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the first 28 stitches, knit 2, work A.6 (= 14 stitches), knit 2 and purl 2. When A.6 has been completed in height there are 52-52 stitches on the needles. Insert a marker on the round. The piece is now measured from this marker.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work as follows: Knit the first 27 stitches and decrease 8-6 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit 3, work A.7 (= 18 stitches) over A.6 and knit 4 = 44-46 stitches on the round. Continue this pattern onwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 1½ cm from the marker, increase for the thumb by increasing 1 stitch on each side of the first stitch on the round – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this on each side of the increased stitches every 2nd round a total of 5-6 times in height = 54-58 stitches.
Place the 11-13 thumb-stitches on a thread. Continue in the round – AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round, cast on 1 stitch over the stitches on the thread = 44-46 stitches.
Continue working until the mitten measures approx. 15-16 cm from the marker – adjust so the next round is not a cable-round in A.7 (i.e. not round 4 or 8).
There is approx. 3 cm left to finished length; try the mitten on and continue to desired length.
Now work A.8 over A.7 – the other stitches are worked as before. When A.8 has been completed in height there are 40-42 stitches on the needles.
Insert 1 marker thread in each side of the mitten, with 20 stitches on the palm and 20-22 stitches on the back. There are 3-4 knitted stitches between the marker threads and A.8.
On the next round decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 3 times, then every round a total of 3 times = 16-18 stitches. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 8-9 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The mitten measures approx. 30-32 cm from the top down. You can turn up the 6-6½ cm of the rib. if you wish

THUMB:
Place the 11-13 thumb-stitches from the thread onto double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and knit up 4-3 stitches around the opening = 15-16 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round for 5-5½ cm. There is now ½ cm left to finished length; try the mitten on and continue to desired length. Knit 1-0, then knit the remaining stitches together 2 and 2 = 8 stitches left. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 4 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

LEFT MITTEN:
Cast on 48-48 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 12-13 cm. Then work as follows: * Knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the first 28 stitches, knit 2, work A.6 (= 14 stitches), knit 2 and purl 2. When A.6 has been completed in height there are 52-52 stitches on the needles. Insert a marker on the round. The piece is now measured from this marker.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work as follows: Knit the first 27 stitches and decrease 8-6 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit 3, work A.7 (= 18 stitches) over A.6 and knit 4 = 44-46 stitches. Continue this pattern onwards.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 1½ cm from the marker, increase for the thumb by increasing 1 stitch on each side of the 19th-21st stitch on the round – remember INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this on each side of the increased stitches every 2nd round a total of 5-6 times = 54-58 stitches.
Place the 11-13 thumb-stitches on a thread. Continue in the round –
AT THE SAME TIME on the first round cast on 1 stitch over the stitches on the thread = 44-46 stitches.
The rest of the mitten is worked in the same way as the right mitten.
Work the thumb in the same way as the right thumb.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 14.10.2020
Correction:
Diagram and text to A.4b updated.
Updated online: 04.11.2020
Correction: Symbol and symbol explanation added: "this square has no stitch; go straight to next symbol in diagram"

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = this square has no stitch; go straight to next symbol in diagram
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 214-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Ann Duke 17.03.2021 - 16:01:

Please disregard my previously sent questions as I misread the pattern. All is well now!

country flag Ann Duke 17.03.2021 - 15:28:

Your instructions for the Neckwarmer state to knit in pattern until 11-3/8" and then do the ribbing for 1-1/8" and piece should measure 15" from the shoulder. These numbers do not add up. Can you please verify. Thank you!

user icon DROPS Design 17.03.2021 kl. 16:10:

Dear Mrs Duke, the 15" are measured from shoulder towards the bottom edge, while the 11 3/8" were measured from the marker on the neck. Happy knitting!

country flag Karine 25.02.2021 - 11:09:

Kasvatamine/kahandamine. Kasvata pärast 4,5 silmust tehes õhksilmus pärast 54 silma? Kas ei peaks olema peale 5 ja 4 silma .

country flag Lucille 02.02.2021 - 19:53:

J'ai encore une question ! Sur le diagramme A.4, la répétition du motif A4.b (8 rangs) entraîne la création de 4 jetés. Hors sur les photos du plastron il y a bien 5 jetés lors de la répétition du motif. Comment faire? Je vous remercie

user icon DROPS Design 03.02.2021 kl. 08:45:

Bonjour Lucile, les motifs ne se répètent pas sur le même nombre de rangs; les torsades de chaque côté de A.4b se tricotent sur 8 rangs mais le point ajouré se tricote sur 10 rangs. Après le 8ème rang, reprenez les torsades au 1er rang et tricotez le 9ème rang du point ajouré; au rang suivant, vous tricoterez le 2ème rang des torsades et le 10ème rang du point ajouré, et ainsi de suite. Continuez bien les 2 en parallèle. Bon tricot!

country flag Lucille Coulonges 31.01.2021 - 15:16:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas à quoi correspond les 2 rangs de 24 mailles au-dessus de la partie A4.b? A quelle moment doivent elles être tricotées ?

user icon DROPS Design 31.01.2021 kl. 19:31:

Bonjour Lucille, c'est quand on repete le diagram A.4 pour la derniere fois. Les torsades de 2 cotes ne sont plus a realiser, ces mailles (a doite et a gauche) sont tricotes a l'endroit sur l'endroit (envers sur l'envers). Bon tricot!

country flag Jenni K-S 03.01.2021 - 20:05:

Milloin ohjeen mallineuleiden piirrokset lisätään ohjeeseen?

user icon DROPS Design 12.03.2021 kl. 14:18:

Hei, piirrokset on lisätty ohjeeseen.

country flag Sofia 16.12.2020 - 20:32:

Storleken stämmer inte alls! Jag använde rätt garn och stickor nummer 3. Måttade ut att jag behövde st M/L på mössan, gjorde resåren = alldeles för många timmar, innan jag insåg att mössan skulle passa bättre på en 1-åring. Fick repa upp allt. Och ja jag kollade stickfastheten.

country flag Mari Jaana 12.12.2020 - 23:38:

From the Finnish instructions are all the pictures of patterns missing. Can we please have them.

country flag Teresa 05.12.2020 - 14:56:

È mia intenzione come faccio sempre lavorare il berretto in Piano anziché in tondo però vorrei sapere come devo comportarmi con gli schemi Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 05.12.2020 kl. 20:16:

Buonasera Teresa, i diagrammi mostrano la lavorazione dal diritto del lavoro: se vuol lavorare in piano deve adattare il motivo. Buon lavoro!

country flag Maija-Liisa Oksa 09.11.2020 - 17:33:

Ohjeesta puuttuvat kokonaan mallineuleen ohjekuvat.

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