DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
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Cool Cables Set

Knitted hat, neck warmer with saddle shoulder and mittens in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The whole set is worked with cables and ribbed edging.

DROPS 214-25

#coolcablesset

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-209
Yarn group B

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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
S/M – M/L

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500 g colour 13, denim blue

HAT:

SIZES:
S/M – M/L
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 – 56/58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150 g colour 13, denim blue

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: For cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

NECK WARMER:

SIZES:
S/M – M/L
Length from shoulder: Approx. 36-38 cm.
Width: Approx. 36-40 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300 g colour 13, denim blue

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: For cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

MITTENS:

SIZES:
S/M – M/L
Length: Approx. 30-32 cm. Circumference: Approx. 18-19 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100 g colour 13, denim blue

KNITTING TENSION:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM: For rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: For cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
Neck warmer: See diagrams A.3, A.4 and A.5.
Mittens: See diagrams A.6, A.7 and A.8.
The diagrams show all rows from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 108 stitches), and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 24) = 4.5. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 4th and 5th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch and each 4th and 5th stitch.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for saddle shoulder increase):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from the front and knit stitch in back loop.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for thumb):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (top of mitten):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches) slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 108-108 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 14-18 cm.
Change to short circular needle size 4 mm and knit 1 round where you increase 24-24 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 132-132 stitches. Continue with A.1 in the round (= 6-6 repeats of 22 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been worked 5 times in height, work A.2 (= 6-6 repeats of 22 stitches). When A.2 has been completed there are 48-48 stitches left.
Work 2 rounds where all stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 on both rounds = 12-12 stitches.
Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 31-35 cm from the top down. Fold up the bottom 7-9 cm.

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NECK WARMER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, top down. Stitches are increased for saddle shoulders, then stitches are cast off and each section is finished separately, back and forth.

NECK WARMER:
Cast on 128-136 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work rib in the round (starting from the left shoulder when the garment is worn) as follows: * Purl 2, knit 2,*, work from *-* to end of round. Continue this rib for 7-8 cm.
Insert 1 marker thread; the piece is now measured from here.
Insert 4 markers as described below – without working the stitches. The markers are placed between stitches and are used when increasing for saddle shoulders.
Marker 1 is inserted at the beginning of the round, count 42-42 stitches (= back piece), insert marker 2 before the next stitch, count 22-26 stitches (= shoulder), insert marker 3 before the next stitch, count 42-42 stitches (= front piece) and insert marker 4 before the next stitch. There are 22-26 stitches left for the shoulder. Allow all 4 markers to follow your work onwards.

SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work the first round as follows: Work A.3a (= 1 stitch), A.4 (= 40 stitches), A.5a (= 1 stitch), continue with rib as before over the next 22-26 stitches, work A.3a (= 1 stitch), A.4 (= 40 stitches), A.5a (= 1 stitch), and continue with rib as before over the remaining 22-26 stitches. There are 136-144 stitches on the needle.
On the next round the increase for saddle shoulders begin, increase 4 stitches on every round as described below (the pattern continues but when A.4 is finished in height; repeat the pattern as before - see A.4b):
Increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 1 and 3 (after the 22-26 ribbed stitches) and increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 2 and 4 (before the 22-26 ribbed stitches) – read INCREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches increased on the round). The number of stitches on the shoulders remains the same, the increased stitches are on the front and back pieces.
Continue the pattern and increase like this EVERY round a total of 25-31 times (a total of 24-28 stitches are also increased in A.3a and A.5a as shown in the diagrams) = 260-296 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase the piece measures approx. 9-11 cm along the shoulders (where the marker thread is).
When there is 1 round left in A.3a and A.5a, work as follows: Work as before as far as marker 2, cast off the 22-26 shoulder-stitches, making sure the cast-off edge is not tight, work to marker 4 and cast off the remaining 22-26 shoulder-stitches. Back and front pieces are finished separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 108-122 stitches. Continue the pattern back and forth as before; i.e. the first row is worked from the right side as follows: Work A.3b over the first 32-39 stitches, continue A.4 as before over the next 44-44 stitches and work A.5b over the remaining 32-39 stitches. Continue back and forth and repeat A.3b, A.4b and A.5b in height until the piece measures approx. 33-35 cm from the shoulder, measuring close to the neck and with the piece flat (28-29 cm from the marker on the neck) – NOTE: adjust so you finish after the last row in A.4.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib from the right side as follows: Work 2 stitches in garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl the next 30-37 stitches, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 10 stitches, purl 4, knit 2, purl 3, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 3, knit 2, purl 4, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 10 stitches, knit over knit and purl over purl the next 30-37 stitches and finish with 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The neck warmer measures approx 36-38 cm from the shoulder, when flat.

FRONT PIECE:
= 108-122 stitches. Work in the same way as the back piece.

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MITTENS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, bottom up.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Cast on 48-48 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 12-13 cm. Then work as follows: * Knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the first 28 stitches, knit 2, work A.6 (= 14 stitches), knit 2 and purl 2. When A.6 has been completed in height there are 52-52 stitches on the needles. Insert a marker on the round. The piece is now measured from this marker.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work as follows: Knit the first 27 stitches and decrease 8-6 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit 3, work A.7 (= 18 stitches) over A.6 and knit 4 = 44-46 stitches on the round. Continue this pattern onwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 1½ cm from the marker, increase for the thumb by increasing 1 stitch on each side of the first stitch on the round – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this on each side of the increased stitches every 2nd round a total of 5-6 times in height = 54-58 stitches.
Place the 11-13 thumb-stitches on a thread. Continue in the round – AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round, cast on 1 stitch over the stitches on the thread = 44-46 stitches.
Continue working until the mitten measures approx. 15-16 cm from the marker – adjust so the next round is not a cable-round in A.7 (i.e. not round 4 or 8).
There is approx. 3 cm left to finished length; try the mitten on and continue to desired length.
Now work A.8 over A.7 – the other stitches are worked as before. When A.8 has been completed in height there are 40-42 stitches on the needles.
Insert 1 marker thread in each side of the mitten, with 20 stitches on the palm and 20-22 stitches on the back. There are 3-4 knitted stitches between the marker threads and A.8.
On the next round decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 3 times, then every round a total of 3 times = 16-18 stitches. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 8-9 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The mitten measures approx. 30-32 cm from the top down. You can turn up the 6-6½ cm of the rib. if you wish

THUMB:
Place the 11-13 thumb-stitches from the thread onto double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and knit up 4-3 stitches around the opening = 15-16 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round for 5-5½ cm. There is now ½ cm left to finished length; try the mitten on and continue to desired length. Knit 1-0, then knit the remaining stitches together 2 and 2 = 8 stitches left. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 4 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

LEFT MITTEN:
Cast on 48-48 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 12-13 cm. Then work as follows: * Knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the first 28 stitches, knit 2, work A.6 (= 14 stitches), knit 2 and purl 2. When A.6 has been completed in height there are 52-52 stitches on the needles. Insert a marker on the round. The piece is now measured from this marker.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work as follows: Knit the first 27 stitches and decrease 8-6 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit 3, work A.7 (= 18 stitches) over A.6 and knit 4 = 44-46 stitches. Continue this pattern onwards.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 1½ cm from the marker, increase for the thumb by increasing 1 stitch on each side of the 19th-21st stitch on the round – remember INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this on each side of the increased stitches every 2nd round a total of 5-6 times = 54-58 stitches.
Place the 11-13 thumb-stitches on a thread. Continue in the round –
AT THE SAME TIME on the first round cast on 1 stitch over the stitches on the thread = 44-46 stitches.
The rest of the mitten is worked in the same way as the right mitten.
Work the thumb in the same way as the right thumb.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 14.10.2020
Correction:
Diagram and text to A.4b updated.

Updated online: 04.11.2020
Correction: Symbol and symbol explanation added: "this square has no stitch; go straight to next symbol in diagram"

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= this square has no stitch; go straight to next symbol in diagram
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole
	= purl 2 together
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

We have 5 version/s of this pattern in the #dropsfan gallery. Have you made it too?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #coolcablesset or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

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Ann Duke, United States

Cool Cables Set

Yuliya, Russian Federation

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julysnow, Russian Federation

Cool Cables Set

Daniela, Slovakia

Cool Cables

Daniela, Slovakia

Cool Cables

Ann Duke, United States

Cool Cables Set

Yuliya, Russian Federation

Cool Cables Hat

julysnow, Russian Federation

Cool Cables Set

Daniela, Slovakia

Cool Cables

Daniela, Slovakia

Comments / Questions (35)

Jean wrote:

I have made the hat, and mitts. I am now on the neck warmer. I realize that you read the graft from right to left but is the first stitch your increase stitch on the right hand side of A3b . On graft A5a your increase stitch would be the last stitch. Is this correct

12.03.2024 - 23:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Jean, Yes, all charts are read from right to left and bottom up from the right side and from left to right on the wrong side, when working back and forth. The increase (yarn over) is after the first stitch on A.3a and before the last stitch on A.5a, so the 2nd stitch and next-to-last stitch respectively. Happy knitting!

13.03.2024 - 06:34

Sarah wrote:

Hi, I am working on the neckwarmer and have worked the A4 chart once -but only up to where it shows A4b ends, so 18 rows of the chart. Do I now work the rows 19 and 20, or do I repeat A4b? \r\nAlso I do not understand in the instructions \'continue the pattern and increase like this every round a total of 25-31 times\' does this mean do up to row 25 to 31 on charts A3, A4 and A5?

24.02.2024 - 20:54

My wrote:

Hej, jag håller på att sticka halsvärmaren och har nu kommit till slutet av diagram A4b, som jag förstår det ska jag bara fortsätta med A4b men får då inte ihop sicksack flätorna. Det saknas rutor på två rader i slutet och jag antar att det ska vara ett flät varv på det första varvet av dem två, men om jag gör på detta sätt och fortsätter med A4b blir det bara ett varv mellan sista flätan och första i A4b och det stämmer ju inte. Vad är det jag missar?

21.02.2024 - 01:31

Hej My, jo du fortsætter bare sicksack flätorna i varje sida på var 4:e varv som du har gjort hela tiden :)

23.02.2024 - 13:13

Aaa wrote:

Synes dere burde laget nytt mønsterdiagram etter a4. Skjønte til slutt at flettene skal fortsatt gjentas etter 3omg samtidig som mønsteret i midten følges. Men ser for meg at dette kan være forvirrende for både nybegynnere og andre strikkere. I det minste ha en bedre forklaring enn ‘se a4b’, det gir ingen mening!

09.01.2024 - 10:48

Chhavi Methi wrote:

I have a couple of more questions What is A4 b or A3b, or A5b? and can i continue the shoulders and bring it to the same length , i can keep it attached or even work separately? thanks

14.12.2023 - 08:07

Dear Mrs Methi, the -b section of the diagrams are written on the right side or on the left side of diagrams, they are the last rows to repeat; in A.4b you will repeat the last rows for cables as shown and at the same time the whole lace pattern (as they are worked over a different number of stitches). Happy knitting!

14.12.2023 - 08:45

Work A.3a (= 1 stitch), A.4 (= 40 stitches), A.5a (= 1 stitch), continue with rib as before over the next 22-26 stitches, work A.3a (= 1 stitch), A.4 (= 40 stitches), A.5a (= 1 stitch), and continue with rib as before over the remaining 22-26 stitches. There are 136-144 stitches on the needle. i am not sure how to increae

08.12.2023 - 13:40

Dear Chhavi, in the first round of chart A.4 you increase 4 stitches. Since there are 2 repeats of A.4 on the round, you will have 8 increases in the first round of the charts. So you will go from: 128 to 136 or from 136 to 144, depending on the size you are working. Happy knitting!

10.12.2023 - 22:44

Liesbeth wrote:

Dankjewel! Ik vind het zo’n fijne service dat jullie vragen beantwoorden!

29.01.2023 - 20:00

U kunt mijn vorige vraag buiten beschouwing laten. Eigenlijk is mijn vraag: moet je A3 en A5 van rechts naar links breien?

26.01.2023 - 20:36

Dag Liesbeth,

Je leest de patronen van rechts naar links en van onder naar boven. Dus je begint met de steek rechts onderaan het telpatroon. Als je terug breit op de verkeerde kant lees je het patroon dus ook weer terug van links naar rechts. Dit geldt voor alle telpatronen.

29.01.2023 - 18:40

Dankjewel voor de snelle en duidelijke reactie! Alleen de laatste zin snep ik niet. Wat bedoelt u met ´je breit de steken zover mogelijk door in patroon? Ik ben nu bij ongeveer de zesde naald van de schouderzadel.. Ik heb dus al 4 gemeerderde steken direct na de eerste markeerder. Ik meerder er daar nu weer een en brei dan 4 averecht en 3 recht. Klopt dat? De averechte steken zitten dus niet recht boven elkaar?

26.01.2023 - 07:08

Halswarmer: bij het steken meerderen voor en na de markeerders, moet dat dan direct coor/ na de markeerder? In dat geval komen de vier averechtse steken niet netjes boven elkaar. Of moet ik eerst de averechtse steken van A3 breien en meteen naarna meerderen zodat de gemeerderde steek in het recht gebreide gedeelte komt?

25.01.2023 - 19:15

Je meerdert NA markeerdraden 1 en 3 en VOOR markeerdraden 2 en 4. Je meerdert dus niet op de boordsteek, maar er steeds voor of na. Je meerdert inderdaad direct naast de markeerdraad. Je breit de steken zo ver mogelijk door in patroon.

25.01.2023 - 21:42

Cool Cables Set

Knitted hat, neck warmer with saddle shoulder and mittens in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The whole set is worked with cables and ribbed edging.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

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How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Cool Cables Set

Knitted hat, neck warmer with saddle shoulder and mittens in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The whole set is worked with cables and ribbed edging.

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	DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 100% Wool	3.50 £ /50g	Order
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	DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 100% Wool 3.50 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 100% Wool 3.50 £ /50g Order