DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar
DROPS 214-26

#catchingamermaidset

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-291
Yarn group C or A + A
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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
S/M - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 – 58/60 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100 g colour 10, fog
100-100 g colour 17, denim blue

HAT:

SIZES:
S/M - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50-50 g colour 10, fog
50-50 g colour 17, denim blue

KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 36 rows in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

NECK WARMER:

SIZES:
S/M - L/XL
Measures approx.: Circumference: 55-60 cm. Height: 18-22 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50-50 g colour 10, fog
50-50 g colour 17, denim blue

KNITTING TENSION:
12 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: Length 60 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
Hat: See diagrams A.1 to A.3.
Neck warmer: See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 99-108 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and fog. Work pattern in the round as follows: * Knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* to end of round = 66-72 stitches. Now work A.1 over all stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 4-5 cm, continue with 2-coloured English rib and pattern as shown in A.2. When A.2 has been completed in height, repeat the whole diagram 1 more time in height, then the first 10 rows 1 more time. The piece measures approx. 18-19 cm. Work A.3 over A.2. When A.3 has been completed in height there are 22-24 stitches left on the round. Knit all stitches together, 2 and 2 = 11-12 stitches. Cut the strand and thread it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 24-25 cm from the top down.

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NECK WARMER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle.

NECK WARMER:
Cast on 99-108 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm and fog. Work pattern in the round as follows: * Knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* to end of round = 66-72 stitches. Insert a marker at the beginning of the round. Work A.1 over all stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 4-5 cm, work 2-coloured English rib and pattern as shown in A.2 over all stitches. When A.2 has been completed in height work the first 2 rows in the diagram until the neck warmer measures 18-22 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl; to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 26.05.2021
Correction: For the set 100-100 g in each colour is needed.

Diagram

symbols = make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl
symbols = purl together the yarn over and slipped stitch
symbols = knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch
symbols = decrease 2 stitches as follows: Knit together the next 3 stitches (+ their respective yarn overs) (= 2 stitches decreased).
symbols = increase 2 stitches in the knitted stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit together the stitch and yarn over, but do not slip them from the left needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit together the same stitch and the yarn over 1 more time, then slip them from the left needle (= 2 stitches increased). The new stitches are then worked in English rib, but be aware that on the first round after increasing, the purled stitches in the increase are purled without yarn overs (as no yarn overs have been made).
symbols = this round is worked with fog
symbols = this round is worked with denim blue
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 214-26

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Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Giovanna wrote:

Buonasera, sto provando a fare il cappello. Mi dice di avviare 99 maglie e di lavorarle Lavorare il motivo in tondo come segue: * 2 maglie insieme a diritto, 1 gettato, passare 1 maglia a rovescio senza lavorarla *, lavorare *-* fino alla fine del giro = 66-72 maglie. Ma alla fine del ferro ii ho sempre 99 maglie e non 72. Cosa sbaglio?

06.12.2024 - 20:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Giovanna, nella lavorazione a coste inglesi i gettati non vengono contati come maglie. Buon lavoro!

07.12.2024 - 18:55

country flag Giovanna wrote:

Buonasera, sto provando a fare il cappello. Mi dice di avviare 99 maglie e di lavorarle Lavorare il motivo in tondo come segue: * 2 maglie insieme a diritto, 1 gettato, passare 1 maglia a rovescio senza lavorarla *, lavorare *-* fino alla fine del giro = 66-72 maglie. Ma alla fine del ferro ii ho sempre 99 maglie e non 72. Cosa sbaglio?

29.11.2024 - 17:00

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Giovanna, i gettati nella lavorazione a coste inglesi non sono inclusi nel conteggio delle maglie. Buon lavoro!

07.12.2024 - 18:55

country flag Doris wrote:

Ich verstehe nicht, wie die angegebene Maschenprobe stimmen kann. 36 Reihen von Drops Air mit der Nadel 5 sollen 10 cm Höhe ergeben. Bei Garngruppe C! Bei der Anleitung für denn Pullover Merry Santas dagegen sollen bei gleicher Wolle und gleicher Nadelstärke 22 Reihen 10 cm ergeben. Das kann ich eher glauben…

18.11.2024 - 22:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Doris, beachten Sie, daß die Maschenprobe in Patentmuster und nicht Glattrechts gestrickt ist, dh für Patentmuster braucht man mehr Reihen als fürs Glattrechts; Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

19.11.2024 - 08:10

country flag PJ wrote:

Great, thanks. I'm now getting it (I think) but I'm now getting into issues working A1. I'll have another go but I suspect this may just be too advanced for me.

18.12.2023 - 10:43

country flag PJ wrote:

Like Aruna, I am not understanding the initial decrease. For each set of 3 stitches on the left needle, I am knitting 2 together, making 1 yarn yarn over stitch, and slipping 1 stitch. So continue to have 3 stitches. Pattern suggest this should be a decrease. Your response to Aruna was to 'knitting 2 sts together, YO, slip 1 as if to P' which is the same, i.e., no decrease. How are you making the 'yarn overs belong to the slipped stitch'?

17.12.2023 - 13:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear PJ, for the English rib pattern you work 1 stitch with a yarn over. This yarn over is not counted as a stitch, as it is not considered technically an increase. This yarn over will be worked together with a slipped stitch a few rows afterwards. In the pattern stitch counts, the yarn overs in the English rib are therefore not included so, since you have 1 decrease, it will be considered as having decreased 1 stitch. You can read more on the English rib here: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=67&cid=19. Happy knitting!

17.12.2023 - 19:47

country flag Daniela wrote:

Buongiorno. Per eseguire il cappello dite di seguire il diagramma A1 e A3, ma poi nella descrizione parlate del diagramma A1 e A2! Inoltre cosa significa “ eseguire il diagramma A3 su A2” ?? Grazie

23.09.2023 - 21:21

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Daniela, nelle indicazioni all'inizio del modello è riportato che per il cappello si devono seguire i diagrammi A.1-A.3, quindi dal diagramma A.1 al diagramma A.3; una volta finito il diagramma A.2 si prosegue con A.3 sulle maglie lavorate in A.2. Buon lavoro!

25.09.2023 - 23:08

country flag Jenni wrote:

Jeg sliter med råd 9 på A.2: " strikk de neste 3 maskene rett sammen (og kastene some hører til maskene". Om det skal felles 2 masker, strikkes det totalt 3 masker sammen? Er det ikke flere om de kastene som hører til også strikkes sammen?

23.08.2023 - 21:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jenni. Om du ser på raden under 1. diagramikon på 9.rad, så ble det strikket slik: lag 1 kast om pinnen, ta 1 maske løs av pinnen som om den skulle strikkes vrang, strikk kastet og den løse masken vrang sammen og lag 1 kast om pinnen, ta 1 maske løs av pinnen som om den skulle strikkes vrang = 3 masker + 2 kast. Når du da skal strikket 1. diagramikon på 9.rad strikkes det slik: 1 maske + kast + 1 maske vrang + 1 maske + 1kast RETT SAMMEN = 2 masker felt. Er usikker på hva du mener med: " Er det ikke flere om de kastene som hører til også strikkes sammen". mvh DROPS Design

28.08.2023 - 13:14

country flag Fransje wrote:

Wenn ich die Maschenprobe für die Mütze vergleiche mit den Anzahl der Maschen die ich für die Mütze aufsetzen muss, komme ich auf einem Kopfumfang der Mütze von ungefähr 70 cm ( 99:14x10 ). Ist das nicht viel zu weit für eine Kopfumfang von 54/56 cm? Oder mache ich da einen Denkfehler.

04.02.2023 - 14:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Fransje, die Mütze beginnt man mit 99 Maschen aber bei der 1. Runde wird man abnehmen: * 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken, 1 Umschlag arbeiten, 1 Masche wie zum Linksstricken abheben *, von *-* in der ganzen Runde wiederholen = 66 Maschen - so ist es nur noch ca 47 cm (Muster ist aber elastisch genug um einen Kopf von 54/56 cm zu passen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.02.2023 - 15:24

country flag Irene Motti wrote:

Vielen Dank für dieses hübsche Muster, das sich viel leichter stricken lässt, als man vermutet. Die Mütze sieht so hübsch aus, dass ich direkt eine zweite stricken werde. ;-) Dabei frage ich mich erneut, warum ich nach der Maschenaufnahme direkt 1/3 der Maschen wieder abnehme. Ist es, damit die erste Reihe nicht zu eng ist? Das löse ich eigentlich immer, in dem ich die Maschen auf einer größeren Nadel aufnehme. Dank vorab!

21.05.2022 - 21:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Motti, bei dem Bündchen braucht man mehr Maschen in der Breite als wenn man das Patentmuster strickt, deshalbt schlägt man mehr Maschen und dann wird 1/3 der Maschen abgenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.05.2022 - 08:06

country flag Audrée wrote:

Hello! I made several attempts at this pretty neck warmer(set up row)but to no avail. It says: work patt in the round but there is no mention of joining the stitches. I tried both ways, by joining or as if working with straight needles but the problem starts when knitting A1. The working yarn is at the front on the right needle, before the last slipped stitch so how to do a yarn over as specified in the first square? For the set up row, the yarn stays at the front before K2 together? Thanks!

25.01.2022 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Audree, the neckwarmer is worked in the round, this means after you have cast on the stitches you have to join and work in the round as explained on 1st round, then work A.1 over all stitches (in the round, read all rows from the right towards the left). When working the 1st round, work *K2 tog, place yarn at the front, slip 1 as if to P*, when working the next K2 tog, the yarn will automatically "cover" the slipped stitch. See the video to English Rib in the round with 2 colours. Happy knitting!

26.01.2022 - 08:57