DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
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DROPS Buttons
Marbled No. 629

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50£.

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Branching Out Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Big Merino. The piece is worked top down with English rib and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 216-14

#branchingoutjacket

DROPS Design: Pattern no mb-061
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-650-700-750-800-900 g colour 19, beige

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
13 stitches in width and 36 rows in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 80 cm for stocking stitch/English rib.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 629: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2).
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 99 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 18 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 10) = 8.1.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sizes S-M-L-XL):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. Increase like this at all markers (= 8 stitches increased). On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
Tighten the strand slightly when working the bands, so they are not so loose.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 5 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and work the last 3 stitches as before. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 1 cm. Then work the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8½-9-9½-8-8½-9 cm between each one.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.
The neck is folded double and sewn down to finish.

NECK:
Cast on 99-103-107-111-115-121 stitches (including 9 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm and Big Merino.
Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side:
1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 6 cm – adjust so the next row is from the right side.
The 9 band stitches on each side of the piece are continued in rib and garter stitch to finished length. The other stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
On row 1 after the neck increase 10-18-26-10-18-24 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 109-121-133-121-133-145 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Work 2 rows stocking stitch and rib over the bands as before. Work BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side:
Work the 9 band stitches as before – read KNITTING TIP, * 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit 2 together *, work from *-* until there are 10 stitches left, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl and work the 9 band stitches as before = 79-87-95-87-95-103 stitches.
Now work pattern as follows (row 1 = right side):
Work the 9 band stitches as before, * A.1 over the next 6 stitches, A.2 over the next 2 stitches *, work from *-* until there are 14 stitches left (=7-8-9-8-9-10 times), A.1 over the next 5 stitches (i.e. 2 times in width, then the first stitch in A.1) and finish with 9 band stitches as before.
Continue back and forth like this. When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, repeat the last 2 rows.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height there are 135-151-167-183-203-223 stitches on the needle.
The piece measures approx. 7-7-7-9-9-9 cm from the marker after the neck. If the piece measures less than this, repeat the last 2 rows in the diagrams to the correct length.
On the next row from the wrong side work as follows:
Work the 9 band stitches as before, purl the stitches on the yoke at the same time as you purl together the yarn overs with their respective stitches and work the 9 band stitches as before.
Work 1 row of stocking stitch with the 9 band stitches on each side as before.
The next row from the wrong side is worked as follows:
Work the 9 band stitches as before, * 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 10 stitches left, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl and work the 9 band stitches as before.
Now work pattern as follows (row 1 = right side):
Work 9 band stitches as before, * A.1 over the next 2 stitches, A.2 over the next 2 stitches, A.1 over the next 12-12-12-16-16-16 stitches *, work from *-* until there are 14 stitches left (= 7-8-9-8-9-10 times), A.1 over the next 2 stitches, A.2 over the next 2 stitches, work the first stitch in A.1 and finish with 9 band stitches as before.
Continue back and forth like this. When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, repeat the last 2 rows. When A.2 has been completed in height there are 199-223-247-291-323-355 stitches on the needle.
The piece measures 14-14-14-18-18-18 cm. If the piece measures less than this, repeat the last 2 rows in the diagrams to the correct length.
On the next row from the wrong side work as follows:
Work the 9 band stitches as before, purl the stitches on the yoke at the same time as you purl together the yarn overs with their respective stitches, work the 9 band stitches as before.
Continue with stocking stitch and 9 band stitches on each side as before.
On the next row from the right side increase 13 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase on the bands) = 212-236-260-304-336-368 stitches.
In sizes XXL-XXXL the increases are finished. The other sizes continue as follows:

SIZES S-M-L-XL:
Insert 4 markers on the next row as follows:
Work the 9 band stitches as before, 29-32-36-42 stitches in stocking stitch, insert 1 marker, 38-44-48-58 stitches in stocking stitch, insert 1 marker, 59-65-73-85 stitches in stocking stitch, insert 1 marker, 38-44-48-58 stitches in stocking stitch, insert 1 marker, 30-33-37-43 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 9 band stitches as before.
On the next row from the right side, increase 1 stitch on each side of all the markers – read INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this on every row from the right side a total of 4-3-2-1 times = 244-260-276-312 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
= 244-260-276-312-336-368 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and the 9 band stitches on each side as before.
When the piece measures 19-21-22-24-26-26 cm from the marker on the neck, divide the yoke for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work 9 band stitches as before, 33-35-38-43-48-54 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), place the 46-50-52-60-62-66 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 67-71-77-87-98-110 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece), place the 46-50-52-60-62-66 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 34-36-39-44-48-54 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 9 band stitches as before (= front piece).

BODY:
= 168-176-188-208-228-252 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and the 9 band stitches on each side as before until the piece measures 26-26-27-27-27-29 cm from the division.
On the next row from the right side increase 27 stitches evenly spaced = 195-203-215-235-255-279 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib, starting from the wrong side as follows:
1 stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 46-50-52-60-62-66 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-58-60-68-70-74 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches under the sleeve. Work stocking stitch in the round
When the sleeve measures 3 cm from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 3-3-3-2-2-1½ cm a total of 9-10-10-13-13-15 times = 36-38-40-42-44-44 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 39-37-37-35-33-34 cm, increase 6 stitches evenly spaced = 42-44-46-48-50-50 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm.
The sleeve measures 45-43-43-41-39-40 cm from the division. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling down, it is important that the seam is elastic. Sew the ends of the neck together with small stitches.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 17.09.2020
Correction: Diagram A.1 and A.2 is updated.

Diagram

	= 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl
	= knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch
	= work 5 stitches in the knitted stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit the yarn over and knitted stitch together, but do not slip them from the left needle, * make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit together the yarn over and knitted stitch again, without slipping them from the left needle , work from -* a total of 2 times, then slip them from the left needle = 5 stitches.
	= knit from wrong side

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #branchingoutjacket or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (8)

Elly wrote:

Goedemorgen, fijn dat ik al zo snel antwoord heb gekregen op mijn vraag van gidteren over het vest patroon 216.14. Ik begrijp dat het de - steek volgens het telpatroon op de verkeerde kant rechts gebreid moet worden. Op het filmpje is te zien ( paars met aubergine kleuren, rond de 2 minuten speeltijd) dat alle steken op de verkeerde kant averecht gebreid worden. Is dit misschien niet het goede filmpje bij het patroon? Vriendelijke groet elly

27.10.2022 - 10:38

Johanna wrote:

Leider ist diese Naleitung unnötig kompliziert geraten. Selbst für erfahrene Strickerinnen ist es sehr schwierig, bei all den Diagrammen den Überblick zu behalten UND noch zusätzlich Blende und Knopflöcher korrekt zu stricken. Ich bin sicher, dass man das auch anders hätte beschreiben können. So macht es jedenfalls keinen Spaß. Für Anfängerinnen absolut ungeeignet. Schade! Bin von garnstudio besseres gewohnt.

26.03.2022 - 17:02

Fernanda Valerio wrote:

Is this really colour beige? It doesn’t seem to match the colour palette of big merino

17.02.2022 - 20:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Valerio, yes colour is the right one, but maybe light was different as pictures where taken. Should you need any help choosing the colour, please contact your DROPS store, they will help you, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

18.02.2022 - 08:00

Mayvor Fransson wrote:

Skall sticka en väst Drops Big Merino. Vad hittar jag mönster?

06.04.2021 - 07:29

Hej Mayvor, Här hittar du Västar Du ser stickfastheten under varje bild, de med 17 m kan du använda till DROPS Big Merino :)

06.04.2021 - 12:12

Katrien Willaert wrote:

Kan het Branching Out Jacket, 216-14 ook op rechte naalden worden gebreid? Ik heb ook problemen om het telpatroon te starten.

24.11.2020 - 12:04

Dag Katrien,

De ronde pas moet in één keer gebreid worden. Op dat moment heb je heel veel steken op de naald, vandaar dat hij met een rondbreinaald gebreid wordt. Het telpatroon begint onderaan en je leest het van rechts naar links en van onder naar boven. Bij veel gestelde vragen kun je ook antwoorden vinden op hoe je telpatronen leest.

24.11.2020 - 13:20

Sussi Petersen wrote:

Når jeg skal tage ud i diagrammet ved at strikke flere gange i samme maske skal jeg ende op med 5 masker. Skal omslag tælles med i dette tilfælde? På videoen er det vist som om jeg skal tælle omslaget med. =3r og 2 omslag Mvh Sussi

24.09.2020 - 12:40

Hej Sussi, ja du tager ud ifølge diagramteksten og omslagene skal tælles med her :)

24.09.2020 - 16:00

I afsnittet Bærestykke Første afsnit, 11. linje citat start "...som før = 79-87- 95-..." citat slut. Hvorfor står der disse maskeantal? I str. M starter jeg bærestykket med 121 m, der står intet i Første afsnits 1. til 11. linje om, at der nu skulle være færre m. Jeg mener at jeg bør have 121 m efter første afsnit. Er det korrekt og i så fald hvad skal jeg med de 87 m. Mvh. Sussi

23.09.2020 - 15:51

Hej Sussi. I de "79-87-95-87-95-103 masker" är inte omslagen inräknade. Fortsätt bara enligt oppskriften så blir det riktigt. Mvh DROPS Design

24.09.2020 - 11:28

Alessia wrote:

Buongiorno, credo che la spiegazione del diagramma non sia corretta. Riuscite a verificare ed in caso correggere? Grazie!

16.09.2020 - 13:51

Buongiorno Alessia. Abbiamo segnalato l'errore al settore design. La ringraziamo per la segnalazione. Buon lavoro!

16.09.2020 - 14:14

Branching Out Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Big Merino. The piece is worked top down with English rib and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

English rib – an overview

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 216-14

Comments / Questions (8)

Branching Out Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Big Merino. The piece is worked top down with English rib and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?

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	DROPS Big Merino mix 100% Wool	3.50 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Big Merino uni colour 100% Wool	3.50 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Big Merino mix 100% Wool 3.50 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Big Merino uni colour 100% Wool 3.50 £ /50g Order