DROPS Baby / 33 / 9

Baby Legolas by DROPS Design

Knitted balaclava for babies in DROPS Baby Merino. Sizes Premature – 2 years.

  • Baby Legolas / DROPS Baby 33-9 - Knitted balaclava for babies in DROPS Baby Merino. Sizes Premature – 2 years.
  • Baby Legolas / DROPS Baby 33-9 - Knitted balaclava for babies in DROPS Baby Merino. Sizes Premature – 2 years.
  • Baby Legolas / DROPS Baby 33-9 - Knitted balaclava for babies in DROPS Baby Merino. Sizes Premature – 2 years.
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-103-by
Yarn group A

SIZES: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
The size is equivalent to the baby’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
Fits head size: (28/32) 34/38 - 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50) cm

DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 10, light turquoise

24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.10£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (for mid back):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 twisted together /purl 2 twisted together (according to the rib), knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), knit 2 together/purl 2 together (according to the rib) = 2 stitches decreased.

Increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the purled section by making 1 yarn over; on the next round purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.
The next increase is at the end of the purled section. Continue to increase alternately at the beginning and end of each purled section.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 60 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 7.5. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 7th and 8th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.




The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from top of head and down to the neck, then in the round with double pointed needles / short circular needle. An edge is worked around the opening to finish.

Cast on 84-84-84-92-92-100 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3 mm and Baby Merino. Work 1 RIDGE – read description above. Work 2 rows stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the row so there are 42-42-42-46-46-50 stitches on each side (= mid-back).
Continue this rib back and forth. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 1-1-1-2-2-2 cm decrease 2 stitches mid-back – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 16 times = 52-52-52-60-60-68 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm.
At the end of the next row from the right side cast on 4-4-4-4-8-8 new stitches (= mid front, under the chin) = 56-56-56-64-68-76 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the piece to measure from.
Put the piece together on circular needle and work rib in the round over all stitches (= knit 2 / purl 2– the rib should match neatly all the way round).
When the piece measures 2-2½-2½-2½-3-3 cm from the new marker increase all purl 2 to purl 3– read INCREASE TIP-1 = 14-14-14-16-17-19 increased stitches. Increase like this every 2 cm a total of 2-2-2-2-3-3 times = 84-84-84-96-119-133 stitches. When the piece measures 8-9-9-10-11-11 cm from the new marker cast off loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Sew the balaclava together at the top, sewing in the outermost loop of the cast-on edge so the seam is flat.

Knit up approx. 52 to 84 stitches around the opening at the front; i.e. around the face (use a crochet hook when knitting up stitches so there is a neat pick-up edge). Divide the stitches onto double pointed needles. Knit 1 round where you increase 60-68-72-80-88-92 stitches evenly spaced – NOTE: Do not increase over the middle 6-6-6-6-10-10 stitches under the chin – read INCREASE TIP-2. Purl 1 round and knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) in the round until the edge measures approx. 4-4½-4½-5-5-5½ cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, make 1 yarn over after each 8th stitch at the same time as casting off (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches).

Fold the rib around the opening double to the wrong side and sew down neatly with small stitches.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 33-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (5)

country flag Gamby 19.02.2021 - 23:38:

Bonsoir,est il possible de réaliser le cagoule avec des aiguilles droite si oui pourrais-je avoir les explications merci beaucoup

user icon DROPS Design 22.02.2021 kl. 07:35:

Bonjour Mme Gamby, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, mais cette leçon pourra probablement vous aider. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!

country flag Angela Rodrigues 04.02.2021 - 06:34:

Guten Morgen, ich habe Schwierigkeiten bei der Abnahme: Vor der Abnahme sah es so aus: Markierung Mitte, d.h. rechts davor 1 rechts, 2 links, 2 rechts, links davor 1 rechts, 2 links, 2 rechts. Nach der ersten Abnahme lt. Anleitung sieht es so aus: Markierung Mitte, rechts davor 1 rechts, 1 links, 2 rechts, links davor 1 rechts, 1 links, 2 rechts. Wie geht es bei der zweiten Abnahme weiter?

user icon DROPS Design 04.02.2021 kl. 09:43:

Liebe Frau Rodrigues, es wird immer wie beim ABNAHMETIPP abgenommen, dh beidseitig von den 2 Maschen rechts mit der Markierung dazwischen. Wenn Die Maschen davor/danach rechte Maschen sind, dann stricken Sie die Maschen links zusammen, wenn diese Maschen rechte Maschen sind, dann stricken Sie diese Maschen rechts zusammen. Bei der Reihe nach der Abnahmen stricken Sie li über li und re über re. Kann es Ihnen weiterhelfen? Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Brigitte PAUL 10.11.2020 - 15:50:

Bonjour. Pour les diminutions lorsqu'on a 1 maille endroit et 1 maille envers (2ème rang de diminution par exemple) doit-il prendre les 2 mailles torse à l'endroit ou torse à l'envers ?

user icon DROPS Design 10.11.2020 kl. 16:47:

Bonjour Mme Paul, tricotez les diminutions pour continuer les côtes 2 m end/2 m env dans la mesure du possible (et des diminutions). Bon tricot!

country flag Anne-Marie 17.09.2020 - 21:38:

Ik ben nu bij de minderingen op 2cm. Op de goede kant heb ik de steken aan weerszijden van de twee middelste averecht samen gebreid (dus gedraaid averechts voor en averechts na). Maar nu weet ik of ik deze geminderde steken nu op de volgende naald recht (zoals ze zouden zijn als ze nog apart waren) of averechts moet breien. Ook weet ik niet zeker of ik bij de volgende mindering recht of averecht moet minderen.

user icon DROPS Design 20.11.2020 kl. 11:26:

Dag Anne-Marie,

Op de verkeerde kant brei je de steken zoals ze zicht voordoen, dus rechte steken brei je recht en averechte steken brei je averecht. Probeer bij het minderen midden achter het patroon zoveel mogelijk door te laten lopen in de lijn midden achter.

country flag TOrill OWren 04.09.2020 - 09:29:

Strikker stort sett hver dag året rundt,det har vedvart i ca 65 år til opplysning passerte 70 i fjor.Gleden er like stor i dag❤️

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 33-9

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.