DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.75€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 33-9
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-103-by
Yarn group A
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SIZES: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
The size is equivalent to the baby’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
Fits head size: (28/32) 34/38 - 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50) cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour 10, light turquoise

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Baby Baby Balaclavashood rib
DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.75€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (for mid back):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 twisted together /purl 2 twisted together (according to the rib), knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), knit 2 together/purl 2 together (according to the rib) = 2 stitches decreased.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the purled section by making 1 yarn over; on the next round purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.
The next increase is at the end of the purled section. Continue to increase alternately at the beginning and end of each purled section.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 60 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 7.5. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 7th and 8th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.


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START THE PIECE HERE:

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BALACLAVA – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from top of head and down to the neck, then in the round with double pointed needles / short circular needle. An edge is worked around the opening to finish.

Cast on 84-84-92-92-100-100 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3 mm and Baby Merino. Work 1 RIDGE – read description above. Work 2 rows stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the row so there are 42-42-46-46-50-50 stitches on each side (= mid-back).
Continue this rib back and forth. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 1-1-1-2-2-2 cm decrease 2 stitches mid-back – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 16 times = 52-52-60-60-68-68 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm.
At the end of the next row from the right side cast on 4-4-4-8-8-8 new stitches (= mid front, under the chin) = 56-56-64-68-76-76 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the piece to measure from.
Put the piece together on circular needle and work rib in the round over all stitches (= knit 2 / purl 2– the rib should match neatly all the way round).
When the piece measures 2-2½-2½-2½-3-3 cm from the new marker increase all purl 2 to purl 3– read INCREASE TIP-1 = 14-14-16-17-19-19 increased stitches. Increase like this every 2 cm a total of 2-2-2-2-3-3 times = 84-84-96-102-133-133 stitches. When the piece measures 8-9-9-10-11-11 cm from the new marker cast off loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the balaclava together at the top, sewing in the outermost loop of the cast-on edge so the seam is flat.

EDGE AROUND FRONT OPENING:
Knit up approx. 52 to 84 stitches around the opening at the front; i.e. around the face (use a crochet hook when knitting up stitches so there is a neat pick-up edge). Divide the stitches onto double pointed needles. Knit 1 round where you increase evenly to 60-68-72-80-88-92 stitches – NOTE: Do not increase over the middle 6-6-6-6-10-10 stitches under the chin – read INCREASE TIP-2. Purl 1 round and knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) in the round until the edge measures approx. 4-4½-4½-5-5-5½ cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, make 1 yarn over after each 8th stitch at the same time as casting off (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches).

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the rib around the opening double to the wrong side and sew down neatly with small stitches.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 19.01.2022
EDGE AROUND FRONT OPENING:... Knit 1 round where you increase evenly to 60-68-72-80-88-92 stitches ..
Updated online: 03.05.2022
Correction yarn amount 4th size + Corrections different numbers under BALACLAVA.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Petra wrote:

Guten Tag, ich habe das gleiche Unverständnis, wie schon mehrfach gefragt wurde. Und zwar geht es um den Abnahmetipp. Bei der ersten Abnahme drei Maschen vor der Mitte passt es ja noch ... aber bei der zweiten Abnahme habe ich drei Maschen vor der Mitte jeweils eine rechte und eine linke. Man soll aber immer dem Rippmuster entsprechend abnehmen. Irgend etwas passt da nicht. Und den Abnahmetipp habe ich gelegen ... Lieben Dank für eine hilfreiche Antwort :-)

23.01.2024 - 13:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, bis alle Abnahmen fertig sind, wird das Rippenmuster in der hintere Mitte nicht immer passen, die Maschen stricken Sie einfach wie sie erscheinen, nach allen Abnahmen passt das Rippenmuster wieder. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.01.2024 - 08:03

country flag Lidia wrote:

Under Needles it states: «NEEDLES: DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 1,5. » Shouldn’t it say 3 MM = 2.5 MM or should it be 2.5 MM which equals US 1.5? Are you using a smaller needle than the circular needle or the same size?

22.01.2024 - 01:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Lidia, 3 mm needles (metric size) are 2.5 US size. Happy crafting!

22.01.2024 - 06:50

country flag Marlene Franz wrote:

Wenn ich bei der Hinreihe zwei Maschen abgenommen habe, kommt in der nächsten Hinreihe nur jeweils eine rechte und linke Masche vor bzw nach dem Markierer. Wie nehme ich nun weiter ab?

28.12.2023 - 17:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Franz, die Abnahmen stricken Sie wie unter ABNAHMETIPP (gilt für die hintere Mitte der Mütze)" erklärt wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.01.2024 - 09:40

country flag Andreea wrote:

Hi! I am knitting the 6-9 months size. I have done the first decrease, worked the next row on the wrong side. Now I have started to work on the right side and arrived at the middle marker. Per Decrease tip for mid back I am at 3 stitches before the marker. Due to the decrease these 3 stitches are now: 1 knit, 1 purl, 1 knit. How should I decrease here? Should I decrease 4 stitches before the marker? That would be 2 knit (decrease here?), 1 purl, 1 knit. Thank you!

20.10.2023 - 19:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Andreea, you decrease the knit1 and purl 1 as knit 2 together. Happy knitting!

23.10.2023 - 00:50

country flag Vibeke wrote:

Er ved at strikke denne uge i 6/9 mdr. Efter indtagninger har jeg 60 masker - så står der i opskrift at jeg skal slå 8 masker op under hagen. Men totalt maskeantal står til 64. Der er altså fejl i tallene. Så hvor mange masker skal jeg have efter indtagninger? hvor mange masker skal jeg slå op under hagen? Hvad er mit maskeantal efter opslag? Hvormange vrang skal jeg tage ud? Hvormange masker slutter mit arbejde med at have??

26.09.2023 - 07:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Vibeke, du har 60 masker og slår 8 masker op så du får 68 masker. Tak for info - det er rettet i opskriften :)

05.10.2023 - 09:37

country flag Gaga wrote:

Wie genau werden die Abnahmen vor und hinter der Markierung gemacht, wenn dann nur eine rechte oder eine linke Masche vorhanden ist? \r\nVielen Dank.

24.09.2023 - 13:38

country flag Pascale wrote:

Merci de votre réponse …mais je reste dubitative…si l’on suit le modèle 6/9 mois, j’arrive à 68m’. Avec un échantillon de 24m/ 10 cm, cela fait donc un peu plus de 28cm….beaucoup trop petit pour une tête de bébé ( 40 à 45/cm à cet âge) Cela m’étonne car j’ai fait de très nombreux modèles Drops et tout va toujours bien.. Pascale Dans l’attente de votre réponse…j’ai déjà fait le montage mais crains vraiment de continuer pour rien! Cordialement

03.09.2023 - 11:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pascale, en Baby Mérino et en côtes, l'ouvrage devrait être suffisamment extensible, mais nous n'avions pas encore eu d'autres retours sur ce modèle, je transmets votre commentaire à nos stylistes, essayez de montrer votre ouvrage à votre magasin (même par mail), peut-être qu'il leur sera plus facile de vous aider en voyant votre ouvrage. Bonne continuation!

04.09.2023 - 08:31

country flag Pascale wrote:

Bonjour Je viens de terminer cette cagoule et suis très déçue…la tête ne passe pas! Effectivement, il y a un tour de cou de 64 m ..alors que pour le modèle Warm Smiles ( que j’ai fait 2 fois et qui est ravissant!) , il y en a 100 par exemple Pouvez-vous m’aider?

01.09.2023 - 08:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pascale, les deux modèles sont différents, ici vous tricotez en côtes pour bien resserrer la partie du cou, pensez à bien tricoter avec la même tension que l'échantillon (quand on tricote en côtes, on peut parfois resserrer davantage) Baby Merino et les côtes vont permettre ensuite de s'étirer pour passer la tête de bébé, puis rester bien autour du cou. Bon tricot!

01.09.2023 - 09:05

country flag Velma wrote:

Your videos is very confusing, I am battling with yarn over purl without creating a hole

13.02.2023 - 20:59

country flag Susa Ne Widmayer wrote:

Ich habe diese Mütze jetzt 2 mal gestrickt und sie ist immer viel zu klein. Irgendwas stimmt mit der Anleitung nicht. Wenn man die Arbeit zur Runde schliesst hat man 56 Maschen auf der Nadel, das ist weniger als bei einer Socke! Wie soll da ein Babykopf mit 40cm durchgehen ?!

13.03.2022 - 08:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ne Widmayer, Mütze ist sehr elastisch, aber Maschenprobe muss auch stimmen. Die Mütze im Foto ist 1 Monat und hat 56 Maschen rund Hals. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.05.2022 - 10:07