DROPS / 215 / 7

Scent of Pine Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on the yoke and on the bottom of the sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Scent of Pine Jacket / DROPS 215-7 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on the yoke and on the bottom of the sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Scent of Pine Jacket / DROPS 215-7 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on the yoke and on the bottom of the sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Scent of Pine Jacket / DROPS 215-7 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on the yoke and on the bottom of the sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Scent of Pine Jacket / DROPS 215-7 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on the yoke and on the bottom of the sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Scent of Pine Jacket / DROPS 215-7 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on the yoke and on the bottom of the sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-895
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-350-400-400-450 g colour 7323, sea fog
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 100, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTONS, Mocha NO 623: 7-7-7-8-8-8 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 111 stitches) divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 37) = 3. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 3rd stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
If there are edge or band stitches on each side, deduct these from the total number of stitches before dividing. Do not increase on bands/edge stitches.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.2). The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
So the jacket is slightly higher at the back of the neck when working the yoke, you can work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert a marker in the middle of the row. Start from the right side with sea fog and knit 14-15-16-16-17-18 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 28-30-32-32-34-36 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 42-45-48-48-51-54 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 56-60-64-64-68-72 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 70-75-80-80-85-90 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 84-90-96-96-102-108 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand, knit to end of row, turn and purl 1 row back (bands worked in garter stitch). Then work YOKE as described in the text.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread).
On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve): 
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the stitch with the marker as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the stitch with the marker, knit 2 together, knit the stitch with the marker, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLE:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then work the other 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes with approx. 7½-8-8-7½-7½-8 cm between each one.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. Parts of the bands are worked separately and sewn on to finish. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 121-125-131-135-139-145 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and sea fog.
Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm, but remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above. Finish the rib after a row from the wrong side. 
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches as before and then place them on a thread or extra needle, cast on 1 new stitch (= edge stitch for the seam), knit 111-115-121-125-129-135 stitches and increase 37-38-40-42-43-45 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1, cast on 1 new stitch (= edge stitch for the seam), and place the last 5 band stitches on 1 thread or extra needle = 150-155-163-169-174-182 stitches on the needle.
(The bands are finished later and then sewn onto the front pieces).
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (the yarn overs are purled twisted and the edge stitches are worked in garter stitch). Insert 1 marker after the edge stitch at the beginning of the row; the yoke will be measured from this marker!
You can work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation, go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Read the whole section before starting! Work stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side towards mid front and using sea fog.
When the piece measures 1½-2-2-3-3-3 cm from the marker on the neck, increase 49-52-54-56-57-59 stitches evenly spaced = 199-207-217-225-231-241 stitches.
When the piece measures 2-3-3-4-4-5 cm from the marker on the neck start the pattern on the next row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 2 stitches left on the row (the 14 stitches do not fit until after increasing on the row with arrow-1 (S, M, and L) and arrow-2 (XL, XXL and XXXL), work the first stitch in A.1 so the pattern is the same on both front pieces and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Read KNITTING TIP and continue this pattern (when A.1 is finished in height, work A.2 in the same way).
AT THE SAME TIME on each row marked with an arrow in A.1 and A.2 increase as described below – remember INCREASE TIP-1!

S, M and L:
Arrow-1: Increase 42-48-52 stitches evenly spaced = 241-255-269 stitches (there is now room for 17-18-19 repeats of A.1 with 14 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 50-48-58 stitches evenly spaced = 291-303-327 stitches (there is now room for 24-25-27 repeats of A.1 with 12 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 36-40-48 stitches evenly spaced = 327-343-375 stitches (there is now room for 40-42-46 repeats of A.2 with 8 stitches, then work the first 5 stitches in A.2 so the pattern is the same on both front pieces).
Arrow-4: Increase 12-20-24 stitches evenly spaced = 339-363-399 stitches (there is now room for 28-30-33 repeats of A.2 with 12 stitches).
Work up to and including the row before arrow-5 in A.2.

XL, XXL and XXXL:
Arrow-1: Increase 30-40-50 stitches evenly spaced = 255-271-291 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 28-40-48 stitches evenly spaced = 283-311-339 stitches (there is now room for 20-22-24 repeats of A.1 with 14 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 28-32-36 stitches evenly spaced = 311-343-375 stitches.
Arrow-4: Increase 28-32-36 stitches evenly spaced = 339-375-411 stitches (there is now room for 28-31-34 repeats of A.2 with 12 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 52-56-60 stitches evenly spaced = 391-431-471 stitches (there is now room for 48-53-58 repeats of A.2 with 8 stitches, then work the first 5 stitches in A.2 so the pattern is the same on both front pieces).
Arrow-6: Increase 44-40-36 stitches evenly spaced = 435-471-507 stitches (there is now room for 36-39-42 repeats of A.2 with 12 stitches).
Work up to and including the row before arrow-7 in A.2.

ALL SIZES:
Leave the yoke on the needle and work the bands:
Place the 5 band stitches from the thread on the left front piece on needle size 3 mm. Work garter stitch back and forth with sea fog for approx. 17-18-18-22-22-23 cm – control the length to match the yoke; the band needs to be stretched slightly. Place the stitches on 1 thread or extra needle.
Work the right band in the same way but remember the buttonholes on the right band.

Then work the row marked with arrow-5 in A.2 (S, M and L) and arrow-7 in A.2 (XL, XXL and XXXL) as follows: Place the 5 band stitches from the left front piece onto the circular needle and work these 5 stitches in garter stitch as before, cast off the 1 edge stitch, knit with sea fog the next 337-361-397-433-469-505 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 3-11-3-7-7-7 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches, cast off the 1 edge stitch and work the 5 band stitches on the right band in garter stitch = 350-382-410-450-486-522 stitches on the needle. Finish A.2. The piece now measures 19-20-20-24-24-25 cm from the marker on the neck.
Continue back and forth in stocking stitch with sea fog and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side (size S: only continue working if the piece measures less than 19 cm when A.2 has been completed).
When the piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the marker on the neck, divide the yoke for the body and sleeves on the next row as follows: Work 55-60-63-69-76-83 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 70-76-84-92-96-100 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work 100-110-116-128-142-156 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece), place the next 70-76-84-92-96-100 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 55-60-63-69-76-83 stitches as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 222-242-258-282-314-342 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 58-63-67-73-81-88 stitches in from each side (= sides of body). There are 106-116-124-136-152-166 stitches between threads on the back piece. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Continue back and forth with sea fog, stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 5 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 5 cm a total of 4 times = 238-258-274-298-330-358 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 26 cm from the division. There is approx. 4 cm to finished length; you can try the jacket on and work to desired length.
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 59-65-69-75-83-89 stitches evenly spaced = 297-323-343-373-413-447 stitches (this is done to avoid the rib being tight).
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, purl 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 4 cm. Cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 70-76-84-92-96-100 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-92-100-106-110 stitches. Now insert 2 markers in the piece (without working the stitches). Start mid under the sleeve in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches and insert 1 marker in the first stitch after the middle, count 37-40-45-49-52-54 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch = 37-40-45-49-52-54 left on the round after the marker.
The marker under the sleeve is used when decreasing, the one on top of the sleeve is used to find the beginning of the pattern. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards.
Start under the sleeve with stitch with the marker and work stocking stitch in the round with sea fog.
When the piece measures 3-3-3-3-2-2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-2½-2-1½-1½-1 cm a total of 12-14-17-20-22-23 times = 52-54-58-60-62-64 stitches.
Work until the sleeve measures 36-35-33-31-29-28 cm from the division. There is approx. 9 cm to finished length; you can try the jacket on and work to desired length; be aware that in some sizes, the decreases under the sleeve are not yet finished. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
Now work A.3 (count out from the marker on top of the sleeve to where the pattern starts – the stitch marked with a star in A.3 matches the stitch with the marker).
When A.3 has been completed, the sleeve measures approx. 41-40-38-36-34-33 cm from the division. The rest of the sleeve is worked with sea fog.
Knit 1 round where you increase 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches evenly spaced = 64-66-72-74-78-80 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib (= knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 45-44-42-40-38-37 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the bands neatly inside the 1 edge stitch on the yoke. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = sea fog
symbols = off white
symbols = increase-row
symbols = mid-stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 215-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
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Comments / Questions (6)

country flag Dadi Jaan 26.03.2021 - 10:13:

Thank you very much for your lovely detailed pattern suiting a number of different body sizes. I managed to make it within 18 days and this was my 2nd adult cardigan ever. Cannot thank you enough!

country flag Kathryn Harris 18.09.2020 - 17:25:

Hello. Lovely pattern. What is the suggested ease for this pattern please.

user icon DROPS Design 20.09.2020 kl. 02:27:

Dear Kathryn, for the measurements of this sweater, please refer to the schematic drawing at the bottom of teh pattern. Ease is up to your personal preference, the model in the picture wears a cardigan with a small (an inch or two) positive ease. Happy knitting!

country flag Anne Torsvik 01.09.2020 - 20:16:

I would like to knit this jacket with another main colour (two shades of blue). Is it possible to order the pattern and the required amount of yarn in two different shades of light blue or blue and turquoise? If you could accommodate my request, I will specify the colours more in detail in my order.

user icon DROPS Design 02.09.2020 kl. 08:34:

Dear Mrs Torsvik, you will find all colours Alpaca in its shadecard here - your DROPS store will help you choosing the best colours if you need help, just d o not hesitate to contact them - see list here - change country if needed. Happy knitting!

country flag Kelly Crane 03.07.2020 - 19:53:

The design just draws me in and soothes me. It's no overwhelming no does it overpower the wearer. It envelops me in a soothing but interesting way.

country flag Geli 04.06.2020 - 15:36:

Jacke paßt gut zu Jeans

country flag Geli 04.06.2020 - 15:34:

Pulli ist sehr schön und bestimmt nich so schwer zu stricken !

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