DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.40$.

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Knitted sweater with raglan in DROPS Alpaca. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern and short sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 212-40
DROPS design: Pattern z-881
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-90-96-108-118-128 cm = 31 1/2”-35 1/2”-37 3/4”-42 1/2”-46 1/2”-50 3/8”
Full length: 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18”-19”-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-200-200-250-250-300 g color 3112, powder pink

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to raglan):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over between 2 stitches. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to side on body and sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

NUMBER OF STITCHES:
As both increases and decreases are done in A.1a, A.2a, A.3a and A.4a, number of stitches vary according to which round it is counted on (depending on you are increasing/decreasing in pattern).

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle. If this also is too tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch and bind off these as regular stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 108-120-126-132-135-144 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with Alpaca. Knit 1 round. Work rib (= knit 1/purl 2).
Continue rib like this for 2 cm = 3/4”.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round mid back, measure yoke from this marker!

YOKE:
Half back piece: Knit 6-9-9-9-9-12, A.1 (= 7 stitches).
Right sleeve: Knit 2, A.2 (= 4 stitches), A.3a (= 17-17-17-23-23-23 stitches), A.4 (= 4 stitches), knit 2.
Front piece: Work A.1 over 7 stitches, knit 11-17-22-17-19-23, A.1 over 7 stitches.
Left sleeve: Knit 2, A.2 over 4 stitches, A.3a over 17-17-17-23-23-23 stitches, A.4 over 4 stitches, knit 2.
Half back piece: Work A.1 over 7 stitches, knit 5-8-9-8-9-11.
Work 1 round with the established pattern.
On next round increase for raglan on each side of every A.1 – read INCREASE TIP-1 (= 8 stitches increased). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Increase like this every other round 22-24-28-33-37-40 times in total.
When the first 3 rows in pattern A.1, A.2 and A.4 has been worked, repeat A.1a, A.2a and A.4a in height.
When A.3a has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.3b (= 29-29-29-35-35-35 stitches) over A.3a.
When increase for raglan is done, there are 324-352-390-436-471-504 stitches on needle – read NUMBER OF STITCHES.
Work in the established pattern until piece measures 18-20-21-23-25-27 cm = 7”-8”-8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8” from marker.
Adjust so that next round is a round with total number of stitches (i.e. 324-352-390-436-471-504 stitches), this because number of stitches can vary because of decreases/increases in diagrams.
On next round divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work over the first 45-50-54-61-68-73 stitches as before, slip the next 73-77-87-97-101-107 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8 stitches under sleeve, work over the next 89-99-108-121-134-145 stitches, slip the next 73-77-87-97-101-107 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8 stitches under sleeve and work the last 44-49-54-60-67-72 stitches.

BODY:
= 194-214-232-258-285-306 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches under over each sleeve (= in the sides of body).
There are 97-107-116-129-142-153 stitches between marker threads on front piece and 97-107-116-129-143-153 stitches between marker threads on back piece.
Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase and decrease later in the sides.
When last repetition of A.1a from the yoke has been worked vertically, work A.1b over every A.1a. When A.1b has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 190-210-228-254-281-302 stitches on needle.
Continue in the round in stockinette stitch.
When piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread in each side - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2 cm = 3/4” 4 times in total = 174-194-212-238-265-286 stitches.
When piece measures 10 cm = 4” from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker threads in the sides - read INCREASE TIP-2(= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every cm = 3/8” 9 times in total = 210-230-248-274-301-322 stitches.
When piece measures 21-21-22-22-22-22 cm = 8 1/4”-8 1/4”-8 3/4”-8 3/4”-8 3/4”-8 3/4” from division, increase 12-13-13-14-14-14 stitches evenly = 222-243-261-288-315-336 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and work rib (= knit 1/purl 2). When piece measures 24-24-25-25-25-25 cm = 9 1/2”-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4” from division, bind off all stitches by knitting- read BIND-OFF TIP.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 73-77-87-97-101-107 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and pick up 1 new stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under sleeve = 81-85-95-105-109-115 stitches – remember number of stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8 new stitches. Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work pattern and decrease stitches mid under sleeve as follows:
Work A.2a, A.3b and A.4a over the middle stitches, knit the remaining stitches.
When A.3b has been worked, work A.3c over A.3b.
When sleeve measures 1 cm = 3/8” from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every cm = 3/8” 3-3-3-3-5-5 times in total, then decrease every other cm = 3/8” 2-2-2-2-0-0 times in total = 71-75-85-95-99-105 stitches.
On last round in A.3c increase 0-1-2-0-1-1 stitches before pattern, and 2-0-1-2-0-0 stitches after the pattern = 73-76-88-97-100-106 stitches.
When A.3c has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 14-12-11-10-8-6 cm = 5 1/2”-4 3/4”-4 3/8”-4”-3 1/8”-2 3/8” from division. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5.
Work next round as follows:
* Knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the first 15-18-24-24-27-30 stitches, A.2b over A.2a, continue with knit over knit and purl over purl over stitches in A.3c, A.4b over A.4a, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* over 15-15-21-24-24-27 stitches and finish with purl 2 = 75-78-90-99-102-108 stitches.
Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures 17-15-14-13-11-9 cm = 6 3/4”-6”-5 1/2”-5 1/8”-4 3/8”-3 1/2” from division, then bind off by knitting.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 04.06.2020
Correction: Changes made to diagram A.4. In addition the written pattern has more info about how to repeat the diagrams A.1a, A.2a and A.4a.
Updated online: 25.02.2021
Correction: Changes made to diagram A.3b sizes S-M-L.
Updated online: 26.02.2021
Correction: Changes made to diagram A.4 (row 6), sizes XL-XXL-XXXL.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = work 3 stitches in stitch as follows: Knit the stitch but wait to drop the stitch off the needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle and knit the stitch 1 more time, then drop the stitches of the needle = 3 stitches (= 2 stitches increased).
symbols = this square is not a stitch because stitch was decreased earlier, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = knit 3, pass first stitch worked over the other 2 so that this stitch is around the other 2 stitches (= 1 stitch decreased).
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next round, it should not make a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (78)

country flag Jutta wrote:

In der Anleitung steht bei passe: wenn die ersten 3 runden von a1,a2 und a3 gestrickt wurden…. Ich kann a3 nicht finden. Nur A3a, A3b und a3c

15.03.2024 - 16:37

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Jutta, in diesem Satz Wenn die ersten 3 Runden von A.1, A.2 und A.3 gestrickt wurden, A.1a, A.2a und A.4a in der Höhe wiederholen. soll es nicht A.3 heissen sondern A.4. Danke für den Hinweis, eine Korrektur erfolgt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

18.03.2024 - 07:57

country flag Paula wrote:

What are the finished chest measurements?

08.03.2024 - 17:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Paula, all measurements you can find in the drawing below the pattern instructions and charts. Happy knitting!

09.03.2024 - 21:56

country flag Elin wrote:

Hej! När jag gör mönstret i L, är det 4 fler maskor på framstycket än bakstycket. Det blir rätt maskantal men när jag nu ska flytta över maskor till ärmarna hamnar ärmarna inte symmetriskt. Varför är det såhär?

23.02.2024 - 15:15

country flag Genevieve wrote:

Hi. I am now working on M Size. Have finished yoke, separated sleeves and now have completed chart A.1b. I have 214 stitches instead of 210 stitches! After separating the sleeves and cast on 8 stitches for under arm, there's 214 stitches and I didn't see any decrease in chart.

12.02.2024 - 07:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Genevieve, There is a decrease of 1 stitch in each repetition of A.1b, which reduses your stitch count from 214 to 210 stitches before continuing with stocking stitch. Happy knitting!

12.02.2024 - 08:04

country flag Karin wrote:

Gibt es die Anleitung auch in Deutsch?

10.08.2023 - 13:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Karin, ja sicher, klicken Sie auf dem drop-down Menu unter die Fotos um die Sprache zu wechseln. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.08.2023 - 14:16

country flag Pauline wrote:

Bonjour. Pour la partie "dos et devant". Lorsque A.1b a été tricoté une fois , faut il reprendre à A.1a ou ne faire que A.1b tout le temps ? Merci pour votre aide

17.06.2023 - 17:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pauline, quand A.1b est fait, on tricote toutes les mailles en jersey, même les mailles de A.1b. Bon tricot!

19.06.2023 - 08:36

country flag Karina wrote:

Jubii! Færdig med min trøje. Men! Den er alt for kort :-/ Den når mig kun til over navlen. Jeg har lavet den 24 cm fra delingen og brugt alt garnet. Det forstår jeg simpelthen ikke?

08.05.2023 - 21:18

country flag Mariana Brorsson wrote:

När jag kommer till varv 24 på XL storleken skall de aviga maskorna förskjutas för att bredda mönstret. Får inte ihop det då det då går in i det tidigare mönstret.

05.03.2023 - 11:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mariana, jeg gætter på at det er A.3a du spørger om. De 2 nye masker kommer fra de 2 omslag du lavede i midten af diagrammet for seneste pind. Sæt gerne et mærke i hver side af diagrammet, så du starter diagrammet samme sted hver gang :)

08.03.2023 - 08:24

country flag Tracy Plowright wrote:

How do I continue with row 2 A3a as per the diagram it's 25sts, but if I do 25sts I won't have enough stitches to complete the row correctly. I am so confused. Thank you

19.02.2023 - 05:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tracy, in the first row of A.3a, in the middle symbol, we work 3 stitches in 1 stitch (so we have increased 2 stitches from 23 stitches = 25 stitches). In the 2nd row, we work over all of these stitches, included the ones increased in the previous row. Happy knitting!

19.02.2023 - 19:36

country flag Teresa Astray wrote:

Muchas gracias por la rápida respuesta. No me había fijado en que se repiten solo la sección A.

07.02.2023 - 14:16