DROPS Melody
DROPS Melody
71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 4.25 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Sweet Melody

Knitted jumper with short sleeves in DROPS Melody. Piece is knitted top down with raglan. Size XS–XXL.

DROPS 212-23
DROPS design: Pattern ml-051
Yarn group D
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
100-150-150-150-150-150 g colour 17, strong pink

KNITTING TENSION:
12 stitches in width and 14 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm : Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm : Length 40 and 60 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Melody
DROPS Melody
71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 4.25 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 56 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 4) = 14. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 14th stitch. On next round, work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. To decrease in this example knit every 13th and 14th stitch together.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves as explained below, and increase every 4th round as explained in pattern.
INCREASE 4 STITCHES AS FOLLOWS:
Knit 1 in stitch below stitch with marker (raglan stitch), do not slip stitches off the needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle, knit 1 in same stitch, but wait to slip off the needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle and knit 1 in same stitch, then slip the stitch off the left needle (= 4 stitches increased).
Insert 1 marker in the middle of these 5 stitches (for next increase).
INCREASE 2 STITCHES AS FOLLOWS:
Knit 1 in stitch below stitch with marker (raglan stitch), do not slip stitches off the needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle, knit 1 in same stitch, then slip the stitch off the left needle (= 2 stitches increased).
Insert 1 marker in the middle of these 3 stitches (for next increase - only applies to size L).

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased by marker).

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 56-58-60-62-64-68 stitches on a short circular needle size 6 mm with Melody. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 1) for 4 cm. 
When rib is done, knit a round while at the same time increasing 4-6-8-6-8-4 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 60-64-68-68-72-72 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of row (= mid front). Measure yoke from this marker!
Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and knit 1 round (knit all yarn overs twisted to avoid holes). Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Insert 4 markers in the piece as explained below. Use markers when increasing for raglan.
Count 9-10-11-11-12-12 stitches (= ½ back piece), insert 1 marker in next stitch, count 10 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next stitch, count 18-20-22-22-24-24 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker in next stitch, count 10 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next stitch. 9-10-11-11-12-12 stitches remain on back piece after last marker.
Work in stocking stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on first round, increase for RAGLAN – read explanation above. I.e. increase first 4 stitches in every stitch with marker (= 16 stitches in total increased on round).
Work in stocking stitch and increase for raglan every 4th round 5-6-7-7-9-9 times in total vertically = 140-160-180-180-216-216 stitches.
Continue with increase every 4th round, but now increase only 2 stitches in every stitch with marker, as explained above (= 8 stitches increased in total on round). Increase 2 stitches at every marker 1-1-1-2-0-1 times in total vertically. After last increase there are 148-168-188-196-216-224 stitches on needle.

Work in stocking stitch without increases until piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from marker by the neck.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. I.e. work next round as follows from mid back: Work 22-25-27-29-33-35 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), slip the next 30-34-40-40-42-42 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work 44-50-54-58-66-70 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), slip the next 30-34-40-40-42-42 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 22-25-27-29-33-35 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 100-112-120-132-148-160 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round and 1 marker thread after 50-56-60-66-74-80 stitches (= in the sides on body). Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for decrease later.
Begin round in the side at one of the marker threads, and work stocking stitch in the round.
When piece measures 4 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Repeat decrease when piece measures 8 cm from division = 92-104-112-124-140-152 stitches.
Work until piece measures 13 cm from division (approx. 4 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jumper on and work to desired length).
Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Knit 1 round while increasing 4-6-6-6-8-8 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 96-110-118-130-148-160 stitches.
Then work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Jumper measures approx. 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 30-34-40-40-42-42 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or short circular needle size 8 mm, and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches under sleeve = 36-40-46-48-50-52 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches under sleeve and move the marker thread upwards when working. Use marker later when decreasing mid under sleeve. Begin round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When sleeve measures 2 cm from division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5-3-½-½-½-½ cm 2-3-5-5-5-5 times in total = 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 10-9-7-6-6-6 cm from division (approx. 4 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jacket on and work to desired length). NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round while decreasing 2 stitches evenly = 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 6 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP. Sleeve measures approx. 14-13-11-10-10-10 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (44)

country flag Lara wrote:

Please clarify the pattern instructions for working the Body. The last line of working the Yoke finishes with 1/2 of back piece. The first line of Body then says to put marker at beginning of round (middle of back piece) and another after 50 stitches (I'm working the XS small). It says that decreases will be worked at these markers but they are in mid-back and mid-front, and not sides of body mentioned in the pattern. How should I proceed?

07.08.2023 - 03:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lara, after you have divided piece (rounds ended on mid back), work the stitches at the beg of the round (1st half back piece) until the middle of the new stitches cast on mid under sleeve - the rounds now start here. Continue in the round from here. Happy knitting!

07.08.2023 - 11:09

country flag Lorna Strombeck wrote:

Thank you for taking this question: The style is perfect for my kidsilk mohair cropped elbow-length raglan seamless top down sweater. I would like, however, to rouche at the sleeve shoulder for a puffed rather than the fitted shape. How do I achieve the rouche incorporated into the raglan pattern?

08.08.2022 - 17:57

country flag Elah wrote:

I have a wool sensitivity, is there a substitute for the melody yarn thats as affordable?

25.04.2022 - 11:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Elah, use our yarn converter to see suggested Alternatives - read even more about yarn alternatives here and do not hesitate to contact your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone for any further individual assistance choosing the best matching alternatives. Happy knitting!

25.04.2022 - 12:15

country flag Karien wrote:

Bij het breien van de pas start ik met 64 steken voor maat M. \r\nAls ik de markers goed plaats in deze maat, houd ik vier steken over. Immers: 20 steken voor voor- en achterpand maakt 40. \r\nTwee keer 10 steken voor mouwen maakt 20. Totaal 60. \r\nWaar verdeel ik de vier over gebleven steken in?

22.02.2022 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Karien,

Je plaatst de markeerdraden in de steken en niet tussen de steken. Wellicht ontstaat hierdoor het verschil van 4 steken?

26.02.2022 - 13:35

country flag Helga wrote:

Hei, jeg hadde et spørsmål om felling under armen på størrelse s. Det skal felles første gang etter 2 cm, etter hvor mange cm skal man felle 2 og 3 gangen?

17.02.2022 - 10:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helga, det kommer an på hvilken størrelse du strikker: sådan her står det: Fell slik på hver 5.-3.-½.-½.-½.-½.cm totalt 2-3-5-5-5-5 ganger = 32-34-36-38-40-42 masker. God fornøjelse!

18.02.2022 - 13:47

country flag Aleksandra wrote:

Dzień dobry. Mam pytanie do tego wzoru. Planuję zrobić rozmiar M, czyli nabieram na druty nr 6 60 oczek włóczki i na reglan mam dodac równomiernie 8 oczek, według wskazówek wychodzi mi co 7.5 oczka. Jak to zrobić przecież nie ma 7.5 oczka? I jeśli dodam 8 oczek będę miała na drucie 68 oczek... Przy dzieleniu karczka 4 markerami 22 na tył, 22 na przód po 20 oczek na rekawy zostaje mi 4 oczka z tych 68. Co mam z nimi zrobić?

07.02.2022 - 22:14

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Olu, dodajesz równomiernie 8 oczek, tj. na przemian za każdym 6tym i 7mym oczkiem (ok.). 4 oczka nie zostaną, ponieważ markery są wkładane w oczka, a nie między oczkami. Miłej pracy!

07.02.2022 - 23:30

country flag Victoria wrote:

Hei. Jeg strikker i str S, og Jeg har kommet til der hvor jeg skal øke til raglan. Det står at jeg skal øke på hver 4 omgang og 6 ganger i høyden? Betyr det at jeg skal strikke glattstrikk uten noe økninger i 4 omg, også øke etter 4 og? Også skal det skje 6 ganger til jeg har fått 160 m? Stemmer det?

06.05.2021 - 17:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Victoria, Du skal øke til raglan på den 1. omgangen, deretter strikke 3 omganger til før du øker til raglan på den 4. omgangen. Og økninger skal skje 6 ganger, som du sier. God fornøyelse!

07.05.2021 - 07:40

country flag Nelli wrote:

Een kleinigheidje: de stekenaantallen zoals genoemd in de werkbeschrijving voor de pas kloppen niet met de stekenaantallen na de boord (is opzet plus de meerdering direct na de boord). Dit geldt i.i.g. voor de maten L en XL, voor de andere maten heb ik het niet nagegaan. Vriendelijke groet!

02.05.2021 - 22:24

country flag Caroline wrote:

Når man lukker kanten til sidst, anbefaler I at bruge større str pinde så man sørger for at den ikke bliver lukket for stramt. Hvor meget større anbefaler I?

11.04.2021 - 17:03

country flag Kristina Griksaite wrote:

Hei, tror du det er mulig å lage genseren med lange armer?

17.03.2021 - 11:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kristina, ja du fortsætter bare ærmet så langt du vil. Prøv blusen undervejs, så du får dine personlige mål :)

17.03.2021 - 14:40