DROPS / 212 / 21

Phoenix Wrap by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl with 2 coloured English rib in DROPS Fabel. Piece is knitted top down , with stripes and eyelet rows.

Tags: lace, shawls, stripes,
DROPS design: Pattern no FA-448
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
Height: Measured along middle stitch = approx. 60 cm
Width: Measured along the top side from side to side = approx. 172 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150 g colour no 903, yellow/pink
50 g colour 100, off white
50 g colour 159, red chilli
50 g colour 153, texmex

KNITTING TENSION:
18 stitches in width and 42 rows (i.e. 21 visible stitches vertically) with English rib = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 80 cm.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

I-CORD EDGE:
Work the first and last 3 stitches on shawl as an i-cord. It is important not to work too tight but to make sure to tighten the yarn a bit before continuing on row after stitches have been slipped.
At the beginning of row from right side slip stitches on to right needle without working with yarn on right side of piece/towards you. At the end of rows from right side knit stitches.
At the beginning of row from wrong side slip stitches on to right needle without working with yarn on wrong side of piece/towards you. At the end of rows from wrong side knit stitches.

STRIPES:
STRIPE 1: Colour 1 = off white. Colour 2 = yellow/ pink
STRIPE 2: Colour 1 = red chilli Colour 2 = yellow/ pink
STRIPE 3: Colour 1 = yellow/pink. Colour 2 = red chilli
STRIPE 4: Colour 1 = yellow/pink. Colour 2 = texmex
STRIPE 5: Colour 1= off white. Colour 2 = yellow/ pink

INCREASE 2 STITCHES:
Increase is done in a knit stitch from right side. Knit stitch and yarn over together, but do not slip them off left needle, make 1 yarn over and work stitch and yarn over together again. Then slip stitch and yarn over off left needle = 3 stitches on right needle = 2 stitches increased. On next row work stitches in pattern.

INCREASE 4 STITCHES:
Increase is done in a knit stitch from right side. * Knit stitch and yarn over together, but do not slip them off left needle, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 2 times in total and work stitch and yarn over together 1 more time. Then slip stitch and yarn over off left needle = 5 stitches on right needle = 4 stitches increased. On next row work stitches in pattern.

EYELET ROW:
Work with off white as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Make i-cord edge as before over the 3 first stitches, * knit next stitch and yarn over together, knit next stitch *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain and work i-cord edge as before over the last 3 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Make i-cord edge as before over the 3 first stitches, knit until 3 stitches remain and work i-cord edge as before over the last 3 stitches.
ROW 3 (= right side): Make an i-cord edge as before over the 3 first stitches, * knit 2 together and make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remains before middle stitch - it is important to finish with 1 yarn over. Now work as follows over the next 5 stitches: Knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= middle stitch), make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, work from *-* until 5 stitches remain. Knit 2 stitches together and work i-cord edge as before over the last 3 stitches. (= 4 stitches increased).
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Make i-cord edge as before over the 3 first stitches, knit until 3 stitches remain and work i-cord edge as before over the last 3 stitches.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked top down, work 2 coloured English rib back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the stitches. The shawl begins with working 1 small i-cord, to pick up stitches. Shawl is then worked with i-cord edge in each side. Then work stripes with different colours and make eyelet rows.

SHAWL:
Cast on 4 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with off white. * Knit 1 row, do not turn piece! Then move the stitches to the other end of needle so that next row is worked from the same side again *, work from *-* until 9 rows have been worked. Turn the piece to pick up stitches in i-cord. Begin to pick up 7 stitches along the side of i-cord - pick up through both stitch loops and make sure to pick up downwards in the same row with stitches. Then pick up 4 stitches in the end of i-cord = cast-on edge. There are now 15 stitches on needle.
Turn piece and work 3 rows as follows:
From wrong side: With yarn towards you (= wrong side of piece), slip the first 3 stitches over on to right needle purlwise (= I-CORD EDGE - read explanation above). Knit all stitches. Turn piece.
From right side: With yarn towards you (= right side of piece), slip the first 3 stitches over on to right needle purlwise (= i-cord edge). Knit all stitches. Turn piece.
From wrong side: With yarn towards you (= wrong side of piece), slip the first 3 stitches over on to right needle purlwise (= i-cord edge). Knit all stitches. Turn piece.

Now continue in 2 coloured English rib and use colours from STRIPE 1.

ROW 1 (= right side): Worked with colour 1: Pass 3 stitches from left to right needle purlwise with yarn on right side of piece (= i-cord edge), INCREASE 2 STITCHES in next stitch, make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, knit 1, make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, INCREASE 4 STITCHES in next stitch (= middle stitch), make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, knit 1, make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, INCREASE 2 STITCHES in next stitch. Knit 3 (= i-cord edge). 8 stitches in total have been increased on needle. Push stitches back to the other side of circular needle (without turning the piece), to work from the same side as previous row.

ROW 2 (= right side): Worked with colour 2: Slip 3 stitches from left to right needle purlwise with yarn on wrong side of piece (= i-cord edge), make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl 1, make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl next stitch and yarn over together, make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl next stitch and yarn over together, make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl next stitch and yarn over together, * make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl 1 *, work from *-* 1 more time and make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl next stitch and yarn over together, make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl 1, make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise. Knit 3 (= i-cord edge).
NOTE! Insert 1 marker in middle stitch to make it easier to see where to increase later, move the marker in middle stitch upwards when working. Turn piece.

ROW 3 (= wrong side): Worked with colour 1: Slip 3 stitches from left to right needle purlwise with yarn on wrong side of piece (= i-cord edge),
* purl yarn over and slipped stitch together, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain, purl yarn over and slipped stitch together. Knit 3 (= i-cord edge).
Push stitches back to the other side of circular needle (without turning the piece), to work from the same side as previous row.

ROW 4 (= wrong side): Worked with colour 2: Slip 3 stitches from left to right needle purlwise with yarn on wrong side of piece (= i-cord), *make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit yarn over and slipped stitch together *, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise. Knit 3 (= i-cord edge).
Turn piece.

REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

ROW 5 (= right side): Worked with colour 1: Slip 3 stitches from left to right needle purlwise with yarn on wrong side of piece (= i-cord edge), INCREASE 2 STITCHES in next stitch, * make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, knit next stitch and yarn over together *, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain, INCREASE 2 stitches in next stitch. Knit 3 (= i-cord edge). 4 stitches in total have been increased on needle. Push stitches back to the other side of circular needle (without turning the piece), to work from the same side as previous row.

ROW 6 (= right side): Worked with colour 2: Slip 3 stitches from left to right needle purlwise with yarn on wrong side of piece (= i-cord edge), make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl 1, * make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl next stitch and yarn over together *, work from *-* until 6 stitches remain. Make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl next stitch, make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise. Knit 3 (= i-cord edge). Turn piece.

ROW 7 (= wrong side): Worked with colour 1: Slip 3 stitches from left to right needle purlwise with yarn on wrong side of piece (= i-cord edge),
* purl yarn over and slipped stitch together, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain, purl yarn over and slipped stitch together. Knit 3 (= i-cord edge). Push stitches back to the other side of circular needle (without turning the piece), to work from the same side as previous row.

ROW 8 (= wrong side): Worked with colour 2: Slip 3 stitches from left to right needle purlwise with yarn on wrong side of piece (= i-cord), *make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit yarn over and slipped stitch together *, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise. Knit 3 (= i-cord edge). Turn piece.

ROW 9 (= right side): Worked with colour 1: Slip 3 stitches from left to right needle purlwise with yarn on wrong side of piece (= i-cord edge), INCREASE 2 STITCHES in next stitch, * make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, knit next stitch and yarn over together *, work from *-* until middle stitch. INCREASE 4 STITCHES in middle stitch, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain, INCREASE 2 stitches in next stitch. Knit 3 (= i-cord edge). 8 stitches in total have been increased on needle. Push stitches back to the other side of circular needle (without turning the piece), to work from the same side as previous row.

ROW 10 (= right side): Worked with colour 2: Slip 3 stitches from left to right needle purlwise with yarn on wrong side of piece (= i-cord edge), make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl 1, * make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl next stitch and yarn over together *, work from *-* until 6 stitches remain. Make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl next stitch, make 1 yarn over and slip next stitch on to right needle purlwise. Knit 3 (= i-cord edge). Turn piece.

ROW 11 (= wrong side): Worked with colour 1: Slip 3 stitches from left to right needle purlwise with yarn on wrong side of piece (= i-cord edge),
* purl yarn over and slipped stitch together, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain, purl yarn over and slipped stitch together. Knit 3 (= i-cord edge).
Push stitches back to the other side of circular needle (without turning the piece), to work from the same side as previous row.

ROW 12 (= wrong side): Worked with colour 2: Slip 3 stitches from left to right needle purlwise with yarn on wrong side of piece (= i-cord), *make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit yarn over and slipped stitch together *, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise. Knit 3 (= i-cord edge).
Turn piece.

Repeat rows 5-12 6 times in total vertically.
Switch colours on STRIPE 2 and repeat ROWS 5-12 6 times in total vertically.

Switch to off white and work 1 EYELET ROW as explained above.

Switch colours on STRIPE 3 and repeat rows 5-12 6 times in total vertically.

Switch to off white and work 1 EYELET ROW as explained above.

Switch colours on STRIPE 4 and repeat rows 5-12 6 times in total vertically.

Switch to off white and work 1 EYELET ROW as explained above.

Switch colours on STRIPE 5 and repeat rows 5-12 3 times in total vertically and adjust so that next row is worked from right side with colour 2 - i.e. yellow/pink.

CAST-OFF:
On next row cast off with an i-cord cast-off. It is important that the edge is loosely cast off to get a nice shape on the shawl. Use a larger needle size to cast off if needed, and make sure to work loose, even stitches.
Work and decrease as follows: * Knit 2, knit the next 2 stitches twisted together. Then slide the 3 stitches from right needle back on left needle (in same order they are in) *, work from *-* until all stitches on left needle are cast off and 3 stitches remain on right needle. Slide the 3 stitches on to left needle and cast off these stitches by knitting. Cut and fasten the yarn.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (6)

Barbara Liebing 19.07.2020 - 15:20:

Hey, ich versuche gerade dieses schöne Tuch zu stricken , aber schon in der ersten Reihe des zweifarbigen Patents stimmt die Anleitung nicht . ständig steht da , dass drei Maschen abgehoben werden sollen, obwohl es nur eine ist. Jetzt bin ich bei Reihe 5, wo wieder ständig steht das 3 Maschen abgehoben werden sollen. aber hier passt es auch nicht wenn ich nur eine Masche abhebe. Die weiteren Reihen habe ich ich nicht kontrolliert, aber mir vergeht gerade die Lust weiter zu arbeiten.

DROPS Design 20.07.2020 kl. 09:54:

Liebe Frau Leibing, so wird dieses Tuch gestrickt - dh das Video zeigt wie die 1. - 4. Reihe mit zweifarbigen Patent strickt; Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Farideh 22.04.2020 - 18:10:

Himap crochet

Pia Busk 31.01.2020 - 17:42:

Mexico

Ilse Bonder 26.01.2020 - 12:37:

Sunsetlove

Pál Anikó Noémi 16.12.2019 - 11:36:

Vidámság

Einfachwolle 11.12.2019 - 18:21:

FeuerwerkBrioche!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 212-21

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.