Set Sail by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. Size XS–XXL.

  • Set Sail / DROPS 210-34 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. Size XS–XXL.
  • Set Sail / DROPS 210-34 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. Size XS–XXL.
DROPS design: Pattern sk-082
Yarn group B and A
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-250-250-250-300 g colour 13, denim blue
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-100-100-100-125-125 g colour 07, light sky blue

KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 17 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 mm: Length 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm: Length 80 cm for edges in garter stitch.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK 5 mm: For neck edge.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.40 € /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 5.40 € /50g
Camellia
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 5.40 € /50g
Camellia
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.60€. Read more.

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side by making 1 yarn over. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
Because of many increases in each side on sleeve, the increases are explained in rows vertically. If the knitting tension does not match vertically this will impact the finished measurement on sleeve. Check the knitting tension! If the knitting tension does not match you can adjust the distance between increases by dividing the number of increases to be done with desired sleeve length in cm.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work front piece, back piece and sleeves separately, back and forth on circular needle, bottom up. Sew piece together. Finally crochet an edge around the neck.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 52-58-64-70-76-84 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 6 mm with 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above.
Switch to circular needle size 7 mm, and work in stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 3 cm, increase 1 stitch in each side - read INCREASE TIP!
Increase like this every 2½-2½-3-3-3-3 cm 7 times in total in each side = 66-72-78-84-90-98 stitches.
When piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm, cast off for armholes at the beginning of row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1-2-2-3-4-4 times and 1 stitch 3-2-4-5-5-8 times = 50-54-56-56-58-60 stitches.
Continue to work until piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm. On next row cast off the middle 30-32-34-34-36-36 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Work over the 10-11-11-11-11-12 stitches on one shoulder until piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. Loosely cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way. 

BACK PIECE:
Work as front piece.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 28-28-30-32-32-34 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 6 mm with 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges.
Switch to circular needle size 7 mm, and work in stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 2-2-2-2-4-4 cm, increase 1 stitch in each side – remember INCREASE TIP. Increase like this 24-26-26-27-29-29 times in total, in XS: On every 3rd row (equivalent to approx. 1,7 cm), in S, M and L: Alternately every 2nd and 3rd row (equivalent to approx. 1,5 cm), and in XL and XXL: On every other row (equivalent to approx.1,2 cm) = 76-80-82-86-90-92 stitches- read KNITTING TIP. After last increase work until sleeve measures 44-44-43-43-43-41 cm.
Now cast off for sleeve cap at the beginning of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time and 2 stitches 2-2-2-2-3-3 times. Then cast off 1 stitch in each side until sleeve measures 51-51-52-53-54-54 cm. Cast off 3 stitches 1 time in each side, and then cast off the remaining stitches. Sleeve measures approx. 52-52-53-54-55-55 cm from top and down. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves inside 1 edge stitch. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge stitch.

NECK EDGE:
Crochet 2 rounds with double crochets around the neck on hook size 5 mm with 1 strand in each quality. I.e. begin mid on top of one shoulder, work 1 slip stitch in first stitch, work 1 chain stitch, then work double crochets around the neck with approx. 1 double crochet in every stitch - make sure to make a nice and even edge and not too tight. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in chain stitch from beginning of round. Work next round the same way with 1 double crochet in every stitch from previous round. Fasten off.

Diagram

diagram measurements
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 210-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (51)

country flag Paulina wrote:

Hola! Estoy intentando realizar este proyecto, pero me confunden las medidas con el diagrama. El diagrama es sólo referencial o corresponde a alguna talla? Y los números indicados qué significan? Quiero adaptarlo a la lana que tengo, pero se me hace algo difícil. De antemano, muchas gracias!

29.03.2022 - 04:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Paulina, el diagrama se utiliza para todas las tallas a la vez, cada número de las secuencias se corresponde a una talla. Esta lección te ayudará a resolver tus dudas sobre el diagrama de tallas: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=24&cid=23

29.03.2022 kl. 20:37

country flag Lilian Mendoza wrote:

Hello and thank you for your wonderful patterns! I have a question: why do I need less (half!) from Drops-Kid-Silk if the sweater is knitted with the two yarns together? Regards!

06.03.2022 - 11:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lilian, both yarns have different yardage. DROPS Sky is 190m-50g and DROPS Kid-Silk is 210m-25g. So you would need approximately 1 Kid-Silk ball (of 25gr) for each Sky ball (50gr) to work the same amount of meters. Happy knitting!

06.03.2022 kl. 13:48

country flag Monica Munoz wrote:

What can I do if I would like to modify the design by adding a rib neck instead? Thanks

23.01.2022 - 20:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Monica, please understand that we cannot modify our patterns to each individual request. Having said that, you might try to pick up stitches around the neckline and knit ribbing. Happy Stitching!

24.01.2022 kl. 00:42

country flag Karen wrote:

Can I use straight needles instead of circular for this pattern?

19.06.2021 - 19:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karen, since the garment is done in pieces and sewn up, you can use straight needles, however, the number of stitches might make it a bit uncomfortable. Happy Stitching!

20.06.2021 kl. 01:27

country flag Flatschart Andrea wrote:

Leider hat bei den Angaben die Menge der Knäuel nicht gestimmt. Ich brauchte statt der angegebenen 2 Knäuel (100 g) 3 Knäuel von Kid silk und sogar das war zu wenig und ich musste am Ende die letzten 5 cm der Ärmel ohne 2. Faden stricken. Sonst war die Anleitung sehr gut und verständlich!!

09.06.2021 - 17:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Flatschart, danke für Ihren Komentar; die Knäuel DROPS Kid-Silk sind je 25 g (siehe Farbkarte), dh mit 100 g Kid-Silk braucht man insgesamt 4 Knäuel. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.06.2021 kl. 08:29

country flag Elice Fällström wrote:

Hej! Jag ska nu maska av till ärmhål och förstår inte riktigt hur jag ska gå tillväga. Läser jag beskrivningen tolkar jag det som att jag endast ska maska av i början av varje varv och sedan sticka klart varvet utan att maska av på slutet. Detta känns dock konstigt då det borde bli asymmetriskt... Stämmer min tolkning eller skulle ni kunna beskriva detta tydligare? Tack på förhand!

17.05.2021 - 07:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elice, jo på samme måde som du øger i hver side på ærmet, maskar du også af i hver side, det gør du i början av varje varv, først 3 masker i hver side, så 2 masker i hver side og igen 2 masker i hver side. God fornøjelse!

17.05.2021 kl. 15:35

country flag Danielle Loiselle wrote:

« If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size. » I think it should be the opposite: In the first sentence, the word larger should be replaced by the word smaller, and in the second sentence, the word smaller should be replaced by the word larger.

29.04.2021 - 18:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Loiselle, this is right as described, if you have too many stitches for 10 cm this mean your stitches are too small and you need larger needles needles to get less stitches for 10 cm, and if you have too few stitches for 10 cm then your stitches are too large/big and you need smaller needles to get the correct number for 10 cm. This might help you. Happy knitting!

30.04.2021 kl. 07:34

country flag Siw Anita wrote:

Hei. Kan for- og bakstykke strikkes rundt frem til felling til armhule i stedet for hver for seg/ frem og tilbake?

29.03.2021 - 13:30

DROPS Design answered:

HEi Siw Anita. Ja, det kan det, bare få riktig maskeantalle (ingen kantmasker), forandre på forklaringen til riller og stopp før det skal felles til ermhull. mvh DROPS design

12.04.2021 kl. 13:51

country flag Cathrine wrote:

Forstår ikke dette med fellinger til armhulen. Skal alt felles på en omgang eller over flere omganger? Hadde vært fint om det stod: omg 1 fell 3, omg 2 fell 2 osv...

16.03.2021 - 22:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Cathrine, Du feller på begynnelse av alle pinner; først 3 masker på de første 2 pinnene (1 gang på hver side), så 2 masker på de neste pinnene antall avhengig av størrelsen (hvis du strikker størrelse S da blir det 2 pinner, 1 gang på begge sider) osv. Håper dette hjelper. God fornøyelse!

17.03.2021 kl. 08:06

country flag Glenys Gallagher wrote:

Can I use another yarn A for the Kid-Silk that doesn't have mohair in it ? Unfortunately skin finds mohair to itchy!

03.03.2021 - 16:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Glenys, you can use different yarns, but you do have to know that th eresult might be different. You can use our yarn converter to find a good substitution, here. Happy Knitting!

03.03.2021 kl. 16:25

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