Enchanted Evening by DROPS Design
Knitted dress in DROPS Muskat. Piece is knitted top down with round yoke, knot pattern and short sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
650-700-750-800-900-1000 g colour 76, light denim
KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch and knot pattern and pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 60 and 80 cm for stocking stitch and knot pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Muskat 100% Cotton |
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | Order | |||||
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1).
INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 120 stitches) , and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 18) = 6.7.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 6th and 7th stitch. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
If decreasing knit in this example alternately approx. every 5th and 6th stitch and every 6th and 7th stitch together.
INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to waist on body):
Increase 1 stitch after 1st and 3rd marker thread and before 2nd and 4th marker thread as explained below.
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS AFTER MARKER THREAD:
Knit 1 stitch in loop around first stitch on left needle (i.e. In stitch from previous round).
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS BEFORE MARKER THREAD: Work until marker thread, then knit 1 stitch around outermost stitch on right needle (i.e. in stitch from previous round).
INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Increase the same way before and after marker as explained in INCREASE TIP-1, but increase alternately before and after marker. I.e. increase only 1 time in each side every 1½ cm and this happen alternately before and after marker (not on each side).
DECREASE TIP (applies to waist of body):
The first decreases will be at the same time as working pattern. Adjust to decrease on a round without knots, and note that there will be fewer stitches in stocking stitch between 2 knots after a decrease.
Decrease 1 stitch after 1st and 3rd marker thread and before 2nd and 4th marker thread as explained below.
DECREASE AS FOLLOWS AFTER MARKER THREAD:
Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
DECREASE AS FOLLOWS BEFORE MARKER THREAD:
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together.
CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 8th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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DRESS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Divide yoke for body and sleeve edges. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeve edges in the round on double pointed needles, top down.
NECK EDGE:
Cast on 120-124-130-134-138-140 stitches on a short circular needle size 3 mm with Muskat. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 1) for 4 cm.
Knit 1 round while increasing 18-26-32-16-22-35 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 138-150-162-150-160-175 stitches. Knit 1 round where yarn overs are knitted twisted.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of round (= mid front). Measure yoke from this marker! Then work yoke as explained below.
YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work A.1 in the round (= 23-25-27-30-32-35 repetitions of 6-6-6-5-5-5 stitches). Continue pattern like this , and increase as shown in A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been worked, there are 230-250-270-300-320-350 stitches on needle. Then work A.2 in the round (= 23-25-27-30-32-35 repetitions of 10 stitches). Continue pattern like this and increase as shown in A.2. After last increase in A.2 there are 276-300-324-360-384-420 stitches on needle.
Work until piece measures 17-19-21-23-25-27 cm from marker at the neck - NOTE: Work A.2 as far as you can until correct measurements and in some sizes A.x must be repeated vertically until correct measurements (pattern should continue on body).
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves, i.e. work next round as follows from mid back:
Work 38-42-45-51-56-62 stitches as before (= ½ back piece), slip the next 62-66-72-78-80-86 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve edge, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 76-84-90-102-112-124 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 62-66-72-78-80-86 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve edge, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 38-42-45-51-56-62 stitches as before (= ½ back piece). Cut the yarn. Finish body and sleeve edges separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 164-180-196-220-244-268 stitches. Insert 1 marker in each side on body, in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Insert in addition 4 marker threads in the piece as follows:
Count 21-24-27-32-37-42 stitches from marker in one side of piece, insert 1st marker thread before next marker, count 40-42-44-46-48-50 stitches, insert 2nd marker thread before next stitch, count 42-48-54-64-74-84 stitches (maker in the side is in the middle of these stitches), insert 3rd marker thread before next stitch, count 40-42-44-46-48-50 stitches, insert 4th marker thread before next stitch. 21-24-27-32-37-42 stitches remain on round after last marker thread. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for decrease and increase later.
Now continue A.x while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing in the sides on body as explained below:
Begin round at marker in one side of piece and work A.x in the round, but make sure to continue on correct row in diagram according to where piece was divided, and make sure to place knots correctly over knots on yoke. Work 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under each sleeve in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 6 cm from division in all sizes, finish A.x, but finish after 1 round with knots. Continue to work stocking stitch in the round over all stitches.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 3 cm from division in all sizes, decrease 1 stitch after 1st and 3rd marker thread and before 2nd and 4th marker thread – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased).
Decrease like this every 2½ cm 4 times in total vertically = 148-164-180-204-228-252 stitches.
When piece measures 16 cm from division in all sizes, increase 1 stitch after 1st and 3rd marker thread and before 2nd and 4th marker thread – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase in addition 1 stitch at marker in each side - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 6 stitches increased in total on round). Increase like this every 2 cm 21 times vertically in all sizes = 274-290-306-330-354-378 stitches.
Work without increases until piece measures approx. 61-62-63-64-65-66 cm from division (approx. 2 cm remain until finished measurements, try the dress on and work to desired length).
Knit 1 round while increasing 20-22-24-26-26-28 stitches evenly = 294-312-330-356-380-406 stitches (increase a little to avoid the rib to be worked from contracting the edge).
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Dress measures approx. 85-88-91-94-97-100 cm from shoulder and down.
SLEEVE EDGE:
Slip the 62-66-72-78-80-86 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 68-72-80-86-90-96 stitches. Begin round in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches that were cast on under sleeve and work 3 rounds in stocking stitch. AT THE SAME TIME on last round decrease 4-4-4-4-2-2 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 64-68-76-82-88-94 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP! Sleeve edge measures approx. 4 cm from division. Work the other sleeve edge the same way.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
New charts: A.1(S-M-L)- row 10. A.1(XL-XXL-XXXL) - row 14.
Correction: Diagrams updated
Diagram
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= knit |
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= Knot: Purl 3 together, do not slip stitches off the needle, but knit 3 together and then purl together 1 more time, slip all 3 stitches off the left needle. |
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= increase 1 stitch by knitting into 1 stitch from previous round (i.e. In loop behind first stitch on left needle), do not slip stitches off the needle, knit the stitch on needle and slip the stitch off the needle. |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 211-1) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (41)
From the #dropsfan gallery
211-1 Enchanted Evening
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We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 268 catalogues and 9976 patterns - 9968 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Czy mogę prosić o pomoc przy zmniejszeniu wzoru do rozmiaru Xs? Powinnam zacząć od nabrania 114 oczek? A potem wykonać wzór A.1 22 razy?
DROPS Design
23.05.2021 kl. 21:50:
Witaj Emilio, niestety nie jesteśmy w stanie dopasować każdego z naszych wzorów do indywidualnych potrzeb. Zalecam kontakt ze sklepem, w którym kupiłaś włóczkę, gdzie uzyskasz fachową pomoc. Pozdrawiamy!What is A.x?
DROPS Design
01.02.2021 kl. 10:03:
Dear Mariel, A.x consists on the last 12 rows in A.2 - see on the right side of diagram. Happy knitting!After almost giving up on how to do the increase, I figured out that the increase technique for this pattern could be the "Make 1 Below". Can you confirm that this is how to do the increase AFTER the marker here? Could you please also tell me how to do it BEFORE the marker thread?
DROPS Design
21.01.2021 kl. 07:29:
Dear Adriana, you can also increase with "make 1 below" if you wish, make just sure you are working the tread as desired (leaning to the right or to the left as shown in this video. Happy knitting!After almost giving up on how to do the increase, I figured out that the increase technique for this pattern could be the "Make 1 Below". Can you confirm that this is how to do the increase AFTER the marker here? Could you please also tell me how to do it BEFORE the marker thread?
I'm afraid I don't get the increase instructions. Is your video "How to knit in stitch below and how to increase 4 or 2 stitches" relevant to increasing 1 stitch too? Or is it something totally different from the increase instruction here? Also, can you describe how to increase BEFORE MARKER THREAD? I don't understand how to "knit 1 stitch around outermost stitch on right needle (i.e. in stitch from previous round)". I wish there was a video instruction...
DROPS Design
21.01.2021 kl. 07:25:
Dear Adriana, this video shows how to increase by working the thread around the stitch on right needle (first in the video) and on left needle (2nd increase in the video). Happy knitting!INCREASE AS FOLLOWS BEFORE MARKER THREAD: Work until marker thread, then knit 1 stitch around outermost stitch on right needle (i.e. in stitch from previous round). What does the above instruction mean?
DROPS Design
04.11.2020 kl. 09:02:
Dear Jk, when you decrease for the waist at the skirt part of the dress, you have to decrease either before or after the marker threads, when decreasing before the marker thread, work until 2 stitches remain before the marker thread, then decrease working: slip 1 as if to knit, knit 1, psso (see video), slip marker = you have decrease 1 stitch before the marker thread. Happy knitting!How many balls of yarn is needed for thus dress in small size?
DROPS Design
09.10.2020 kl. 07:46:
Hi Jk. You nedd 13 skeins of yarn for size S. Happy knitting!Hej Jeg er ved at blive vanvittig over at mit Drops Muskat garn snor sig om hinanden. Forstås det ? Det er tråden jeg stikker med der snor sig om sig selv. Så jeg skal hele tiden lade strikketøjet hænge nedad i tråden og lade det dreje rundt så det snor sig op. Spørgsmål kan man gøre noget ved garnet så det undgås? Vh Ulla
DROPS Design
25.05.2020 kl. 10:57:
Hei Ulla. Det er jo kjedelig, men prøv å starte med tråden inn nøstet, eller du kan du nøste opp til en ball, og så strikke fra denne nøsteballen, evnt nøste nøste en gang til. Håper det kan være til hjelp. God Fornøyelse!Jeg tror Astrid har rett. Diagram A.1, 10. rad må være feil. Det må være én maske glattstrikk. I tillegg kan ikke rapporten starte med en økning. Den må avslutte med en, for at mønsteret skal bli riktig med tidligere knuter.
DROPS Design
29.04.2020 kl. 08:29:
Hej Sofia, ja det stemmer og diagrammerne er nu rettet :)Da strikker jeg 2 masker på hver side av de de tre maskene og da får jeg bare en rett maske i mellom ....?
DROPS Design
24.04.2020 kl. 15:55:
Hej igen Astrid.... hm... vi skal se på den pind i diagrammet... tror du har ret i at der er en maske for meget. Kommer tilbage på mandag. God weekend!