DROPS / 213 / 10

Dots and Drops Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Muskat. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, knotted pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes XS - XXL.

  • Dots and Drops Jacket / DROPS 213-10 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Muskat. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, knotted pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes XS - XXL.
  • Dots and Drops Jacket / DROPS 213-10 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Muskat. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, knotted pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes XS - XXL.
  • Dots and Drops Jacket / DROPS 213-10 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Muskat. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, knotted pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes XS - XXL.
  • Dots and Drops Jacket / DROPS 213-10 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Muskat. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, knotted pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes XS - XXL.
  • Dots and Drops Jacket / DROPS 213-10 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Muskat. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, knotted pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes XS - XXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no r-766
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-650-700-750 g colour 82, silver fox

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch and knotted pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch and knotted pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle.


DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 6-6-7-7-7-7 items.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 1.05 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.45£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.2). The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 103 stitches) minus the bands (i.e. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 20) = 4.7. 
In this example, increase from the right side by making 1 yarn over after alternatively each 4th and 5th stitch (approx.). Do not increase over the bands. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of body and mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches) slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures approx. 2 cm. Then work the other 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8½-9-8-8½-8½-9 cm between each one.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continue back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 103-107-111-119-123-127 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3mm and Muskat. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above. 
When the rib is finished, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 20-26-32-34-45-56 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 123-133-143-153-168-183 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and bands worked in garter stitch).
Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the next row; the yoke will be measured from this marker! Then work the yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work the first row from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 3 stitches), A.2 until there are 5 stitches left on the row (= 22-24-26-28-31-34 repeats of 5 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern and increase as shown in A.2. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 and A.2 have been completed there are 233-253-273-293-323-353 stitches on the needle. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.3 (= 3 stitches), A.4 until there are 5 stitches left on the row (= 22-24-26-28-31-34 repeats of 10 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern and increase as shown in A.4. After the last increase in A.4 there are 277-301-325-349-385-421 stitches on the needle.

Continue working until the piece measures 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm from the marker on the neck – NOTE: In the smallest size, A.3 and A.4 are not finished at this point and in the other sizes, A.x and A.y need to be repeated to the correct length (the patterns will continue on the body and sleeves).
Now divide the piece for the body and sleeves on the next row as follows: Work 43-47-52-55-61-68 stitches in garter stitch and pattern as before (= front piece), place the next 57-61-64-70-77-81 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work 77-85-93-99-109-123 stitches in pattern as before (= back piece), place the next 57-61-64-70-77-81 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 43-47-52-55-61-68 stitches in pattern and garter stitch as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 179-195-213-229-251-279 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 47-51-56-60-65-72 stitches in from each side (= 85-93-101-109-121-135 stitches between marker threads on the back piece). Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when decreasing on each side of the body. Now continue the pattern AT THE SAME TIME as decreasing in the sides of the body as described below:
Work A.x and A.y back and forth as before with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front making sure you continue on the right row in the diagram after the yoke and make sure the knots are worked above the knots on the yoke. The 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches cast on under each sleeve are worked in stocking stitch.
When the piece measures approx. 6 cm from the division in all sizes, finish A.x and A.y after 1 row of knots. Then continue with stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.

AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 6 cm from the division in all sizes decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 6 cm a total of 3 times on each side = 167-183-201-217-239-267 stitches.

Continue working until the piece measures 25 cm from the division in all sizes (there are 2 cm left to finished length; you can try the jacket on and work to desired length).
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 16-18-20-20-24-26 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP = 183-201-221-237-263-293 stitches (this increase prevents the rib being tight).
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, purl 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2 cm. Cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 57-61-64-70-77-81 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 65-69-72-80-87-91 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches under the sleeve and allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve. Now continue with pattern AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease mid under sleeve as follows:
Start the round at the marker thread and work A.y in the round making sure you continue on the right row in the diagram after the yoke and that the knots are worked above the knots on the yoke. The 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve are worked in stocking stitch.
When the sleeve measures 12 cm from the division in all sizes, finish A.y after a round of knots. Continue with stocking stitch in the round over all stitches.

AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2½-1½-1-1 cm a total of 7-8-9-12-14-15 times = 51-53-54-56-59-61 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 28-26-25-23-21-20 cm from the division (there are 2 cm left to finished length; you can try the jacket on and work to desired length).
NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit 1 round where you decrease 1-1-0-0-1-1 stitches = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 30-28-27-25-23-22 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 28.04.2020
New chart: A.2 - row 15.
Updated online: 15.01.2021
New diagram: A.2 - row 15.
New symbol explanation: on this row there are only 2 stitches in diagram A.1. Work A.2 until there are 6 stitches left on needle, finish with 1 stitch in stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knot: purl 3 together, do not slip the stitches from the needle but knit the same 3 stitches together and then purl them together 1 more time, then slip all 3 stitches off the left needle
symbols = increase 1 stitch by knitting 1 in the stitch from the previous row (i.e. in the loop behind the first stitch on the left needle), do not slip this stitch from the needle, then knit the stitch on the row and drop the stitch off the needle
symbols = on this row there are only 2 stitches in diagram A.1. Work A.2 until there are 6 stitches left on needle, finish with 1 stitch in stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 213-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Louizanne 26.04.2021 - 12:46:

Bonjour, Je suis perdue dans la séparation des devants et du dos. Je suis sur une taille S. Je dois tricoter les 47 mailles du 1er devant, glisser les 61 mailles suivantes sur un fil en attente, monter 8 mailles, en tricoter 85 (dos) en glisser à nouveau 61, en monter 8 & tricoter les 47 dernières mailles. J'avoue ne pas comprendre : sur le rang retour, je dois rapprocher les mailles des devants/dos que je tricote (celles qui entourent les mailles en attente), C'est ça ?

user icon DROPS Design 26.04.2021 kl. 12:57:

Bonjour Louizanne, cette leçon montre comment tricoter un pull de haut en bas et, notamment à partir de la photo 9) comment tricoter le rang de division des manches: vous glissez les mailles des manches en attente (photos 10+13), vous montez les mailles sous la manche (photos 11 +14); au rang suivant, vous tricotez les mailles du devant, celles sous la manche, celles du dos, celles sous la 2ème manche et celle du devant. Celles des manches ne seront reprises que plus tard, quand le bas du gilet sera terminé. Bon tricot!

country flag Henna 24.04.2021 - 18:11:

Hei, Piirrokset eivät näy ohjeessa.

user icon DROPS Design 05.05.2021 kl. 17:00:

Nyt piirrokset aukeavat.

country flag Nel 15.02.2021 - 14:59:

Betreft patroon r - 766. Na het meerderen in het telpatroon van A1 en A2 voor maat S heb ik het aantal steken voor maat ES. Ik ben wel begonnen met 133 steken. Maar nu 233 ipv 253 op het eind. Is dit een vaker voorkomend probleem of gewoon een fout van mij.

user icon DROPS Design 16.02.2021 kl. 14:37:

Dag Nel,

In telpatroon A.2 ga je van 5 naar 10 steken, dus per herhaling 5 steken gemeerderd. Je hebt 24 herhalingen van A.2, dus dan kom je op 120 steken er bij, dus in totaal heb je dan 253 (133 + 120).

country flag Lola 11.01.2021 - 07:16:

Entschuldigung, aber meine Frage hat sich doch noch nicht erübrigt, mein letzter Kommentar war natürlich ein Denkfehler, so dass die ursprüngliche Frage bleibt: nach den 5 Randma. fange ich die Reihe mit 2 re Ma. an, ende die Reihe vor den letzten 5 Randma. allerdings mit 3 Ma (die dann durch die zwei Zunahmen zu 5 re Ma. werden). Ich verstehe das nicht.

user icon DROPS Design 12.01.2021 kl. 11:22:

Liebe Lola, Ihre Frage wurde unseren Designteam weitergeleitet und die wird das überarbeiten - eine Korrektur erfolgt sicher bald, danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Lola 05.01.2021 - 21:57:

Hallo, Reihe 15 endet also nicht so, wie es angefangen hat? So wie ich es verstanden habe, fängt Reihe 15 mit 2 Ma rechts an, endet (laut Diagramm A2) allerdings mit 3 Ma: [1 Ma Zunahme, 1 Ma rechts, 1 Ma Zunahme]. Das wäre ja nicht mehr symmetrisch. Danke im Voraus für Ihre Hilfe.

user icon Lola 11.01.2021 kl. 06:18:

Hallo, meine Frage hat sich erübrigt. Jetzt durch die 15. Reihe erst habe ich verstanden, dass ich A1 auch in der ganzen Reihe mit A2 stricken muss (also A1 + A2 die ganze Reihe wiederholen), ich hatte nämlich A1 nur 1x nach den ersten 5 Krausmaschen gestrickt und danach bis zu den letzten 5 Krausmaschen nur noch A2 wiederholt, was bis zur 15. Reihe eigentlich kein Problem war.

country flag Helene Kraayvanger 04.01.2021 - 16:04:

T hank you for your reply. I did figure it out. Just need to learn how to read :) Sweater is almost finished. Thanks again

country flag Helene Kraayvanger 26.12.2020 - 20:47:

Can you please tell me how to increase the sts. over the yoke. I'm omitting the "bubbles" cause of the type of yarn I'm using.

user icon DROPS Design 04.01.2021 kl. 08:56:

Dear Mrs Kraayvanger, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request - thanks for your comprehension - you might try to use your favorite increase technique andn increase on row marked with an increase in diagrams. For any further individual assistance please contact the store where you bought the yarn, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

country flag Louizanne 30.11.2020 - 15:52:

Bonjour, Je m’arrache les cheveux sur les diagrammes du point fantaisie. Comment réaliser ce modèle en remplaçant le point de noeud par du jersey. D’avance merci pour votre retour.

user icon DROPS Design 30.11.2020 kl. 16:19:

Bonjour Louizanne, il vous faudra simplement augmenter aux rangs avec des augmentations comme indiqué dans les diagrammes - n'hésitez pas à exposer votre question sur les diagrammes si vous avez besoin. Votre magasin DROPS saura probablement également vous aider, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

country flag Corinne BORSOTTO 07.10.2020 - 19:54:

Merci beaucoup pour vos conseils J’ai Tout redéfait et j’ai mis des marqueurs comme conseillé C’est le rang 15 qui ne va pas 5 mailles mousse 2 mailles endroit [un point noeud (3 mailles) une augmentation une maille endroit une augmentation ] […] J’arrive à plus de 31 groupes de 8 mailles..... Merci si vous pouvez m’aider je n’arrrive pas à comprendre pourquoi

user icon DROPS Design 08.10.2020 kl. 10:05:

Bonjour Mme Borsotto, au rang 15 vous tricotez: 2 m de A.1, la maille de A.1 se tricote 3 fois pour le noeud (= la 1ère des 3 nouvelles mailles est la dernière m de A.1, les 2 autres sont les 2 premières m de A.2 = comme avant). vous augmentez 1 m dans la m suivante, tricotez 1 m, augmentez 1 m dans la m suivante, vous avez ainsi maintenant 2 m dans A.1 mais vous avez augmenté 2 mailles dans A.2; tricotez maintenant la dernière m de A.2 avec les 2 premières m du A.2 suivant et continuez ainsi. Vous aurez augmenté ainsi 2 m dans chaque A.2 à la fin de ce rang. Replacez vos marqueurs si besoin au rang suivant sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

country flag BORSOTTO 06.10.2020 - 19:42:

Bonjour Je viens de fini A1 et A2 en taille L Et je me retrouve avec 365 mailles Au lieu de 293 mailles Je ne comprends pas J’ai augmenté à chaque losange Merci de m’eclairer

user icon DROPS Design 07.10.2020 kl. 08:09:

Bonjour Mme Borsotto, en taille L, vous commencez l'empiècement avec 153 m et tricotez: 5 m point mousse, A.1 (= 3 m), 28xA.2 (= 28x5 =140m) et 5 m point mousse. Après A.2 vous avez: 5 m point mousse, A.1 (= 3 m), 28x A.2 (= 28x10), 5 m point mousse = 5+3+280+5=293 m. Vérifiez bien votre nombre de mailles dans chaque A.2, mettre un marqueur entre chaque motif à répéter aide à vérifier son nombre de mailles à chaque fois. Bon tricot!

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