DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar

White Dunes

Knitted socks in DROPS Fabel. The piece is worked top down with stocking stitch and rib. Sizes 35 – 43.

DROPS 209-22

#whitedunessocks

DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-449
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43
Foot length: approx. 22-24-27 cm. Leg height: approx. 12-13-14 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100 g colour 100, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES 2.5 MM.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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HEEL DECREASE:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work rib until there are 7-7-7 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work rib until there are 7-7-7 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work rib until there are 6-6-6 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work rib until there are 6-6-6 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece.
Continue to decrease like this, working until there is 1 stitch less each time before slipping a stitch and until there are 22-26-26 stitches left on the needle.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SOCKS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The socks are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

SOCK:
Cast on 64-68-72 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and Fabel. Knit 1 round.
The next round is worked as follows (beginning of round = mid back):

Size 35/37: Purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the round, knit 2 and finish with purl 1.

Sizes 38/40 and 41/43: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the round, purl 2 and finish with knit 1.

Continue this rib for 3 cm.
The next round is worked as follows: Work 17-19-19 stitches in rib as before, knit 30-30-34 and decrease 4 stitches evenly spaced over these 30-30-34 stitches (neatest to decrease on purled stitches), work 17-19-19 stitches in rib as before = 60-64-68 stitches on the needles.
Continue in the round with 34-38-38 stitches in rib mid-back and stocking stitch over the other stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue until the piece measures 12-13-14 cm.
Now work the heel. Keep the first 17-19-19 stitches on the needle, place the next 26-26-30 stitches on 1 thread (= top of foot) and keep the last 17-19-19 stitches on the needle = 34-38-38 stitches on the needle for the heel.
Cast on 1 new stitch at the beginning and end of the row for edge stitches = 36-40-40 stitches. Continue with rib back and forth over the heel stitches and with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When there is 1 row left before the heel measures 8-9-10 cm, cast off both edge stitches = 34-38-38 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the last row – it will be used when measuring the foot-length.
Work HEEL DECREASE – read description above! After the heel decrease work the next round as follows: Work rib as before over the 22-26-26 heel stitches, knit up 22-26-26 stitches along the side of the heel, stocking stitch as before over the 26-26-30 stitches from the thread and knit up 22-26-26 stitches along the other side of the heel = 92-104-108 stitches on the round.

Continue with rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) over the 66-78-78 stitches under the foot (start and finish with purl 2 on each side of the stocking stitches on the top of the foot), and stocking stitch as before over the 26-26-30 stitches on top of foot.
AT THE SAME TIME decrease on each side of the 26-26-30 stitches on top of foot as follows: Knit together the last 2 ribbed stitches before the 26-26-30 stitches on top of foot with the first of the stocking stitches (i.e. knit 3 together = 2 stitches decreased) and knit twisted together the last stocking stitch and the first 2 ribbed stitches after the stitches on top of foot (i.e. knit 3 stitches twisted together = 2 stitches decreased). In this way the outermost knitted stitch on each side of the top of the foot will be carried neatly down the foot.
Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 10-12-12 times = 52-56-60 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 18-19-21 cm from the marker on the heel – measured under the foot (there are approx. 4-5-6 cm left to finished length; you can try the sock on and continue to desired length).
Remove the old marker. Insert 1 new marker on each side of the sock, with 26-28-30 stitches both on top of and under the foot. These markers will be used when decreasing for the toe.
Work stocking stitch in the round over all stitches and decrease for the toe on each side of both markers as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), knit 2 twisted together. Repeat at the second marker (= 4 stitches decreased on the round).
Decrease like this on both sides every 2nd round a total of 4-6-8 times, then every round a total of 7-6-5 times = 8 stitches left in all sizes.
Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The foot measures approx. 22-24-27 cm. Work the other sock in the same way.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 209-22

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Juani wrote:

Czy po zamknięciu oczek na piętę dalej przerabiamy sciagaczem (do palców) i tam przechodzimy na dżersej dookoła?

11.11.2024 - 12:01

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj, po zamknięciu oczek na piętę, spód stopy przerabiasz ściągaczem, a wierzch dżersejem, zobacz zdjęcie. Palce przerabiasz już tylko dżersejem. Pozdrawiamy!

11.11.2024 - 18:12

country flag Alicja wrote:

Dzień dobry, dziergam trzy różne pary skarpet z włóczki Fabel i zastanawia mnie czemu w tym wzorze długość pięty w roz 35/37 ma aż 8cm skoro w innych ma ona mieć tylko 5 lub 6cm? Serdecznie pozdrawiam.

22.10.2024 - 18:46

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Alicjo, jest tak ze względu na ściągacz, gdy rozciągnie się na szerokość po nałożeniu na stopę, skróci się na długość. Pozdrawiamy!

23.10.2024 - 09:56

country flag Susanne Lihl wrote:

Was für ein schönes Muster

01.08.2024 - 15:13

country flag Hege wrote:

Hei Jeg strikker30/40. Det er når hæl er strikket, tatt opp masker på begge sider og skal felle 2 masker på hver side ved å strikke 3 masker sammen. Blir ikke vrang masker som på bildet..

25.06.2024 - 12:41

country flag Hege wrote:

Hei. Langs fellingen er det på bildet 1 eller 2 vrangmasker. Får ikke dette til å stemme. Når en skal strikke 2 fra vrangbord og en vrangmaske…

19.06.2024 - 20:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hege, hvilken størrelse strikker du og hvor er du mere nøjagtig i opskriften, så skal vi prøve at hjælpe dig :)

25.06.2024 - 12:23

country flag Tone wrote:

Litt vrient når en skal felle 3 masker, endrer jo om det er 2 r eller 2 vrange masker, men burde vel stått at det skal være 26 rette masker til tåfellinga , litt knotete ved felling

14.02.2024 - 16:45

country flag Natasja Den Blaauwen wrote:

Bij de regel ' minder zo iedere 2e naald in totaal 10-12-12 keer = 52-56-60 steken. (Zo halverwege het patroon). Dit is verwarrend. Er kan beter staan: Er staan nu nog 52-56-60 steken op de naalden.

20.01.2024 - 18:45

country flag Pat Bridger wrote:

I’m making the White Dunes socks and I’m a little confused about the decreases after the heel turn. If you have to decreases two stitches either end of the rib heel stitches, along with a stitch fir either side of the Instep, the Instep will not keep in a straight piece, it will narrow down with each of the stitches decreased? I’ve made socks for years so I understand the gusset decreaseds on a normal sock, do you not have to increase a stitch to compensate?

14.01.2023 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Pat, the pattern is correct. Because of the combination of the stocking stitch and the rib in the foot, you simply decrease the 2 stitches on each side of the instep, starting to narrow towards the toes. Happy knitting!

15.01.2023 - 12:10

country flag Zsuzsa wrote:

Just a remark: the hungarian translation is about a totally different sock pattern with 3 colours.

03.10.2021 - 21:35

country flag Lisbeth Kure wrote:

Indtagningerne i begge sider vil reducere glatmaskerne med 2 masker ved hver indtagning og det ser ikke ud som om det er meningen hvis man ser billedet.

25.02.2021 - 08:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisbeth, hvilken størrelse strikker du, hvor mange masker har du og hvor langt er du kommet i opskriften ? :)

25.02.2021 - 14:13