DROPS / 212 / 9

Pearl Pointe by DROPS Design

Knitted wrap-around jacket in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bs-156
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-250-300-300 g colour 1306, powder
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-75-100-100-100-125 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 5.55 € /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 5.55 € /50g
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.50 € /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 4.50 € /25g
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 4.50 € /25g
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.70€. Read more.

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for armholes):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase on the inside of the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work the increased stitch in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for front neck):
Increase for the neck inside the 20 stitches in A.1/A.2. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work the increased stitch in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP-3 (for sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease on the inside of the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Decrease as follows after the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the edge stitch and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for mid under sleeve):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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WRAP-AROUND JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Stitches are knitted up for the ties.
The sleeve caps are worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Then the rest of the sleeve is worked in the round with circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

BACK RIGHT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 RIDGE – read description above. Change to circular needle size 5 mm and continue with garter stitch until the piece measures approx. 2 cm; on the last row from the wrong side cast on 16-18-18-20-22-24 new stitches on the needle = 38-40-40-42-44-46 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work the back left shoulder.

BACK LEFT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge. Change to circular needle size 5 mm and continue with garter stitch until the piece measures approx. 2 cm; adjust so the last row is worked from the wrong side.
Now place the parts together and work the back piece as described below.

BACK PIECE:
Place the right and left shoulders on the same circular needle size 5 mm with the 16-18-18-20-22-24 cast-on-stitches in the middle = 60-62-62-64-66-68 stitches. Start from the right side and work 3 ridges over all stitches. Then work stocking stitch with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armholes. When the piece measures 17-14-8-12-10-7 cm increase 1 stitch on each side towards the armholes – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 4th-4th-4th-2nd-2nd-2nd row a total of 2-4-8-11-15-19 times on each side. Continue working until the piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm. Now cast on 3 new stitches for the armholes at the end of the next 2 rows = 70-76-84-92-102-112 stitches. The piece is now measured from here!
Work 4 rows of stocking stitch with 6 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side. Then work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 4 cm from the armhole decrease 1 stitch on each side – read DECREASE TIP-1 (= 2 stitches decrease). Repeat the decrease when the piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 and 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm = 64-70-78-86-96-106 stitches. When the piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm increase 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side – read INCREASE TIP-3. Repeat the increase when the piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm and 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm = 70-76-84-92-102-112 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm from the armholes and increase at the same time 8-8-9-10-12-14 stitches evenly spaced on the last row from the wrong side = 78-84-93-102-114-126 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work the next row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP. The back piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm from the shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when the piece is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge. Change to circular needle size 5 mm and work the next row from the right side as follows: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole, 2-2-2-2-2-2 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 17 stitches on the first row) = 25-25-25-25-25-25 stitches when the first row in A.1 has been worked. Continue this pattern back and forth.
When the piece measures 4 cm increase for the neck-line on the inside of A.1 towards mid front – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4th row (i.e. every 2nd row from the right side) a total of 8-8-9-11-12-13 times, every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 15-16-15-14-14-14 times and finally every 4th row 2-2-2-2-2-2 times. At the same time, when the piece measures 17-14-8-12-10-7 cm, increase 1 stitch in the side for the armhole – continue to increase in the same way as on the back piece. Continue working until the piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm and cast on 3 new stitches at the end of the next row from the wrong side. Continue as before with A.1 towards mid front, increases for neck-line and stocking stitch but, over the outermost 6 stitches towards the side, work 2 ridges (i.e. on the next 4 rows). Then continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side and A.1 towards mid front (increases continued as before). When the piece measures 4 cm from the armhole, decrease 1 stitch in the side – remember DECREASE TIP-1. Repeat the decrease when the piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 and 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm. When the piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm, increase 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on the side – remember INCREASE TIP-3. Repeat the increase when the piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm and 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm. When all the increases on the inside of A.1 are finished continue the pattern as before until the increases in the side are finished. When all the increases are finished there are 54-58-62-66-71-76 stitches on the needle. Continue working until the piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm from the armhole and increase 6-8-7-6-7-8 stitches evenly spaced = 60-66-69-72-78-84 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 20 stitches left on the row, work A.3 over the last 20 stitches (2 stitches are decreased in the diagram = 18 stitches) = 58-64-67-70-76-82 stitches. Continue the rib for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. The front piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm from the shoulder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge. Change to circular needle size 5 mm and work the next row from the right side as follows: Work A.2 (= 17 stitches on the first row), work 2-2-2-2-2-2 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole = 25-25-25-25-25-25 stitches when the first row in A.2 has been completed. Continue this pattern back and forth.
When the piece measures 4 cm increase for the neck-line on the inside of A.2 towards mid front – remember INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4th row (i.e. every 2nd row from the right side) a total of 8-8-9-11-12-13 times, every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 15-16-15-14-14-14 times and finally every 4th row 2-2-2-2-2-2 times. At the same time, when the piece measures 17-14-8-12-10-7 cm, increase 1 stitch in the side for the armhole – Continue to increase in the same way as on the back and right front piece. Continue working until the piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm and cast on 3 new stitches at the end of the next row from the right side. Continue as before with A.2 towards mid front, increases to neck-line and stocking stitch but, over the outermost 6 stitches towards the side, work 2 ridges (i.e. on the next 4 rows). Then continue with stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side and A.2 towards mid front (increases continue as before). When the piece measures 4 cm from the armhole decrease 1 stitch in the side – remember DECREASE TIP-1. Repeat the decrease when the piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 and 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm. When the piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm, increase 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on the side – remember INCREASE TIP-3. Repeat the increase when the piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm and 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm. When all the increases inside A.2 are finished continue the pattern as before until the increases in the side are finished. When all increases are finished there are 54-58-62-66-71-76 stitches on the needle. Continue working until the piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm from the armhole and increase 6-8-7-6-7-8 stitches evenly on the row = 60-66-69-72-78-84 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib as follows: A.4 over the first 20 stitches (2 stitches are decreased in the diagram = 18 stitches), * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 58-64-67-70-76-82 stitches. Continue the rib for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. The front piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 22-24-26-28-24-26 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk + 1 strand Kid-Silk. Work stocking stitch back and forth for the sleeve cap and, at the same time, cast on new stitches at the end of every row as follows: Cast on 3 stitches 1 time on each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-4-4 times on each side, 1 stitch 0-1-2-3-3-5 times on each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-4-4 times on each side and finally 3 stitches 1 time on each side = 58-62-66-70-74-80 stitches. Join the piece together and continue in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. Insert 1 marker thread at the join = mid under sleeve. The thread will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 4 cm from where it was joined, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 4-3-2-1½-1-1 cm a total of 3-4-5-6-7-9 times = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 19-18-18-17-16-14 cm from the join. Knit 1 round where you increase 2-0-1-2-0-1 stitches evenly on the round = 54-54-57-60-60-63 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 29-29-30-30-31-31 cm from the cast-on edge down. Work one more sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-on edge. Sew the side seams inside the 1 edge stitch but leave openings in both sides to thread the ties through – the openings should be 8 cm from the bottom edge and 2½–3 cm in width. Lay the sleeves under the garter stitch edge along the armholes and sew neatly from the right side (there should not be a loose edge after sewing; sew in the outermost garter stitch from the right side so the edge lies neatly outside the sleeve).

TIES:
Knit up using needle size 4 mm and 1 strand of each quality: Approx. 6-7 stitches along the ribbed edge in front; 8 cm from the bottom cast-off edge up to the first of the 6-7 stitches. On the right front piece work garter stitch back and forth until the tie measures approx. 40 cm. Cast off. On the left front piece work garter stitch back and forth until the tie measures approx. 84-94 cm. Cast off.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn twisted to avoid a hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over
= this square has no stitch; go straight to next symbol in the diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (50)

Annie Fouilhoux 21.06.2020 - 16:06:

Je souhaite réaliser le modèle de cache -coeur DROPS 21-9 en taille S mais avec des manches longues. combien dois-je rajouter de pelotes ?

DROPS Design 22.06.2020 kl. 08:36:

Bonjour Mme Fouilhoux, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. Vous pouvez vous inspirer d'un modèle de tension identique avec des manches longues. Votre magasin DROPS saura vous apporter toute l'assistance nécessaire, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Angelika 15.06.2020 - 07:43:

Wieso sollen beim Zusammennähen an beiden Seiten Schlitze für die Bindebänder offen gelassen werden? Es reicht doch eine Seite?

Pragna Amin 09.06.2020 - 14:57:

Please could you let me know if the whole jacket is kitted with 2 strands ( DROPS BABYALPACA SILK and DROPS KID-SILK

DROPS Design 09.06.2020 kl. 19:02:

Dear Mrs Amin, that's right, the jacket is worked entirely with 1 strand each quality, this means 1 strand DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk + 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk held together as there were just one. Happy knitting!

Nissi 01.05.2020 - 20:27:

Hallo, ich stricke die Größe S und habe eine Frage zum Zunahmetipp 2 rechte Vorderseite: Was genau bedeutet in Richtung vorderer Rand? Muss sich das Strickstück, wenn die Vorderseite einen auf der Nadel anschaut, nach links oder rechts erweitern? Ich hätte nach rechts erwartet... Wenn ich aber in den Hinreihen nach den ersten 20M von A1 zunehme, erweitert es sich nach links. Oder mache ich etwas falsch? Vielen Dank!

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 11:14:

Liebe Nissi, A.1 wird über die letzten Maschen bei den Hinreihen bein dem rechten Vorderteil gestrickt (von oben nach unten). Die Zunahmen werden dann vor A.1 gestrickt, dh die Reihe stricken bis die Maschen von A.1 bleiben, 1 Masche zunehmen, A.1 stricken. Hier ist es gemeint, daß A.1 für die Blende gestrickt wird. (Beim linken Vorderteil stricken Sie A.2 am Anfang den Hinreihen: bein den Zunahmen stricken Sie zuerst A.2 dann nehmen Sie 1 Masche zu, dann stricken Sie bis zur Ende der Reihe). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Netty Hoefakker 27.04.2020 - 21:09:

Ik snap hier helemaal niets van, kunt u het uitleggen? Brei verder tot het werk 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm meet en zet 3 nieuwe steken op aan het einde van de volgende naald aan de verkeerde kant. Ga zo verder als hiervoor met A.1 richting midden voor, meerderingen voor de halslijn en tricotsteek maar, over de buitenste 6 steken richting de zijkant, breit..... tot de meerderingen in de zijkant klaar zijn. dit is de omschrijving van rechtsvoor.

DROPS Design 28.04.2020 kl. 20:09:

Dag Netty,

Op een hoogte van 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm zet je steken aan de zijkant op voor het armsgat. Tegelijkertijd ga je gewoon verder met A.1 midden voor. Vlak nadat je de 3 steken voor het armsgat hebt opgezet brei je over de buitenste 6 steken, dus aan de kant van het armsgat, 2 ribbels. Die ribbels komen dus a.h.w. onder de oksels. Daarna brei je weer gewoon tricotsteek aan de zijkant, met 1 kantsteek in ribbelsteek.

Lily 19.04.2020 - 02:30:

Bonjour, Je tricote ce magnifique modèle en taille L. En revanche, je trouve étrange (dans la partie DOS) l'indication "Quand l'ouvrage mesure 17-14-8-12-10-7 cm, augmenter 1 maille de chaque côté...". N'y a t-il pas un problème d'indication pour la taille L? La longueur tricotée ne devrait-elle pas être entre 14 et 12 cm? J'ai continué à avancer un peu, mais je doute, et préfère faire une pause en attendant confirmation de ces 8 cm. Merci à vous!

DROPS Design 20.04.2020 kl. 10:16:

Bonjour Lily, c'est tout à fait juste ainsi, vous commencez à augmenter à 8 cm en taille L et augmentez 8 fois tous les 4 cm. Il vous faut commencer plus tôt qu'en taille M (moins d'augmentations tous les 4 rangs) ou XL (plus d'augmentations mais tous les 2 rangs=) pour avoir la bonne hauteur. Bon tricot!

Ragnhild 06.04.2020 - 10:37:

Jeg holder på å strikke denne jakken. Har nettopp begynt, og satt sammen høyre og venstre skulder bak på samme pinnen med opplagte masker til hals i midten. Synes dette ser veldig rart ut, har dere et bilde av hvordan jakken skal se ut bak? Jeg ser at det ligger et bilde der, men håret til modellen dekker over akkurat det området jeg lurer på! Tusen takk for svar :-)

DROPS Design 21.04.2020 kl. 12:24:

Hej Ragnhild, vi har desværre ikke flere billeder, du har de 2 skulderstykker med de nye masker imellem, nu fortsætter du over alle masker frem og tilbage. God fornøjelse!

Wiesje Aukema 01.03.2020 - 14:42:

Wat wordt bedoeld met BINNENKANT van A1 meerderen aan de halslijn. (Zie rechtervoorpand.)\r\nIs dat hetzelfde als; richting halslijn?

DROPS Design 04.03.2020 kl. 15:34:

Dag Wiesje,

Hiermee wordt bedoeld dat je aan de kant van het pand meerdert, dus niet bij de bies maar tussen A.1 en het gedeelte in tricotsteek.

Joop 26.02.2020 - 21:16:

På Montering ”Lämna hål till knytband i *varje sida*.”. ska det inte vara bara i den ena sidan ... på bilden ser det ut som att knytbandet från den innersta framstycket går igenom sidhålet och sedan runt på baksidan och knyts ihop med det andra knytbandet som är fastsytt i det yttersta framstycket...

DROPS Design 27.02.2020 kl. 08:58:

Hej, jo fast det beror på om du vill ha bandet innanför tröjan på ryggen eller som på bilden :)

Joop 23.02.2020 - 12:26:

I am confused. Increases inside A1 -8 every 4th +15 every other +2 every 4th ...= 25 increases... I have 54 stitches... I have 3 increases too many inside A1 (I assumed the increasing repeats) 2 increases left in the side. If I take away 3 stitches that were too many I have 51 stitches + remaining 2 = 53... it should be 54 by now.... is it a mistake in the numbers? Perhaps it should be 8+15+3....?

DROPS Design 24.02.2020 kl. 09:04:

Dear Mrs Joop, could you please tell us which size you are working on? It would be then easier to check. Thank you!

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