DROPS / 205 / 50

Rise Up by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with raglan, lace pattern, vents in the sides and double moss stitch on sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern sk-055
Yarn group B and A
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-250-300-350-350 g colour 01, white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
15 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 3.45 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 3.45 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 3.45 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.45£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 72 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 20) = 3.6. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. A.3 applies to KNITTING TIP-2.

KNITTING TIP-1:
If you do not want bobbles in lace pattern work the stitch with symbol for bobble in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP-2:
On the model on photo the eyelet rows in raglan lines end when increases for raglan are done. If you want to continue the eyelet row along the entire raglan line (down to where yoke is divided into body and sleeves), work A.3 in every transition between body and sleeves when raglan increases are done (marker is in the middle stitch in A.3).

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves (i.e. Increase on each side of the 4 markers) as follows: Begin 1 stitch before stitch marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 3 (marker is in the middle of these 3 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at every marker and 8 stitches increased in total on round.)
On next round knit the yarn overs to make holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch on front and back piece and in double moss stitch (A.1) on sleeves.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Begin 3 stitches before marker thread, knit 2 twisted together, work 2 stitches in garter stitch (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), knit 2 together (= 2 stitches decreased).

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body in the round on circular needle until division for vent in each side. Then work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. Work the entire garment with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 72-72-78-84-84-90 stitches on a short circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand Sky and 2 strands Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). Remove one strand with Kid-Silk and continue with 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands).
Work rib in the round = knit 3/purl 3 for 3 cm. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. Then knit 1 round while increasing 20-28-30-28-28-30 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 92-100-108-112-112-120 stitches. Insert 1 marker on round. Work yoke as explained below - measure yoke from marker!

YOKE:
Read all of the following section on yoke before working! Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Insert 4 markers in piece as follows (without working the stitches): Insert 1 marker in the second stitch on round, count 9 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next stitch, count 35-39-43-45-45-49 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker in next stitch, count 9 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next stitch. 34-38-42-44-44-48 stitches remain on round after last marker (= back piece). Use markers when increasing for raglan.
Work first round as follows: Work 3 stitches in stocking stitch (marker is in the middle of these 3 stitches), work A.1A over the 6 next stitches, work A.1B (= 1 stitch), work 3 stitches in stocking stitch (marker is in the middle of these 3 stitches), work 5-7-8-9-7-9 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.2 (= 23-23-25-25-29-29 stitches), work 5-7-8-9-7-9 stitches in stocking stitch, work 3 stitches in stocking stitch (marker is in the middle of these 3 stitches), work A.1A over the next 6 stitches, work A.1B (= 1 stitch), work 3 stitches in stocking stitch (marker is in the middle of these 3 stitches), work 5-7-8-9-7-9 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.2 (= 23-23-25-25-29-29 stitches), and finish with 5-7-8-9-7-9 stitches in stocking stitch.
Continue pattern like this - READ KNITTING TIP-1 AND REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase for RAGLAN on each side of the 4 markers - read explanation above. Increase for raglan every other round 16-18-19-21-23-25 times in total. After last increase there are 220-244-260-280-296-320 stitches on needle.
Read KNITTING TIP-2 and continue without increases until piece measures approx. 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from marker in the neck.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves, i.e. work last round as follows:
SIZE S and XXL: Work as before to and with the first stitch with marker, slip the next 41-55 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work as before over the next 69-93 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 41-55 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), and work as before the rest of the round (= back piece). Cut the yarn and remove the markers in raglan lines.
SIZE M and XL: Work as before until the first stitch with marker, slip the next 47-53 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work as before over the next 75-87 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 47-53 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), and work as before the rest of the round (= back piece). Cut the yarn and remove the markers in raglan lines.
SIZE L: Slip the first 51 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work as before over the next 79 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 51 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), and work as before the rest of the round (= back piece). Cut the yarn and remove the markers in raglan lines.
SIZE XXXL: Work as before over the 3 stitches in raglan line (i.e. to and with stitch after stitch with marker), slip the next 57 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work as before over the next 103 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 57 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under sleeve), and work as before the rest of the round (= back piece). Cut the yarn and remove the markers in raglan lines.
ALL SIZES:
Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 150-162-174-190-206-226 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under sleeve in each side (= 75-81-87-95-103-113 stitches on front piece and 75-81-87-95-103-113 stitches on back piece).
Begin round at one of the marker threads and work next round as follows: Work 3 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, work 23-26-28-32-34-39 stitches in stocking stitch, continue A.2 as before, work 23-26-28-32-34-39 stitches in stocking stitch, work 6 stitches in garter stitch (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), work 23-26-28-32-34-39 stitches in stocking stitch, continue A.2 as before, work 23-26-28-32-34-39 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern like this until piece measures 16 cm from division under sleeves (approx. 20 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jumper on and work to desired length).
Now divide the piece at the marker threads in the sides, i.e. work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately until finished measurements (make sure to divide the piece after working 1 round with pattern to avoid the pattern getting on the wrong side).

FRONT PIECE:
= 75-81-87-95-103-113 stitches. Continue pattern as before, i.e. work first row as follows from wrong side: Work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work 23-26-28-32-34-39 stitches in stocking stitch, continue A.2 as before, work 23-26-28-32-34-39 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Work until piece measures 34 cm from division (or desired length, approx. 2 cm remain until finished measurements). Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work 3 ridges in garter stitch back and forth over all stitches (work 1st row from right side). Loosely cast off by knitting from right side but to avoid a tight cast-off edge cast off with 1 strand Sky and 2 strands Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). Jumper measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from shoulder and down.

BACK PIECE:
= 75-81-87-95-103-113 stitches. Continue pattern as before, i.e. work first row as follows from wrong side: Work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work 23-26-28-32-34-39 stitches in stocking stitch, continue A.2 as before, work 23-26-28-32-34-39 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Work until piece measures approx. 34 cm from division (adjust according to front piece). Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work 3 ridges in garter stitch back and forth over all stitches (work 1st row from right side). Loosely cast off by knitting from right side the same way as on front piece.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 41-47-51-53-55-57 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 6 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 47-53-59-61-65-67 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches under sleeve and move the marker thread upwards when working. Use marker thread later when decreasing under sleeve.
Begin round at the marker thread and work as follows: Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, continue A.1A in the round until 2 stitches remain on round (make sure that pattern continue correctly according to yoke), work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3-3-3-3-2-2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-1½-1½-1½ cm 5-7-9-9-10-10 times in total = 37-39-41-43-45-47 stitches.
Work until piece measures approx. 41-40-38-36-35-33 cm from division (approx. 2 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jumper on and work to desired length). NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Work 4 rounds rib (= knit 1/purl 1) but adjust rib so that first round is worked purl over knit and knit over purl in A.1. After 4 rounds with rib loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid a tight cast-off edge cast off with 1 strand Sky and 2 strands Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). Sleeve measures approx. 43-42-40-38-37-35 cm from division under sleeve. Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 23.10.2019
New text under chart icon for bobble.

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs, on next round/row work one yarn over in stocking stitch and drop the other yarn over off the needle (= big hole)
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
= Bobble: Work like this in the same stitch: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over*, work from *-* 3 times in total, knit 1 in same stitch (= 7 stitches in bobble). Work 4 rows in stocking stitch back and forth over these 7 stitches (work first row from wrong side). After last row pass 6th stitch over 7th stitch, 5th stitch over 7th stitch, 4th stitch over 7th stitch etc. until 1 stitch remains.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 205-50) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

House 21.10.2019 - 06:09:

Bonjour. Je voudrais tricoter ce modèle avec le fil sky uniquement. Par conséquent je le tricoterai avec des aiguilles n°4. Pouvez-vous m'aider pour convertir le nombre de mailles, d'augmentations etc.. merci beaucoup d'avance.

DROPS Design 21.10.2019 kl. 11:48:

Bonjour Mme House, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. On tricote ici avec 1 fil Sky + 1 fil Kid-Silk, vous pouvez remplacer le fil Kid-Silk par un autre fil du groupe A si vous le souhaitez, tant que vous avez le même échantillon. Bon tricot!

Diana 20.10.2019 - 09:25:

Please delete my previous comment, I was reading the pattern wrong lol

Diana 20.10.2019 - 09:16:

Neck edge has 92 stitches for size s, but start of the yoke is 89... please advise.

DROPS Design 21.10.2019 kl. 12:49:

Dear Diana, yoke starts with 92 sts: 1 stitch, 1 stitch with marker, 9 sts (sleeve), 1 stitch with marker, 35 sts (front piece), 1 stitch with marker, 9 sts (sleeve), 1 stith with marker, 34 sts (back piece) = 1+1+9+1+35+1+9+1+34= 92 sts. Happy knitting!

Anna Maria 08.10.2019 - 19:25:

Come fare per lavorarlo dal basso verso l'alto

DROPS Design 08.10.2019 kl. 19:30:

Buonasera Anna Maria, questo modello è stato disegnato per essere lavorato top down, cioè dall'alto in basso e non ci è possibile riscrivere le istruzioni per un'altra costruzione, ma nel nostro sito troverà sicuramente altri modelli con la costruzione che preferisce. Buon lavoro!

Claire 31.08.2019 - 17:39:

J'adore ce modèle ! Assez large et comfortable , et en même temps il est très élégant !

Abelia 23.06.2019 - 23:55:

J’aime bien le motif ajouré (sans les noppes) et la forme de ce pull. Mais ce que je préfère c’est le point des manches qui contraste avec le reste du modèle.

Ellis 09.06.2019 - 20:48:

Do not like holes near raglan. they can be left out, please option in pattern?

Renata 07.06.2019 - 21:03:

Uroczy, czekam.

Ula 06.06.2019 - 14:28:

Ten sam model był w wiosennej kolekcji ale nie pojawił się schemat wzoru a bardzo na niego czekałam, mam nadzieję, że teraz się pojawi tłumaczenie.

Elżbieta 06.06.2019 - 09:56:

Bardzo fajny!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 205-50

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.