DROPS / 206 / 15

Frambuesa by DROPS Design

Knitted long jacket in DROPS Nepal. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern and moss stitch on the yoke, with A-shape and pockets. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-315
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
750-800-900-950-1050-1150 g colour 8910, raspberry rose

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
Pattern A.2 measures approx. 16-16-16-20-20-20 cm in height.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 80 cm for edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTONS, (angular) NO 537: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2). The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 27) = 2.7. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body and sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next row/round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

RAGLAN:
When the yoke is finished, work a small raglan before dividing the piece for body and sleeves. All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the 4 markers in each transition between front/back pieces and sleeves as described below (= 8 stitches increased on the row). Work until 1 stitch remain before first marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased on each side of marker). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves): 
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 2 cm. Then work the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 10-10-10-9-9-9 cm between each one.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle; or make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as casting off (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, then the yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/ short circular needle, top down. Finally the pockets are worked separately and then sewn onto the front pieces.

NECK:
Cast on 84-88-92-92-96-100 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Nepal. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.1 (= 5 band stitches), * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with A.1 (= 5 band stitches). Continue this rib for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm; remember the BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above.
When the rib is finished, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 27-33-29-39-47-43 stitches evenly spaced - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 111-121-121-131-143-143 stitches. Insert 1 marker after the 5 band stitches at the beginning of the row; the yoke will be measured from this marker! Purl 1 row from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and band stitches worked in A.1). Now work yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work the next row from the right side as follows. Continue A.1 over the 5 band stitches, work A.2A (= 6-6-6-7-7-7 stitches), A.2B until there are 10-10-10-11-11-11 stitches left on the row (= 9-10-10-9-10-10 repeats of 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches), work A.2C (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 stitches) and finish with A.1 over the 5 band stitches. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on each row marked with an arrow in A.2A increase stitches evenly spaced as described below – remember INCREASE TIP-1 (always increase on a row from the wrong side).
Arrow-1: Increase 40-40-40-48-48-48 stitches evenly spaced = 151-161-161-179-191-191 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 40-40-40-48-48-48 stitches evenly spaced = 191-201-201-227-239-239 stitches.
Arrow-3: Increase 30-30-30-36-36-36 stitches evenly spaced = 221-231-231-263-275-275 stitches.
Arrow-4: Increase 4-6-6-10-2-14 stitches evenly spaced = 225-237-237-273-277-289 stitches.
When A.2 has been completed in height the piece measures approx. 16-16-16-20-20-20 cm from the marker on the neck. If the piece is shorter than this, continue working stocking stitch and A.1 over the band stitches to the right length. Then increase to a small raglan as described below.

RAGLAN:
Insert 4 markers in the piece for the increases to raglan. The markers are inserted without working the stitches; the first marker after the first 39-40-40-46-48-51 stitches (= front piece), 2nd marker inserted after the next 40-44-44-50-48-48 stitches (= sleeve), 3rd marker inserted after the next 67-69-69-81-85-91 stitches (= back piece) and the 4th marker after the next 40-44-44-50-48-48 stitches (= sleeve). There are 39-40-40-46-48-51 stitches left on the front piece after the last marker.
Work stocking stitch. AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side increase to RAGLAN on each side of the 4 markers – read description above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 2-4-6-4-6-8 times = 241-269-285-305-325-353 stitches. Continue working without further increases until the piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the marker on the neck.
Now divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows: Work 41-44-46-50-54-59 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 44-52-56-58-60-64 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve and cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 71-77-81-89-97-107 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 44-52-56-58-60-64 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve and cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 41-44-46-50-54-59 stitches as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 165-177-189-205-225-245 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 44-47-50-54-59-64 stitches in from each side (= sides of body). There are 77-83-89-97-107-117 stitches between marker threads on the back piece. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Work stocking stitch back and forth and 5 band stitches in A.1 on each side towards mid front – remember the buttonholes on the right band.
When the piece measures 5 cm from the division in all sizes increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 5 cm a total of 8 times on each side = 197-209-221-237-257-277 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 45 cm from the division in all sizes (there is approx. 3 cm to finished length; you can try the jacket on and work to desired length).
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands worked in A.1) and increase at the same time 40-43-41-45-50-55 stitches evenly spaced on this row = 237-252-262-282-307-332 stitches. This is done to avoid the edge being tight.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work the next row as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in A.1, work A.3 until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in A.1. Continue like this until the edge measures 3 cm. Cast off with knit from the right side – read CASTING OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 44-52-56-58-60-64 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle or double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 50-58-64-66-70-74 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches under the sleeve (allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve).
Start the round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 3-2-2--2-3-3 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-1½-1-1 cm a total of 4-7-9-9-10-11 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 16-16-16-15-15-15 cm from the division increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 6-7-5-6-3-3½ cm a total of 4-3-4-3-5-4 times = 50-50-54-54-60-60 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-37-36-34-32-31 cm from the division (there is approx. 3 cm left to finished length; you can try the jacket on and work to desired length). NOTE: Shorter lengths in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round where you increase 0-0-1-1-0-0 stitches = 50-50-55-55-60-60 stitches.  
Change to double pointed needles or short circular needle size 4.5 mm and work A.3 for 3 cm. Cast off with knit – remember CASTING OFF TIP!
The sleeve measures approx. 42-40-39-37-35-34 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto the left band. 

POCKET:
Cast on 33-33-33-39-39-39 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 mm and Nepal. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, work A.2A (= 6-6-6-7-7-7 stitches), A.2B over the next 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches (= 2 repeats of 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches), A.2C (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 stitches) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern until the second border of moss stitch has been completed. Then work stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the pocket measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm. Cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other pocket in the same way.
Place 1 pocket on each front piece approx. 8 to 13 cm from the outermost edge of the band mid front and edge-to-edge with the transition between stocking stitch and the edge at the bottom of the jacket – see photo (you can try the jacket on and move the pocket if you wish). Sew the pockets onto the front pieces inside the 1 edge stitch on the pockets.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 206-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Margarita 27.09.2020 - 17:18:

Leicht verständliche und schnell umzusetzende Anleitung. Vielen lieben Dank für die kostenfreie Verfügung. My best regards to all the fans of wool

Coco 23.09.2020 - 11:32:

Bonjour concernant l\'empiècement il est indiqué que nous devons faire 10 fois A.2B mais après avoir fait les augmentations de la flèche 1 nous devons donc augmenter le nombre de motifs?\r\nMerci beaucoup pour votre réponse.

DROPS Design 23.09.2020 kl. 14:26:

Bonjour Coco, effectivement, vous devez continuer le point fantaisie comme avant, mais à chaque fois sur davantage de mailles, autrement dit, vous avez A.1 pour la bordure devant comme avant, 1 fois A.2A, vous répétez A.2B jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 6 ou 7 mailles (selon la taille) et terminez par A.2C (5 ou 6 m selon la taille) et A.1 pour la bordure devant. Bon tricot!

Maminouchka 14.09.2020 - 13:21:

Pour rabattre les poignets de manière souple et jolie, utiliser le lien "Rabattre à l'islandaise".

Thu Anh Phan 23.06.2020 - 00:00:

Hei ! Skal man regne med halskant når man strikket ferdig i høydenav bærestrykket? Jeg holde på jakker Drops 206-15

DROPS Design 24.06.2020 kl. 07:55:

Hei Thu, Bærestykket skal måles fra merket som er rett etter halsen - så halsen er ikke inkludert i målene. God fornøyelse!

Maria Selvarolo 11.05.2020 - 15:38:

Buon giorno! Vorrei sapere se è possibile lavorare questa giacca con i ferri dritti, visto che è una giacca aperta. Grazie!

DROPS Design 13.05.2020 kl. 16:41:

Buongiorno Maria. Il capo è lavorato dall'alto verso il basso. Soprattutto sullo sprone il numero delle maglie è alto ed è per questo che vengono consigliati i ferri circolari piuttosto che quelli dritti. La lavorazione sui ferri dritti potrebbe risultare non particolarmente comoda, Buon lavoro!

Johanna 01.04.2020 - 21:13:

Graag wil ik weten wat het nut is van steken meerderen onderaan het vest en dan met een dunnere naald verder breien. Is dat niet hetzelfde als gewoon doorgaan ? Alvast bedankt !

DROPS Design 04.04.2020 kl. 19:04:

Dag Johanna,

Op deze manier brei je de boord met dezelfde naalddikte, en dus met hetzelfde visuele effect, als op de mouw. Vermoedelijk is dit de reden dat de ontwerper het zo bedacht heeft.

Mandy 31.01.2020 - 13:40:

I tried to download this pattern, but the pattern diagrams, A.1, A.2b, etc, are not showing. No images at all showing

DROPS Design 31.01.2020 kl. 14:39:

Dear Mandy, we could successfully print this pattern, tried to first check your printer's settings, then refresch your browser and delete cookies. Hope this helps! Happy knitting!

Denise 18.11.2019 - 00:29:

Hi, Is this pattern available in 8ply yarn? Or, is there a similar pattern in 8ply? Thanks Denise

DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 10:51:

Dear Denise, you can search a pattern using a yarn group B. Happy knitting!

Carla 20.08.2019 - 14:28:

Dit vind ik een heel mooi patroon, wordt het ook vertaald naar het Nederlands?

DROPS Design 01.09.2019 kl. 12:13:

Dag Carla,

Het patroon is inmiddels vertaald naar het Nederlands. :) Veel breiplezier!

Evelyn Wendt 17.06.2019 - 14:26:

Rigtig flot og lige det jeg mangler. Kan næsten ikke vente med at komme i gang med at strikke den - og denne gang til mig selv.

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