DROPS / 205 / 18

Reykjavik by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with Nordic Icelandic pattern and raglan in DROPS Lima. The piece is worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Reykjavik / DROPS 205-18 - Knitted jumper with Nordic Icelandic pattern and  raglan in DROPS Lima. The piece is worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Reykjavik / DROPS 205-18 - Knitted jumper with Nordic Icelandic pattern and  raglan in DROPS Lima. The piece is worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Reykjavik / DROPS 205-18 - Knitted jumper with Nordic Icelandic pattern and  raglan in DROPS Lima. The piece is worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no li-110
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour 0100, off white
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour 0519, dark grey

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.
Pattern A.1 is worked in rib.
Patterns A.2 to A.6 are worked in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 88 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 11. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 11th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Start from the wrong side with off-white and purl 9-9-9-10-11-11 stitches past the marker thread in the middle of the back, turn, tighten strand and knit 18-18-18-20-22-22 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and purl 27-27-27-30-33-33 stitches, turn, tighten strand and knit 36-36-36-40-44-44 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and purl 45-45-45-50-55-55 stitches, turn, tighten strand and knit 54-54-54-60-66-66 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and purl 17-17-17-17-21-21 stitches past the marker thread in the middle of the back. Move the marker thread here. Then work YOKE as described in the text.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

CASTING OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a ½ size larger needle.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together with off-white, (marker thread sits here), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 with off-white and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck, yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down.
After the neck you can work an elevation to make the neck slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck will then be the same front and back – see description in text. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 88-92-96-104-108-112 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and dark grey. Change to off-white and knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 4 cm. Now work A.1 in rib.
Knit 1 round with off-white where you increase 8-4-0-8-20-16 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 96-96-96-112-128-128 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round, or in the middle of the back if you want to work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – read description above or go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
The first round is worked as follows: Work A.2 (= 1 stitch), A.3 over the next 32-32-32-32-40-40 stitches (= 4-4-4-4-5-5 repeats of 8 stitches) and A.4 (= 1 stitch) = back piece, work A.5 (= 2 stitches) = raglan-line, A.2 (= 1 stitch), A.3 over the next 8-8-8-16-16-16 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repeats of 8 stitches) and A.4 (= 1 stitch) = sleeve, work A.5 (= 2 stitches) = raglan-line, A.2 (= 1 stitch), A.3 over the next 32-32-32-32-40-40 stitches (= 4-4-4-4-5-5 repeats of 8 stitches) and A.4 (= 1 stitch) = front piece, work A.5 (= 2 stitches) = raglan-line, A.2 (= 1 stitch), A.3 over the next 8-8-8-16-16-16 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repeats of 8 stitches) and A.4 (= 1 stitch) = sleeve. Finally work A.5 (= 2 stitches) = raglan-line. There are now 104-104-104-120-136-136 stitches on the needle (= the first increase to raglan is finished).
Continue this pattern; i.e. increase 1 stitch on each side of A.2/A.4 (= a total of 8 stitches increased every 2nd round). Read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.2 to A.4 have been worked 1 time in height there are 176-176-176-192-208-208 stitches on the needle.
Continue, repeating the patterns as shown in A.2/A.4. Diagram A.3 is worked 2 more times in width each time the 16 rows are repeated in height. Continue increasing like this for a total of 22-26-30-32-32-34 times on each side of A.2/A.4. When the last increase is finished there are 272-304-336-368-384-400 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 17-20-23-25-25-26 cm from the neck-edge. Continue the pattern as before but without further increases until the piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the neck.
The next round is worked as follows:
Work 80-88-96-102-110-116 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 56-64-72-80-80-80 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-8-16-16 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 80-88-96-104-112-120 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 56-64-72-80-80-80 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-8-16-16 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the last 0-0-0-2-2-4 stitches as before (= back piece). Cut the strand. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 176-192-208-224-256-272 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread on the one side of the piece, in the middle of the 8-8-8-8-16-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it marks the beginning of the round. Work A.6 in the round (= 22-24-26-28-32-34 repeats of 8 stitches) – start with the correct stitch and row in the diagram so the pattern is repeated as before in both width and height.
Continue working until the piece measures approx. 24 cm from the division – adjust to after a complete repeat in height. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and knit 1 round with off-white where you increase 36-36-40-44-48-52 stitches evenly spaced = 212-228-248-268-304-324 stitches. Work A.1 in rib (= knit 2/ purl 2). When A.1 has been completed, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl using dark grey – read CASTING OFF TIP.

SLEEVE:
Place the 56-64-72-80-80-80 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-8-16-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 64-72-80-88-96-96 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-8-16-16 new stitches and allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve. Start the round by the marker thread and work A.6 in the round (= 8-9-10-11-12-12 repeats of 8 stitches) – start with the correct stitch and row in the diagram so the pattern is repeated as before in both width and height, but the first and last stitch of the round are always worked with off-white (to give neat decreases under the sleeve).
When the piece measures 2 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-2½-2-1½-1-1 cm a total of 11-14-17-20-23-22 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches left on needles. Continue working until the piece measures 41-39-38-36-34-33 cm from the division – or to desired length; there is approx. 4 cm left to finished length. NOTE: shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke – adjust so you finish after a complete repeat in height. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and knit 1 round with off-white where you increase 2-0-2-0-2-0 stitches evenly spaced = 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches. Work A.1 in rib (= knit 2/ purl 2). When A.1 has been completed, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl using dark grey – remember CASTING OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck to the wrong side. Sew the cast-on edge down using dark grey – sew small, neat stitches on the inside of the jumper (make sure the seam does not show on the right side and the seam is not tight).

Diagram

symbols = off white
symbols = dark grey
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = shows 1 repeat in height and how the patterns are positioned above each other
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 205-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (57)

country flag Beatrice Norrgård 16.05.2021 - 21:27:

Är det verkligen möjligt att man bara stickar 24 cm efter delning på fram och bakstycket?

country flag Mari Nydahl Nilssen 19.04.2021 - 22:17:

Hei. Nå skal jeg begynne på mønsteret, men jeg syns det ser ut som mønsteret blir feil i forhold til hvordan genseren ser ut til slutt? De første 6 omgangene med mønster havner to bokser ved siden av hverandre, og sånn er det ikke i virkeligheten? På bilde er det «boks» «strek» «boks» «strek», men oppskriften viser «boks» «strek» «boks» «boks» «strek». Hvordan skal dette bli riktig?

user icon DROPS Design 03.05.2021 kl. 10:36:

Hei Mari. På bildet ser du det du forklarer "«boks» «strek» «boks» «boks» «strek» og raglanlinjen (blir et lite hvit felt øverst ved høyre skulder). Det er det samme som er forklart i oppskriften med diagrammene. mvh DROPS design

country flag Siri 03.04.2021 - 13:10:

Dette var en FORFERDELIG vanskelig oppskrift å forstå, selv for meg som har strikket daglig de siste 50 årene. Til spørsmålet: Har lagt opp for 2XL, dvs 108 masker. Etter halskanten er økt til 128 og når jeg da begynner på mønsteret og skal strikke første omgang får jeg 8 masker til overs. Har trippelsjekket og får samme antall hver gang. Skjønner ikke hva som skjer.

user icon DROPS Design 07.04.2021 kl. 08:29:

Hei Siri, Den første pinnen er: A.2 = 1 maske, 40 masker med A.3, A.4 = 1 maske, A.5 = 2 masker, A.2 = 1 maske, 16 masker med A.3, A.4 = 1 maske, A.5 = 2 masker, A.2 = 1 maske, 40 masker med A.3, A.4 = 1 maske, A.5 = 2 masker, A.2 = 1 maske, 16 masker med A.3, A.4 = 1 maske, A.5 = 2 masker. I alle A.2 og A.4 øker du 1 maske slik at du får økning til raglan på hver side av A.5 som er raglanlinje. Totalt skal du ha 136 masker etter den første pinnen. God fornøyelse!

country flag Lone Cort Hansen 29.03.2021 - 22:31:

Strikker str. L og har et ? Til bærestykket. Der står når alle udtagninger er lavet er maskeantal 336 og mål fra halskant 23 cm. Jeg skal herefter strikke videre uden udtagning til arbejdet også måler 23 cm. Dette kan jo ikke være det samme? Hvad skal det måle inden jeg deler arbejdet?

user icon DROPS Design 19.04.2021 kl. 13:24:

Hei Lone. Det skrives flere størrelser samtidig og i str L og XL er økningene ferdig på samme mål som når arbeidet skal deles. Har du f.eks strikket str. S skal arbeidet måle ca 17 cm etter økningene og man skal strikke 2 cm før delingen. Så når du er ferdig med økningene og arbeidet måler 23 cm skal du på neste omgang strikkes slik: Strikk 80-88-96-102-110-116 masker som før (= bakstykke), sett de neste 56-64-72-80-80-80 maskene på 1 tråd til erme, .... osv. mvh DROPS design

country flag Jeanett Molland 27.03.2021 - 18:36:

Utrolig god genser! Strikket i L, passet perfekt, måtte strikke bolen 13 cm lenger og ermene 4 cm lenger, ellers hadde den blitt for kort.

country flag Lone Cort 25.03.2021 - 14:18:

Hej jeg synes det er svært at gennemskue om raglan løber over 4 eller 6 masker og om disse skal strikkes i den lyse farve?

user icon DROPS Design 26.03.2021 kl. 14:09:

Hej Lone, A.5 er selve raglanlinjen som består af 2 lyse masker og så strikker du udtagningerne på hver side af de 2 masker men ifølge diagrammerne. God fornøjelse!

country flag HS 14.03.2021 - 15:38:

Hei, jeg har prøvd å starte på omgang to på bolen med mønster (str S) gang på gang, og det blir alltid feil og jeg ender opp med masker til overs når runden er ferdig. Jeg har fått riktig maskeantall etter 1. omgang (som står beskrevet i oppskriften), men tolker det som at andre omgang strikkes uten økninger og deretter er det økninger igjen på 3. omgang - dvs. at det økes med 8 masker i annenhver omgang, altså at det kun økes på omgang nr. 1-3-5-7-9-11-13-15-17-19?

country flag Maria 06.03.2021 - 20:15:

Hei. Jeg stikker størrelse M og er nå på bærestykket. Jeg har 304 masker og skal sette maskene til ermene på en tråd. Ved omgangsstart sitter maskemarkøren til venstre for de to raglanmasker. Når jeg da teller 88 masker til bakstykke så tas begge de neste raglanmasker med, men da blir det vel skjevt fordelt? Dette forskyver seg også videre. Spørsmålet mitt er egentlig: skal raglanmaskene settes av sammen med ermene eller forsettes å strikkes sammen med bak- og forstykke?

country flag Inger Lisbeth Friberg 28.01.2021 - 22:15:

Oppskriften må være feil. Strikker M og det er feil utregning. Det må være flere masker enn oppgitt på for og bakstykket med første utlegg. Jeg får igjen masker. Din utregning er på totalt 96 masker med 32 masker på for og bakstykke. 16 masker til ermene og raglan totalt 16 masker = 96 masker med uttagning.Det må enten være 34 masker på for og bakstykke.

country flag Heidi 12.01.2021 - 13:20:

Min mor strikket denne i M, da jeg bruker M og S i alle andre gensere jeg kjøper, og denne var så trang at hun må opp i XL, hva er dette for noen størrelser? Hun har brukt flere måneder og når må hun strikke ny bare fordi størrelsene her er helt merkelige. Dere fortjener gullbarbien. Nå er jeg virkelig forbanna, skal aldri bruke drops igjen!

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