Winter Twilight by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked bottom up with Nordic/Icelandic pattern, double neck and sewn-in sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: bottom up, colourwork, double neck, islender, jumper, long sleeves, nordic, round neck, sewn in sleeves, stocking stitch

DROPS 243-27
DROPS Design: Pattern me-270
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g colour 07 light taupe
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour 01, off white

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch/Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
A.1 is worked in rib, A.2 in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP (sleeves):
Start 1 stitch before the marker-thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes (= 2 increased stitches). The new stitches are worked into the pattern.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up, as far as the armholes. The front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles / short circular needle, bottom up as far as the armhole, then the sleeve cap is finished back and forth with short circular needle. The neck is worked to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 212-228-248-264-300-316 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and colour light taupe DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) and A.1.
When A.1 is finished, the rib measures approx. 5 cm.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Knit 3 rounds with colour light taupe at the same time as you decrease 20-20-24-24-28-28 stitches evenly on the first round = 192-208-224-240-272-288 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker-thread after 96-104-112-120-136-144 stitches (= sides). Allow the threads to follow your work onwards.
Work A.2 over all stitches. When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm, cast off for the armholes as follows: Start 4-4-4-4-8-8 stitches before the first marker-thread, cast off 8-8-8-8-16-16 stitches, work until there are 4-4-4-4-8-8 stitches left before the next marker-thread, cast off 8-8-8-8-16-16 stitches, work to end of round. The back and front pieces are finished separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 88-96-104-112-120-128 stitches. Start from the wrong side and continue the pattern, with the 3 outermost stitches on each side worked in light taupe. When the piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm, cast off the middle 30-32-34-38-40-42 stitches for the neckline (cast off on a row without pattern) and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 28-31-34-36-39-42 shoulder stitches. Work until the piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm (last row is without pattern). Cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 88-96-104-112-120-128 stitches. Start from the wrong side and continue working in the same way as the back piece, until the front measures 50-50-52-53-55-56 cm. Place the middle 24-26-28-32-30-28 stitches on a thread for the neck (on a row without pattern) and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: 2 stitches 1-0-1-1-1-2 times and 1 stitch 2-4-2-2-4-4 times = 28-31-34-36-39-42 shoulder stitches. Work until the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm (match the back piece). Cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 56-56-60-60-64-64 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and colour light taupe. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) and A.1. When A.1 is finished, the rib measures approx. 5 cm.
Knit 2 rounds with colour light taupe at the same time as you decrease 7-5-7-5-7-5 stitches evenly on the first round = 49-51-53-55-57-59 stitches.
Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it is used when increasing. In addition, insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on the round. This stitch should match the stitch marked in the diagram – count outwards from this stitch to find where you start the pattern under the sleeve.
Change to short circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work A.2 (first and last stitch on the round always worked with colour light taupe to allow neat increases under the sleeve). When the sleeve measures 8-12-10-7-12-9 cm from the cast-on edge, increase 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 2½-2-2-2-1½-1½ cm a total of 17-18-19-20-21-22 times = 83-87-91-95-99-103 stitches. When the sleeve measures 50-49-48-47-45-43 cm, work the sleeve cap back and forth (from the marker-thread under the sleeve). Work until the sleeve measures 52-51-50-49-49-47 cm, a split of 2-2-2-2-4-4 cm at the top – adjust so the last 2 rows are without pattern. Cast off.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams, inside the cast-off edge. Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole, then the bottom of the armhole - see sketch.

DOUBLE NECK:
Use short circular needle size 3.5 mm and colour light taupe. Start from the right side on one shoulder seam and knit up 96 to 132 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the thread). The stitch count should be divisible by 4. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) and pattern A.1. When A.1 is finished, continue the rib with colour light taupe for 7 cm. The neck measures approx. 12 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

Diagram

	= light taupe
	= off white
	= marker-stitch (sleeves)
	= Sleeve cap sewn to armhole: a to A and b to B

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 243-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

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