Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= off white | |
= dark grey | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole | |
= shows 1 repeat in height and how the patterns are positioned above each other |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Reykjavik |
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Knitted jumper with Nordic Icelandic pattern and raglan in DROPS Lima. The piece is worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 205-18 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Pattern A.1 is worked in rib. Patterns A.2 to A.6 are worked in stocking stitch. INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 88 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 11. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 11th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. ELEVATION (back of neck): Skip this section if you do not want an elevation. Start from the wrong side with off-white and purl 9-9-9-10-11-11 stitches past the marker thread in the middle of the back, turn, tighten strand and knit 18-18-18-20-22-22 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and purl 27-27-27-30-33-33 stitches, turn, tighten strand and knit 36-36-36-40-44-44 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and purl 45-45-45-50-55-55 stitches, turn, tighten strand and knit 54-54-54-60-66-66 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and purl 17-17-17-17-21-21 stitches past the marker thread in the middle of the back. Move the marker thread here. Then work YOKE as described in the text. KNITTING TIP: To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem. CASTING OFF TIP: To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a ½ size larger needle. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together with off-white, (marker thread sits here), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 with off-white and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The neck, yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. After the neck you can work an elevation to make the neck slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck will then be the same front and back – see description in text. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. NECK: Cast on 88-92-96-104-108-112 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and dark grey. Change to off-white and knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 4 cm. Now work A.1 in rib. Knit 1 round with off-white where you increase 8-4-0-8-20-16 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 96-96-96-112-128-128 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round, or in the middle of the back if you want to work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – read description above or go straight to YOKE. YOKE: The first round is worked as follows: Work A.2 (= 1 stitch), A.3 over the next 32-32-32-32-40-40 stitches (= 4-4-4-4-5-5 repeats of 8 stitches) and A.4 (= 1 stitch) = back piece, work A.5 (= 2 stitches) = raglan-line, A.2 (= 1 stitch), A.3 over the next 8-8-8-16-16-16 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repeats of 8 stitches) and A.4 (= 1 stitch) = sleeve, work A.5 (= 2 stitches) = raglan-line, A.2 (= 1 stitch), A.3 over the next 32-32-32-32-40-40 stitches (= 4-4-4-4-5-5 repeats of 8 stitches) and A.4 (= 1 stitch) = front piece, work A.5 (= 2 stitches) = raglan-line, A.2 (= 1 stitch), A.3 over the next 8-8-8-16-16-16 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repeats of 8 stitches) and A.4 (= 1 stitch) = sleeve. Finally work A.5 (= 2 stitches) = raglan-line. The first increase for raglan is now finished, and there is 104-104-104-120-136-136 stitches on the needle (there is 36-36-36-36-44-44 stitches for back and for front piece, 12-12-12-20-20-20 stitches for each sleeve and 2 stitches in each of the 4 raglan lines). Continue this pattern; i.e. increase 1 stitch on each side of A.2/A.4 (= a total of 8 stitches increased every 2nd round). Read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.2 to A.4 have been worked 1 time in height there are 176-176-176-192-208-208 stitches on the needle. Continue, repeating the patterns as shown in A.2/A.4. Diagram A.3 is worked 2 more times in width each time the 16 rows are repeated in height. Continue increasing like this for a total of 22-26-30-32-32-34 times in height on each side of A.2/A.4. When the last increase is finished there are 272-304-336-368-384-400 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 17-20-23-25-25-26 cm from the neck-edge. Continue the pattern as before but without further increases until the piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the neck. The next round is worked as follows, start 1-1-1-3-3-5 stitches before the beginning of the round: Work 80-88-96-104-112-120 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 56-64-72-80-80-80 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-8-16-16 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 80-88-96-104-112-120 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 56-64-72-80-80-80 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-8-16-16 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve). Cut the strand. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! BODY: = 176-192-208-224-256-272 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread on the one side of the piece, in the middle of the 8-8-8-8-16-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it marks the beginning of the round. Work A.6 in the round (= 22-24-26-28-32-34 repeats of 8 stitches) – start with the correct stitch and row in the diagram so the pattern is repeated as before in both width and height. Continue working until the piece measures approx. 24 cm from the division – adjust to after a complete repeat in height. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and knit 1 round with off-white where you increase 36-36-40-44-48-52 stitches evenly spaced = 212-228-248-268-304-324 stitches. Work A.1 in rib (= knit 2/ purl 2). When A.1 has been completed, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl using dark grey – read CASTING OFF TIP. SLEEVE: Place the 56-64-72-80-80-80 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-8-16-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 64-72-80-88-96-96 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-8-16-16 new stitches and allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve. Start the round by the marker thread and work A.6 in the round (= 8-9-10-11-12-12 repeats of 8 stitches) – start with the correct stitch and row in the diagram so the pattern is repeated as before in both width and height, but the first and last stitch of the round are always worked with off-white (to give neat decreases under the sleeve). When the piece measures 2 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-2½-2-1½-1-1 cm a total of 11-14-17-20-23-22 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches left on needles. Continue working until the piece measures 41-39-38-36-34-33 cm from the division – or to desired length; there is approx. 4 cm left to finished length. NOTE: shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke – adjust so you finish after a complete repeat in height. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and knit 1 round with off-white where you increase 2-0-2-0-2-0 stitches evenly spaced = 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches. Work A.1 in rib (= knit 2/ purl 2). When A.1 has been completed, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl using dark grey – remember CASTING OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Fold the neck to the wrong side. Sew the cast-on edge down using dark grey – sew small, neat stitches on the inside of the jumper (make sure the seam does not show on the right side and the seam is not tight). |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (118)
Tereza wrote:
Budete tento návod překládat do češtiny? Děkuji Tereza
16.01.2022 - 09:07DROPS Design answered:
Dobrý den, Terezo, ano, tento návod přidáme během pár dnů - sledujte, prosím naše stránky. Hezký den! Hana
16.01.2022 - 23:37Trine Sneeggen wrote:
Jeg er nå ferdig med bærestykket og skal begynne på bol .Jeg har 192 masker ( xl ) skal nå fortsette mønster . Hva menes med 16 pinnene gjentas i høyden ? Og jeg skal må øke 32 masker i høyden på hver side av A2 / A4 . Når økningen er ferdig skal jeg ha 368 masker totalt . Dette får jeg ikke til å stemme
11.01.2022 - 12:17DROPS Design answered:
Hej Trine, når du har 192 masker på p, har du 22 raglanudtagninger tilbage 22x8=176 + de 192 m = 368 masker totalt. God fornøjelse!
17.01.2022 - 13:27Kerstin wrote:
Jag förstår att halsen ska stickas med den korta (40 cm) rundstickan. När ska man byta till den långa stickan? Är det när det står "byt till rundsticka 4,5"i beskrivningen om Halskant? Mvh Kerstin
10.01.2022 - 11:17DROPS Design answered:
Hej Kerstin. Du byter till den långa stickan när du inte längre får plats med alla maskor på den korta. Mvh DROPS Design
14.01.2022 - 14:32Solveig Egebakken wrote:
Forstår ikke. «Diagram A.3 strikkes 2 ganger mer i bredden for hver gang de 16 pinnene i høyden.» Har strikket de første 16 pinnene. Hva så? Hva menes med: A3 strikkes 2 ganger mer.? Skal det strikkes slik: A2, A3 (=3 rapporter) A4, A5, og A3 (= 12 rapporter.) osv. Det må jo bli en enorm økning. Trenger hjelp til å forstå hva som menes med at A3 strikkes 2 ganger mer. Tror jeg må få det forklart enkelt, trinn for trinn, slik som det første avsnittet i oppskriften.
06.01.2022 - 21:12DROPS Design answered:
Hej Solveig, nu skriver du ikke hvilken størrelse du strikker, men sådan her står det: Fortsett økningen slik til det er økt totalt 22-26-30-32-32-34 ganger i høyden på hver side av A.2/A.4. Det er samme mønster du strikker, så det fortsætter du bare efterhånden som du får nye masker. God fornøjelse!
17.01.2022 - 10:32Mona Ravn wrote:
Jeg kan ikke få maskeantal til at gå op på første pind i bærestykke, jeg har masker i overskud, når jeg følger opskriften. Jeg strikker i str l, det ser ud til at maskeantal passer til str s
29.11.2021 - 22:37DROPS Design answered:
Hei Mona. I str. L har du 96 masker når du begynner på bærestykket, og det strikkes slik: Strikk A.2, deretter A.3 over de neste 32 maskene, A.4, strikk A.5, A.2, deretter A.3 over de neste 8 maskene, A.4, A.5, A.2, deretter A.3 over de neste 32 maskene , A.4 , A.5, A.2, deretter A.3 over de neste 8 maskene, A.4 og A.5 = 96 masker, MEN det er også økt masker når det strikkes A.2 og A.4 (tilsammen 8 økte maslker) = 96+8= 104 masker på pinnen når 1. omgang er strikket. Husk å overholde strikkefastheten for å få det til å passe str. L. mvh DROPS Design
30.11.2021 - 11:09Annbjørg wrote:
Hei drops design. Har ingen problem med å forstå mønsteret og økningene, det er greit. Problemet er at det er feil maske antall i oppskriften til str M. Eg har sendt dere 3 spørsmål om det og fått 3 forskjellige svar fra dere, følgende svar er 96, 104 og 108 etter økningene? Viss eg skal ha 32 x2 m på for og bakstykke + 8 x2 på armene og 2 x4 raglanlinje så blir det 88 masker tilsammen før økning, men i mønsteret er 96, altså 8 masker for mange.
29.10.2021 - 21:45Annbjørg Lunde wrote:
Hei. 32+2+8+2+32+2+8+2 =88 + 8 (A2 og A4) = 96. Det vil sei at eg skal ha 88 masker før eg starter med med 1 omg i diagrammet? Vennligst sjå på deres første svar til meg, der dere kom fram til 96 etter økningene, men i mønsteret er 104 ergo er det 8 masker for mange.
27.10.2021 - 16:36DROPS Design answered:
Hej Annbjørg. Du har 96 m innan ökningarna (innan du stickat omg 1). När du stickar omg 1 så ökar du 1 m vid varje A.2 och A.4 (första omg på A.2 stickas 1 kast, 1 rm, första omg på A.4 stickas 1 rm, 1 kast). När du stickat omg 1 av alla diagram har du alltså 108 m. Mvh DROPS Design
29.10.2021 - 08:41Annbjørg wrote:
Hei. Takk for svar, men har 96 masker i str M før eg strikker A2 og A4, etter økning er det 104 masker?
27.10.2021 - 12:50DROPS Design answered:
Hej Annbjørg. Du har 96 m och så ska det ökas 8 m (1 kast vid varje A.2 och A.4) så då får du 104m. Mvh DROPS Design
27.10.2021 - 13:42Annbjørg wrote:
HEI. Strikker str M og får ikkje maske antallet til å stemme. Har 96 m og skal strikke 1 omg. 32+2+8+2+32+2+8+2=88 + auke ut 8 m = 96 ergo sitte igjen med 8 m for mykje.? Kva som er feil?
26.10.2021 - 19:52DROPS Design answered:
Hej Annbjørg. Du missar diagrammen med 1 maska (A.2 och A.4). Såhär ska du sticka: 1+32+1+2+1+8+1+2+1+32+1+2+1+8+1+2= 96 m. Mvh DROPS Design
27.10.2021 - 11:37Elin wrote:
Strikker denne i str.M, men på andre omgang av mønsteret så får jeg det ikke til å stemme. Det bli «boks» «boks» «strek» «boks» «boks». Skal det ikke være annenhver «boks» og «strek»? Hvordan får jeg dette til å gå opp?
25.10.2021 - 16:03DROPS Design answered:
Hej Elin. Vid raglan som kommer det inte bli annanhver "boks" och "strek" om det är det du menar? Om du ser på bilden så är diagram A.5 raglanlinjen och där blir mönstret lite annorlunda. Mvh DROPS Design
26.10.2021 - 08:48