Flower Market Bag by DROPS Design
Crocheted bag for children in DROPS Paris. The piece is worked in the round, bottom up, with stripes and flowers.
Yarn group C
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SIZE:
Circumference: approx. 54 cm = 21 1/4”.
Height: approx. 24 cm = 9 1/2”.
MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50 g color 10, turquoise
50 g color 02, light turquoise
50 g color 31, purple
50 g color 06, cerise
50 g color 13, orange
50 g color 41, mustard
50 g color 39, wasabi
50 g color 11, opal green
CROCHET GAUGE:
18 double crochets in width and 10.5 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.
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DROPS Paris 100% Cotton |
from 1.80 $ /50g | |||||||||
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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CROCHET INFO:
The first double crochet on the round is replaced by 3 chain stitches; finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch.
When changing color work the final slip stitch on the round as follows: Insert the hook in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the round, change to the next color and pull the strand through the loop on the hook.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER IN 1 STITCH:
Work a double crochet in the next stitch but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on hook). Work one more double crochet in the same stitch, but when working the last yarn over, pull the strand through all 3 loops on the hook (= 2 double crochets worked in 1 stitch).
STRIPES:
The chain-stitch ring at the beginning of the piece + ROUNDS 1-4: turquoise
ROUNDS 5-7: light turquoise
ROUNDS 8-10: purple
ROUNDS 11-13: cerise
ROUNDS 14-16: orange
ROUNDS 17-19: mustard
ROUNDS 20-22: wasabi
ROUNDS 23-25: opal green
ROUND 26: turquoise
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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BAG – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round from the middle of the bottom and upwards.
BAG:
Work 5 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm = US 4 and turquoise and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked. Then work STRIPES– see description above and double crochets as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 11 double crochets around the ring – read CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 2: Work 2 double crochets in each double crochet = 22 double crochets.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 double crochet in the first double crochet, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 33 double crochets.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 double crochet in each of the first 2 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 44 double crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUNDS 5-8: Continue to increase and work pattern as before; i.e. each subsequent round work 1 more double crochet between each increase = 88 double crochets.
ROUNDS 9: Work double crochets and increase 9 double crochets evenly spaced = 97 double crochets.
Continue working 1 double crochet in each double crochet until you have worked a total of 21 rounds from the start and then work the next round as follows:
ROUND 22: Work round 2 in A.1 + A.2 (flower) as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in the first double crochet, ** Work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 double crochets, work 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER IN 1 STITCH – see description above and around these double crochets work A.2 (= flower) as follows (see arrow in A.2; flower starts here): Around the last double crochet worked in A.1 work as follows: * 4 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch *, work from *-* a total of 3 times then work around the next-to-last double crochet, in A.1 as follows: * 4 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, work 1 chain stitch, then continue A.1 as follows: Work 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 double crochets **. Work from **-** to end of round = 8 flowers. (You will later crochet around the chain-spaces in the flowers with different colors (= A.3).
ROUND 23: Work round 3 in A.1 as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in the first double crochet. ** Work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 double crochets then 1 double crochet around the chain stitch after the flower and1 double crochet in each of the next 6 double crochets **, work from **-** to end of round.
Now work 2 straps as follows:
ROUND 24: Work 1 double crochet in the first double crochet, * Work 24 double crochets, then chain stitches until the row of chain stitches measures approx. 40 cm (= strap), skip 24 double crochets *, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.
ROUND 25: * Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 22 double crochets, 1 double crochet in each chain stitch on the strap *, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.
ROUND 26: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet on the round. Cut and fasten strands.
FLOWER:
Around each chain-space worked in A.2 (= 4 chain stitches) work A.3 in different colors – see description below. When A.3 has been worked around all 5 chain-spaces, cut the strand, tie the ends together and fasten all strands.
The flowers are worked in different colors in the same order as on the bag.: FLOWER 1 = turquoise
FLOWER 2 = light turquoise
FLOWER 3 = purple
FLOWER 4 = cerise
FLOWER 5 = orange
FLOWER 6 = mustard
FLOWER 7 = wasabi
FLOWER 8 = opal green
LOOSE FLOWERS:
Work loose flowers as follows:
Work according to diagram A.4 and in the following colors:
Flower 1:
The chain-stitch ring at the beginning of the piece + round 1: turquoise.
Round 2: light turquoise
Flower 2:
The chain-stitch ring at the beginning of the piece + round 1: light turquoise.
Round 2: purple
Flower 3:
The chain-stitch ring at the beginning of the piece + round 1: purple.
Round 2: cerise
Flower 4:
The chain-stitch ring at the beginning of the piece + round 1: cerise
Round 2: orange.
Flower 5:
The chain-stitch ring at the beginning of the piece + round 1: orange
Round 2: mustard.
Flower 6:
The chain-stitch ring at the beginning of the piece + round 1: mustard
Round 2: wasabi
Flower 7:
The chain-stitch ring at the beginning of the piece + round 1: wasabi
Round 2: opal green.
Flower 8:
The chain-stitch ring at the beginning of the piece + round 1: opal green
Round 2: turquoise.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
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= Start here: Work 5 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm = US E/4 and turquoise and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked. Point on circle is beginning of round. |
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= 1 double crochet in stitch |
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= 1 double crochet around chain stitch/chain-space/space between 2 double crochets worked together |
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= work 2 double crochets together in 1 stitch - see description in text |
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= slip stitch |
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= first round already worked; this shows how the next round is worked in/around the stitches |
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= round starts here |
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= round 2 starts here |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 35-6) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (4)
Beth Dalton
06.07.2020 - 01:39:
In Row 22. one is crocheting the baser loops for the flowers. Not a problem. However there are 97 stitches, which divided by the dc in 6 st plus the double dc in 7th stich around and I have more than 8 flowers. What am I not understanding? Thank you
DROPS Design
06.07.2020 kl. 09:18:
Erika
25.09.2019 - 22:03:
Hej! Vad är tanken med de lösa blommorna? De ska alltså inte sättas fast på väskan, eller?
DROPS Design
26.09.2019 kl. 08:07:
Suisse M
28.07.2019 - 13:59:
Je ne comprends pas comment faire le rang 22 J'ai 96 mailles et si je fais une fleur toutes les 6 brides j'aurai plus que 8 fleurs Merci pour votre aide M
DROPS Design
29.07.2019 kl. 17:59:
Elvira Halicki
15.07.2019 - 10:21:
Gibt es die Anleitungen auch als Pdf
DROPS Design
15.07.2019 kl. 11:28:
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