DROPS / 199 / 35

Mermaid Shell by DROPS Design

Crocheted poncho jumper in DROPS Big Merino. Piece is crocheted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern mb-056
Yarn group C or A + A


DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-600-750 g colour 06, forget-me-not

14 treble crochets in width and 8.5 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.

Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.


Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Big Merino mix DROPS Big Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Big Merino uni colour DROPS Big Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

Diagram A.1 shows how rounds begin and end, and are worked in addition to A.2.
Diagram A.3 shows how rounds begin and end, and are worked in addition to A.4.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches (e.g. 96 stitches) and divide this by number of increases to be done (e.g. 48) = 2. I.e. in this example increase by working 2 treble crochets in same stitch in every other treble crochet.




Work in the round top down. Work sleeves in the round, top down. Work neck edge in the round at the end.

Work 112-119-126 chain stitches on hook size 5 mm with Big Merino and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in each of the first 6 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, work from *-* 15-16-17 times in total, finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round = 96-102-108 treble crochets + 3 chain stitches.
Then work pattern as follows:
Read CROCHET INFO, work A.2A 16-17-18 times in total on round – on round marked with arrow increase 48-54-60 treble crochets evenly – read INCREASE TIP = 144-156-168 treble crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Then repeat A.2A 24-26-28 times in width.
When A.2A is done, work A.2B over A.2A – on round marked with arrow increase 48-54-60 treble crochets evenly = 192-210-228 treble crochets.
Then repeat A.2B 32-35-38 times in width.
When A.2B is done, work the first 6 rounds in A.2A over A.2B – on round marked with arrow increase 48-54-60 treble crochets evenly = 240-264-288 treble crochets.
Then repeat A.2A 40-44-48 times in width. Continue until 6th round in A.2A (= round after round with arrow) = 80-88-96 chain spaces. The piece measures approx. 32 cm in all sizes.
Insert 4 markers in piece as follows (without working):
Insert first marker after the first 13-15-16 chain spaces (= half back piece), insert second marker after the next 14-14-16 chain spaces (= sleeve), insert third marker after the next 26-30-32 chain spaces (= front piece), and insert fourth marker after the next 14-14-16 chain spaces (= sleeve), 13-15-16 chain spaces remain on round after last marker (= half back piece). Now divide body and sleeves at the markers, and finish each part separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

= 52-60-64 chain spaces. Continue until A.2A has been worked over these stitches AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 24 treble crochets evenly (then repeat A.2A 30-34-36 times in width) = 180-204-216 treble crochets.
When A.2A is done, work A.2B over A.2A – on round marked with arrow increase 36-42-48 treble crochets evenly = 216-246-264 treble crochets (then repeat A.2B 36-41-44 times in width).
When A.2B has been done, work A.2C over A.2B 0-1-2 times in total vertically. Cut and fasten the yarn. Body measures approx. 14-18-22 cm from division.

= 14-14-16 chain spaces. Begin mid under sleeve and then work as follows: Remember CROCHET INFO, continue with 7th round in A.2A over these stitches (= 7-7-8 times in width), and work until 8th round.
Then repeat rounds 6 to 8 0-0-1 more time. Cut and fasten the yarn. Sleeve measures approx. 3-3-7 cm from division.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

Work around the neck as follows - NOTE: Work in chain stitches where treble crochets were worked but do not work in the chain stitches that were skipped: Begin mid back, fasten strand to piece with 1 slip stitch in a treble crochet, work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in next treble crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip 3-1-3 treble crochets, 1 double crochet in next treble crochet, * 3 chain stitches, skip 3 treble crochets, 1 double crochet in next treble crochet *, work from *-* 22-24-25 times in total, work 3 chain stitches, skip 3 treble crochets and finish with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round = 24-26-27 chain spaces. Then work A.4 in the round – remember CROCHET INFO. When A.4 is done, fasten off.


= round has already been worked Begin on next round.
= chain stitch
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet between 2 treble crochet groups
= double crochet around chain space
= treble crochet in stitch
= treble around chain stitch/chain space
= treble crochet between 2 treble crochet groups
= round begins with 1 chain stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round
= round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
= increase round

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

Natalia 22.07.2020 - 00:56:

Buenas tardes, no entiendo en la vuelta siguiente a la los primeros 54 puntos de aumento como realizar los arcos porque si sigo el patrón no me queda bien.

Sessa 19.06.2020 - 20:32:

Hej! Nybörjare och har fastnat på A2 rad tre. A1 börjar med tre luftmaskor och sedan på A2 rad tre ser det ut som två luftmaskor, sedan är det två kryss(fastmaska i maskan)ovanpå ett upp-och ner v och sedan två luftmaskor och avslut med stolpe i maskan. Jag förstår inte vad jag ska göra på varvet. HJÄLP. Tack på förhand!

DROPS Design 22.06.2020 kl. 11:28:

Hei Sessa. Du er nå på 2. rad (raden med sort stjerne er allerede heklet og telles ikke med i diagrammet). Du starter med A.1 (3 luftmasker), så hekles A.2 slik: 2 luftmasker, 1 fastmaske i toppen på staven fra forrige omgang, 2 luftmasker, 1 fastmaske i samme stav som den andre fastmasken, 2 luftmasker og 1 stav i fastmaske fra forrige omgang, så gjentar du A.2 omgangen ut og avslutter med 1 kjedemaske i den 3. luftmasken på starten av omgangen. God Fornøyelse!

Eleonora 22.05.2020 - 11:25:

Buongiorno, esiste un modello analogo a maglia?

DROPS Design 22.05.2020 kl. 11:58:

Buongiorno Eleonora. Purtroppo non esiste il corrispondente ai ferri. A questo link trova la selezione dei poncho ai ferri. Ci auguriamo possa trovarne uno che incontri il suo gusto. Buon lavoro!

Nadine 20.04.2020 - 14:03:

Hello, I have worked all the way to where the markers should be placed. It says the whole work should mesure 32 cm. I only get 28, but when I did the "Maschenprobe" it was 12 cm instead of 10. What do you recomend should I do now? Add a couple of rows?

DROPS Design 20.04.2020 kl. 14:11:

Dear Nadine, you can maybe continue as before for 4 more cm, ie until your piece measure 32 cm but ou might require more yarn then - or then try again with another crochet hook size to get the correct tension in height (try to avoid getting longer stitches). read more about tension here. Happy crocheting!

Mariann Rolighed Mikkelsen 11.04.2020 - 15:34:

Diagrammet er umulig at følge efter udtagning, da de ekstra masker ikke fremgår af diagrammet 😕 Hvorfor ikke sikre forståelsen ved at opgradere og medtage udtagningerne i diagrammet? En skriftlig beskrivelse + et udvidet diagram ville være det optimale for at kunne læse opskriften. Jeg opgiver at hækle denne poncho, da diagrammet desværre er for svær for mig 😪

Maria Teresa 08.03.2020 - 20:43:

Hola ! Quisiera que me expliquen qué significa cuando se deben repetir A.2A 24 veces a lo ancho? Gracias y espero su respuesta

DROPS Design 10.03.2020 kl. 23:48:

Hola Maria Teresa. Una repetición de A.2a es de 6 puntos. Para la talla S (= 144 puntos) tenemos repetir A.2a 24 veces a lo largo de la vuelta ( 6 puntos x 24 veces = 144 puntos).

Patti Urso 19.12.2019 - 12:28:

Thank you

Patti Urso 18.12.2019 - 17:05:

What I am understanding from the instructions is that after finishing all the rows in A2B I work on A2A for six rounds- on the 5th round I will increases to equal 240- or 264 or 288 , depending on the size, and then complete the 6th round working on all the stitches including those that I increased in the 5th row. After that I measure the yoke and it should be 12.5 inches. After that I then will place the marker per your directions to separate the body and the sleeves. Is this correct?

DROPS Design 19.12.2019 kl. 07:41:

Dear Mrs Urso, yes it seems correct. After you have placed the markers, you just work next piece separately, first body and then sleeeves. Happy crocheting!

Consuelo 10.12.2019 - 17:37:

Buongiorno, sarebbe fattibile questo modello in cotone? Se si, quale suggerite?

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 11:22:

Buongiorno Consuelo. Può usare il Paris (gruppo filato C come Big Merino) oppure il Safran, usato doppio. Per ogni ulteriore consiglio sulla scelta del filato e sulle quantità da ordinare, può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Patti Urso 29.11.2019 - 10:00:

There is another Mermaid Shell that I printed of this pattern that has double crochet for some symbols in the diagram where the other says treble crochet I am nearly completing the yoke with the double crochets and now I just discovered that it seems that the instructions had an error. Please confirm if the pattern I am following is not correct. Thank you.

DROPS Design 29.11.2019 kl. 10:33:

- see answer below - remember crochet terminology is different in US and in Uk English. Happy crocheting!

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