DROPS / 199 / 17

Sandy Shores by DROPS Design

Crocheted dress with round yoke in DROPS Cotton Merino. Piece is crocheted top down with lace pattern, buttons and pockets. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern cm-116
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
650-700-750-850-900-1000 g colour 28, powder

CROCHET TENSION:
18 treble crochets in width and 9 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 10 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 3.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.11. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.7). Begin to work on row with arrow in diagrams.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
On every row with treble crochets replace first treble crochet on row with 3 chain stitches.
On every row with double treble crochets replace first double treble crochet on row with 4 chain stitches.
On every row with double crochet replace first double crochet with 1 chain stitch.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, count the stitches to be increased (e.g. 133 stitches) and divide this number by stitches of increases to be done (e.g. 7) = 19. In this example increase by working 2 treble crochets in every 19th stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Increase 1 treble by working 2 trebles in one stitch.
BAND:
Then work 1 treble crochet in each of the 5 stitches for band, but on rows with double treble crochets in A.8, work double treble crochets in band instead of treble crochets – remember CROCHET INFORMATION.

DECREASE TIP:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn).
Work buttonholes by replacing 4th treble crochet from edge with 1 chain stitch. On next row work 1 treble crochet around chain stitch. Work first buttonhole at end of 1st row on yoke. Then work the next 9 buttonholes approx. 7½-7½-8-8-8½-8½ cm apart – adjust so that buttonholes are on a row with treble crochets and not on a row with double treble crochets or double crochets).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DRESS WITH BUTTONS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked back and forth, top down. Work sleeves back and forth and fasten under sleeve with 1 slip stitch at the end of round.

DRESS:
YOKE:
Work 138-142-147-153-159-166 chain stitches on hook size 4 mm with Cotton Merino. Turn and work as follows.
ROW 1 (right side): Remember BUTTONHOLES at the end of this row - read explanation above. Work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* 22-22-23-24-25-26 times in total, work 1 treble crochet in each of the remaining 2-6-5-5-5-6 chain stitches on row = 114-118-122-127-132-138 treble crochets.
ROW 2: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 15-16-17-18-17-17 treble crochets - read CROCHET INFORMATION, A.1 (= 2 treble crochets increased to 3) over the next 14-14-14-14-16-18 treble crochets (= 7-7-7-7-8-9 treble crochets increased), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 treble crochets, A.1 over the next 14-14-14-14-16-18 treble crochets (= 7-7-7-7-8-9 treble crochets increased), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 20-22-25-27-26-24 treble crochets, A.1 over the next 14-14-14-14-16-18 treble crochets (= 7-7-7-7-8-9 treble crochets increased), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 treble crochets, A.1 over the next 14-14-14-14-16-18 treble crochets (= 7-7-7-7-8-9 treble crochets increased), work 1 treble crochet in each of the remaining 15-16-17-18-17-17 treble crochets = 142-146-150-155-164-174 treble crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Sizes S and M are done, continue from next section below. In size L, XL, XXL and XXXL work as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 28-27-29-32 treble crochets, A.1 over the next 6-8-8-8 treble crochets (= 3-4-4-4 treble crochets increased), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 12 treble crochets, A.1 over the next 6-8-8-8 treble crochets (= 3-4-4-4 treble crochets increased), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 46-45-50-54 treble crochets, A.1 over the next 6-8-8-8 treble crochets (= 3-4-4-4 treble crochets increased), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 12 treble crochets, A.1 over the next 6-8-8-8 treble crochets (= 3-4-4-4 treble crochets increased), work 1 treble crochet in each of the remaining 28-27-29-32 treble crochets = 162-171-180-190 treble crochets. Last row worked is from right side. Cut the yarn so that next row is also from the right side (= 2 rows from right side after each other). This is done so that bobbles on pattern later in piece is on the right side).

All sizes:
Now work pattern as follows (from right side):
Work A.2 (= band), A.3 until 8 treble crochets remain on row, at the same time increase 1-7-1-2-3-3 treble crochets evenly – read INCREASE TIP-1, A.4 over the next 3 treble crochets, finish with A.2 over the remaining 5 treble crochets on row (= band). There are now 143-153-163-173-183-193 treble crochets on row and there is room for 13-14-15-16-17-18 repetitions A.3 in width between A.2/A.4. Continue until diagrams have been worked vertically but on last row in diagram increase 1-0-1-0-1-0 treble crochets on row – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 209-223-239-253-269-283 treble crochets on row.
Now work as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 5 treble crochets (= band), work A.5 over the next stitch, A.6 over the next 28-32-34-38-40-44 treble crochets, A.7 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 10 treble crochets, A.6 over the next 22-22-24-26-26-28 treble crochets, A.7 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 10 treble crochets, A.6 over the next 58-64-72-74-86-88 treble crochets, A.7 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 10 treble crochets, A.6 over the next 22-22-24-26-26-28 treble crochets, A.7 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 10 treble crochets, A.6 over the next 28-32-34-38-40-44 treble crochets, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 treble crochets. Continue back and forth like this until diagrams have been worked vertically. There are now 249-271-287-317-333-355 trebles on row. Now work with 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet until piece measures 14-16-18-20-22-24 cm (It remains 1 row on yoke + 1 row with treble crochets for neck edge at the end), AT THE SAME TIME on last row increase 6-15-23-16-20-27 treble crochets evenly = 255-286-310-333-353-382 treble crochets.
Work next row as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 38-41-44-49-54-58 treble crochets (= half front piece), work 8-8-10-10-12-14 loose chain stitches, skip the next 57-65-72-76-79-83 treble crochets (= sleeve), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 65-73-77-87-95-105 treble crochets (= back piece), work 8-8-10-10-12-14 loose chain stitches, skip 57-65-72-76-79-83 treble crochets (= sleeve), work 1 treble crochet in each of the remaining 38-41-44-49-54-58 treble crochets (= half front piece). Yoke now measures approx. 15-17-19-21-23-25 cm from neck edge and down along band.

BODY:
Work 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet and 1 treble crochet in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new chain stitches under each sleeve = 157-171-185-205-227-249 treble crochets. Now work pattern back and forth as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 5 treble crochets (= band), work A.8 until 6 stitches remain, work first stitch in A.8, 1 treble crochets in each of the remaining 5 treble crochets (= band). Continue back and forth like this, at the same time work BAND – read explanation above, and on rows with white stars decrease stitches evenly – read DECREASE TIP, as follows:
Star-1: Decrease 6-6-6-6-6-6 stitches evenly = 151-165-179-199-221-243 stitches.
Star-2: Decrease 4-4-4-6-6-6 treble crochets evenly = 147-161-175-193-215-237 stitches.
On row with black star increase 6-6-6-6-6-6 treble crochets evenly (but not over the 5 treble crochets in band in each side) = 153-167-181-199-221-243 stitches. Increase like this approx. every 2 cm 10-10-10-10-11-12 times in total = 207-221-235-253-281-309 stitches. When A.8 has been worked vertically, continue with treble crochets until piece measures 52 cm. Work 1 row while increasing 4-2-4-2-6-2 treble crochets evenly = 211-223-239-255-287-311 treble crochets. Now work an edge as follows: A.9 (= band), A.10 until 6 treble crochets remain on row, A.11 over next treble crochet, finish with A.9 (= band). Continue back and forth like this until diagrams have been worked vertically. Cut and fasten the yarn. Piece measures approx. 80-82-84-86-88-90 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round but turn on every round and work back and forth on round the make the texture the same the entire way. At beginning of round replace first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
Begin by working mid under sleeve. Begin in 5th-5th-6th-6th-7th-8th chain stitch of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 chain stitches worked under sleeve. Remember CROCHET INFORMATION.
ROUND 1: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 4-4-5-5-6-7 chain stitches, work 1 treble crochet in each of the treble crochets over sleeve (= 57-65-72-76-79-83 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in each of the 4-4-5-5-6-7 chain stitches = 65-73-82-86-91-97 treble crochets.
ROUND 2: Work 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet.
ROUND 3: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 22-22-21-23-23-24 treble crochets, work 2 and 2 treble crochets together – remember DECREASE TIP, over the next 22-30-42-42-46-50 treble crochets (= 11-15-21-21-23-25 treble crochets decreased), work 1 treble crochet in each of the remaining treble crochets on round = 54-58-61-65-68-72 treble crochets.
ROUND 4: Work 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet.
Cut and fasten the yarn. Work the other sleeve the same way.

POCKETS:
Work 29 chain stitches on hook size 4 mm with Cotton Merino. Work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 treble crochets), work 1 treble crochet in next chain stitch, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 23 treble crochets. Continue to work back and forth like this until pocket measures approx. 13 cm. Cut and fasten the yarn. Work another pocket the same way. Place pocket approx. 8-9-10-11-12-13 cm from edge on band and with upper edge on pocket approx. 24 cm from division. Fasten pockets with small invisible stitches. Repeat in the other side.

NECK EDGE:
Begin in first stitch from right side and work a row with treble crochets as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in each chain stitch, but skip chain stitches skipped on first row on yoke = 114-118-122-127-132-138 treble crochets. Cut and fasten the yarn.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band.

Diagram

= 1 chain stitch
= 2 chain stitches
= 6 chain stitches
= 1 double crochet in stitch
= 1 double crochet around chain space
= 1 treble crochet in stitch
= 1 treble crochet around chain space
= 1 double treble crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= work 1 bobble around treble crochet as follows: Work 1 treble crochet but wait with last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 3 double treble crochets, but wait with last yarn over and pull through on each double treble crochet (= 5 loops on hook), work 1 treble crochet, but pull last yarn over through all 6 loops on hook.
= decrease row - read explanation in pattern
= increase row - read explanation in pattern
= begin on this row, previous row has already been worked








Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

Ingegerd 15.12.2019 - 17:10:

Förstår ej hur jag gör under ärmen. När jag virkat dom första 4 stolparna under ärmen så kommer jag inte vidare till den första av dom 65 stolparna utan att det blir ett stort hål. (alltså ett hål mellan 4 stolpen under ärmen o den första av dom 65 stolparna.. ) Jag kan skicka en bild hur det ser ut om det behövs. TACK!

DROPS Design 17.12.2019 kl. 13:34:

Hej Ingegerd, Vi kan inte se var du är i mönstret, men se vår video hur du delar vid ärmerna:

How to crochet the body under round yoke from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Willa 17.08.2019 - 19:41:

On A.3 row 4, what does the symbol between the sc stand for?

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 09:49:

Dear Willa, this symbol is the 3rd from diagram key = 6 chain stitches. Happy crocheting!

Jorgette Loup 23.05.2019 - 22:43:

Comment gère ton les espacement dans A3.A2 une maille dans chaque maille mais dans A3 elles sont espacées et on ne voit pas de ma en l'air. merci

DROPS Design 24.05.2019 kl. 07:48:

Bonjour Mme Loup, vous trouverez ici comment lire des diagrammes - dans A.3 on crochète des mailles en l'air (soit 1 = 1er symbole au 1er rang par ex), soit plusieurs (avec le même symbole) soit représentées par le 2ème et le 3ème symbole de la légende. Bon crochet!

Fabienne 29.04.2019 - 17:53:

Bonjour, je voulais juste signaler que ce modèle est dans les tricots mais c'est du crochet !

DROPS Design 30.04.2019 kl. 10:19:

Bonjour Fabienne et merci pour votre retour, l'icône va être modifiée. Bon crochet!

Lotta Svensson 21.04.2019 - 16:26:

Var finns mönstret för A10? saknar det i beskrivningen.

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 10:14:

Hej. Nu finns samtliga diagram till mönstret (A.1 - A.11) längst ner på sidan. Mvh DROPS Design

Joanna 15.04.2019 - 10:28:

Where are the diagrams A.9, A.10 and A.11? They all are necessary to finish the dress.

DROPS Design 15.04.2019 kl. 18:39:

Witaj Joanno! Dziękuję za zwrócenie uwagi. Zostało to już zgłoszone, a korekta zostanie naniesiona po świętach, najwcześniej 23 kwietnia. Pozdrawiamy!

Pauliina 12.04.2019 - 17:38:

Hei, Onko tarkoitus, että reikäkerrokset asettuvat joka koossa rinnan alle? Isommissa koossa reiät asettuvat hankalasti suoraan rinnan päälle. Terv. Pauliina

Maja Lyngbakke 12.04.2019 - 07:26:

Hvor finder jeg mønster a9 -a11 Mvh Maja

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 13:16:

Hei Maja. Nå skal alle diagrammene være tilgjengelige. Beklager det, og god fornøyelse videre.

Angelina 01.02.2019 - 23:24:

Jätte fin och vackert

Danielle Provost 23.01.2019 - 09:18:

Très jolie modèle pour l'été

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