DROPS / 201 / 15

Lonely Horizon by DROPS Design

Knitted top in DROPS BabyMerino. Piece is knitted top down with raglan and stripes. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no bm-063
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 39, purple orchid
50-50-50-100-100-100 g colour no 17, beige

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm, length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm: length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 144 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 8) = 18. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 18th stitch. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan in every transition between sleeves and body as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. Increase 8 stitches in total on every increase round.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to increase in the sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the increased stitches in stocking stitch. Increase 4 stitches in total on every increase round.

STRIPES:
4-4-4-5-5-5 rounds with beige.
10-10-10-10-12-12 rounds with purple orchid.
Then work with beige until finished measurements.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Yoke and body are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeve edge in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 144-148-156-160-168-176 stitches on a short circular needle size 2.5 mm with purple orchid. Knit 1 round. Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 2 cm. Then knit 1 round while increasing 8-4-4-8-4-4 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 152-152-160-168-172-180 stitches.
Insert 4 marker threads in piece without working stitches as follows: First marker thread at beginning of round, second marker thread after 48-48-52-56-58-62 stitches (= back piece), third marker thread after another 28 stitches (= sleeve), fourth marker thread after 48-48-52-56-58-62 stitches (= front piece), 28 stitches now remain until first marker thread (= sleeve). Switch to circular needle size 3 mm.
Work in stocking stitch in the round, AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd round begin increase for RAGLAN – see explanation above. Increase like this every other round 18-23-26-29-32-36 times in total. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After last increase there are 296-336-368-400-428-468 stitches on needle. Work without increases until piece measures 18-19-20-22-24-26 cm from cast-on edge.
Work next round as follows: Knit 85-95-104-115-125-138 (= back piece), slip the next 62-72-80-84-86-92 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-14 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), knit 86-96-104-116-128-142 (= front piece), slip the next 62-72-80-84-86-92 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-14 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the last 1-1-0-1-3-4 stitches (= back piece). Cut the yarn. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 192-212-232-256-284-312 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches that were cast on under each sleeve. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later.
Begin round at one of the marker threads and continue in stocking stitch. When piece measures 12-13-14-14-14-14 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4 cm 5 times in total = 212-232-252-276-304-332 stitches. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 20-21-21-21-20-20 cm from division, work STRIPES - read explanation above.
When piece measures 30-31-32-32-32-32 cm from division, increase 40-44-48-52-60-64 stitches evenly = 252-276-300-328-364-396 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 2 cm. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use circular needle size 3 mm. Top measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Slip the 62-72-80-84-86-92 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches cast on under sleeve = 72-82-92-96-100-106 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches under sleeve and move the marker thread upwards when working. Marker thread marks the beginning of round. Begin round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round with purple orchid. When piece measures 6-5-5-3-1-0 cm from division, increase 12-14-16-16-20-18 stitches evenly = 84-96-108-112-120-124 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 2 cm. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use needles size 3 mm.
Work the other sleeve edge the same way.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 201-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Wanda 29.03.2020 - 15:51:

Beste ? Bij de pas, na het meerderen van 4 steken bij de 3de maat heb ik 160 steken te verdelen tussen de markeerdraden als volgt 52 dan 28 en weer 52 en als laatste weer 28. Maar ik heb er nu nog 20 over. Is het misschien een drukfout en moet er 2 x 38 staan in plaats van 28?

Julia 20.10.2019 - 18:49:

Bonjour, Je ne me sens pas capable de tricoter ce modèle de haut en bas, et encore moins en rond. J'ai l'habitude de tricoter les modèles en allers-retours, et j'aimerais beaucoup faire ce pull ! Vous serait-il possible de me fournir des explications pour le tricoter en allers-retours et de bas en haut ? D'avance merci :)

DROPS Design 21.10.2019 kl. 11:12:

Bonjour Julia, vous trouverez ici comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Cette vidéo montre comment tricoter un pull raglan de haut en bas. Pour toute assistance complémentaire, votre magasin DROPS pourra vous accompagner, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Rodica Cristea 12.08.2019 - 13:46:

Can you tell me the knitting tension: 24 stiches and 32 rows in stocking stich =10*10 cm is knitted for 3 mm needles or for 2.5 mm needles ? The pattern is worked on 2.5 mm needles, but the tension is not specified for witch size of needle would be worked.

DROPS Design 12.08.2019 kl. 14:35:

Dear Mrs Cristea, tension is for larger needle sizes, ie for the stocking stitch part in the pattern (after rib on yoke). Happy knitting!

Evelyn 07.08.2019 - 05:52:

Hi, can you share with me the measurement in long sleeves please? Thank you

DROPS Design 08.08.2019 kl. 10:25:

Dear Evelyn, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, however you can get inspired from jumpers with long sleeves worked top down. Happy knitting!

Vasilisa 06.08.2019 - 15:13:

Hi! You could help me please, couldn't you? I've bought Drops Delight 300g. Is this amount enough for the pattern? Yarn converter is not helpful with my question. Thank you so much!

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 15:25:

Dear Vasilisa, DROPS Delight belongs to the same yarn group of Baby Merino, so you can use it as substitute: just remember to check your gauge first! Baby Merino and Delight are both 175m/50g so you can use the same amount indicated in the pattern. Happy knitting!

Francesca 29.06.2019 - 13:57:

Non ho capito cosa significa "riprendere 1 maglia in ognuna delle 10-10-12-12-14-14 maglie avviate sotto la manica".

DROPS Design 29.06.2019 kl. 22:15:

Buonasera Francesca, in quel punto deve riprendere le maglie nelle maglie avviate per la manica, e ciò serve per evitare il "buchino" sotto la manica. Questo video può aiutarla a capire come riprendere le maglie: . Buon lavoro!

Helena Maine 26.06.2019 - 12:50:

I am not quite clear on the part where stitches for sleeves are put on stitch holders and 10 new stitches are cast on under arms. It says work 1 last stitch (for S/M) and cut the yarn. I am not sure why 1 stitch is left to knit if the division of stitches is equal for back and front. Why cut the yarn if I am to continue knitting the rest of the body with the same yarn? Thanks Helena

DROPS Design 26.06.2019 kl. 14:17:

Dear Mrs Maine, you work all sts from beg of round to 1 st after marker (= back piece = 95 sts), then slip the next 72 sts on a thread for sleeve and cast on 10 sts, 1 st remain before next marker, work this st + the next 95 sts for front piece (= 96 sts), 1 st remain after marker on sleeve, slip this st with the next 71 one on a thread for sleeve (= 72 sts) and cast on 10 sts, 1 st remain before last marker, K this st = last and 96th st on back piece + 10 sts under each sleeve = 212 sts. You then cut the yarn since body will now start in the middle of the 10 new sts mid under one sleeve. Happy knitting!

Clearyroel 14.06.2019 - 13:37:

Hello, I am going to make this top in size S. When preparing for the sleeve armholes, it says to put 62 stiches on a stitch holder, then cast on 10 new stiches. Should the 10 new stiches be in between the 62 stiches, like put 31+ cast on 10+ put 31 on a stitch holder?

DROPS Design 14.06.2019 kl. 14:11:

Dear Clearyroel, this video shows how to slip the stitches for the sleeve on a thread and how to cast on the new stitches under the sleeve - from time code 06:58 approx. Happy knitting!

Helena Maine 27.05.2019 - 14:31:

This is a lovely pattern and as soon as I saw it, I bought the yarn to make it. Mine will be red/navy and with 3/4 sleeves. Thank you for all your wonderful patterns and great yarn.

Karine 10.02.2019 - 14:05:

Très joli, simple et belle couleur!

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