DROPS / 201 / 34

Sonora Sunrise by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with stripes. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern w-755
Yarn group C or A + A

S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g colour no 30, denim blue
150-150-200-200-200-250 g colour 32, light lavender
150-150-200-200-200-250 g colour 27, peach
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour 58, powder pink
100-150-150-150-150-150 g colour no 59, old pink
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 41, mustard

16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm : Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6-6-6-6-7-7 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 5-5-5-5-6-6 buttonholes, approx. 9-9-9½-9½-8½-8½ cm between each.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 104 stitches), minus band stitches (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 10) = 9.4. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 9th and 10th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

14-14-14½-14½-15-15 cm with powder pink.
9-9½-10-10½-11-11 cm with old pink.
2-2-2-2-2-2 cm with mustard.
9-9½-10-10½-11-11 cm with peach.
9-9½-10-10½-11-11 cm with light lavender.
Then work with denim blue until finished measurements.

All increases are done from the right side.
Increase for raglan in every transition between sleeves and body as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over = 2 stitches increased. On next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over to make a hole. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. Increase 8 stitches in total on every increase row.




Work yoke and body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down. Work entire garment in stocking stitch with stripes and edges in rib.

Cast on 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with powder pink. Purl 1 row from wrong side.
Then work as follows from right side: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above - * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches on needle in garter stitch. Work rib like this for 4 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see explanation above. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 10-14-18-18-14-18 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 114-122-130-134-134-142 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Purl 1 row from wrong side inside 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side.
Insert 4 marker threads in piece as follows (without working the stitches):
Insert first marker thread after the first 23-25-27-28-28-30 stitches (= front piece), insert 2nd marker thread after the next 16 stitches (= sleeve), insert 3rd marker thread after the next 36-40-44-46-46-50 stitches (= back piece), and insert 4th marker thread after the next 16 stitches (= sleeve), 23-25-27-28-28-30 stitches remain on round after last marker (= front piece).
Then work in stocking stitch and STRIPES with 5 band stitches in garter stitch, in each side towards mid front – AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side increase for RAGLAN in every transition between body and sleeves – read explanation above. Continue increase for raglan every other row (i.e. on every row from right side) until increase has been done 19-21-22-24-26-28 times in total on each side of the 4 marker threads. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After last increase there are 266-290-306-326-342-366 stitches on row and piece measures approx. 23-25-26-28-30-32 cm from cast-on edge mid front. If this measurements are not correct, continue to work without increases until piece has correct measurement. Work next row as follows from right side:
Work 44-47-50-54-57-62 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 50-56-58-60-62-64 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 78-84-90-98-104-114 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 50-56-58-60-62-64 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the 44-47-50-54-57-62 stitches as before (= front piece). Then finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

= 182-194-210-226-242-262 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and stripes with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side (work first row from wrong side). When piece measures 30-30-31-31-31-31 cm from division, knit 1 row from right side while increasing 34-38-42-42-46-50 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE TIP = 216-232-252-268-288-312 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work next row as follows from wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 4 cm. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use circular needle size 5.5 mm. Jacket measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm from shoulder and down.

Slip the 50-56-58-60-62-64 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 5.5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on in the side under sleeve = 58-64-68-70-74-76 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve and begin round here. Work in stocking stitch and continue with stripes as on body. When piece measures 31-30-29-27-26-24 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), knit 1 round while increasing 10-12-12-14-14-12 stitches evenly = 68-76-80-84-88-88 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use double pointed needles size 5.5 mm. Sleeve measures approx. 35-34-33-31-30-28 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Sew buttons on to left front piece.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 201-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Lin Janson 01.11.2019 - 16:52:

Jeg har begynt å strikke minste størrelsen i Drops Paris. Jeg bruker riktige strikkepinner, og fastheten er riktig, men etter å ha strikket 14cm av bærestykket har jeg bare .5 av siste garnnøstet i den fargen, og det kan jo ikke være nok for ermene.....?

DROPS Design 05.11.2019 kl. 09:19:

Hej Lin, men hvis du har strikket de første 14 cm af bærestykket ifølge opskriften, så har du også strikket det øverste af ærmerne med :)

Laura 12.09.2019 - 09:28:

Ho appena finito questo modello e sono molto contenta del risultato. Le spiegazioni sono chiarissime, i colori molto belli e il cotone morbido. Sono molto contenta, grazie di cuore

Laura 28.08.2019 - 13:48:

Buongiorno, vorrei sapere come fare a nascondere il cambio di colore tra le strisce: nel video proposto sono strisce che si susseguono, ma nel modello alla fine di una striscia di colore, lo stesso colore non viene più ripreso più avanti quindi non serve portare su il filo. Come nascondo le codine che si trovano proprio sul bordo del golfino?

DROPS Design 28.08.2019 kl. 14:17:

Buongiorno Laura. Può seguire le indicazioni del video che alleghiamo, avendo cura di passare il filo attraverso maglie dello stesso colore. Buon lavoro!

Geraldine Austin 12.08.2019 - 12:32:

Thank you for reply, my stitch count is correct then. However the original pattern is not. E.g. Your count and mine is 42+54=74+54+42=266. The pattern above shows 44+50+78+50+44=266 Size M should be 46+58+82+58+46=290. Pattern above shows 47+56+84+56+47=290 I have managed to to knit this as I am used to top down design but it needs to be changed. I spent some time checking the stitch counts to see the mistake whereas a might not.

DROPS Design 12.08.2019 kl. 12:59:

Dear Mrs Austin, depending on the size, the stitches worked for front/back and sleeve may be different, in size S you will work 2 sts from sleeve for body and in size M you will work 1 st from sleeve for body. Happy knitting!

Geraldine Austin 10.08.2019 - 19:49:

Problem with stitch count 23 for front +21 increase =44. Sleeve 16 + 42 increase =58. Back 36 +42= 78. This is the stitch count for 19 increases, but it takes 21 to get this no of stitches. Also first size has only 50 for sleeve, not possible as 16 + 19 increases 38 st =54. Totally confused.

DROPS Design 12.08.2019 kl. 07:51:

Dear Mrs Austin, in size S you increase 19 times (but 21 times in size M) so that you will have: 23+19 = 42 sts for each front piece - 16 + 38 = 54 sts for each sleeve and 36+38 = 74 sts for back piece = 266 sts in total. Happy knitting

Marianna 04.08.2019 - 13:07:

Hvilken størrelse er modellen?

DROPS Design 09.09.2019 kl. 14:06:

Hei Marianna. Er du usikker på hvilken størrelse du skal velge? Da hjelper det kanskje å vite at modellen på bildet er ca 170 cm høy og bruker størrelse S eller M. Om du lager en genser, jakke, kjole eller lignende, kan du finne en målskisse av det ferdige plagget (i cm) nederst i oppskriften. God Fornøyelse!

Connie 18.06.2019 - 05:04:


Mathilde 05.06.2019 - 14:14:

Hallo! Leider kann ic hmir die schöne >ANleitung nicht ausdrucken, es kommt nur eine Seite raus! Danke für eure Hilfe! Ich hab nämlich bereite die Wolle daheim!

DROPS Design 05.06.2019 kl. 14:53:

Liebe Mathilde, prüfen Sie bitte die Einstellungen von Ihrem Drucker, damit alle Seiten gedruckt werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Bezzola 25.05.2019 - 15:28:

Suche ein Muster Jacke zum häkeln

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 10:02:

Liebe Frau Bezzola, hier finden Sie alle unsere gehäkelten Jacke für Damen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Ann-Mari Lindberg 26.01.2019 - 17:55:

Jättefin ! Den ska jag sticka

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