Caitlyn by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked sideways and diagonally with lace pattern and garter stitch.

DROPS Design: Pattern no z-848
Yarn group A

Measurements: Height in middle approx. 46 cm = 18”. Length along top approx. 170 cm = 66 3/4”.
Length along bind-off edge approx. 93 cm = 36 5/8” (= short side)

DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200 g color 6205, light blue

23 stitches in width and 45 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: length 80 cm = 32”.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.



RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

See diagrams A.1-A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from right side




The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle so that you have room for all the stitches. It is worked sideways and diagonally in GARTER STITCH – read description above.

Cast on 4 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and Alpaca. Knit 1 row.
Work diagram A.1; when the diagram has been worked 1 time in height there are 22 stitches on the needle.

Work diagram A.2 over 10 stitches, A.3 over 8 stitches (1 time in width) and A.4 over 4 stitches. When the diagrams have been worked 1 time in height there are 30 stitches on the needle.

Work diagram A.2 over 10 stitches, A.3 over 16 stitches (2 times in width) and A.4 over 4 stitches. When the diagrams have been worked 1 time in height there are 38 stitches on the needle.

Continue working like this according to the diagrams; each time you work the diagrams 1 time in height there is room for more 1 repeat of diagram A.3 between A.2 and A.4.
Continue working like this until A.2-A.4 have been worked a total of 25 times in height or to desired length.

It is important that the bind-off side is stretchy; this is one of the short sides of the shawl. Loosely bind off with knit and make 1 yarn over after each 5th stitch; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = purl from wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; knit the yarn over on the next row to leave a hole.
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs; on the next row knit the first yarn over and drop the second

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-37) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

signature-image signature

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Judy Davis wrote:

I am trying to figure out pattern 199-37 (Caitlyn) shawl. I am English and cannot read all the comments in a different language. Is there a way to convert to English? As well the Diagram explanations do not match the diagrams in the charts?

23.12.2021 - 17:40

country flag Jane wrote:

Hej. Jeg får en ret onduleret side (af de to ens). Nu vil jeg gerne have, at aflukningen kommer til at se lige sådan ud. Bør jeg lukke af, som i skriver, med et omslag pr 5. maske, eller har i bedre forslag? Venlig hilsen Jane

05.11.2021 - 11:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jane. Anbefaler å gjøre slik det står i oppskriften og når sjalet er ferdig kan du legg det i lunkent vann til det er gjennomvått. Press forsiktig ut vannet (det må ikke vris). Rull sjalet i et håndkle og klem forsiktig for å fjerne enda mer vann - sjalet vil nå bare være litt fuktig. Legg sjalet forsiktig ut i form og la det tørke. Gjenta prosessen hver gang skjerfet vaskes. mvh DROPS Design

08.11.2021 kl. 13:41

country flag Carine P wrote:

Bonjour je suis arrivée à l'étape ou je dois rabattre les mailles mais je ne comprends pas ce qu'il faut faire : doit on faire sur l'endroit un rang avec 1 jeté toutes 5 mailles et rabattre sur l'envers ? Ou tout autre chose ? Ce fut un vrai plaisir de tricoter ce modèle 😀 Merci

24.04.2021 - 15:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carine, rabattez les mailles sur l'endroit ainsi: *rabattez 5 mailles, faites 1 jeté et rabattez le jeté comme une maille normale*, répétez de *-* jusqu'à ce que vous ayez rabattu toutes les mailles. Cette vidéo montre comment rabattre les mailles avec des jetés. Bon tricot!

26.04.2021 kl. 07:35

country flag Marta wrote:

Bonjour, je trouve ce modèle ravissant et j'aimerais beaucoup le réaliser. J'ai appris à tricoter seule mais suis incapable de lire un diagramme. Où pourrais-je trouver les explications écrites? Merci.

12.03.2021 - 08:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marta, nous n'avons que des diagrammes pour ce modèle, toutefois, vous pourrez comprendre comment les suivre en lisant cette leçon. Bon tricot!

12.03.2021 kl. 13:33

country flag Géraldine Duroy wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse. Je réalise que je n’étais pas claire. Le châle est sensé être un triangle. Mais si je répète 25 fois A2 et A4, est-ce que à mi parcours, je dois diminuer le nombre de répétitions de A3? Est-ce que je dois augmenter en A2 et diminuer en A4 pour former ce triangle ? Merci pour votre réponse

27.10.2020 - 20:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Duroy, en fait le triangle va être formé non pas de bas en haut mais en diagonale: on commence par une des extrémités du châle et on augmente pour obtenir la largeur souhaitée, puis on continue en augmentant à un rythme moins soutenu (en répétant A.2-A.4) et on continue à former ainsi le triangle: les mailles montées sont l'une des extrémités du châle et les mailles rabattues vont former la diagonale opposée du châle. Bon tricot!

28.10.2020 kl. 07:48

country flag Duroy, Géraldine wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends comment diminuer le travail. Est-ce que je dois diminuer à partir de la moitié des 25 répétitions ? Si oui, comment La diminution doit-le se faire à droite au à gauche du travail ? D'avance merci . Géraldine

26.10.2020 - 16:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Duroy, je ne suis pas bien sûre de comprendre de quelles diminutions vous parlez, quand vous avez vos 38 mailles, vous continuez à tricoter: A.2 en début de rang sur l'endroit/fin de rang sur l'envers, répétez ensuite A.3 et terminez par A.4 (fin de rang sur l'endroit/début de rang sur l'envers). Vous allez ainsi diminuer tous les 4 rangs dans A.2 et augmenter tous les 2 rangs dans A.4 - à chaque fois que vous avez tricoté ces 3 diagrammes en hauteur, vous avez augmenté 8 mailles. Si ces explications complémentaires ne vous aident pas, merci de bien vouloir préciser votre pensée - merci d'avance pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!

27.10.2020 kl. 11:42

country flag Ingveig wrote:

Ang siste to m på A2, 1. runde, strikkes disse sammen? Eller er det ta løst av - 1 rett - dra over? Får ikke til å løfte av like etter to kast ..

03.06.2020 - 14:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. De två sista maskorna på rad 1 i diagram A.2 stickas rett sammen. Mvh DROPS Design

05.06.2020 kl. 11:36

country flag Ingveig Olstad Hansen wrote:

Skal første maske strikkes eller løftes av?

05.05.2020 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ingveig, vi strikker gerne kantmasken. Men vi ved at flere også gerne løfter kantmasken af og det er en smags sag, så vælg det som passer dig bedst. God fornøjelse!

05.05.2020 kl. 12:25

country flag Jolanta wrote:

Co oznaczają we wzorze -schemacie A2 i A 3 czarne haczyki , zwrócone raz w lewo, raz w prawo, nie ma ich w objaśnieniu wzoru.

27.03.2020 - 09:19

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Jolu, to są 2 symbole połączone razem: ukośna kreska oznacza zamknięcie 1 o. poprzez a) przerobienie 2 o.razem na prawo lub b) zdjęcie 1 oczko jak do przerobienia na prawo, 1 oczko prawe i przełożyć oczko zdjęte nad przerobionym oczkiem. Owalne kółeczko oznacza narzut (jest różnica między kółeczkiem wypełnionym na czarno i niewypełnionym, zobacz legendę). Pozdrawiamy

27.03.2020 kl. 09:28

country flag Ursula Schaefer wrote:

Anleitung zu Caitlyn Modell z-848 : Bedeutet 4 M anschlagen wirklich nur 4 M oder 6 M , also 2 Randmaschen zu den 4 M ?

28.02.2020 - 10:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schaeffer, das Tuch beginnt mit 4 Maschen, und A.1 wird dann über diese 4 Maschen (bei 1. Reihe) gestrickt. Extra Maschen braucht man hier nicht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.02.2020 kl. 13:21

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 199-37

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.