DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Jolina

Knitted jacket in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked in garter stitch with lace pattern and ¾-length balloon sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 200-23

#jolinacardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern no ks-144
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-125-150-150 g colour 30, curry

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 45 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 80 cm for garter stitch and lace pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 80 cm for edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 3-3-3-4-4-4 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Women Jackets & Cardigans Basic Cardigans bottom up garter stitch lace round neck sewn in sleeves

DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits in between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread and 4 stitches increased on row). On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of sleeves):
All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease after the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch as follows: Knit 2 twisted together.
Decrease before the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the edge stitch and knit 2 together.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes from the right side on the right band (when the garment is worn). 1 BUTTONHOLE = Purl third and fourth stitch from the edge together and make 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 18, 25 and 32 cm
M: 18, 26 and 34 cm
L: 19, 27 and 35 cm
XL: 19, 25, 31 and 37 cm
XXL: 20, 26, 32 and 38 cm
XXXL: 22, 28, 34 and 40 cm
NOTE: The last of these 3-3-3-4-4-4 buttonholes is worked on the first row when knitting up stitches for the neck.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, bottom up as far as the armholes. Then cast off for armholes and the front and back pieces are continued separately back and forth on needle. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle, bottom up. The garment is sewn together to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 179-195-219-243-267-299 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3.5 mm and 2 strands Kid-Silk (this is done to avoid the cast-on edge being tight). Remove 1 strand and continue with just 1 strand Kid-Silk as follows: Work 2 RIDGES – read description above, but the outermost 5 stitches on each side are purled on all rows to finished length (= bands – when the bands are purled on each row they will be distinct from the rest of the garment).
After the 2 ridges, work the next row from the right side as follows: 5 purled band stitches, work A.1 (= 4 stitches), work A.2 until there are 10 stitches left on row (= 20-22-25-28-31-35 repeats of 8 stitches), work A.3 (= 5 stitches) and finish with 5 purled band stitches. Continue this pattern until you have worked 3 repeats in height. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! The piece now measures approx. 9 cm from the cast-on edge.
Insert 1 marker thread 47-51-57-63-69-77 stitches in from each side (= 85-93-105-117-129-145 stitches between marker threads on back piece). Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Work garter stitch back and forth over all stitches; the bands are purled on each row as before.
When the piece measures 10 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4-4-5-5-5-6 cm a total of 4 times on each side = 195-211-235-259-283-315 stitches. Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above! Continue working until the piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm.
Now cast off for the armholes; i.e. the next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work 48-52-56-61-67-74 stitches as before (= left front piece), cast off 6-6-10-12-12-14 stitches for armhole (i.e. cast off 3-3-5-6-6-7 stitches on each side of the marker thread), knit 87-95-103-113-125-139 stitches (= back piece), cast off 6-6-10-12-12-14 stitches for armhole (e. cast off 3-3-5-6-6-7 stitches on each side of the marker thread) and work the remaining 48-52-56-61-67-74 stitches as before (= right front piece). Front and back pieces are continued separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
= 48-52-56-61-67-74 stitches. Continue back and forth with garter stitch and 5 purled band stitches towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 0-1-1-2-2-3 times and then 1 stitch 1-2-5-6-10-14 times = 47-48-49-51-53-54 stitches left on front piece. Continue working until the piece measures 32-34-35-37-38-40 cm. Now place the outermost 8-8-9-9-10-10 stitches towards mid front on 1 thread for neck, but to avoid having to cut the strand you are working with, work the stitches before putting them on the thread.
Then cast off for the neck at the beginning of the each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 4 times and 1 stitch 4 times = 24-25-25-27-28-29 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm. Loosely cast off with knit from the right side and 2 strands Kid-Silk (this is done to avoid the cast-off edge being tight).

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
= 48-52-56-61-67-74 stitches. Continue back and forth with garter stitch and 5 purled band stitches towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 0-1-1-2-2-3 times and then 1 stitch 1-2-5-6-10-14 times = 47-48-49-51-53-54 stitches left on front piece. Continue working until the piece measures 32-34-35-37-38-40 cm. Now place the outermost 8-8-9-9-10-10 stitches towards mid front on 1 thread for neck, but to avoid having to cut the strand you are working with, work the stitches before putting them on the thread.
Then cast off for the neck at the beginning of the each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 4 times and 1 stitch 4 times = 24-25-25-27-28-29 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm. Loosely cast off with knit from the right side and 2 strands Kid-Silk.

BACK PIECE:
= 87-95-103-113-125-139 stitches. Continue back and forth with garter stitch over all stitches. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 0-1-1-2-2-3 times and then 1 stitch 1-2-5-6-10-14 times = 85-87-89-93-97-99 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm. Now cast off the middle 33-33-35-35-37-37 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue back and forth with garter stitch and cast off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck = 24-25-25-27-28-29 stitches left. Continue working until the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm. Loosely cast off with knit from the right side and 2 strands Kid-Silk.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 56-58-60-62-64-66 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3 mm and 2 strands Kid-Silk. Remove the one strand and continue with just 1 strand Kid-Silk as follows: Work 5 ridges back and forth over all stitches. On the next row increase 1 stitch in each stitch by knitting in both the front and back loops in all stitches on the row = 112-116-120-124-128-132 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work garter stitch back and forth over all stitches. When the piece measures 5 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side – read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 1½ cm a total of 18-17-16-15-14-14 times on each side = 76-82-88-94-100-104 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 33-33-31-31-30-28 cm. Now cast off stitches on each side for sleeve cap at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time on each side, 2 stitches 3-3-5-6-6-6 times on each side and 1 stitch 3-4-6-7-9-16 times on each side. Then cast off 2 stitches on each side until the piece measures approx. 37-38-38-39-39-40 cm. Cast off 3 stitches 1 time on each side and then cast off the remaining stitches with knit from the right side and 2 strands Kid-Silk. The sleeve measures approx. 38-39-39-40-40-41 cm from the top down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew sleeve seams inside the 1 edge stitch on each side. Sew in sleeves - sew in outermost loop of outermost stitch along the armhole. Sew buttons onto left band.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 114 to 130 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the threads at front) with circular needle size 3 mm and 1 strand Kid-Silk remember to work the last buttonhole on the right band AT THE SAME TIME.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side, knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Loosely cast off with knit from the right side and 2 strands Kid-Silk.

Diagram

	= knit from right side
	= knit from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
	= 1 repeat in height

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
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Comments / Questions (41)

Vieyra wrote:

Hi. Can you please explain row 5 : A 3 , I end up with only 2 last stitches to knit instead of 3 Thks in advance

05.12.2024 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vieyra, you should work: band stitches, k3 (= A.1), *1 YO, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, k2tog and pass slipped stitch over, 1 YO* (* to * are worked over last stitch of A.1 and 1st stitch of A.2 in the previous row). k5 (the rest of A.2) and work from * to * once again (over last stitch of a repeat of A.2 and 1st stitch of the next repeat of A.2 of the previous row). In the last repeat, after * to *, k5 (to end the A.2 repeat) and work * to * (over last stitch of A.2 and 1st of A.3 in the previous row) and k3 (= A.3), then band stitches. The number of stitches remains the same (you aren't actually decreasing or increasing stitches) so the row should fit. Happy knitting!

08.12.2024 - 12:43

Vieura wrote:

Hi, Is it possible to eliminate the bottom design and do all the cardigan in knit stitch? Would this alter the pattern and need modifications? Thks in advance

05.12.2024 - 11:55

Dear Vieura, you can work the whole cardigan in garter stitch. Since you didn't change the number of stitches when working the lace pattern then it shouldn't affect the garment's width. However, you may want to add a lower edge to the garment, so that it will look neatly and not roll upwards. For example, working a few more ridges instead of just 2. Happy knitting!

08.12.2024 - 13:00

Hi is it possible to knit Jolina ( is 144) ( 200-23) with double strand of Kid Silk?\r\nWould this modify the gauge?\r\nHow should I proceed?\r\nThank you

25.11.2024 - 23:37

Hi Vieyra, If you use 2 strands instead of the recommended 1 strand, you will double the thickness of the garment. This means you will get approx. half the rows/stitches on your 10 x 10 cm swatch and will need to adjust the pattern/needle size accordingly. Good luck!

26.11.2024 - 06:49

Eva wrote:

Prosim, bylo by mozne prelozit tento navod do cj? Predem dekuji.

04.07.2024 - 09:20

Dobrý den, Evo, ano, rádi jej přidáme - sledujte prosím dál naše stránky, během 1-2 dnů bude český návod k dispozici :-) Hezký den! Hana

04.07.2024 - 12:51

Annie JAVOY wrote:

Bonjour.pourriez vous me donner les instructions si je veux tricoter les manches en tubulaire avec les aiguilles circulaires pour qu il n y ai pas de coutures . Merci d avance

13.05.2024 - 16:06

Bonjour Mme Javoy, pour un gilet sans coutures, vous pouvez consulter nos modèles de gilets ou vestes avec emmanchures raglan, empiècement arrondi, manches marteau ou même épaules européennes - retrouvez-les tous ici et choisissez le type d'empiècement et le type de construction, autrement dit, à tricoter de bas en haut ou de haut en bas, n'hésitez pas à ajouter des filtres si besoin. Bon tricot!

14.05.2024 - 07:27

Bo jour j aimerai me tricoter ce beau gilet jolina . J ai acheté 6 pelotes kid s'il et un kit d aiguilles circulaires drops romance Je ne comprends pas pour les explications du modèle si la taille 3,5 corresponds à une taille us ou en taille mm Cordialement

08.05.2024 - 16:34

Bonjour Mme Javoy, pour trouver votre taille, mesurez un vêtement similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma (indiquées en cm), retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

10.05.2024 - 07:42

Christine Schwarz wrote:

Hallo zusammen, ich stricke gerade das Modell 200-23 und würde gerne wissen, ob in der Rückrunde bei dem Muster der Umschlag auch rechts gestrickt wird, oder ob man die Masche von der Nadel fallen lässt. Ich würde mich über eine zeitnahe Antwort von Ihnen freuen. Viele Grüße Christine Schwarz

25.01.2023 - 11:24

Liebe Frau Schwarz, die Diagramme zeigen alle Reihen im Muster, dh bei den Rückreihen werden alle Maschen sowie Umschläge rechts gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.01.2023 - 12:16

Antoinette Allocco Edlund wrote:

När jag skrev ut mönstret kom inte diagrammet med

01.03.2022 - 20:41

På mönstret står det att 10x10 cm Är 23 m på bredde och 45 varv på höjden På garnbanderollen står det 10x10 cm 23 m på bredden och 30 på höjden Allt på drivor 3 1/2 Vilket är det rätta

01.03.2022 - 20:28

Hej Antoinette. Stickfastheten på banderollen är i slätstickning och på mönstret är det uppgett i rätstickning. Du ska alltså få den stickfasthet som uppges på mönstret i rätstickning. Mvh DROPS Design

02.03.2022 - 11:50

Vasantha Nathan wrote:

Total how many 12 rows of pattern do you knit?r . You say 3 repeats of pattern according to diagram. so total 4 pattern set of 12 rows. am I right? Thanks

26.02.2022 - 01:34

Dear Vasantha, you work 3 repeats in total, so you need to work 3 x 12 pattern rows. The rest is worked in garter stitch. Happy knitting!

27.02.2022 - 17:40