DROPS / 200 / 23

Jolina by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked in garter stitch with lace pattern and ¾-length balloon sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Jolina / DROPS 200-23 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked in garter stitch with lace pattern and ¾-length balloon sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Jolina / DROPS 200-23 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked in garter stitch with lace pattern and ¾-length balloon sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Jolina / DROPS 200-23 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked in garter stitch with lace pattern and ¾-length balloon sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Jolina / DROPS 200-23 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked in garter stitch with lace pattern and ¾-length balloon sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Jolina / DROPS 200-23 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked in garter stitch with lace pattern and ¾-length balloon sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ks-144
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-125-150-150 g colour 30, curry

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 45 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 80 cm for garter stitch and lace pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 80 cm for edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 3-3-3-4-4-4 items.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits in between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread and 4 stitches increased on row). On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of sleeves):
All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease after the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch as follows: Knit 2 twisted together.
Decrease before the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the edge stitch and knit 2 together.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes from the right side on the right band (when the garment is worn). 1 BUTTONHOLE = Purl third and fourth stitch from the edge together and make 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 18, 25 and 32 cm
M: 18, 26 and 34 cm
L: 19, 27 and 35 cm
XL: 19, 25, 31 and 37 cm
XXL: 20, 26, 32 and 38 cm
XXXL: 22, 28, 34 and 40 cm
NOTE: The last of these 3-3-3-4-4-4 buttonholes is worked on the first row when knitting up stitches for the neck.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, bottom up as far as the armholes. Then cast off for armholes and the front and back pieces are continued separately back and forth on needle. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle, bottom up. The garment is sewn together to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 179-195-219-243-267-299 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3.5 mm and 2 strands Kid-Silk (this is done to avoid the cast-on edge being tight). Remove 1 strand and continue with just 1 strand Kid-Silk as follows: Work 2 RIDGES – read description above, but the outermost 5 stitches on each side are purled on all rows to finished length (= bands – when the bands are purled on each row they will be distinct from the rest of the garment).
After the 2 ridges, work the next row from the right side as follows: 5 purled band stitches, work A.1 (= 4 stitches), work A.2 until there are 10 stitches left on row (= 20-22-25-28-31-35 repeats of 8 stitches), work A.3 (= 5 stitches) and finish with 5 purled band stitches. Continue this pattern until you have worked 3 repeats in height. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! The piece now measures approx. 9 cm from the cast-on edge.
Insert 1 marker thread 47-51-57-63-69-77 stitches in from each side (= 85-93-105-117-129-145 stitches between marker threads on back piece). Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Work garter stitch back and forth over all stitches; the bands are purled on each row as before.
When the piece measures 10 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4-4-5-5-5-6 cm a total of 4 times on each side = 195-211-235-259-283-315 stitches. Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above! Continue working until the piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm.
Now cast off for the armholes; i.e. the next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work 48-52-56-61-67-74 stitches as before (= left front piece), cast off 6-6-10-12-12-14 stitches for armhole (i.e. cast off 3-3-5-6-6-7 stitches on each side of the marker thread), knit 87-95-103-113-125-139 stitches (= back piece), cast off 6-6-10-12-12-14 stitches for armhole (e. cast off 3-3-5-6-6-7 stitches on each side of the marker thread) and work the remaining 48-52-56-61-67-74 stitches as before (= right front piece). Front and back pieces are continued separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
= 48-52-56-61-67-74 stitches. Continue back and forth with garter stitch and 5 purled band stitches towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 0-1-1-2-2-3 times and then 1 stitch 1-2-5-6-10-14 times = 47-48-49-51-53-54 stitches left on front piece. Continue working until the piece measures 32-34-35-37-38-40 cm. Now place the outermost 8-8-9-9-10-10 stitches towards mid front on 1 thread for neck, but to avoid having to cut the strand you are working with, work the stitches before putting them on the thread.
Then cast off for the neck at the beginning of the each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 4 times and 1 stitch 4 times = 24-25-25-27-28-29 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm. Loosely cast off with knit from the right side and 2 strands Kid-Silk (this is done to avoid the cast-off edge being tight).

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
= 48-52-56-61-67-74 stitches. Continue back and forth with garter stitch and 5 purled band stitches towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 0-1-1-2-2-3 times and then 1 stitch 1-2-5-6-10-14 times = 47-48-49-51-53-54 stitches left on front piece. Continue working until the piece measures 32-34-35-37-38-40 cm. Now place the outermost 8-8-9-9-10-10 stitches towards mid front on 1 thread for neck, but to avoid having to cut the strand you are working with, work the stitches before putting them on the thread.
Then cast off for the neck at the beginning of the each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 4 times and 1 stitch 4 times = 24-25-25-27-28-29 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm. Loosely cast off with knit from the right side and 2 strands Kid-Silk.

BACK PIECE:
= 87-95-103-113-125-139 stitches. Continue back and forth with garter stitch over all stitches. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 0-1-1-2-2-3 times and then 1 stitch 1-2-5-6-10-14 times = 85-87-89-93-97-99 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm. Now cast off the middle 33-33-35-35-37-37 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue back and forth with garter stitch and cast off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck = 24-25-25-27-28-29 stitches left. Continue working until the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm. Loosely cast off with knit from the right side and 2 strands Kid-Silk.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 56-58-60-62-64-66 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3 mm and 2 strands Kid-Silk. Remove the one strand and continue with just 1 strand Kid-Silk as follows: Work 5 ridges back and forth over all stitches. On the next row increase 1 stitch in each stitch by knitting in both the front and back loops in all stitches on the row = 112-116-120-124-128-132 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work garter stitch back and forth over all stitches. When the piece measures 5 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side – read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 1½ cm a total of 18-17-16-15-14-14 times on each side = 76-82-88-94-100-104 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 33-33-31-31-30-28 cm. Now cast off stitches on each side for sleeve cap at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time on each side, 2 stitches 3-3-5-6-6-6 times on each side and 1 stitch 3-4-6-7-9-16 times on each side. Then cast off 2 stitches on each side until the piece measures approx. 37-38-38-39-39-40 cm. Cast off 3 stitches 1 time on each side and then cast off the remaining stitches with knit from the right side and 2 strands Kid-Silk. The sleeve measures approx. 38-39-39-40-40-41 cm from the top down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY: 
Sew shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew sleeve seams inside the 1 edge stitch on each side. Sew in sleeves - sew in outermost loop of outermost stitch along the armhole. Sew buttons onto left band.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 114 to 130 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the threads at front) with circular needle size 3 mm and 1 strand Kid-Silk remember to work the last buttonhole on the right band AT THE SAME TIME.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side, knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Loosely cast off with knit from the right side and 2 strands Kid-Silk.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = 1 repeat in height
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 200-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Alex 07.06.2021 - 19:47:

Is it possible to knit this knit with 2 threads of kid-silk instead of 1 thread?

user icon DROPS Design 07.06.2021 kl. 23:33:

Dear Alex, while it is of course possible, you have to be aware, that knitting it with double strands would throw off the gauge, and you will have to entirely recalculate the stitchcounts and such. Happy Knitting!

country flag Frederike 23.04.2021 - 10:04:

Wat wordt er bedoeld met 'Naai de schoudernaden aan de binnenkant van de afkantrand' ? wat is de binnenkant van de afkantrand?

user icon DROPS Design 25.04.2021 kl. 18:25:

Dag Frederike,

Het is de bedoeling dat je de schoudernaden aan de binnenkant, dus aan de verkeerde kant dicht naait, zodat je het aan de buitenkant niet ziet.

country flag Mirana Razafindrakoto 22.03.2021 - 09:20:

Bonjour, sur les explications des points, quand vous dites une maille endroit sur endroit, le second endroit s'agit il d'une maille ou de l'endroit du travail. Merci

user icon DROPS Design 22.03.2021 kl. 09:42:

Bonjour Mme Razafindrakoto, je ne suis pas sûre de comprendre ce que vous entendez par "second endroit". Les diagrammes se tricotent au point mousse (= à l'endroit sur l'endroit et à l'endroit sur l'envers) avec des diminutions et des jetés sur les rangs tricotés sur l'endroit pour former le point ajouré. Bon tricot!

country flag Amie 19.03.2021 - 12:04:

Hi, I'm new to knitting charts and wanted to clarify how to read these ones properly. I was told the charts are usually done from bottom right to left. Is this the case for these charts? The only ones I've used so far have had the rows numbered, so I don't want to get it wrong.

user icon DROPS Design 19.03.2021 kl. 12:14:

Dear Amie, correct, you will read the diagram from the bottom up - you'll find more informations about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

country flag Anna 10.03.2021 - 22:48:

Az ujja fogyasztas forditasa teljesen rossz. Az angol verzioban 3-4-6-7-9 alkalommal fogyaszt 1 szemet ehelyett a magyar forditasban ennyi szem marad a tün. Mivel utana meg jocskan fogyasztani kell, a magyar leiras szerint tobbet kell fogyasztani mint amennyi osszesen van.

country flag Anne 21.02.2021 - 18:19:

Bonjour, Je suis étonnée d'avoir A1 à gauche et A3 à droite; dois-je lire le diagramme de gauche à droite? D'autre part j'ai l'habitude de mettre un anneau marqueur après chaque A2 par sécurité; mais au rang 5 le surjet double dépasse la grille, je dois donc les enlever, je suppose que c'est normal... Je vous remercie de vos réponses

user icon DROPS Design 22.02.2021 kl. 08:55:

Bonjour Anne, on commence les diagrammes sur l'endroit par A.1, autrement dit, A.1 va se trouver sur le devant droit, juste après la bordure devant et vous terminerez le devant gauche sur l'endroit par A.3, juste la bordure devant. Effectivement, au 5ème rang, la dernière maille de A.3 (et de chaque A.2) va se tricoter avec les 2 premières m du A.2 suivant (de A.3). Bon tricot!

country flag Doc 11.08.2020 - 05:02:

Hello, I’m at the part to bind-off for the armholes (size S). I worked 48 stitches and need to bind off 6 stitches, 3 on each side of the marker. My problem is I can bind off 2 stitches but I’m left with 1 stitch before the marker and I don’t know how to drop the third stitch. I’m using a stitch marker. Could you please explain what I need to do. Thank you.

user icon DROPS Design 11.08.2020 kl. 08:55:

Dear Doc, work the first 48 sts (= 3 sts remain before marker), cast off the next 3 sts (you should have now passed the marker), cast off the 3 sts after marker = you have cast off a total of 6 sts, then work the next 87 sts; cast off the next 6 sts = 48 sts should remain on needle. Happy knitting!

country flag Ingrid 26.04.2020 - 13:21:

Bonjour j aimerai avoir une explication pour le motif à répéter 3 fois. Merci beaucoup

user icon DROPS Design 27.04.2020 kl. 09:13:

Bonjour Ingrid, de quelle explications avez-vous besoin? Les diagrammes doivent se tricoter 3 fois en hauteur au total, autrement dit, quand vous les avez tricoté une fois (= 12 rangs) vous les reprenez au 1er rang et tricotez ces 12 rangs encore 1 fois, puis encore 1 autre fois, vous avez donc un total de 36 rangs tricotés dans le point ajouré. Bon tricot!

country flag Carina 17.08.2019 - 10:34:

Wat bedoelt u in de beschrijving met: als het kledingstuk gedragen wordt?

user icon DROPS Design 01.09.2019 kl. 13:13:

Dag Carina,

Hiermee wordt de positie bedoeld gezien zoals het kledingstuk gedragen wordt. Dus bijvoorbeeld bij de knopen zitten de knoopsgaten op de rechter voorbies als je het vest aan hebt.

country flag Joanna 20.07.2019 - 17:38:

Witam, czy zamykanie oczek na zaokrąglenie rękawa odbywa się na każdej stronie robótki, bez względu na to czy to lewa czy prawa strona? Pozdrawiam

user icon DROPS Design 21.07.2019 kl. 21:51:

Witaj Joanno! Zamykasz oczka z każdej strony (z prawej i lewej strony robótki) zawsze na początku rzędu, np. ‘zamknąć 1 raz 3 oczka z każdej strony’ oznacza zamknąć 3 o. na początku rzędu na prawej stronie robótki, a następnie zamknąć 3 o. na początku rzędu w kolejnym rzędzie (na lewej stronie robótki). Pozdrawiamy i życzmy miłej pracy!

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