DROPS / 202 / 12

Birch Woods Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern ai-206
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 02, wheat

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
16 stitches in width and 23 rows vertically with lace pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm, length 80 cm for edges in garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over = hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 3, 12, 22, 32, 42 and 51 cm
M: 3, 13, 23, 33, 43 and 53 cm
L: 4, 15, 25, 35, 45 and 55 cm
XL: 3, 12, 21, 30, 39, 48 and 57, cm
XXL: 3, 13, 22, 31, 40, 49 and 59, cm
XXXL: 4, 15, 24, 33, 42, 51 and 61, cm

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.4 to A.9).

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch/pattern.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
All decreases are done from the right side!
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 249 stitches), minus band stitches (10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 38) = 6.3. 
In this example decrease by knitting alternately approx. every 5th and 6th stitch and every 6th and 7th stitch together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, and work bottom up to armholes. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, bottom up. Then slip body and sleeves together and finish yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front.

BODY:
Cast on 171-181-201-211-231-251 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 5 mm with Air. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH back and forth - read explanation above! Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work from right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 10 stitches, repeat A.2 until 6 stitches remain (= 15-16-18-19-21-23 repetitions of 10 stitches), A.3 over next stitch, finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue until A.1, A.2 and A.3 have been worked vertically. Then work in stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front until piece measures 12-12-13-14-13-13 cm (or desired measurements - adjust the length of garment here is desired) - REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work next row from right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.4 over the next 10 stitches, repeat A.5 until 6 stitches remain (= 15-16-18-19-21-23 repetitions of 10 stitches), A.6 over next stitch, finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern until A.4, A.5 and A.6 have been worked vertically.
Repeat A.4, A.5 and A.6 1 more time vertically, but work last row from wrong side as follows: Work 42-45-49-51-55-59 stitches as before (= left front piece), cast off the next 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches for armhole, work 75-79-87-93-101-109 stitches as before (= back piece), cast off the next 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches for armhole and work the last 42-45-49-51-55-59 stitches as before (= right front piece) = 159-169-185-195-211-227 stitches. Piece measures approx. 32-32-33-34-35-35 cm. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 31-33-35-37-39-41 stitches on double pointed needles size 5 mm with Air. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - read explanation above. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round and move the marker thread upwards when working. Use marker thread later when increasing mid under sleeve. Switch to double pointed needles/circular needle size 5.5 mm.
Work next round as follows: Knit 0-1-2-3-4-0, A.1 over the next 10 stitches, repeat A.2 until 1-2-3-4-5-1 stitch remains on round (= 2-2-2-2-2-3 repetitions of 10 stitches), finish by knitting 1-2-3-4-5-1. Continue until A.1 and A.2 have been worked vertically. Then work in stocking stitch - REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 7-7-8-7-9-8 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3½-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm 10-12-14-15-16-16 times in total = 51-57-63-67-71-73 stitches. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 21-19-19-18-16-14 cm (or desired measurements - adjust the sleeve length here if desired), work A.5 over all stitches – adjust so that stitch with star is mid on top of sleeve, and adjust pattern out to each side. I.e. when increases under sleeve are done, work as follows: Knit 0-3-1-3-0-1, A.4 (= 10 stitches), A.5 (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 repetitions of 10 stitches), A.6 over 1 stitch and knit 0-3-1-3-0-1. Work the stitches that do not fit the pattern in stocking stitch, and work the increased stitches in pattern A.4/A.5/A.6 (make sure to have the same number of decreases and yarn overs in the pattern). Continue this pattern until A.5 has been worked vertically. Repeat A.4/A.5/A.6 1 more time vertically, but work last round as follows: Cast off the first 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches for armhole, work 45-51-55-59-61-61 stitches as before and cast off the last 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches for armhole = 45-51-55-59-61-61 stitches. Piece measures approx. 41-39-39-38-38-36 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle 5.5 mm as body where armholes were cast off = 249-271-295-313-333-349 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Begin from right side and work first row as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.7 over the next 10 stitches, repeat A.8 until 6 stitches remain (number of stitches does not fit on 1st row – except in size M), A.9 over next stitch, finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern - AT THE SAME TIME on round marked with arrow in A.7/A.8 decrease evenly as explained below:
ARROW-1 (= wrong side): Decrease 38-40-44-42-42-38 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 211-231-251-271-291-311 stitches.
(Now work A.8 19-21-23-25-27-29 times in width).
ARROW-2 (= wrong side): Decrease 40-50-50-50-40-40 stitches evenly = 171-181-201-221-251-271 stitches.
(Now work A.8 15-16-18-20-23-25 times in width).
ARROW-3 (= wrong side): Decrease 40-40-40-40-40-40 stitches evenly = 131-141-161-181-211-231 stitches.
(Now work A.8 11-12-14-16-19-21 times in width).
ARROW-4 (= wrong side): Decrease 28-30-42-30-40-40 stitches evenly = 103-111-119-151-171-191 stitches.
ARROW-5: Decrease 16-20-18-28-42-30 stitches evenly = 87-91-101-123-129-161 stitches.

SIZE: XL-XXL:
ARROW-6: Decrease 18-20 stitches evenly = 105-109 stitches.

SIZE XXXL:
ARROW-6 (= wrong side): Decrease 28 stitches evenly = 133 stitches.
ARROW-7 (= wrong side): Decrease 20 stitches evenly = 113 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
When entire A.7, A.8 and A.9 have been worked, yoke measures approx. 20-22-23-24-25-27 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work 2 ridges in garter stitch back and forth. Loosely cast off by knitting from right side but make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge (switch to larger needle size if needed).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.06.2020
New chart A.3, row 9.

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over (= hole)
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted (= NOT hole)
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
= purl 2 together
= purl 3 together
= decrease row
= middle stitch mid on top of sleeve







Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 202-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

Lisa Lebrija 07.06.2020 - 22:39:

Undskyld mit sidste spørgsmål. Jeg manglede en pind.

DROPS Design 09.06.2020 kl. 11:59:

God fornøyelse videre på denne flotte jakken. mvh DROPS dedsign

Lisa Lebrija 07.06.2020 - 22:20:

Hej, i mønster A.5 på 19 pind må der også være fejl i slutningen, for jeg slutter også her med 2 ret og 5 kantmasker, i stedet for 1 ret og 5 kanrmasker. Hvor opstår fejlen? Strikker str. M.

DROPS Design 09.06.2020 kl. 11:56:

Hei Lisa. Flott at du selv fant du hvor feilen oppstod. mvh DROPS design

Lisa Lebrija 05.06.2020 - 22:07:

Nu er jeg begyndt at strikke i str. M, og i sidste mønsterpind på kroppen i mønster A.2 slutter jeg med 10 ret og 5 kantmasker. Jeg har strikket om 3-4 gange, og kan ikke få det anderledes, med mindre jeg vil slutte med 2 sammen, slå om, 1 ret, 5 kantm. Hvor er fejlen?

DROPS Design 09.06.2020 kl. 08:48:

Hei Lisa. Her burde det være lagt til en maske i A.3 / 9. rad. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette, vi lager en rettelse. mvh DROPS design

Lisa Lebrija 23.05.2020 - 21:04:

Hej Det ser ud til der er fejl i mønster A.2. 9. pind. Jeg er sikker på omslaget skal være før de 2 masker ret sammen. Så ligner mønsteret bedre som på billedet.

DROPS Design 27.05.2020 kl. 16:02:

Hej Lisa, hvis du kigger på det øverste hul i diagrammet (det hul som er alene), så kan du se på trøjen at indtagningen er lavet inden omslaget. Du er selvfølgelig velkommen til at flytte hullet :)

Inger Gimm 10.05.2020 - 17:28:

Kan jeg skifte DROPS Air ud med 100% bomuld ex. DROPS You # 8 i garngruppe C ? Eller blive trøjen for tung og mønstret kommer ikke til sin ret?

DROPS Design 11.05.2020 kl. 12:23:

Hei Inger. Du kan bytte til DROPS You # 8, jakken vil bli en del tyngre og gi en litt annen struktur på mønstret, men strikk en liten strikkeprøve å se om du liker hvordan mønstret holder seg. Bare husk å overhold strikkefastheten. God Fornøyelse!

Nicole 28.12.2019 - 22:13:

Ich habe eine Frage zu den Knopflöchern. Auf dem Bild sieht es so aus, als stricke man zuerst den Umschlag und das die 3.+4. m zusammen. Sonst ist das Knopfloch gar nicht mittig in der Blende. Im Text steht aber: zusammen stricken und dann den Umschlag. Was ist nun korrekt?

DROPS Design 02.01.2020 kl. 12:37:

Liebe Nicole, gerne können Sie die Knopflöcher stricken, wie Sie sie am besten haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Andrea 19.12.2019 - 16:10:

Please inform if there are written directions for the patterns--it's hard to use the little diagrams!!! I've been knitting over 50 years and so much prefer written ones!!! Also, is there a conversion from cm to in--I thought you usually did that bc I've used your patterns before?

DROPS Design 20.12.2019 kl. 08:31:

Dear Andrea, you will find all explanations to diagrams here - click on the drop menu under picture to edit language into English (US/in) to get the measurements in inches in the written pattern - convert into inches here. Happy knitting!

Nicole 19.10.2019 - 21:17:

Ich möchte diese Jacke gerne in Nepal stricken. Welche Nadelstärke sollte ich verwenden? Normalerweise kommen bei mir die Maschenproben immer hin. Was empfehlt ihr?

DROPS Design 21.10.2019 kl. 10:15:

Liebe Nicole, Nepal und Air gehören beide zur selben Garngruppe C, so können Sie hier mit Nepal anstatt Air stricken. Maschenprobe wie immer stricken, und dann Nadelstärke anpassen, wenn es nötig ist. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Célia 16.10.2019 - 02:50:

Lindo modelo! Vou tentar fazer

Pat76 19.06.2019 - 15:41:

Joli modèle que je suis en train de faire. J'ai fait les boutonnières en suivant vos indications (tricoter mailles 3 et 4 ensemble) et elles ne sont pas centrées comme sur la photo. J'ai continué comme une bonne élève et maintenant, arrivée à la seconde boutonnière le courage me manque pour tout recommencer. Je conseille à celles qui commencent ce modèle de tricoter ensemble les mailles 2 et 3 des boutonnières pour qu'elles soient centrées, c'est plus joli.

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