DROPS / 197 / 36

Willow Lane Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé. Worked back and forth in garter stitch and stripes. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern ab-090
Yarn group C
----------------------------------------------------------

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 128-136-142-154-163-178 cm = 50 3/8"-53 1/2"-55 3/4"-60 1/2"-64"-70"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/2"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color no 0517, grey
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color 0602, brown

----------------------------------------------------------
ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
15 stitches in width and 29 rows vertically in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9, length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32” for garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

DROPS BUFFELHORN (angular) NO 537: 2 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 5.20 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour 5.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix 5.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 41.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

STRIPES:
* Work 1 ridge brown, 1 ridge grey *, work from *-*.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side by knitting 2 stitches together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 92 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 4) = 20.5. In this example work alternately approx. every 19th and 20th stitch and every 20th and 21st stitch together and do not decrease over bands.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over = hole. Bind off decrease for buttonholes when piece measures 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19"-19 3/4"-20"-21" In addition decrease for a buttonhole on neck edge.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle in parts and sewn together when finished. The entire jacket is worked in garter stitch and stripes. Sleeves are worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Decrease for a buttonhole on band and 1 buttonhole on neck edge.

JACKET:
BACK PIECE:
Cast on 98-104-110-118-126-136 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Then work with 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé. Now work in garter stitch and STRIPES - read explanation above, until piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm = 15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/8”-16 1/2”-17”-17 1/4”. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! At the beginning of the next 2 rows bind off 2-2-3-3-4-4 stitches for armholes = 94-100-104-112-118-128 stitches. Continue back and forth in garter stitch and stripes. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4”-20 1/2”-21 1/4”-22”-22 3/4”-23 5/8”, bind off the middle 32-32-34-34-36-36 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off 1 stitch at the beginning of next row from neck = 30-33-34-38-40-45 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22”-22 3/4”-23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25 1/4”-26. Bind off, but make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. Bind off yarn over as stitch. Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 53-56-59-63-67-72 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in the side and 5 band stitches towards mid front) on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges. Then work with 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé. Now work in garter stitch and stripes, until piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm = 15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/8”-16 1/2”-17”-17 1/4”. On next row from wrong side bind off 2-2-3-3-4-4 stitches for armholes in the side = 51-54-56-60-63-68 stitches. Continue back and forth in garter stitch and stripes. Remember BUTTONHOLES – read explanation above, when piece measures 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19"-19 3/4"-20"-21". When piece measures 47-49-50-52-53-55 cm = 18 1/2”-19 1/4”-19 3/4”-20 1/2”-21”-21 5/8”, slip the first 13-13-14-14-15-15 stitches (from right side) on a stitch holder for neck. Then bind off stitches on every row from neck as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times = 30-33-34-38-40-45 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22”-22 3/4”-23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25 1/4”-26”. Bind off, but make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. Bind off yarn over as stitch.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 53-56-59-63-67-72 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in the side and 5 band stitches towards mid front) on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges. Then work with 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé. Now work in garter stitch and stripes, until piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm =15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/8”-16 1/2”-17”-17 1/4. On next row from right side bind off 2-2-3-3-4-4 stitches for armholes in the side = 51-54-56-60-63-68 stitches. Continue back and forth in garter stitch and stripes. When piece measures 47-49-50-52-53-55 cm = 18 1/2”-19 1/4”-19 3/4”-20 1/2”-21”-21 5/8”, slip the first 13-13-14-14-15-15 stitches (from wrong side) on a stitch holder for neck. Then bind off stitches on every row from neck as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times = 30-33-34-38-40-45 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22”-22 3/4”-23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25 1/4”-26”.. Bind off, but make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. Bind off yarn over as stitch.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 53-56-59-62-65-68 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 1 strand brown. Work in garter stitch and stripes back and forth. When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”, decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side - read DECREASE TIP-1! Decrease like this approx. every 4-3-3-3-3-2 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-3/4” 7-8-8-9-10-11 times in total = 39-40-43-44-45-46 stitches. Continue until sleeve measures 41-40-40-38-37-35 cm = 16 1/8”-15 3/4”-15 3/4”-15”-14 1/2”-13 3/4”. Work 2 ridges with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Bind off, but make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edge. Sew sleeves in body down to stitches bind off for armhole. Sew inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on body and inside cast-on edge on sleeves. Sew seam under sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat in the other side.

NECK EDGE:
Work neck edge back and forth on circular needle. Begin with circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and 1 strand in each color (= 2 strands) and pick up from right side 92-92-97-97-102-102 stitches (including stitches from stitch holders). Knit 1 row from wrong side. Continue by knitting 8 rows (= 4 ridges), AT THE SAME TIME on every row from right side decrease 4 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-2. When neck edge measures 1 cm = 3/8”, decrease for buttonholes at the beginning of row from right side as follows: Knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over (on next row knit yarn over = hole) = 76-76-81-81-86-86 stitches. Work 2 more ridges. Bind off - make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 14.12.2018
Correction: Bind off decrease for buttonholes when piece measures 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19"-19 3/4"-20"-21".

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 197-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Nele 20.02.2020 - 12:57:

Stricke die Jacke bereits zum zweiten Mal. Diesmal in eine anderen Farbkombi. Lässt sich sehr schön tragen und ist kuschelweich.

Hanneke 19.01.2020 - 14:41:

Is de kantsteek voor de voorpanden de eerste en laatste steek recht breien? Of anders?

DROPS Design 19.01.2020 kl. 18:02:

Dag Hanneke,

Bij de voorpanden zitten de kantsteken alleen in de zijkanten (dus waar de zijnaden komen) en niet bij midden voor. De kantsteken worden altijd in ribbelsteek gebreid

Nicole Desrousseaux 31.01.2019 - 12:09:

Ne pas oublier les BOUTONNIÈRES – voir explications ci-dessus, quand l'ouvrage mesure 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm. et :Ouvrir les boutonnières quand l'ouvrage mesure 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm Non! Cela n'a pas été corrigé. Quelle est la bonne information? Merci.

DROPS Design 31.01.2019 kl. 13:29:

Bonjour Mme Desrousseaux, effectivement, la hauteur des boutonnières n'avait pas été corrigée dans le texte, c'est bien celle de la correction qu'il faut prendre en compte, la bonne hauteur figure maintenant aux deux endroits du modèle, merci! Bon tricot!

Chantal Osorio 11.12.2018 - 22:29:

Comment fait on pour le devant droit pour faire une boutonnière à 48 cm de haut alors qu\'on a laissé les mailles en attente au 47° cm????? Je ne comprends pas. Merci de m\'éclairer. CO

DROPS Design 14.12.2018 kl. 14:51:

Bonjour Mme Osorio, merci pour votre retour, la hauteur des boutonnières a été corrigée. Bon tricot!

Rina Spoorenberg 18.11.2018 - 09:39:

Ik wil dit model graag breien van Alpaca. Hoeveel wol heb ik dan nodig en hoeveel steken zet ik op?

DROPS Design 19.11.2018 kl. 07:10:

Dag Rina

Als je deze in Alpaca breit, brei je met 2 draden (2 draden van garencategorie A) en heb je ongeveer de zelfde hoeveelheid in gewicht nodig.

Carol Derrick 16.11.2018 - 14:37:

I love your designs, but please can we have patterns in the more usual format...ie worked from the bottom up on two needles ?

DROPS Design 16.11.2018 kl. 15:31:

Dear Mrs Derrick, this pattern is worked bottom up, and entirely back and forth on needles - we try to have both kind of patterns so that every one can choose. You'll find here how to adapt a pattern from circular needle to straight needles. Happy knitting!

S Oosterink 05.08.2018 - 22:00:

Comfy and Cozy

Marie-Line 01.08.2018 - 12:08:

Ohlala je le veux celui-là

Monique 12.07.2018 - 14:05:

Schlicht und doch raffiniert. Die möchte ich haben.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 197-36

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.