DROPS / 195 / 11

Lemon Pie Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no u-855
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-450-500-550-600 g colour 79, lemon
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 72, light pearl grey

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch and pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch and pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.


DROPS METAL BUTTONS, Round (silver) NO 533: 7-7-7-8-8-8 items.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rounds.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
All increases are made from the right side!
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 108 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 31) = 3.2.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over approx. each 3rd stitch. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Do not increase over the bands.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on the row. Start from the right side with light pearl grey and knit 15-16-17-18-19-20 stitches past the stitch with the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 31-33-35-37-39-41 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit 46-49-52-55-58-61 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 61-65-69-73-77-81 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit 76-81-86-91-96-101 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl to end of row (the band is worked in garter stitch). Then work YOKE as described in text.
 
PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1, A.3, A.4, A.5 and A.6).
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP-1 (for bands):
On the rows with pattern and 2 colours, work the 5 band stitches in each side with the background colour in the pattern. 

KNITTING TIP-2:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a larger needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.
It is also important to maintain the knitting tension in height, or the yoke will be too short and the armholes too small!

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves):
Start 2 stitches before the stitch with the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 1 (= stitch with marker thread), knit 2 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = Work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left on the row, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then work the next 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes with approx. 8-8½-9-8-8½-8½ cm between each one.

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START PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck, yoke and body are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. After the neck you can work an elevation in back of neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. You can leave out the elevation if you wish; the neck is then the same front and back – read description in the text. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 108-112-116-120-124-132 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3.5 mm and light pearl grey. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the rib like this for 3 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above.
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 31-33-35-37-37-39 stitches evenly on row – read INCREASE TIP = 139-145-151-157-161-171 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Purl 1 row (bands worked in garter stitch).
You can now work an ELEVATION in back of neck – read description above, or go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP-1 and KNITTING TIP-2!
The first row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1A (= 2 stitches) until there are 6 stitches left on the row, work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern until A.1 has been completed. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work 2-2-2-2-4-8 rows stocking stitch with lemon and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side - AT THE SAME TIME on the first row increase 34-36-38-48-52-58 stitches evenly on row – remember INCREASE TIP = 173-181-189-205-213-229 stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.2A until there are 8 stitches left on the row (= 20-21-22-24-25-27 repeats of A.2A of 8 stitches), work A.2B (= 3 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on each row marked with an arrow increase evenly on row as described below:
On the row marked with arrow-1 increase 34-42-50-50-58-58 stitches evenly on row = 207-223-239-255-271-287 stitches (there is now room for 24-26-28-30-32-34 repeats of A.2A of 8 stitches).
On the row with arrow-2 increase 32-40-48-48-56-56 stitches evenly on row = 239-263-287-303-327-343 stitches (there is now room for 28-31-34-36-39-41 repeats of A.2A of 8 stitches and A.2B is now 5 stitches).
On the row with arrow-3 increase 24-36-36-44-44-52 stitches evenly on row = 263-299-323-347-371-395 stitches.
When A.2 has been completed, work the next row as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.3A until there are 6 stitches left on the row (= 21-24-26-28-30-32 repeats of A.3A of 12 stitches), work A.3B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
AT THE SAME TIME on the row marked with arrow-4 increase 20-16-16-20-20-20 stitches evenly on row = 283-315-339-367-391-415 stitches. Continue working until you just have the last row in A.3 left. Then work this last row as follows from the right side: Work 47-51-54-59-64-69 stitches as shown on the last row in A.3 (= front piece), place the next 52-60-66-70-72-74 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 85-93-99-109-119-129 stitches as shown in last row of A.3 (= back piece), place the next 52-60-66-70-72-74 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 47-51-54-59-64-69 stitches as shown in A.3 (= front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 195-211-227-247-271-295 stitches. In sizes S and M first work A.4 and A.5 as explained below and in size L work A.5 as explained below. In the remaining sizes (XL, XXL and XXXL) A4 and A.5 have already been worked (in A.3), therefore go directly to ALL SIZES in the 3 largest sizes.
The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side (diagrams read from left to right when working from wrong side):

SIZES S and M: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.4B (= 1 stitch), A.4A until there are 5 stitches left on the row (= 46-50 repeats of 4 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
When A.4 has been completed, work A.5 in the same way. AT THE SAME TIME on the row with arrow-5 in A.5A increase16 stitches evenly on row in both sizes = 211-227 stitches. When A.5 has been completed, continue as described under ALL SIZES!

SIZE L: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.5B (= 1 stitch), A.5A until there are 5 stitches left on the row (= 54 repeats of 4 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on the row marked with arrow-5 increase 16 stitches evenly on row = 243 stitches. When A.5 has been completed, continue working as described under ALL SIZES!

ALL SIZES:
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.6B (= 1 stitch), A.6A until there are 5 stitches left on the row (= 50-54-58-59-65-71 repeats of A.6A of 4 stitches). Continue this pattern.
AT THE SAME TIME on the row marked with arrow-5 in A.6A increase 16 stitches evenly on row (applies only to sizes XL, XXL and XXXL and only the first time A.6 is worked in height for these sizes) = 211-227-243-263-287-311 stitches on the row.
Continue A.6 until the piece measures approx. 31 cm from the division in all sizes, but adjust so that the next row is worked from the wrong side.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with lemon where you increase 53-57-61-65-69-77 stitches evenly on row – remember INCREASE TIP = 264-284-304-328-356-388 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib as follows from the right side (with lemon): 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm. Then loosely cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after each 8th stitch at the same time as you cast off (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches).
The jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 52-60-66-70-72-74 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-68-76-80-84-88 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 stitch in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve, i.e. insert the marker thread in the first stitch after the middle, count 29-33-37-39-41-43 stitches, insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch (= mid-stitch). There are now 29-33-37-39-41-43 stitches left on the round after the last marker thread. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards. The marker thread under the sleeve will be used when decreasing and the marker thread mid to of sleeve will be used to count to where the pattern starts.
READ THE REST OF THIS SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work the last row in A.3A so that A.3 finishes in the same way as on the body.
SIZES S and M: Work A.4A in the round (= 15-17 repeats of 4 stitches), but count out from the middle – mid-stitch in A.4A should match the mid-stitch mid top of sleeve. When A.4A has been completed work A.5A in the same way. After A.5A continue with A.6A as far as the rib.
SIZE L: Work A.5A in the round (= 19 repeats of 4 stitches), but count out from the middle – mid-stitch in A.5A should match the mid-stitch mid top of sleeve. After A.5A continue with A.6A as far as the rib.
SIZES XL, XXL and XXXL: Work A.6A in the round (= 20-21-22 repeats of 4 stitches), but count out from the middle – mid-stitch in A.6A should match the mid-stitch mid top of sleeve. Continue with A.6A as far as the rib.
DECREASING:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6-4-2½-2½-2-1½ cm a total of 7-10-13-14-15-16 times = 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches.
When the sleeve measures approx. 40-39-37-35-34-32 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke) knit 1 round with lemon where you increase 2-0-2-0-2-0 stitches evenly on round = 48-48-52-52-56-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after each 8th stitch at the same time as you cast off (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches).The sleeve measures approx. 45-44-42-40-39-37 cm from the division down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

= light pearl grey
= lemon
= off white
= increase row
= mid-stitch on sleeve





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 195-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (4)

Mia Merethe 30.09.2019 - 09:37:

Strikker denne i str s, men så lurer jeg litt på mønster diagrammet; er det så at i denne str ikke skal strikke den øverste delen av diagram A.3A?

DROPS Design 01.10.2019 kl. 15:18:

Hej Mia, ja det stemmer, du strikker kun det i rammen for størrelse S. God fornøjelse!

Tone 07.08.2019 - 21:14:

Hei. I introen står det at vi trenger 80 cm rundpinne str 4,5, mens i selve oppskriften finner jeg bare 80cm str.3,5. Eneste stedet jeg ser 4,5 er på settpinner/liten rundpinne på ermene. Når skal jeg bytte til 80 cm 4,5 og skal settpinner/liten rundpinne 3,5 brukes nederst på ermene? Annet i forhold til hvilke pinner når?

DROPS Design 09.08.2019 kl. 10:36:

Hej Tone, du bytter til pind 4,5 lige efter halskanten. Se her: .... Strikk 1 pinne rett fra retten der det økes 31-33-35-37-37-39 masker jevnt fordelt – les ØKETIPS = 139-145-151-157-161-171 masker. Bytt til rundpinne 4,5. .... God fornøjelse!

Annelie Saxvold 20.07.2019 - 14:18:

Stickar i baby palett som har en sträckning på 27 m stickor 3,5

DROPS Design 02.09.2019 kl. 11:00:

Hei Annelie. Ønsket du hjelpe med det du skrev og evnt hva? mvh Drops design

Anita Hoffgaard 12.10.2018 - 10:40:

Der er fejl i mønstret farvekoder. Der mangler farve forklaring.

DROPS Design 18.10.2018 kl. 15:28:

Hei Anita. fargekodene stemmer: 79 sitron, 01 naturhvit, 72 lys perlegrå - dette stemmer med både garnmengde og mønster. Hvor spesifikt er det du mener det er en feil? God fornøyelse.

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