Red Tulip by DROPS Design
Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted top down with rib displacement. Size: S - XXXL
Keywords:
assembly free, asymmetric, jumper, lace, long sleeves, raglan, rib-shifting, round neck, top down
DROPS 197-9
DROPS design: Pattern me-155
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-700-750-800-900-1000 g colour 11, red
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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:
KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for the garment.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.
DROPS design: Pattern me-155
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-700-750-800-900-1000 g colour 11, red
----------------------------------------------------------
ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:
KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for the garment.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
Diagram A.1b/A.3b measures approx. 10 cm in width.
INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 88 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 20) = 4.4.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 4th and 5th stitch. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.
INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Increase by making 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.
DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Worked top down on circular needle. Work first a yoke in the round on circular needle. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Continue in the round on circular needle until approx. 16 cm remain, then work front and back piece separately (= vent in the side). Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
YOKE:
Cast on 88-92-96-104-108-112 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. When piece measures 2 cm, increase 20-20-24-20-24-28 stitches evenly on next round - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 108-112-120-124-132-140 stitches.
Purl 1 round. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work as follows (round begins mid back):
Half back piece: Work A.1a (= 17 stitches), 2-2-4-4-6-8 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan).
Right sleeve: Work A.2 (= 7 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), 2-4-4-6-6-6 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), A.2 over the next 7 stitches
Front piece: Work 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), 2-2-4-4-6-8 stitches in stocking stitch, A.3a (= 17 stitches) (= mid front), A.1a over the next 17 stitches, 2-2-4-4-6-8 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan).
Left sleeve: Work A.2 over the next 7 stitches, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), 2-4-4-6-6-6 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), A.2 over the next 7 stitches
Half back piece: Work 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), 2-2-4-4-6-8 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with A.3a over the last 17 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work yarn overs twisted on each side of A.2 to avoid holes!
Continue pattern like this and increase for raglan, increase differently on front/back piece and sleeves (first increase as explained above), increase stitches on each side of A.2 as follows:
Front/back piece: Increase 1 stitch every other round 18-22-25-29-32-36 times in total (= 2 stitches increase on each front/back piece).
Sleeve: Increase 1 stitch every other round 20-23-26-27-28-30 times in total (= 2 stitches increase on each sleeve).
When A.1a and A.3a have been worked 1 time vertically, work A.1b (= 32 stitches) over A.1a and A.3b (= 32 stitches) over A.3a.
When all increases are done there are 320-352-384-408-432-464 stitches on row. Work until piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from cast-on edge. Now divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Half back piece: Work A.1b (= 32 stitches), work 20-24-29-33-38-44 stitches in stocking stitch.
Right sleeve: Slip the next 56-64-70-74-76-80 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve.
Front piece: Work 20-24-29-33-38-44 stitches in stocking stitch, A.3b (= 32 stitches) (= mid back), A.1b (= 32 stitches), 20-24-29-33-38-44 stitches in stocking stitch.
Left sleeve: Slip the next 56-64-70-74-76-80 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve.
Half back piece: Work 20-24-29-33-38-44 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with A.3b (= 32 stitches).
BODY:
= 224-240-264-280-304-328 stitches.
Work A.3b (= 32 stitches) as before, 17-21-27-31-37-43 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4 (= 14 stitches = mid under sleeve), 17-21-27-31-37-43 stitches in stocking stitch. A.1b and A.3b as before (= 64 stitches in total), 17-21-27-31-37-43 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4 over the next 14 stitches (= mid under sleeve), 17-21-27-31-37-43 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with A.1b (= 32 stitches) as before.
Continue pattern like this.
When piece measures 2 cm from where body was divided from sleeves, increase 1 stitch on each side of every A.4 (= 4 stitches increased) - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 2 cm 10 times in total = 264-280-304-320-344-368 stitches. When piece measures 22 cm from where body was divided from sleeves, divide front and back piece, to make a vent in each side (= approx. 16 cm).
Divide the piece in the middle of each A.4 (= 132-140-152-160-172-184 stitches on each front/back piece).
BACK PIECE:
Now work back and forth.
Continue with half pattern A.4 (= 7 stitches), stocking stitch, A.1b and A.3b as before until piece measures 36 cm from where body was divided from sleeves, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, for 2 cm (= 16 cm vent). Cast off by knitting. Piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm in total from shoulder.
FRONT PIECE:
Work as back piece.
SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 56-64-70-74-76-80 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve = 64-72-80-84-88-92 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve.
Continue with pattern A.2 (on each side of marker thread) and stocking stitch, but decrease A.2 as follows: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread – read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased) on every other round and increase 1 stitch on every other round by making a yarn over after first A.2 and before last A.2 (= 2 stitches increased), i.e. the stitches under sleeve are decreased and the stitches in stocking stitch are increased. Knit the increased stitches twisted on next round, then work them in stocking stitch. When sleeve measures 2 cm from where sleeve was divided for body, do not increase stitches on next round with increase/decrease, i.e. decrease 2 stitches.
Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-1½-1-1 cm 10-13-16-17-18-19 times in total = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches (when A.2 has been decreased in both sides, stitches are no longer increased). When sleeve measures 34-33-31-29-28-26 cm from where sleeve was divided from body, increase 1-2-0-1-2-0 stitches evenly on next round = 45-48-48-51-54-54 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib = knit 1/purl 2. When sleeve measures 39-38-36-34-33-31 cm from where sleeve was divided from body, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other sleeve the same way.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
Diagram A.1b/A.3b measures approx. 10 cm in width.
INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 88 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 20) = 4.4.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 4th and 5th stitch. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.
INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Increase by making 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.
DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Worked top down on circular needle. Work first a yoke in the round on circular needle. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Continue in the round on circular needle until approx. 16 cm remain, then work front and back piece separately (= vent in the side). Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
YOKE:
Cast on 88-92-96-104-108-112 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. When piece measures 2 cm, increase 20-20-24-20-24-28 stitches evenly on next round - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 108-112-120-124-132-140 stitches.
Purl 1 round. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work as follows (round begins mid back):
Half back piece: Work A.1a (= 17 stitches), 2-2-4-4-6-8 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan).
Right sleeve: Work A.2 (= 7 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), 2-4-4-6-6-6 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), A.2 over the next 7 stitches
Front piece: Work 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), 2-2-4-4-6-8 stitches in stocking stitch, A.3a (= 17 stitches) (= mid front), A.1a over the next 17 stitches, 2-2-4-4-6-8 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan).
Left sleeve: Work A.2 over the next 7 stitches, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), 2-4-4-6-6-6 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), A.2 over the next 7 stitches
Half back piece: Work 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), 2-2-4-4-6-8 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with A.3a over the last 17 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work yarn overs twisted on each side of A.2 to avoid holes!
Continue pattern like this and increase for raglan, increase differently on front/back piece and sleeves (first increase as explained above), increase stitches on each side of A.2 as follows:
Front/back piece: Increase 1 stitch every other round 18-22-25-29-32-36 times in total (= 2 stitches increase on each front/back piece).
Sleeve: Increase 1 stitch every other round 20-23-26-27-28-30 times in total (= 2 stitches increase on each sleeve).
When A.1a and A.3a have been worked 1 time vertically, work A.1b (= 32 stitches) over A.1a and A.3b (= 32 stitches) over A.3a.
When all increases are done there are 320-352-384-408-432-464 stitches on row. Work until piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from cast-on edge. Now divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Half back piece: Work A.1b (= 32 stitches), work 20-24-29-33-38-44 stitches in stocking stitch.
Right sleeve: Slip the next 56-64-70-74-76-80 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve.
Front piece: Work 20-24-29-33-38-44 stitches in stocking stitch, A.3b (= 32 stitches) (= mid back), A.1b (= 32 stitches), 20-24-29-33-38-44 stitches in stocking stitch.
Left sleeve: Slip the next 56-64-70-74-76-80 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve.
Half back piece: Work 20-24-29-33-38-44 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with A.3b (= 32 stitches).
BODY:
= 224-240-264-280-304-328 stitches.
Work A.3b (= 32 stitches) as before, 17-21-27-31-37-43 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4 (= 14 stitches = mid under sleeve), 17-21-27-31-37-43 stitches in stocking stitch. A.1b and A.3b as before (= 64 stitches in total), 17-21-27-31-37-43 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4 over the next 14 stitches (= mid under sleeve), 17-21-27-31-37-43 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with A.1b (= 32 stitches) as before.
Continue pattern like this.
When piece measures 2 cm from where body was divided from sleeves, increase 1 stitch on each side of every A.4 (= 4 stitches increased) - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 2 cm 10 times in total = 264-280-304-320-344-368 stitches. When piece measures 22 cm from where body was divided from sleeves, divide front and back piece, to make a vent in each side (= approx. 16 cm).
Divide the piece in the middle of each A.4 (= 132-140-152-160-172-184 stitches on each front/back piece).
BACK PIECE:
Now work back and forth.
Continue with half pattern A.4 (= 7 stitches), stocking stitch, A.1b and A.3b as before until piece measures 36 cm from where body was divided from sleeves, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, for 2 cm (= 16 cm vent). Cast off by knitting. Piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm in total from shoulder.
FRONT PIECE:
Work as back piece.
SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 56-64-70-74-76-80 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve = 64-72-80-84-88-92 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve.
Continue with pattern A.2 (on each side of marker thread) and stocking stitch, but decrease A.2 as follows: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread – read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased) on every other round and increase 1 stitch on every other round by making a yarn over after first A.2 and before last A.2 (= 2 stitches increased), i.e. the stitches under sleeve are decreased and the stitches in stocking stitch are increased. Knit the increased stitches twisted on next round, then work them in stocking stitch. When sleeve measures 2 cm from where sleeve was divided for body, do not increase stitches on next round with increase/decrease, i.e. decrease 2 stitches.
Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-1½-1-1 cm 10-13-16-17-18-19 times in total = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches (when A.2 has been decreased in both sides, stitches are no longer increased). When sleeve measures 34-33-31-29-28-26 cm from where sleeve was divided from body, increase 1-2-0-1-2-0 stitches evenly on next round = 45-48-48-51-54-54 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib = knit 1/purl 2. When sleeve measures 39-38-36-34-33-31 cm from where sleeve was divided from body, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other sleeve the same way.
Diagram
|
= knit |
|
= purl |
|
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round work 3 stitches in the yarn over as follows: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, then on next round work these stitches into the pattern (= 3 stitches increased) |
|
= slip 1 stitch on to right needle and slip it twisted back on the left needle and knit it and the next 3 stitches (= 4 stitches) twisted together |
|
= knit 4 together |
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 299 catalogues and 11096 patterns - 11096 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Hola. Sería útil saber cuantos puntos debemos obtener en el canesú después de tejer la primera línea de A.1a y A.3a (en la talla S me aumenta en 8 o sea, ahora tengo 116 puntos) Luego, cuando empiezan las repeticiones (18 para frente/espalda y 20 para mangas), que es lo que se repite exactamente?, esa primera línea del patrón A.1a y A.3a con los aumentos para el raglán? o repetimos la tercera línea de ambos patrones? Es que no me dan los números.
27.05.2023 - 16:42Bonsoir, je ne sais pas ce qui se passe mais on ne peut plus imprimer vos modèles. Pouvez-vous s'il vous plaît y remédier? Merci d'avance
06.06.2022 - 20:42DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Tigresse, nous ne rencontrons pas de problème particulier, vérifiez bien les paramètres de votre imprimante, vous pouvez également essayer de vider votre cache/les cookies, cela aide parfois. Bon tricot!
07.06.2022 kl. 10:30Hej igen Jeg er nået til dér hvor arbejdet skal deles i midt i A.4 (= 152 masker på forstykke/bagstykke) og kan ikke komme videre, hvordan strikke man "den halv runde afslutning" (halv måne)? Jeg håber I kan hjælpe. På forhånd tak for hjælp. Med venlig hilsen Lien Ly
14.05.2022 - 23:25DROPS Design answered:
Hei Lien Ly. Jo, nå har du delt arbeidet i sidene og du skal nå strikke halve A.4 (= 7 masker), glattstrikk som før og A.1b og A.3b som før til arbeidet måler 36 cm fra der bolen ble delt fra ermene, Du vil da få en "halvmåne" med de økningene som er i diagram A.1b og A.3b. mvh DROPS Design
16.05.2022 kl. 10:08Hej jeg strikker Red Tulip i størrelse L. når alle udtagninger er klaret er der 384 masker, men efter deling af arbejdet har jeg kun 244 masker til RYG&FORSTYKKE. i opskriften skal der være 264 masker og der står ingen steder at jeg skal lave udtagning til de 20 masker? og jeg håber I kan hjælpe. På forhånd tak. Med venlig hilsen Lien Ly
07.03.2022 - 13:37DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lien, jo du slår 10 masker op under hvert ærme :)
09.03.2022 kl. 11:02Why can't you put these patterns in straight needle's as not all of us and get on with these circular needles and as such we're loosing out on theses patterns
11.12.2021 - 16:18DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Godden, circular needles are very popular in Scandinavia reason why we use them a lot, if we are not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, this lesson might help you to adjust into straight needles, your DROPS store will be also able to help you even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!
13.12.2021 kl. 10:36Bonjour Sur la photo du modèle, le devant se termine par une pointe légèrement arrondie. Cela ne correspond pas du tout aux explications puisqu'on arrête toutes les mailles d'un coup. Cordialement Françoise Haquart
13.01.2021 - 14:11DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Haquart, cet arrondi va se former automatiquement à cause du point fantaisie tricoté au milieu devant/milieu dos. Bon tricot!
13.01.2021 kl. 15:37Hallo, heute habe ich mit der Anleitung begonnen, habe es bis zur 1. Runde nach der Passe geschafft, jetzt muss ich lesen, dass die Zunahmen nur alle 2 Runden gemacht erden. Was passiert in den Runden dazwischen? Grüße aus Burgas
04.09.2020 - 16:55DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Hohn, die Raglanzunahmen werden in jede 2. Runde gestrickt (und unterchiedlich am Vorder-Rückenteil als an den Ärmeln) - bei der Runde nach den Zunahmen stricken Sie wie zuvor - die Umschläge für den Raglan werden verschränkt gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
07.09.2020 kl. 08:02Ich habe versucht die Anleitung zu drucken, es kommen immer nur 2 Seiten aus dem Drucker mit der Fußzeile 2 von 2 Seiten. Der Beginn der Anleitung fehlt, was mache ich falsch?
13.10.2019 - 17:27DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Gisela, die ganze Anleitung sollte gedruckt werden; prüfen Sie mal die Druckereinstellungen damit alle Seiten gedruckt sind; versuchen Sie den Browser-Cache zu löschen und den Browser neu starten, und Sie können auch mal mit einem anderen Browser versuchen . Viel Spaß beim stricken!
14.10.2019 kl. 10:36We want to see videos for finally patterns
05.05.2019 - 00:58Bonjour une fois tricoter le motif n'est pas comme sur la photo,il y a un soucis avec le diagramme ,il ne fait pas de tulipe merci cdt
14.02.2019 - 09:19DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Martine, le diagramme correspond bien au motif sur la photo. Vérifiez bien votre diagramme et vos mailles, n'hésitez pas à demander conseil auprès de votre magasin en leur apportant ou en leur montrant une photo de votre ouvrage. Ce sera plus facile ainsi de vous aider. Bon tricot!
14.02.2019 kl. 11:51