DROPS / 197 / 4

Old Mill Pullover by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no u-860
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-700-750-800-900 g colour 77, light oak
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 39, dark old pink
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white

Or use:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour 08, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 35, dark heather
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch and pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch and pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for edges.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2).
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 99 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 29) = 3.4.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch (approx.). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

ELEVATION (in back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (mid back). With light oak, knit 16-17-18-19-20-21 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 48-51-54-57-60-63 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 64-68-72-76-80-84 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 80-85-90-95-100-105 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 96-102-108-114-120-126 stitches. Turn tighten the strand and knit to mid back. Then work YOKE as described in the text.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece are not tight. You can use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads as follows: Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the increased stitches in stocking stitch!

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 6 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches) 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves): 
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (= the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck, yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 99-102-108-114-117-123 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and light oak. Knit 1 round. Then work A.1 in the round until the neck measures 3 cm from the cast-on edge. Knit 1 round where you increase 29-34-36-38-35-37 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 128-136-144-152-152-160 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and knit 1 round.
You can now work an elevation in the back of the neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck is then the same front and back – work ELEVATION – read description above, or go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP! Work A.2 in the round (= 16-17-18-19-19-20 repeats of 8 stitches). AT THE SAME TIME on each round marked with an arrow in A.2 increase evenly on round as described below – read INCREASE TIP-1 and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
On the round marked with arrow-1 increase 24-32-32-32-40-40 stitches evenly on round = 152-168-176-184-192-200 stitches (there is now room for 19-21-22-23-24-25 repeats of 8 stitches).
On the round marked with arrow-2 increase 24-24-24-32-40-40 stitches evenly on round = 176-192-200-216-232-240 stitches (there is now room for 22-24-25-27-29-30 repeats of 8 stitches).
On the round marked with arrow-3 increase 24-24-24-32-32-32 stitches evenly on round = 200-216-224-248-264-272 stitches (there is now room for 25-27-28-31-33-34 repeats of 8 stitches).
On the round marked with arrow-4 increase 24-24-24-24-24-24 stitches evenly on round = 224-240-248-272-288-296 stitches (there is now room for 28-30-31-34-36-37 repeats of 8 stitches).
On the round marked with arrow-5 increase 22-18-18-22-18-10 stitches evenly on round = 246-258-266-294-306-306 stitches.
Work A.2 until it is finished. The piece now measures approx. 18-18-18-21-21-21 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches): Insert the first marker thread after the first 40-41-42-47-51-53 stitches (= ½ back piece), 2nd marker thread is inserted after the next 44-48-50-54-52-48 stitches (= sleeve), 3rd marker thread is inserted after the next 79-81-83-93-101-105 stitches (= front piece) and 4th marker thread is inserted after the next 44-48-50-54-52-48 stitches (= sleeve). There are 39-40-41-46-50-52 stitches left after the last marker thread (= ½ back piece). The marker threads will be used when increasing to raglan.
Continue in the round with stocking stitch and light oak. AT THE SAME TIME on the next round increase to RAGLAN on each side of the 4 marker threads – read description above = 8 stitches increased. Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 5-8-10-10-12-15 times = 286-322-346-374-402-426 stitches. Continue working without increasing until the piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. The next round is worked as follows: Work 45-49-52-57-63-68 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), place the next 54-64-70-74-76-78 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 89-97-103-113-125-135 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 54-64-70-74-76-78 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 44-48-51-56-62-67 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 194-210-226-246-274-298 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, i.e. in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeves and allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards. The marker threads will be used when increasing on each side of the body.
Continue in the round with stocking stitch and light oak. When the piece measures 4 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-2 = 4 stitches increased. Increase like this every 8 cm a total of 4 times in each side = 210-226-242-262-290-314 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 33 cm from the division in all sizes. Knit 1 round where you increase 33-35-37-41-46-49 stitches evenly on round = 243-261-279-303-336-363 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work A.1 in the round for 3 cm. Loosely cast off with knit. The jumper measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 54-64-70-74-76-78 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle or double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up with light oak 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 62-72-80-84-88-92 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve and allow the marker thread to follow your work onwards. The marker thread will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Start the round by the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 1 cm a total of 0-0-4-6-8-12 times, every 2nd round a total of 3-7-6-12-11-8 times and then every 4-3-2½-0-0-0 cm a total of 7-7-7-0-0-0 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 38-37-35-33-32-30 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 6-4-5-6-4-5 stitches evenly on round = 48-48-51-54-54-57 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work A.1 in the round (= 16-16-17-18-18-19 repeats of 3 stitches). Continue this pattern until the edge measures 6 cm. Loosely cast off with knit. The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-41-39-38-36 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 17.08.2018
On the round marked with arrow-3 increase 24-24-24-32-32-32 stitches evenly on round, make sure to increase in background colour so pattern is not disrupted = 200-216-224-248-264-272 stitches

Diagram

= knit with light oak
= purl with light oak
= knit with off white
= knit with dark old pink
= increase round


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 197-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Evelyn 09.01.2020 - 08:46:

Buenas. Estoy realizando este patrón y me gustaría saber si existe algún truco o técnica para que el dibujo coincida con el patrón en la unióm de las vueltas. Al tejer con agujas circulares no me coincide el dibujo y se ve horrible. Me pueden aconsejar algo para solucionar el problema? Gracias

Elisa 02.08.2019 - 10:54:

Wie kann ich diesen Pullover am besten umwandeln in einen männerpullover? Unten würde ich ihn gerade verlaufen lassen. Oder ist es bei diesem Modell nicht empfehlenswert? LG!

DROPS Design 08.08.2019 kl. 10:47:

Liebe Elisa, Hier lesen Sie, wie man eine Damengröße in eine Herrengröße umrechnen kann. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Tove 27.03.2019 - 14:21:

Bolen ble veldig vid ... selv om strikkefastheten stemmer :/ Jeg er ganske høy og tenkte at jeg måtte strikke genseren i Large , det var feil 🙈 Syns ellers at oppskriften er superfin og enkel å følge

Helene Blomkvist 08.02.2019 - 07:46:

Ska man verkligen öka när det är dags för resåren på nederdelen av tröjan?Känns som den blir mycket vid då ivanliga fall öka man ju efter man stickat resår.

DROPS Design 08.02.2019 kl. 16:21:

Hej, jo det ska ökas innan resåren eftersom resåren annars blir för snäv, då den drar ihop sig.

Anna 21.08.2018 - 12:33:

Zrobiłam, wyszedł nawet lepiej niż się spodziewałam. To mój pierwszy sweter robiony od góry i dziękuję za pomoc.

Karina 11.08.2018 - 11:28:

Er det riktig at det skal økes når det strikkes mønster - pil 3 på mønsteret?

DROPS Design 17.08.2018 kl. 10:46:

Hei Karina. Ja, det skal økes på omgangen med pil 3. Bare sørg for at du øker med bunnfargen slik at ikke mønsteret forskyves. Ellers strikkes det som anvist i diagrammet. God fornøyelse.

Sheila 04.07.2018 - 18:26:

Really like neckline and the yoke design

Sheila 04.07.2018 - 18:23:

Really like the neckline and the yolk design

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