DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.50€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Old Mill Pullover

Knitted jumper in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 197-4
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-860
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-700-750-800-900 g colour 77, light oak
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 39, dark old pink
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white

Or use:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour 08, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 35, dark heather
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch and pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch and pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for edges.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.50€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2).
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 99 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 29) = 3.4.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch (approx.). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

ELEVATION (in back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (mid back). With light oak, knit 16-17-18-19-20-21 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 48-51-54-57-60-63 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 64-68-72-76-80-84 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 80-85-90-95-100-105 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 96-102-108-114-120-126 stitches. Turn tighten the strand and knit to mid back. Then work YOKE as described in the text.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece are not tight. You can use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads as follows: Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the increased stitches in stocking stitch!

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 6 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches) 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves): 
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (= the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck, yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 99-102-108-114-117-123 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and light oak. Knit 1 round. Then work A.1 in the round until the neck measures 3 cm from the cast-on edge. Knit 1 round where you increase 29-34-36-38-35-37 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 128-136-144-152-152-160 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and knit 1 round.
You can now work an elevation in the back of the neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck is then the same front and back – work ELEVATION – read description above, or go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP! Work A.2 in the round (= 16-17-18-19-19-20 repeats of 8 stitches). AT THE SAME TIME on each round marked with an arrow in A.2 increase evenly on round as described below – read INCREASE TIP-1 and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
On the round marked with arrow-1 increase 24-32-32-32-40-40 stitches evenly on round = 152-168-176-184-192-200 stitches (there is now room for 19-21-22-23-24-25 repeats of 8 stitches).
On the round marked with arrow-2 increase 24-24-24-32-40-40 stitches evenly on round = 176-192-200-216-232-240 stitches (there is now room for 22-24-25-27-29-30 repeats of 8 stitches).
On the round marked with arrow-3 increase 24-24-24-32-32-32 stitches evenly on round = 200-216-224-248-264-272 stitches (there is now room for 25-27-28-31-33-34 repeats of 8 stitches).
On the round marked with arrow-4 increase 24-24-24-24-24-24 stitches evenly on round = 224-240-248-272-288-296 stitches (there is now room for 28-30-31-34-36-37 repeats of 8 stitches).
On the round marked with arrow-5 increase 22-18-18-22-18-10 stitches evenly on round = 246-258-266-294-306-306 stitches.
Work A.2 until it is finished. The piece now measures approx. 18-18-18-21-21-21 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches): Insert the first marker thread after the first 40-41-42-47-51-53 stitches (= ½ back piece), 2nd marker thread is inserted after the next 44-48-50-54-52-48 stitches (= sleeve), 3rd marker thread is inserted after the next 79-81-83-93-101-105 stitches (= front piece) and 4th marker thread is inserted after the next 44-48-50-54-52-48 stitches (= sleeve). There are 39-40-41-46-50-52 stitches left after the last marker thread (= ½ back piece). The marker threads will be used when increasing to raglan.
Continue in the round with stocking stitch and light oak. AT THE SAME TIME on the next round increase to RAGLAN on each side of the 4 marker threads – read description above = 8 stitches increased. Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 5-8-10-10-12-15 times = 286-322-346-374-402-426 stitches. Continue working without increasing until the piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. The next round is worked as follows: Work 45-49-52-57-63-68 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), place the next 54-64-70-74-76-78 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 89-97-103-113-125-135 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 54-64-70-74-76-78 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 44-48-51-56-62-67 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 194-210-226-246-274-298 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, i.e. in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeves and allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards. The marker threads will be used when increasing on each side of the body.
Continue in the round with stocking stitch and light oak. When the piece measures 4 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-2 = 4 stitches increased. Increase like this every 8 cm a total of 4 times in each side = 210-226-242-262-290-314 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 33 cm from the division in all sizes. Knit 1 round where you increase 33-35-37-41-46-49 stitches evenly on round = 243-261-279-303-336-363 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work A.1 in the round for 3 cm. Loosely cast off with knit. The jumper measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 54-64-70-74-76-78 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle or double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up with light oak 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 62-72-80-84-88-92 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve and allow the marker thread to follow your work onwards. The marker thread will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Start the round by the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 1 cm a total of 0-0-4-6-8-12 times, every 2nd round a total of 3-7-6-12-11-8 times and then every 4-3-2½-0-0-0 cm a total of 7-7-7-0-0-0 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 38-37-35-33-32-30 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 6-4-5-6-4-5 stitches evenly on round = 48-48-51-54-54-57 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work A.1 in the round (= 16-16-17-18-18-19 repeats of 3 stitches). Continue this pattern until the edge measures 6 cm. Loosely cast off with knit. The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-41-39-38-36 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.08.2018
On the round marked with arrow-3 increase 24-24-24-32-32-32 stitches evenly on round, make sure to increase in background colour so pattern is not disrupted = 200-216-224-248-264-272 stitches

Diagram

symbols = knit with light oak
symbols = purl with light oak
symbols = knit with off white
symbols = knit with dark old pink
symbols = increase round
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Paule wrote:

Je Je vous remercie par avance jene sais comment commencer mon 2 eme dessin ? tout de suite je passe à la fleche 2 mais alors que sont ces rangs entre fleche 1 et fleche2? Je suis completement perdue!!! Encore merci pour votre reponse

06.02.2024 - 17:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Paule, les diagrammes se lisent de bas en haut, tous les tours de droite à gauche. Les flèches dans le diagramme indiquent les tours où il faut augmenter à intervalles réguliers. Les motifs ne seront pas directement alignés comme dans le diagramme en raison des augmentations mais répétez les 8 mailles de A.2 tout le tour comme dans le diagramme. Bon tricot!

07.02.2024 - 08:10

country flag Rene Bracken wrote:

There are no measurements for the sizes.

27.11.2023 - 00:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bracken, you will find all finished measurements for each size in the chart - they are in cm, convert into inches here>/a>, and read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

27.11.2023 - 10:13

country flag Chritine wrote:

Comment faire un rajout de cotes ( 2 cm + haut) sur le début de mon modele 197/4 déjà terminé Merci

02.10.2023 - 21:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christine, vous pouvez utiliser cette technique au niveau du col pour reprendre les côtes et les rallonger à votre convenance. Bon tricot!

03.10.2023 - 07:57

country flag Annick wrote:

Pour le pull 197-4 le jacquard se commence après les augmentations A2 ? Taille M Merci d'avance pour l'info

22.06.2023 - 16:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Annick, le diagramme A.2 correspond au jacquard, à chacun des rangs avec une flèche dans A.2, vous allez augmenter à intervalles réguliers comme indiqué dans les explications pour votre taille, soit 32 mailles à la flèche-1 en taille M, puis 24 m à la flèche-2 et ainsi de suite ; dès que les augmentations sont faites, tricotez le tour suivant comme avant en répétant les 8 mailles du diagramme, les motifs ne vont pas se répéter les uns au-dessus des autres comme dans le diagramme, mais vont se répéter tout le tour comme sur la photo. Bon tricot!

22.06.2023 - 17:23

country flag Willeke Van Dolderen wrote:

Old Mill Pullover: als ik de verhoging voor de hals wil breien moet ik dan ook direct A1 breien met de averechte steken?

14.07.2022 - 16:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Willeke,

Nee, je breit eerst A.1 dan brei je de verhoging voor de hals in licht eiken in tricotsteek. Als je daarmee klaar bent begin je met de pas. Dus geen A.1 breien in de verkorte naalden voor de verhoging.

17.07.2022 - 11:36

country flag Doris wrote:

Warum sind hier Zunahmen für Raglan beschrieben? Ich dachte, es sei eine Rundpasse.

09.07.2021 - 19:43

country flag Doris wrote:

Warum sind hier Zunahmen für Raglan beschrieben? Ich dachte, es sei eine Rundpasse.

09.07.2021 - 19:37

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Doris, wenn das Diagram A.2 gestrickt wird, braucht man einige Zunahmen noch, dann wird es 5 bis 15 Mal in jede 2. Runde für die Passe (= Raglan) zugenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.07.2021 - 07:08

country flag Rini V Hak wrote:

Mijn boord krult helemaal naar boven.net boven het a1 patroon. Hoe komt dit en wat kan ik er aan doen?

05.12.2020 - 11:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Rini,

Als de boord te wijd is waardoor hij omkrult, zou je de boord met een dunnere naald kunnen breien. Je kunt de boord ook voorzichtig oppersen met een natte theedoek tussen het werk en het strijkijzer; heel voorzichtig deppen met het strijkijzer. Let er op dat je dit heel voorzichtig doet, anders kun je de textuur vernielen.

06.12.2020 - 13:47

country flag Pamela wrote:

De acuerdo al comentario sobre la coincidencia del patrón, se solucionó?

02.06.2020 - 00:06

country flag Doul wrote:

Je voudrais tricoter un pull avec des aiguilles normales à la place des aiguilles rondes, est-ce possible ?

06.04.2020 - 13:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Doul, vous trouverez ici quelques informations sur l'adaptation d'un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

09.04.2020 - 14:18