DROPS / 197 / 1

Valdres by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked bottom up with Nordic pattern and textured pattern in stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no u-861
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-650-700-750-850-850 g colour 77, light oak
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour 04, chocolate brown
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour 11, orange
50-50-50-100-100-100 g colour 65, denim blue

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
20 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with textured pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 260 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 44) = 5.9. In this example, work together approx. each 5th and 6th stitch.

KNITTING TIP-1:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working Nordic pattern, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece are not tight. You can use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

KNITTING TIP-2 (for yoke):
If the knitting tension is not right in height and you work more rows on 10 cm than described in the text, the yoke will be too short and the armholes too small. This can be adjusted for by working 1 extra row of stocking stitch regularly on the yoke.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Decrease to raglan on each side of each A.5 as follows:
Decrease 1 stitch after A.5 as follows: Slip the last stitch in A.5, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch before A.5 as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before A.5, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased). In other words you decrease 2 stitches by each A.5 and a total of 8 stitches on the round.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles. The pieces are placed together and the yoke is worked in the round.

BODY:
Cast on 260-288-316-344-376-400 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and light oak. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 5 cm. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit 1 round where you decrease 44-48-52-56-64-64 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE TIP = 216-240-264-288-312-336 stitches.
Knit 1 round as follows: Insert 1 marker in the first stitch, knit 107-119-131-143-155-167 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, knit to end of round. The markers mark the sides of the piece. Then work A.1 over all stitches (= 18-20-22-24-26-28 repeats of 12 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, insert 1 marker in the middle of the round (you will measure from this marker later). Then work A.2 over A.1- read KNITTING TIP-1. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.3 over A.2. When you have worked as far as the arrow in A.3 (see arrow for your size) work the next round in A.3 as follows:
Cast off 4 stitches, work the next 101-113-125-137-149-161 stitches as before, cast off the next 7 stitches, work the next 101-113-125-137-149-161 stitches as before, cast off the last 3 stitches. The piece measures approx. 32-29-32-32-31-30 cm from the marker (approx. 43-40-45-45-46-45 cm whole length). Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles; change to short circular needle when necessary. Cast on 48-52-52-56-56-60 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and light oak. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 5 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and knit 1 round where you decrease 8-10-8-10-8-10 stitches evenly on round = 40-42-44-46-48-50 stitches.

READ THE WHOLE SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
You work a pattern of approx. 8-8-5-5-4-4 cm, if you wish to adjust the length of the sleeve, do it now – see below. Then work the same pattern stripe as on the body (from the marker to the armhole = approx. 32-29-32-32-31-30 cm), i.e. the whole sleeve should measure approx. 45-42-42-42-40-39 cm. Work as follows:
Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). Work 1 round in stocking stitch, then work the next round as follows:
Work A.4a (= 2-3-4-5-0-1 stitches), A.4b (= 12 stitches) a total of 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in width, A.4c (= 2-3-4-5-0-1 stitches). Continue until A.4 has been worked 1 time in height – NOTE: if you would like a longer sleeve, repeat the 2 rows marked with a star to desired length before continuing with the next round in A.4. If you would like a shorter sleeve, just work the desired number of rounds of A.4, but work a minimum of 1 of the purled rounds.
– AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 10-9-9-10-12-12 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread (= 2 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 2-1½-1½-1½-1-1 cm a total of 16-21-20-19-24-23 times = 72-84-84-84-96-96 stitches. The stitches in A.4a and A.4c and the increased stitches are worked into pattern A.4b as you go. When A.4 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.2 (= 12 stitches) over all stitches – A.2 is worked over A.4b and is adjusted out to each side; the increased stitches are worked into the pattern as you go.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.3 (= 12 stitches) over A.2. When all the stitches under the sleeve are increased, work A.3 a total of 6-7-7-7-8-8 times in width. When you have worked as far as the arrow in A.3, work the next round as follows:
Cast off 4 stitches, work the next 65-77-77-77-89-89 stitches as before, cast off the last 3 stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 45-42-42-42-40-39 cm. Work 1 more sleeve in the same way.

YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where you cast off stitches for the armholes = 332-380-404-428-476-500 stitches. Start the round in the transition between right sleeve and back piece. Work as follows: * A.5 (= 2 stitches, raglan line), continue with A.3 as before over the next 97-109-121-133-145-157 stitches (= front/back piece), A.5 (= 2 stitches, raglan line), work pattern A.3 as before over the next 65-77-77-77-89-89 stitches (= sleeve) *, work from *-* a total of 2 times – read KNITTING TIP-2.
Continue this pattern and decrease to RAGLAN – read description above, every 2nd round a total of 27-31-32-33-37-39 times. When A.3 has been completed in height, work A.6 (= 12 stitches) over A.3.
After the last decrease to raglan there are 116-132-148-164-180-188 stitches on the round. Continue until A.6 has been completed. The yoke measures approx. 20-23-24-25-27-28 cm.
You can now work an elevation in the back of the neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck is then the same both front and back. Work elevation in back of neck or go straight to working neck if you do not want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (this marks the start of the round after the elevation has been worked). Continue with light oak and knit to mid back, insert 1 marker. Start from the right side and knit as far as 30-30-34-34-40-40 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 60-60-68-68-80-80 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 54-54-61-61-72-72 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 48-48-54-54-64-64 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 42-42-48-48-56-56 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 36-36-42-42-48-48 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 30-30-35-35-40-40 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 24-24-28-28-32-32 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit to mid back. Cut the strand. The round now starts at the marker, i.e. the transition between right sleeve and back piece.

NECK:
Continue with light oak and work the next round with decreases as follows: Knit * 40-46-54-58-66-70 stitches and decrease 0-6-12-13-19-22 stitches evenly over these stitches – remember DECREASE TIP, knit together the next 18-20-20-24-24-24 stitches 2 and 2 (= 9-10-10-12-12-12 stitches decreased) *, work from *-* a total of 2 times = 98-100-104-114-118-120 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work the next round as follows: * Knit 2, purl 2, knit 1, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), purl 2, knit 2, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8-0-4-4-8-0 stitches left, work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) over the remaining stitches = 116-120-124-136-140-144 stitches. The yarn overs are worked twisted in rib (i.e. knit 2 / purl 2) on the next round to avoid holes. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl when the rib measures 3 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 08.02.2019
Correction - NECK: Continue with light oak and work the next round with decreases as follows: Knit * 40-46-54-58-66-70 stitches and decrease 0-6-12-13-19-22 stitches evenly over these stitches – remember DECREASE TIP, knit together the next 18-20-20-24-24-24 stitches 2 and 2 (= 9-10-10-12-12-12 stitches decreased) *
Updated online: 12.06.2019
Correction - diagram A.4C size L-XL is updated
Updated online: 26.09.2019
SLEEVES: (size M = 7 times) When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.3 (= 12 stitches) over A.2. When all the stitches under the sleeve are increased, work A.3 a total of 6-7-7-7-8-8 times in width.

Diagram

= purl with light oak
= knit with light oak
= knit with chocolate brown
= knit with orange
= knit with denim blue





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 197-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (143)

Elisabeth Neubeck 23.02.2020 - 19:47:

Det står at beskrivelse av størrelsene står nederst i oppskriften, men jeg finner ingen??

Grace Day 13.02.2020 - 15:40:

Hello, I noticed that the "yarn replacement" tool tells you the yarn, but does guide or tells you about the colors. How can I replace the yarn, but also know how to choose the right colors that match the picture?

DROPS Design 14.02.2020 kl. 08:02:

Dear Mrs Day, for any assistance choosing the colours please contact your DROPS store - even per mail or telephone - they will find you the best colours matching the shades you'd like. Happy knitting!

Siri Saltnes 09.02.2020 - 21:04:

Jeg har kjøpt garnpakke til Valdresgenseren, men nå finner jeg ikke størrelsesberegneren, altså vidde og lengde på plagget i de ulike størrelsene.

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 07:12:

Hei Siri, Du finner en skisse på bunnen av oppskriften med alle mål for de forskjellige størrelsene. God fornøyelse!

Doris Inskeep 19.01.2020 - 23:37:

In the pattern Karisma for the yoke. When u are decreasing do you decrease the sleeves as well as the front and back or just on the front and back?

DROPS Design 20.01.2020 kl. 02:59:

Dear Doris, when you are shaping the raglan, you should decrease on both side of every A.5 pattern - toward the body as well as toward the sleeves = 8 stitches decreased on the round. Happy Knitting!

Claire Cummins 19.01.2020 - 20:43:

I cant find the A5 section of chart to join the sleeves to the body to commence the yolk. Am I just being dim lol

DROPS Design 20.01.2020 kl. 03:07:

Dear Claire, the diagram for the A.5 pattern is right next to the diagrams of A.3, it is basically a column of 2 stitches knitted with stocking stitch. Happy Knitting!

Tamsin 13.01.2020 - 00:19:

Yoke: to start between left sleeve and back piece: instructions are for knitting over front/back before top of sleeve so this doesn’t work. Decreases on yoke: I used the charts as instructed for A6 for size S. The chart finishes a row before the 27th decrease. I’ll either knit an extra row or decrease on the last row of pattern which should work ok but thought you should know! Otherwise it all seems to have worked but glad I just spotted the changes to neck.

Andréa 08.01.2020 - 21:31:

Bonjour, Très joli modèle , J'ai tricoté les dos et devant , pas de problème particulier . Maintenant les manches et les augmentations en cours de jacquard et ça se complique . Ave vous une astuce pour reprendre le diagramme sans se perdre dans le motif . Merci beaucoup

Claire 31.12.2019 - 13:27:

Bonjour Je fais à taille L j ai tricoté A3 jusqu a la flècheL puis je fais les diminutions et tricote les125 mailles en quel point? Merci A3

DROPS Design 31.12.2019 kl. 17:23:

Bonjour Claire! Vous faites 125 mailles suivantes selon le diagramme A.3. Bon tricot!

Gisèle Fleury 10.12.2019 - 13:12:

Bonjour, j'ai commencé ce modèle en taille L et m'aperçois que les bandes couleur chêne points reliefs font gaufrées par rapport au point jacquard. Dois-je prendre une aiguille plus grosse pour le jacquard qui paraît plus serré ? Merci.

DROPS Design 10.12.2019 kl. 13:28:

Bonjour Mme Fleury, vérifiez bien votre tension; pour que les mesures finales soient les mêmes que celles du schéma, vous devez avoir 20 m x 26 rangs en jersey et jacquard et 20 mailles x 28 rangs en point texturé = 10 x 10 cm. Adaptez la taille des aiguilles si besoin - plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

Jorunn Kløve 21.11.2019 - 14:48:

Jeg strikker str M

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Valdres

Ahmu, Finland

Valdres

Magda, Poland

Valdres

Beata, United Kingdom

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