DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Valdres

Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked bottom up with Nordic pattern and textured pattern in stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 197-1
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-861
Yarn group B
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-650-700-750-850-850 g colour 77, light oak
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour 04, chocolate brown
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour 11, orange
50-50-50-100-100-100 g colour 65, denim blue

-------------------------------------------------------
ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
20 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with textured pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 260 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 44) = 5.9. In this example, work together approx. each 5th and 6th stitch.

KNITTING TIP-1:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working Nordic pattern, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece are not tight. You can use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

KNITTING TIP-2 (for yoke):
If the knitting tension is not right in height and you work more rows on 10 cm than described in the text, the yoke will be too short and the armholes too small. This can be adjusted for by working 1 extra row of stocking stitch regularly on the yoke.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Decrease to raglan on each side of each A.5 as follows:
Decrease 1 stitch after A.5 as follows: Slip the last stitch in A.5, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch before A.5 as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before A.5, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased). In other words you decrease 2 stitches by each A.5 and a total of 8 stitches on the round.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles. The pieces are placed together and the yoke is worked in the round.

BODY:
Cast on 260-288-316-344-376-400 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and light oak. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 5 cm. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit 1 round where you decrease 44-48-52-56-64-64 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE TIP = 216-240-264-288-312-336 stitches.
Knit 1 round as follows: Insert 1 marker in the first stitch, knit 107-119-131-143-155-167 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, knit to end of round. The markers mark the sides of the piece. Then work A.1 over all stitches (= 18-20-22-24-26-28 repeats of 12 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, insert 1 marker in the middle of the round (you will measure from this marker later). Then work A.2 over A.1- read KNITTING TIP-1. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.3 over A.2. When you have worked as far as the arrow in A.3 (see arrow for your size) work the next round in A.3 as follows:
Cast off 4 stitches, work the next 101-113-125-137-149-161 stitches as before, cast off the next 7 stitches, work the next 101-113-125-137-149-161 stitches as before, cast off the last 3 stitches. The piece measures approx. 32-29-32-32-31-30 cm from the marker (approx. 43-40-45-45-46-45 cm whole length). Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles; change to short circular needle when necessary. Cast on 48-52-52-56-56-60 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and light oak. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 5 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and knit 1 round where you decrease 8-10-8-10-8-10 stitches evenly on round = 40-42-44-46-48-50 stitches.

READ THE WHOLE SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
You work a pattern of approx. 8-8-5-5-4-4 cm, if you wish to adjust the length of the sleeve, do it now – see below. Then work the same pattern stripe as on the body (from the marker to the armhole = approx. 32-29-32-32-31-30 cm), i.e. the whole sleeve should measure approx. 45-42-42-42-40-39 cm. Work as follows:
Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). Work 1 round in stocking stitch, then work the next round as follows:
Work A.4a (= 2-3-4-5-0-1 stitches), A.4b (= 12 stitches) a total of 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in width, A.4c (= 2-3-4-5-0-1 stitches). Continue until A.4 has been worked 1 time in height – NOTE: if you would like a longer sleeve, repeat the 2 rows marked with a star to desired length before continuing with the next round in A.4. If you would like a shorter sleeve, just work the desired number of rounds of A.4, but work a minimum of 1 of the purled rounds.
– AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 10-9-9-10-12-12 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread (= 2 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 2-1½-1½-1½-1-1 cm a total of 16-21-20-19-24-23 times = 72-84-84-84-96-96 stitches. The stitches in A.4a and A.4c and the increased stitches are worked into pattern A.4b as you go. When A.4 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.2 (= 12 stitches) over all stitches – A.2 is worked over A.4b and is adjusted out to each side; the increased stitches are worked into the pattern as you go.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.3 (= 12 stitches) over A.2. When all the stitches under the sleeve are increased, work A.3 a total of 6-7-7-7-8-8 times in width. When you have worked as far as the arrow in A.3, work the next round as follows:
Cast off 4 stitches, work the next 65-77-77-77-89-89 stitches as before, cast off the last 3 stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 45-42-42-42-40-39 cm. Work 1 more sleeve in the same way.

YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where you cast off stitches for the armholes = 332-380-404-428-476-500 stitches. Start the round in the transition between right sleeve and back piece. Work as follows: * A.5 (= 2 stitches, raglan line), continue with A.3 as before over the next 97-109-121-133-145-157 stitches (= front/back piece), A.5 (= 2 stitches, raglan line), work pattern A.3 as before over the next 65-77-77-77-89-89 stitches (= sleeve) *, work from *-* a total of 2 times – read KNITTING TIP-2.
Continue this pattern and decrease to RAGLAN – read description above, every 2nd round a total of 27-31-32-33-37-39 times. When A.3 has been completed in height, work A.6 (= 12 stitches) over A.3.
After the last decrease to raglan there are 116-132-148-164-180-188 stitches on the round. Continue until A.6 has been completed. The yoke measures approx. 20-23-24-25-27-28 cm.
You can now work an elevation in the back of the neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck is then the same both front and back. Work elevation in back of neck or go straight to working neck if you do not want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (this marks the start of the round after the elevation has been worked). Continue with light oak and knit to mid back, insert 1 marker. Start from the right side and knit as far as 30-30-34-34-40-40 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 60-60-68-68-80-80 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 54-54-61-61-72-72 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 48-48-54-54-64-64 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 42-42-48-48-56-56 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 36-36-42-42-48-48 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 30-30-35-35-40-40 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 24-24-28-28-32-32 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit to mid back. Cut the strand. The round now starts at the marker, i.e. the transition between right sleeve and back piece.

NECK:
Continue with light oak and work the next round with decreases as follows: Knit * 40-46-54-58-66-70 stitches and decrease 0-6-12-13-19-22 stitches evenly over these stitches – remember DECREASE TIP, knit together the next 18-20-20-24-24-24 stitches 2 and 2 (= 9-10-10-12-12-12 stitches decreased) *, work from *-* a total of 2 times = 98-100-104-114-118-120 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work the next round as follows: * Knit 2, purl 2, knit 1, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), purl 2, knit 2, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8-0-4-4-8-0 stitches left, work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) over the remaining stitches = 116-120-124-136-140-144 stitches. The yarn overs are worked twisted in rib (i.e. knit 2 / purl 2) on the next round to avoid holes. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl when the rib measures 3 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 08.02.2019
Correction - NECK: Continue with light oak and work the next round with decreases as follows: Knit * 40-46-54-58-66-70 stitches and decrease 0-6-12-13-19-22 stitches evenly over these stitches – remember DECREASE TIP, knit together the next 18-20-20-24-24-24 stitches 2 and 2 (= 9-10-10-12-12-12 stitches decreased) *
Updated online: 12.06.2019
Correction - diagram A.4C size L-XL is updated
Updated online: 26.09.2019
SLEEVES: (size M = 7 times) When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.3 (= 12 stitches) over A.2. When all the stitches under the sleeve are increased, work A.3 a total of 6-7-7-7-8-8 times in width.

Diagram

symbols = purl with light oak
symbols = knit with light oak
symbols = knit with chocolate brown
symbols = knit with orange
symbols = knit with denim blue
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Valdres

Astrid, Sweden

Valdres

Johanna, Estonia

Valdres

@bee.knittingoutdoors, Austria

Valdres

vanderls, Canada

Valdres

MegQuinn, United States

197-1 Valdres

Merethe, Denmark

Valdres

Antje, Germany

Valdres

Barbara, Germany

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 197-1

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (202)

country flag Mona Ekra wrote:

Hvor står brystmål etter størrelse ? Klarer ikke tyde det utfra modellen .

13.03.2024 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mona, Du finner en målskisse på bunnen av oppskriften, med alle mål til de forskjellige størrelsene. God fornøyelse!

14.03.2024 - 12:32

country flag Momo wrote:

Hello, I am confused about the sleeve length. Why are the sleeves shorter in the large sizes than in the small sizes?

08.03.2024 - 09:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Momo, the sleeves are shorter in the larger sizes because the shoulders are larger. See also measurement chart. Happy knitting!

08.03.2024 - 13:34

country flag Nora wrote:

Jeg strikker Valdres str S. har begynt på 1 erme nå men skjønner ikke hvordan jeg skal strikke er A4, a, b og c?

26.02.2024 - 13:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Nora. Det står i texten vilken del av A4 du ska sticka och hur många gånger. Står det kun A.4 så är det alla delar (a,b,c). Mvh DROPS Design

27.02.2024 - 14:08

country flag Leticia wrote:

Hi, where can i see the size guide or even just the size the model is wearing? thanks in advance, also, thanks for all the patterns you are sharing :)

14.01.2024 - 06:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Leticia, our model is wearing an M size. You can see the list of sizes at the top of the pages, in the materials section. The measurements in cm for each size are indicated in the size charts; you can read more on the size charts here: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=24&cid=19. Happy knitting!

14.01.2024 - 13:17

country flag Helle Krause wrote:

Kan ikke finde A.5 er det det der hedder A .4 ved skitsen af hele trøjen?

21.12.2023 - 13:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helle, A.5 består af 2 masker, du finder diagrammet til højre for A.3 :)

21.12.2023 - 15:50

country flag Lola wrote:

Hola! En la parte del canesú pone que hay que hacer las disminuciones cada segunda vuelta un total de 32 veces (talla L). No lo entiendo. Por los ejemplos de otros jerséis entiendo que hay que trabajar las disminuciones hasta completar A6 y no dejar de hacerlas una vez hechas 64 vueltas (el doble de las 32) Puede ser un error del patrón? Gracias!

11.11.2023 - 02:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Lola, en algunos patrones los diagramas tienen también aumentos o disminuciones que se aplican al raglán. En este caso, se trata simplemente de un patrón de colores que es independiente a las disminuciones del canesú. Las disminuciones son para ajustar la diferencia entre las medidas en la parte superior y la parte inferior del canesú. Una vez hayas alcanzado el número de puntos necesario para las medidas deseadas en el ancho, continúas con el patrón de colores hasta terminarlo, tal y como se indica en el patrón, pero sin disminuir más puntos.

12.11.2023 - 23:20

country flag Borghild wrote:

Hei:) Jeg lurer bare på om det er en unisex modell? I tilfelle, hvilken størrelse strikket jeg til mann som bruker M/L til vanlig

23.10.2023 - 15:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Borghild, Du finner en målskisse på bunnen av oppskriften som du kan sammenligne med hans brystvidde. God fornøyelse!

24.10.2023 - 07:24

country flag Birgitta Mörnefält wrote:

Stickor 3 och 28m/st = 10 cm Betyder det stickor 4 och 20m/st Kan jag följa mönster 197-1?

23.09.2023 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgitta, lav en strikkeprøve så du er sikker på at få 20 masker på 10 cm, da vil din størrelse stemme med målene i måleskitsen :)

26.09.2023 - 15:40

country flag Karolina wrote:

Chyba już sama to wywnioskowałam z poprzednich odpowiedzi ;) ale dla upewnienia się- chodzi mi o schemat a.4

21.07.2023 - 10:08

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Karolino, robisz narzut za 2 oczkami schematu A.4a (za markerem na początku okrążenia) i kolejny narzut będzie 2 oczka przed markerem, czyli po przerobieniu 1 oczka w schemacie A.4c. Dodane oczka (narzuty) przerabiasz wg schematu A.4b w miarę postępu robótki. Pozdrawiam!

21.07.2023 - 10:18

country flag Karolina wrote:

Jeśli w schemacie a.2a mam 3 oczka (prawe,lewe,prawe) a w 2b mam kolejne 3 oczka prawe; robie tu narzut w 2a, oczko dodaję po przerobieniu 2 oczek za markerem, czyli mam teraz oczy prawe, lewe i 2 prawe, to później w sekcji 2B przerabiam kolejne 3 oczka na prawo czy tylko 2 żeby skos był wszędzie co 4 oczka prawe?

21.07.2023 - 09:16

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Karolino, piszesz o schemacie A.2 czy A.4?

21.07.2023 - 09:53