Strawberry Delight by DROPS Design

Crocheted poncho-jumper with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked top down in DROPS Belle.

DROPS Design: Pattern no vs-043
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S/M – L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 11, old pink
350-400-400-450-450-500 g colour 03, light beige

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 treble crochets and 9 rows on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each round of treble crochets, replace the first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. The round ends with 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch at the beginning of the round. Diagram A.1 shows how each round starts and diagram A.4 shows how each round ends; the slip stitch is worked in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round, the 3 chain stitches replace alternately the first and last treble crochet on the round.

STRIPES:
ROUND 1: Work with old pink – read COLOUR CHANGE!
ROUND 2: Work with light beige
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 a total of 3 times.
ROUNDS 7 and 8: Work with old pink
ROUNDS 9 and 10: Work with light beige
Then work as follows:
Work 3 rounds with old pink, 3 rounds with light beige.
Work 4 rounds with old pink, 4 rounds with light beige. Continue like this, i.e. work 1 more round of each colour to finished length.
When the gap between each stripe gets too long, cut and fasten the strand.

COLOUR CHANGE:
To get a neat transition when changing colours, work the last slip stitch on the round with the new colour as follows: Insert the hook in the last chain stitch from the beginning of the round, pick up the new strand, make a yarn over with the new colour and pull it through the loop on the hook.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Adjust so that decreases are worked on either round 1 or round 3 in A.2a. Decrease 1 treble crochet group by skipping the first chain stitch in the first repeat of A.2a. The next round is worked as before, but now there is no treble crochet group worked between the 2 treble crochet groups where you skipped a chain stitch (= 1 treble crochet group decreased). The next time you decrease, skip the last chain stitch in the last repeat of A.2a. The next round is worked as before, but there is no treble crochet group worked between the 2 treble crochet groups where you skipped a chain stitch (= 1 treble crochet group decreased). Decrease like this upwards, i.e. decrease alternately at the beginning and end of round.
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PONCHO JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round, top down. You increase mid front and back and in the middle of each sleeve. The piece is divided for the sleeves and body; the body is continued in the round with increases mid back and front as before. The sleeves are worked in the round to finish.

YOKE:
Work 107-107-125-125 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and old pink and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
ROUND 1(worked with old pink): Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet) in the first chain stitch – read CROCHET INFO, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 1-1-5-5 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round = 92-92-108-108 treble crochets. 

ROUND 2 (worked with old pink – equivalent to the first round in A.1 to A.5 marked with a star): (the round starts in the transition between the sleeve and the back piece) Work * 1 treble crochet in each of the next 38-38-46-46 treble crochets (= back/front piece), work 2 treble crochets in each of the next 8 treble crochets (= 8 treble crochets increased) *, work from *-* 1 more time = 108-108-124-124 treble crochets.

Continue by working STRIPES – see description above, as follows:
ROUND 3 (equivalent to round 1 in the stripes and round 2 in A.1 to A.5): Work A.1 over the first 4 treble crochets, A.2 over the next 12 treble crochets (= 3 times in width), work A.3 over the next 3 treble crochets (= tip mid back), * A.2 over the next 24-24-28-28 treble crochets (= 6-6-7-7 times in width), A.5 over the next 3 treble crochets (= mid top of shoulder) *, A.2 over the next 24-24-28-28 treble crochets (= 6-6-7-7 times in width), A.3 over the next 3 treble crochets (= tip mid front), work from *-* 1 more time, work A.2 over the next 4-4-8-8 treble crochets and finish with A.4 over the last 4 treble crochets = 32-32-36-36 chain spaces with 1 double crochet between each.

Continue the pattern like this; when A.1 to A.5 have been worked 1 time in height (i.e a total of 5 rounds have been worked) there is 44-44-48-48 treble crochets on last round.Repeat A.1a to A.5a. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Increase 1 treble crochet group in each A.3a on each round. Increase 1 treble crochet group every 3rd round in each A.5a. For every 3rd round worked you increase a total of 8 treble crochet groups and the increased stitches are worked into A.2a as you go. Continue like this until you have worked 20-23-26-29 rounds of treble crochet groups in A.1a to A.5a in height. There are now 84-92-104-112 treble crochet groups/chain stitches on the round. The piece measures approx. 24-28-31-34 cm. The piece is now divided for the body and sleeves.

BODY:
Cut the strand. Count 14-16-18-20 chain stitches from the middle, seen from the right side, from mid back and out to the side/shoulder (without the chain stitch mid back), work 1 slip stitch around the 14th-16th-18th-20th chain stitch, work round 2 of A.1a (= 3 chain stitches, work 2 treble crochets around the same chain stitch), work 6 chain stitches (= under the sleeve), skip 13-13-15-15 chain stitches and 14-14-16-16 treble crochet groups (= sleeve), around the next chain stitch work A.2a onwards as before, work A.2a and A.3a as before until you have worked around 14-16-18-20 chain stitches past the middle chain stitch in front, work 6 chain stitches (= under the sleeve), skip 13-13-15-15 chain stitches and 14-14-16-16 treble crochet groups (= sleeve), work A.2a and A.3a as before until there is 1 chain stitch left, finish with round 2 of A.4a around the same space as the slip stitch at the beginning of the round = a total of 60-68-76-84 treble crochet groups (including the treble crochet group mid front and mid back) and 6 chain stitches under each sleeve. The next round is worked as follows: Work A.1a around the 6 chain stitches under the sleeve, continue with A.2a and A.3a as before as far as the 6 chain stitches under the other sleeve, work A.2a around the 6 chain stitches under the sleeve 1 time, then work pattern as before to end of round. In other words continue to increase mid front and back with A.3a; the rounds start with A.1a and finish with A.4a and the remaining stitches are worked as A.2a. Continue like this until the piece measures approx. 89-91-93-95 cm, measured from the shoulder and down to the tip in front of piece. Cut and fasten the strands.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked in the round with light beige.
Start in the first chain stitch which was skipped when the sleeve and body were divided, work 1 slip stitch around this chain stitch, work round 2 of A.1a (= 3 chain stitches, work 2 treble crochets around the same chain stitch), work A.2a in each of the 12-12-14-14 chain stitches/13-13-15-15 treble crochet groups which were skipped, work 6 chain stitches mid under sleeve and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. Continue with A.1a and A.2a on the next round, then finish with one repeat of A.2a and A.4a around the 6 chain stitches worked under the sleeve = 14-14-16-16 repeats of A.1a/A.2a/A.4a. Continue this pattern. When the piece measures 3 cm decrease 1 treble crochet group under the sleeve after A.1/ before A.4 – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 3-3-2-2 cm a total of 3 times = 11-11-13-13 treble crochet groups. Cut and fasten the strand when the sleeve measures 20-18-14-11 cm from the division of body/sleeve. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 07.03.2022
ROUND 3: ... work A.2 over the next 4-4-8-8 treble crochets and finish with A.4 over the last 4 treble crochets = 32-32-36-36 chain spaces with 1 double crochet between each.

Diagram

symbols = double crochet
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = treble crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
symbols = slip stitch
symbols = chain stitch
symbols = first round explained in text
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 190-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (41)

country flag Eileen Niclasen wrote:

Jeg ville også gerne vide om man kan få opskriften med ord istedent for diagram?

25.04.2022 - 23:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Eileen, det har vi desværre ikke, men længere nede i spørgsmål og svar har vi beskrevet de først 3 rækker, har du først hæklet dem, så er jeg sikker på at du kan fortsætte :)

26.04.2022 kl. 13:21

country flag Vivi Kaae wrote:

Findes opskriften med ord i stedet for diagram, jeg er desværre en af dem der ikke forstår diagram og har brug for en ordforklaring? Mvh Vivi

25.04.2022 - 21:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Vivi, det har vi desværre ikke, men længere nede i spørgsmål og svar har vi beskrevet de først 3 rækker, har du først hæklet dem, så er jeg sikker på at du kan fortsætte :)

26.04.2022 kl. 13:21

country flag Claudia Gualandi wrote:

Anch'io sono bloccata al giro 3 come molte altre hanno già scritto. È inutile che ripetiate quanto già è scritto nelle spiegazioni: non si capisce!!! Per cortesia spiegate in modo chiaro che cosa di deve fare. Non si capisce proprio!!!

10.04.2022 - 10:47

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Claudia, per il giro 3 deve ripetere la sequenza dei diagrammi come indicato nelle spiegazioni. Se dovesse aver bisogno di un'assistenza più personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

11.04.2022 kl. 21:38

country flag Eva wrote:

Jeg kan på ingen måde få det til at give mening at jeg skal have 32 luftmaskebuer når jeg er færdig med omg 3. Jeg ender med 28 buer - Hvor går den galt, for syntes jeg har talt efter i den skrevne opskrift og lander på samme antal?

04.04.2022 - 00:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Eva. Har du telt at det i diagram A.3 og A.5 er 2 luftmasker (3 staver+1 luftmaske + 3 staver + 1 luftmaske)? Lett å overse (jeg gjorde det først). Da får du 32 luftmaskebuer :) mvh DROPS Design

04.04.2022 kl. 13:18

country flag Maria wrote:

På slutet på varv 3 står det 32-32-36-36 stolpgrupper med 1 luftmaska mellan varje, men jag undrar om det inte ska stå 32-32-36-36 luftmaskbågar med 1 fast maska mellan. Hälsningar Maria

26.02.2022 - 19:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maria, jeg forstår dit spørgsmål og sender det videre til design. Vi kommer tilbage så hurtigt som muligt.

02.03.2022 kl. 11:37

country flag Birthe Westergaard wrote:

Jeg er desværre der hvor jeg overhovedet ikke forstår, hvordan jeg skal læse diagrammet - lad os starte med A1-A5. Kan i forklare det fra maske til maske eller på anden måde (video)? Jeg har faktisk haft to meget øvede og dygtige kvinder til at læse disse diagrammer, de kan heller ikke forstå meningen? er ret trist hvis det ikke lykkes, da jeg er vild glad for denne model :) Håber virkelig på i kan hjælpe :) :)

13.10.2021 - 21:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Brithe. Ingen video på denne, men om du f.eks hekler str. S og har heklet 1. omg, har du 92 st (=stav). Du starter 2. omg med første rad i A.1 (sort stjerne) der det hekles 1 st i hver av de neste 38 st, hekle 2 st i hver av de neste 8 st, hekle 1 st i hver av de neste 38 st, hekle 2 st i hver av de neste 8 st = 108 st. På 3. omgang hekles A.1 over de første 4 st, A.2 over de neste 12 st, hekle A.3 over de neste 3 st, * A.2 over de neste 24 st, A.5 over de neste 3 st *, A.2 over de neste 24 st, A.3 over de neste 3 st, hekle fra *-* 1 gang til, hekle A.2 over de neste 4 st og avslutt med A.4 over de siste 4 st = 32 stgrupper med 1 luftmaske mellom hver. mvh DROPS design

18.10.2021 kl. 09:29

country flag Karin wrote:

Do you have a video for this pattern ? My around breast size is 45 inches. What size do you recomend i use ? My wool is 3 ply South African wool

29.09.2021 - 14:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karin, measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare them to the measurements in chart (= in cm), this is the best way to find out the matching size, read more here. This pattern has been worked with a dk/worsted yarn: DROPS Belle, read more about alternative yarns here. Happy crocheting!

30.09.2021 kl. 09:25

country flag Aase Jacobsen wrote:

Jeg skal til 3. Omg. Hvor jeg skal begynde at tage ud for og bag jeg er nok kørt lidt fast . Jeg mener at der hvor du har taget 16 masker ud i de 8 masker det er til ærmerne.

02.06.2021 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Aase, ja du har taget 8 masker ud til hver skulder. Nu hækler du A.1 over de første 4 st, A.2 over de næste 12, så er du kommet til de 3 midterste masker midt bagpå, dem hækler du ifølge A.3 osv, vi beskriver når du er midt på skulderen og midt bagpå og foran, så prøv at følge 3.omgang maske for maske :)

02.06.2021 kl. 13:27

country flag Aase Jacobsen wrote:

Jeg må desværre give op. Jeg .ener at der er 46 masker til forstykket og jeg skal hækle 4 og 3x12 masker. Hvor er der så.midt på

01.06.2021 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Aase, hvilke størrelse hækler du, hvor langt er du kommet i opskriften, hvilket afsnit, hvor mange masker har du... ?

02.06.2021 kl. 11:36

country flag Aase Jacobsen wrote:

I 3 omgang står der over næste12 stangmasker = 3 gange i bredden det forstår jeg ikke hjælp.

30.04.2021 - 10:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Aase. Du skal da hekle diagram A.2 over de neste 12 stavene (= altså du hekler A.2 3 ganger. mvh DROPS design

03.05.2021 kl. 13:44

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