DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
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Happy Hour

Knitted shawl with lace pattern and garter stitch in stripes. The piece is worked in DROPS Alpaca.

DROPS 186-13

#happyhourshawl

DROPS Design: Pattern no z-823
Yarn group A
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Measurements:
Length at top: approx. 215 cm
Height in the middle: approx. 44 cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150 g colour 100, off white
50 g colour 2917, turquoise,
50 g colour 4050, purple
50 g colour 2921, pink

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM – or the size needed to get 23 stitches and 30 rows of stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height
And 23 stitches and 45 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

STRIPES:
SECTION-1: * 1 ridge with off white, 1 ridge with turquoise *, work from *-*.
SECTION-3: * 1 ridge with purple, 1 ridge with off white *, work from *-*.
SECTION-5: * 1 ridge with pink, 1 ridge with off white *, work from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
A.2 shows the position of A.1 when decreasing on the one side of the piece and increasing on the other side.
A.X is always repeated in the same way in height, but there will be room for 1 more repeat of A.1 in width every time A.X is repeated in height.
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SHAWL:
The piece is worked diagonally from corner to corner in sections with garter stitch and lace pattern.
So that you have enough room for all the stitches, work back and forth with circular needle.

Cast on 3 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and off white. Work 1 RIDGE – see description above. Then work garter stitch and STRIPES – see description above AT THE SAME TIME as you work as follows:

SECTION-1 (garter stitch in stripes off white/turquoise):
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit until there is 1 stitch left on the row, work 2 stitches in the last stitch (= 1 stitch increased).
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit 2, knit twisted the loop before the next stitch on the left needle, knit until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 2 stitches twisted together (= 1 stitch increased and 1 stitch decreased).
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have worked a total of 44 ridges. There are now 46 stitches on the needle. Change to off white and work section-2 as described below.

SECTION-2 (lace pattern in stocking stitch with off white):
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit until there is 1 stitch left on row, work 2 stitches in the last stitch (= 1 stitch increased and 47 stitches on row).
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit 2, knit twisted the loop before the next stitch on the left needle, purl until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 2 stitches twisted together (= 1 stitch increased and 1 stitch decreased).

Then work A.1 AT THE SAME TIME as you continue decreasing in the one side of the piece and increasing in the other – read PATTERN and work as follows:
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit 1, work A.1 until there are 3 stitches left on the row (= 7 repeats of 6 stitches), knit 2, then work 2 stitches in the last stitch (= 1 stitch increased).
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit 2, knit twisted the loop before the next stitch on the left needle, purl until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 2 stitches twisted together (= 1 stitch increased and 1 stitch decreased).
Continue A.1 as shown in A.2, decreasing on the one side of the piece and increasing on the other in the same way as before. When A.1 has been worked a total of 8 times in height (i.e. A.X a total of 4 times in height) there are 71 stitches on the needle. Change to purple and work section-3 as described below.

SECTION-3 (garter stitch in stripes with purple/off white):
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit until there is 1 stitch left on the row, work 2 stitches in the last stitch (= 1 stitch increased and 72 stitches on the needle).
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit 2, knit twisted the loop before the next stitch on the left needle, knit until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 2 stitches twisted together (= 1 stitch increased and 1 stitch decreased).
Repeat rows 1 and 2 in stripes until you have worked 41 ridges. AT THE SAME TIME on the last row from the right side in ridge 41 increase 6 stitches evenly on row (in addition to the usual increase at the end of the row) = 118 stitches on needle. Change to off white and work section-4 as described below.

SECTION-4 (lace pattern in stocking stitch with off white):
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit until there is 1 stitch left on the row, work 2 stitches in the last stitch (= 1 stitch increased and 119 stitches on the needle).
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit 2, knit twisted the loop before the next stitch on the left needle, purl until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 2 stitches twisted together (= 1 stitch increased and 1 stitch decreased).

Then work A.1 in the same way as in section-2 with decrease on the one side of the piece and increase on the other side, in other words work as follows:
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit 1, work A.1 until there are 3 stitches left on the row (= 19 repeats of 6 stitches), knit 2, then work 2 stitches in the last stitch (= 1 stitch increased).
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit 1, knit twisted the loop before the next stitch on the left needle, purl until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 2 stitches twisted together (= 1 stitch increased and 1 stitch decreased).
Continue A.1 in the same way as shown in A.2 (but with more repeats in width) – AT THE SAME TIME, continue to increase on the one side of the piece and decrease on the other side as before. When A.1 has been worked a total of 8 times in height (i.e. A.X a total of 4 times in height) there are 143 stitches on the needle. Change to pink and work section-5 as described below.

SECTION-5 (garter stitch in stripes pink/off white):
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit until there is 1 stitch left on the row, work 2 stitches in the last stitch (= 1 stitch increased and 144 stitches on the needle).
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit 2, knit twisted the loop before the next stitch on the left needle, knit until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 2 stitches twisted together (= 1 stitch increased and 1 stitch decreased).
Repeat rows 1 and 2 in stripes until you have worked 41 ridges. AT THE SAME TIME on the last row from the right side in ridge 41, increase 6 stitches evenly on row (in addition to the usual increase at the end of the row). There are now 190 stitches on the needle. Change to off white and work section-6 as described below.

SECTION-6 (lace pattern in stocking stitch with off white):
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit until there is 1 stitch left on the row, work 2 stitches in the last stitch (= 1 stitch increased and 191 stitches on the needle).
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit 2, knit twisted the loop before the next stitch on the left needle, purl until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 2 stitches twisted together (= 1 stitch increased and 1 stitch decreased).
Continue A.1 in the same way as in section-2 and section-4 (there is now room for 31 repeats in width) - AT THE SAME TIME continue the decrease on the one side of the piece and increase on the other side in the same way as before. When A.1 has been worked a total of 8 times in height (i.e. A.X a total of 4 times in height) there are 215 stitches on the needle. Change to turquoise and work section-7 as described below.

SECTION-7:
Row 1 (right side) with turquoise: Slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit until there is 1 stitch left on the row, work 2 stitches in the last stitch (= 1 stitch increased and 216 stitches on the needle).
Row 2 (wrong side) with turquoise: Knit 2, knit twisted the loop before the next stitch on the left needle, knit until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 2 stitches twisted together (= 1 stitch increased and 1 stitch decreased).
Row 3 (= right side) with off white: Slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit until there is 1 stitch left on the row, work 2 stitches in the last stitch (= 1 stitch increased).
Row 4 (wrong side) with off white: Knit 2, knit twisted the loop before the next stitch on the left needle, knit until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 2 stitches twisted together (= 1 stitch increased and 1 stitch decreased).
Repeat rows 1-4 one more time. Change to turquoise and repeat rows 1-2 two more times (= 1 ridge turquoise, 1 ridge off white, 1 ridge turquoise, 1 ridge off white, 2 ridges turquoise).
Cast off with knit from the right side as follows: Knit 2 stitches, * insert the left needle into the 2 stitches on the right needle from left to right and knit them together, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row. Cut the strand and pull it through the last stitch. Casting off in this way gives an elastic cast-off edge. Fasten all the strands.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Happy Hour

Charlotte, France

Comments / Questions (20)

Ivonne wrote:

Hallo ! Ich möchte dieses Tuch einmal mit der Wolle Alpaca und einmal mit Baby Merino stricken. In den Farben Natur und Lilatönen. Können Sie mir bitte helfen welche Lilatönen bei beiden Wollarten zusammen mit Natur gut harmonieren? VG + Danke.

21.11.2024 - 09:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ivonne, bei der Farbauswahl bitte Ihr DROPS Händler direkt fragen, gerne wird man Ihnen dort die besten passenden Farben - auch per Mail oder Telefon - empfehlen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

21.11.2024 - 16:17

Britta wrote:

Hallo, können Sie bitte noch die Abmessungen angeben, danke.

26.06.2023 - 11:02

Liebe Britta, sicher, die Länge oben ist ca 215 m und die Höhe in der Mitte ca 44 cm. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.06.2023 - 13:18

Mia wrote:

Hi ! Ist es richtig,daß bei Partie 4 Lochmuster - 2. Reihe (Rück-Reihe): 1 Masche rechts, den Querfaden vor der nächsten Masche der linken Nadel rechts verschränkt stricken..." Denn in Partie 2 - Reihe 2, da waren es noch 2 Maschen rechts. Müsste es denn bei Partie 4 - 2.Reihe: 2 Maschen rechts heißen? VG Mia

29.09.2022 - 10:03

Hi ! Meine Frage bezieht sich auf das Diagramm A.2 . Sind die Ab-und Zunahmen mit im Diagramm einberechnet bzw. eingezeichnet? LG Mia

25.09.2022 - 18:01

Liebe Mia, die Ab- und Zunahmen sind nicht in A.2 gezeichnet. Die stricken Sie vor A.2 + nach A.2. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.09.2022 - 09:48

Marta wrote:

Zrobiłam tą chustę, ale wyszła mi bardzo asymetryczna (bok dziergany na początku dużo dłuższy i węższy niż bok dziergany na końcu). Czy da się jakoś temu zaradzić? Naprężenie włóczki zachowałam identyczne na początku jak i na końcu. Pozdrawiam serdecznie

09.02.2021 - 18:39

Witaj Marto, zalecam blokowanie, zobacz video TUTAJ. Pozdrawiam!

09.02.2021 - 19:51

Kasia wrote:

Dzien dobry, doszłam do końca pierwszego AX i nie wiem jak mam postąpić dalej, tzn w którym momencie rozpocząć A.1 w kolejnym rzędzie i czy ma ich za każdym razem być 7 czy może więcej. Bardzo proszę o podpowiedź. Pozdrawiam!

21.01.2021 - 20:37

Witaj Kasiu, zaczynasz kolejny schemat A.1 tak samo jak wcześniej, tzn. masz mniej o 1 o. na początku rzędu, więc będzie 3 oczka prawe, narzut i dalej tak samo jak jest na początku schematu A.x (patrz znów prawy dolny róg). Powtarzać schemat A.X zawsze w taki sam sposób na wysokość, ale za każdym razem gdy powtarzamy schemat A.X na wysokość, jest wystarczająca liczba oczek, aby przerobić 1 dodatkowy motyw A.1 na szerokość. Tzn. tym razem będzie już 8 powtórzeń schematu A.1. Powodzenia!

21.01.2021 - 21:09

Barbara Cribb wrote:

What does knit twisted the loop before the next stitch mean?

27.04.2020 - 02:36

Dear Mrs Cribb, pick up a stitch before the next stitch on left needle and work it into back of loop (= you increased 1 stitch). Happy knitting!

27.04.2020 - 09:48

Miet wrote:

Bij het breien van de ribbelsteek in 2 kleuren (deel 1,3,...) moet je telkens aan de goede kant de eerste steek averecht afhalen. Maar dan haal je toch een steek af in kleur 1 terwijl je verder breit met kleur 2 ? Klopt dit ? Krijg je dan wel mooie strepen ?

30.09.2018 - 17:36

Dag Miet, De steek die je averecht afhaalt brei je op de teruggaande naald gedraaid recht samen met de steek ernaast, waardoor de strepen er mooi uitzien.

30.09.2018 - 20:47

Tanja wrote:

In Partie 3 steht das man nach der 1. Reihe 72 Maschen auf der Nadel hat, somit hat man nach 40 Krausrippen 112 Maschen auf der Nadel. Nun soll man 6 Maschen verteilt zunehmen zusätzlich zu der normalen Zunahme zunehmen. (= 7Maschen)\r\n Das sind nach meiner Rechnung dann 119 Maschen insgesamt, lt. Anleitung sind es 118 Maschen. Ist dies ein Fehler oder ein Denkfehler von mir?

28.04.2018 - 23:30

Liebe Tanja, die 6 Zunahmen werden bei der letzten Hin-Reihe der 41. Krausrippe gestrickt, dh nach 40 Krausrippe stricken Sie die Zunahmen wie zufor und nehmen Sie zusätlich 6 M zu = 71 M + 40 Zunahmen = 111 M + (1 Zunahme wie üblich + 6 Zunahmen) = 118 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.04.2018 - 10:38

Anna wrote: